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Charts Graphs & Other Useful Diagrams


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#51 Lumix

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 04:38 PM

Tap root up according to some, it's out there I wishgif
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#52 sabasi

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 05:16 PM

Iv'e seen that too but being new, I stick to what works for me as I don't have the resources or space to do the experiments I want to do lol I think both ways work, and if it's meant to be, it will grow
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#53 Don krizzle

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 05:53 PM

taproot up= male 90% of the time taproot down= female 90% of the time it will sprout regardless if the taproots showing 80% of the time its all about the streess while its sprouting and my mentor explaind this to me with great detail that im not going into right now but what i will say is the basics.. taproot down and only half way down the hole with a nice air pocket at the bottomm and your almost always going to have females.. ive been doiong everything he has ever taught me and it all works so stick em in however u like but jangles right:)
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#54 Lumix

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 06:30 PM

taproot up= male 90% of the time
taproot down= female 90% of the time

it will sprout regardless if the taproots showing 80% of the time

its all about the streess while its sprouting and my mentor explaind this to me with great detail that im not going into right now but what i will say is the basics.. taproot down and only half way down the hole with a nice air pocket at the bottomm and your almost always going to have females.. ive been doiong everything he has ever taught me and it all works so stick em in however u like but jangles right:)


As a Gardner from childhood, it was just nature to put the tap root facing down.
I would be afraid it would dry out.

Edited by Lumix, 25 August 2009 - 07:22 PM.

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#55 Don krizzle

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 06:38 PM

well thats another good reason for sure esspecialy for a childhood realization:) and yea naturaly the roots go down so it makes the most sence anyway.. my mentors just got over 30yrs experience and has all these lil weird but effective ways of doing things so i thought id share that lil tidbit for gettn fems lol
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#56 Guest_Ventana_*

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 07:11 PM

I think its company propaganda to some degree, but even if the numbers are off the variation in products leaves me not wanting to trust mycorrhizae companies:

Information Desk :: Common Mycorrhizal products tested

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#57 sabasi

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Posted 26 August 2009 - 03:20 AM

I wasn't sure if this goes here but it looked cool!!
Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image
http://www.angelfire...trackadvexp.htm


Edited by jangel, 14 September 2009 - 08:55 AM.

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#58 necros

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 03:13 PM

I found this chart in High Times and verified a great deal of it through research:

http://www.greenpass...83&d=1251040088
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#59 jangel

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 11:40 AM

The improvements of T-5 over T-8, which were not previously possible (i.e. you could have had a HO T-8)

Smaller diameter means 5% more efficiency that T-8
rated for 35*C (100*F)
Lower Mercury content 3mg vs. 15mg per 4' (1.2m) tube
Higher color rendering Index Standarized @ 85+
lower lumen depreciation (because of lower mercury)
Longer life span (because of lower mercury)


I suspect the gas pressure and content is the the key in having efficiency tuned for higher temperatures. Also the lower mercury content makes the bulb function differently... Mercury functions as a vital low pressure gas which allows ignition of the bulb... Without mercury, none of this would be possible (at low pressures). They have gone to great lengths in HIDs (MH and HPS) to eliminate Mercury, and as you can see in the link below (if interested) how they compensate for this lower mercury level. Many HIDs still do have Mercury.



T-5 are not as much of a radical departure, as a refinement of T-8 lamps, the smaller diameter is not the main focus, even though they look very cool!


The T5 Fluorescent Lamp: Coming on Strong

"One result of enclosing a smaller lamp with a relatively high output in a smaller fixture is heat — and lots of it. For that reason, the T5 lamp provides peak light output at 35C (95F) air temperature, whereas the T8 and the T12 lamp provide peak light output at a 25C (77F) ambient air temperature."

And my favorite site about T-5 lights is below:

Introduction | What are T5 Lamps? | T5 Fluorescent Systems | Lighting Answers | NLPIP

This is not my work, but found at this site...

Do your t-5 bulbs get hot? - Orchid Board - Most Complete Orchid Forum on the web !

Wiki floros

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#60 hickerbilly

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Posted 04 November 2009 - 09:36 PM

Wow! Thanks Roseman! Awesome pics and info!
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#61 high-life

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 05:57 PM

Here is a ph nutreint combination chart I grabbed somewhere. it shows soil ph and hydro ph, what mj needs for health and also what nutes are blocked or inaccessable at varieing levels. Quite interesting.






Please i would like to know what the two witamins names are, im referering to the two ones that gets blocked out at a ph 6,8 in soil regadirng to that picture.
ps, i would be glad for any suggestion how i can feed my plants with those missing two witamin in another way.
thanks...
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#62 Zigzagman

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Posted 01 December 2009 - 10:19 AM

Here is a chart for macro/micro nutrients...



The Elements Important to Plants

Macronutrients

Calcium Ca Major component of cell walls, important for root tips and growth.

Deficiency: Poor root development with weak tips, distorted curled leaves with hooked tips.

Excess: causes iron deficiency in sensitive plants.

Magnesium Mg Essential for chlorophyll formation and a cofactor for many enzyme reactions.

Deficiency: Leaf yellowing with brilliant colours.

Excess: causes calcium deficiency.

Nitrogen N Essential for proper leaf and stem growth, protein synthesis.

Deficiency: Reduced growth, pale yellow-green leaves starting with oldest.

Excess: causes potassium deficiency.

Phosphorous P Important for germination and growth of seeds, growth of roots, flower and fruit production.

Deficiency: Reduced growth, small bluish-green leaves becoming bronzy-purple or with scorched brown edges and falling off early, starting with the oldest.

Excess: causes potassium deficiency.

Potassium K Promotes vigourous growth, disease resistance.

Deficiency: Stunted growth with closely spaced leaves. Scorched brown leaf tips and edges, rolled edges starting with oldest.

Excess: causes calcium and magnesium deficiency.

Sulphur S Essential for protein synthesis and chlorophyll formation.

Deficiency: Slow growth with small, rounded brittle leaves.

Micronutrients - trace requirements only

Boron B Required for sugar transport, calcium metabolism, water regulation and reproductive functions. No known function in animals.

Deficiency: Scorched, mottled discoloured and curled leaves, starting with most recent. Distorted and dead growing points, hollow stems, deformed fruit. Hard to achieve experimentally as requirements are tiny.

Excess: scorched leaf edges (similar to potassium/magnesium deficiency).

Chlorine Cl Used to be thought to be metabolically irrelevant, but may affect carbohydrate metabolism and photosynthesis.

Deficiency: stubby roots and wilting.

Excess: scorched leaf edges (similar to potassium/magnesium deficiency).

Copper Cu Required for protein synthesis and reproductive functions.

Deficiency: leaves become bluish-green, wither or remain folded. Yellow-edged tips of young leaves. Abnormal rosette formation at growing points.

Excess: causes iron deficiency.

Iron Fe Required for chlorophyll formation and production of oxygen.

Deficiency: Yellow leaves with green leaf veins, starting with most recent. May be caused by excess calcium.

Excess: scorched leaf edges (similar to potassium/magnesium deficiency)

Manganese Mn Essential component of many enzymes and important for Chlorophyll formation.

Deficiency: Yellow leaves with green veins, white or grey flecks, starting with oldest.

Excess: causes iron deficiency and similar symptoms to manganese deficiency.

Molybdenum Mo Essential for nitrogenase (nitrogen fixing) enzymes and formation of root nodules in beans and peas.

Deficiency: yellow mottling and dead spots on the leaves, distorted or dead growing points.

Zinc Zn required for synthesis of proteins and affects size and maturity

Deficiency: Yellowing between leaf veins with purple/dead spots on the older leaves. Leaves small, deformed and closely spaced. Defective fruiting.

Excess: causes iron deficiency.
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#63 jangel

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Posted 01 December 2009 - 11:14 AM

Awesome post Zig, thanks.
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#64 high-life

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 12:43 PM

[quote name='Zigzagman']Here is a chart for macro/micro nutrients...



"The Elements Important to Plants"...

Woow gota say big thanks for all that great info ziggy.
also, its a high witin when people can find harmony together
to help each other AND :passit:some peace togther. One Love
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#65 wheels123

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 12:14 AM

Wow thank you for all the good diagrams and stuff ! I need to learn and here is the place to find it !
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#66 Lucky_Cat

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 04:56 AM

9167.. to change the air every 3 minutes you need a fan of at least 160m3.. double it if using a carbon filter.. there is a brit site that has growroom tools on it.. can i post link here? tis a very handy tool

http://www.uk420.com...wroomtools2.php

Edited by jangel, 08 February 2010 - 04:38 PM.

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#67 BrokenSpoke

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 09:01 AM

Conversion Chart


For Bubble Ponics




2.5ml of fertlizer every Liter of water


1 gallon = 3.785411 Liters


3 gallon = 11.356233 Liters


5 gallons = 18.927055 Liters




Conversion to Mililiters


1 Gallon


3.785411lt x 2.5ml = 9.463527ml


9.463527ml / 3 fertlizers = 3.154509ml


Total = 1 scoop 2.5ml of fertlizer a peice


1Grow, 1Bloom, 1Bone Meal




3 Gallon


11.356233lt x 2.5ml = 28.390583ml


28.390583ml / 3 fertlizers = 9.463528ml


Total = 3 scoops 2.5ml of fertlizer a peice


3Grow, 3Bloom, 3Bone Meal




5 Gallon


18.927055lt x 2.5ml = 47.317637ml


47.317637ml / 3 fertlizers = 15.772546ml


Total = 5 scoops 2.5ml of fertlizer a peice


5Grow, 5Bloom, 5Bone Meal






keep in mind that this chart is at full strength. if you don't have a militer cup don't worry( I got you covered...2.5ml is .5 teaspoon). as fas as a feeding schedule you will have to make up your own specific one as to fit the needs of what you are tryin to grow....
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#68 robotdinosaur

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Posted 23 January 2010 - 05:31 PM

Great Humboldt nutrients chart.... Drain-To-Waste schedule of Master A & B from Humboldt Nutrients

Edited by jangel, 12 February 2010 - 09:58 AM.

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#69 YourMedMJ

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 12:47 PM

9894 Here's the illustration that makes me think it's a "late" female calyx. [ATTACH]44912[/ATTACH]

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#70 BrokenSpoke

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Posted 23 February 2010 - 08:35 PM

I have just recived some biobizz products, and i made a chart so i thought i would post it for all to see and maybe it could come in handy to someone....



Weekly Feeding Chart




3 gallon = 11lt



  • Week 1
Bio-Heaven 2ml / L = 22ml


Root Juice 4ml / L = 44ml
  • Week 2
Bio-Heaven 2ml / L = 22ml


Bio-Grow 2ml / L = 22ml
  • Week 3
Bio-Heaven 2ml / L = 22ml
Bio-Grow 2 ml / L = 22ml
Alg-A-Mic 1ml/ L = 11ml
Fish-Mix 1ml/ L = 11ml


Top-Max 1 ml/ L = 11ml
  • Week 4
Bio-Heaven 2ml/ L = 22ml
Bio-Grow 2ml/L = 22ml
Alg-A-Mic 2ml/L =22 ml
Fish-Mix 2ml/L =22ml


Top-Max 1ml/L = 11ml
  • Week 5
Bio-Heaven 3ml/L = 33ml
Bio-Grow 3mlL = 33ml
Alg-A-Mic 2ml/L = 22ml
Fish-Mix 2ml/L = 22ml


Top-Max 1ml/L = 11ml
  • Week 6
Bio-Heaven 4ml/L = 44ml
Bio-Grow 3 ml/L = 33ml
Alg-A-Mic 3ml/L = 33ml
Fish-Mix 3ml/L = 33ml


Top-Max 1ml/L = 11ml
  • Week 7
Bio-Heaven 4ml/L = 44ml
Bio-Grow 4ml/L = 44ml
Alg-A-Mic 3ml/L = 33ml
Fish-Mix 3ml/L = 33ml


Top-Max 1ml/L = 11ml
  • Week 8
Bio-Heaven 5ml/L = 55ml
Bio-Grow 4ml/L = 44ml
Alg-A-Mic 4ml/L = 44ml
Fish-Mix 4ml/L = 44ml
Top-Max 4 ml/L = 44ml




  • Week 9
Bio-Heaven 5ml/L = 55ml
Bio-Grow 4ml/L = 44ml
Alg-A-Mic 4ml/L = 44ml
Fish-Mix 4ml/L = 44ml


Top-Max 4ml/L = 44ml
  • Week 10
Bio-Heaven 5ml/L = 55ml
Bio-Grow 4ml/L = 44ml
Alg-A-Mic 4ml/L = 44ml
Fish-Mix 4ml/L = 44ml


Top-Max 4ml/L = 44ml
  • Week 11
Bio-Heaven 5ml/L = 55ml
Bio-Grow 4ml/L = 44ml
Alg-A-Mic 4ml/L = 44ml
Fish-Mix 4ml/L = 44ml


Top-Max 4ml/L = 44ml
  • Week 12
Bio-Heaven 5ml/L = 55ml
Bio-Grow 4ml/L = 44ml
Alg-A-Mic 4ml/L = 44ml
Fish-Mix 4ml/L = 44ml


Top-Max 4ml/L = 44ml
  • Week 13
Bio-Heaven 5ml/L = 55ml
Bio-Grow 4ml/L = 44ml
Alg-A-Mic 4ml/L = 44ml
Fish-Mix 4ml/L = 44ml


Top-Max 4ml/L = 44ml
  • Week 14
Bio-Heaven 5ml/L = 55ml
Bio-Grow 4ml/L = 44ml
Alg-A-Mic 4ml/L = 44ml
Fish-Mix 4ml/L = 44ml


Top-Max 4ml/L = 44ml
  • Week 15
Flush
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#71 Guest_qwertytypo_*

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 08:10 PM

these charts helped bunches, I am a newbie and am still learning about lumens and light distances, so I just wanted to drop a line and say thanks.



These charts help you understand the effective light distances for the size bulb you have, thereby giving you a better idea of how large you can grow your plants with the size bulbs you use. The last chart helps you understand the difference between different types of lighting



#72 jangel

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 07:44 AM

Here is a link to all sorts of bugs that can come into your house and garden.

What is that bug?
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#73 khoaken

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 12:40 PM

Has my power to give thanks been revoked?
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#74 jangel

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 12:45 PM

No Hoak, it is a damn glitch different members are having fun with. Nothing to do with any member...just vbulletin doing it's morphing thing....try refreshing the page, sweetie, sometimes that brings it back.
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#75 Sprocket

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Posted 29 May 2010 - 03:28 AM

hope these help a bit... shakehands.gif

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted ImagePosted Image
Posted Image
Posted ImagePosted Image
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