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The Purps


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#51 jangel

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Posted 11 December 2008 - 06:58 PM

Hi GetAhead. How far into flower are these babies? I am sorry I don't have time to go back and read it all. If this is just the odd leaf, don't worry about it, it is quite natural for the plant to use up leaves. You are using FF nutes, and so do I. It almost looks like nute burn. I very seldom use it full strength, unless I have just replanted and want to give them a good surge for a quick start. I will check back to see if you posted how long into flower they are. Also, the closer to harvest the buds get, the worse the leaves SHOULD look as you want the plant to use up all the nitrogen in the leaves and the buds, to give you a smoother sweeter smoke. my leaves kind of look like scott06 once described as like old salmon skin, with splotches and worn out looking. That is perfectly normal. I love your pictures. They are simply stunning. I am looking foreward to your frosty buds too. You are talented, jeez, almost called ya dear again, but I know you don't like it! Peace


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#52 ileso

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Posted 11 December 2008 - 07:16 PM

keep the photos comin, we are real porn hogs here heheheh good work, what you described reminds me of mine they also yellow underneath the canopy.. it normal i think

#53 GetAhead

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Posted 11 December 2008 - 09:10 PM

Thanks again, folks. The last pictures posted below the flowering at Day 41: 28 days veg; 13 days flower. I am feeling better since the last two posts. They are looking dynamite today and there are way more flowers on each plant than I could begin to count with any accuracy (hundreds though, methinks). I am doing the LST method, lest these would be about 4 feet tall by now, I'm guessing. Anyway, there are scores of little buds forming all along the bent stems, they are now evening out growing in toward the light, and the whole grow area beneath the light is a flat mass of stems with buds. Before long, I may not be to move the plants around as I've been as branches are about to grow amongst each other and the likelihood that my fear of disturbing trichomes would also grow, based on my recent readings.. After this last go around, I think that I will let these grow mostly straight up from here on out as they are getting nicely bushy. Plus, with my light size, I have more coverage going up a bit now instead of further "out". I am thinking of skipping the FoxFarm this next watering or maybe go half strength one time and see how it goes. I have been feeding with every other watering (feeding once about every six days). The weed may be a bit touchier than my experience has been with other flowers using FF. These plants are exceeding my expectations by so much that a nute burn or lock at this point would be a real disappointment. :)

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#54 jangel

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 09:00 AM

I see in the first picture that the leaves look lighter in some areas. Is that the affect of the lights or do the leaves look like that? If the lights then never mind, they are fine. If the plants, then they look possibly short of nitrogen. I truely am trying to help. I want this to work well for you almost as much as you do !

#55 GetAhead

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 05:14 PM

It is definitely the former, JAngel. As I look at the picture of the overall scene, the laeves look MUCH more yellow than is actually the case. The vast majority look like the more color-correct pictures of leaves surrounding the early flowers. This weekend, I am going to go out just before daylight and carry my four ladies around the house to a safe spot where they can get a breath of fresh air and where I can look at the plants in a natural light. It will likely be the last chance for me to ever move these. I have a nice cart for moving soil bags but when these get any bigger, the damage would be too big a risk.

#56 GetAhead

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 08:22 PM

Here are a couple of pics from tonight to show proper color balance. I turned off the grow lights and used my flash equipment. The one picture is of a minor limb that might not have seen the "light of day" without using the weighting method. The picture with the white circle shows a couple of the few leaves with yellow. Some slightly curly tips can be seen in others, but they are looking better than two days ago. Question. At what point do folks start using molasses in the water and what kind?

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#57 IceIceBaBy

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 08:33 PM

GAH, with my experiences i tend to normally start using a carbo loader when the girls get into their full flower mode...maybe 3-4 weeks into flowering...and use it all the way up until you take them down. I use Botanicare's "SWEET" but there are many others out there. Ice

#58 Tokecrazy

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 09:32 PM

Alot of poeple use molasses from veg all the way through to harvest.I use sweet also like iceicebaby.Molasses in soil only not good for hydro.Sweet you can use in soil or hydro.Nice looking grow getahead.about 5 more weeks it looks like. Peace

#59 GetAhead

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Posted 13 December 2008 - 03:00 AM

Alot of poeple use molasses from veg all the way through to harvest.I use sweet also like iceicebaby.Molasses in soil only not good for hydro.Sweet you can use in soil or hydro.Nice looking grow getahead.about 5 more weeks it looks like. Peace


I'd settle for five more weeks. I was expecting seven. :)

#60 Hatch

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Posted 13 December 2008 - 06:36 AM

Great Thread!!~~~You Have Been Doing A Good Job With Your Grow!!,,,& Your Plant's Are Reeking The Reward's!!!~~~Best Of Luck!! `~`Later`~`Hatch`~`

#61 jangel

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Posted 13 December 2008 - 08:21 AM

Getahead, I use blackstrap molasses. It is cheap, and I think it adds a fine taste to the buds. I swear, when you smoke it, it actually tastes sweet. I have never had pot like this. It is so fine, that first toke, you will be so happy. Kinda lingers on your tastbuds too. 1 to 2 tbls. per gallon of water, even if you are feeding them. Add it to the solution, it has trace elements as well as carbs in molasses. If you watch your trichomes, once they start clouding up, stop all other food but the molasses, and just use that and water until they turn some to amber. It can take from 1 to 3 weeks for it to finish properly and by then all the excess food should be out of the soil and the plant will burn up the extra nitrogen. I have some I am harvesting tonight so I will show you how sad they look when ready. You want them to look like this. The perfection of it all! Peace

#62 Guest_Brussels_*

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Posted 13 December 2008 - 10:13 AM

Getahead...some brands of molasses have differing levels of potassium, check the ingredient list on the back of the bottle, and buy the one with the highest mg. In soil grows, I've always use low molasses solutions all through flowering. (1Tbs/gal) Molasses is also a wonderful soil activator, allowing micro nutrients to be more easily utilized by any plant. When I feel there are around 4 weeks left in flowering, I up the anti on the molasses to 2Tbs/gal, and the last two weeks 3Tbs/gal. At this point, you can almost watch your buds swell, and like Jangle said, your final harvest will be soooo sweet and mellow tasting. Not to worry about 'late in the life cycle' leaf yellowing: she knows she's dying unfulfilled. No pollination -- and still she makes new pistils in an effort to propagate. This is the stage where those final heavy hits of molasses pay off, expanding existing flower sites, and pushing for new ones. You grow looks wonderful, with healthy leaf structure. Whenever I'm in doubt with a problem that might pop up, I flush, and back off the nutrition a bit. Congrats on a beautiful grow/thread...B

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#63 ileso

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Posted 13 December 2008 - 11:30 AM

brussels, what wonderful head s

#64 GetAhead

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Posted 13 December 2008 - 11:33 AM

Thanks. I ordered 16 oz. bottles of blackstrap last night. Some thing called "Wholesomes Sweetners - Organic Molasses, 16 oz liquid". My mother used to push molasses on us when we were kids to the point that I got sick of it and had mostly pushed it from my mind. Maybe I'll even try a spoonful or three myself after reading up on the stuff. I appreciate the specifics in application.


Getahead, I use blackstrap molasses. It is cheap, and I think it adds a fine taste to the buds. I swear, when you smoke it, it actually tastes sweet. I have never had pot like this. It is so fine, that first toke, you will be so happy. Kinda lingers on your tastbuds too.

1 to 2 tbls. per gallon of water, even if you are feeding them. Add it to the solution, it has trace elements as well as carbs in molasses. If you watch your trichomes, once they start clouding up, stop all other food but the molasses, and just use that and water until they turn some to amber. It can take from 1 to 3 weeks for it to finish properly and by then all the excess food should be out of the soil and the plant will burn up the extra nitrogen. I have some I am harvesting tonight so I will show you how sad they look when ready. You want them to look like this.


The perfection of it all!

Peace



#65 GetAhead

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Posted 13 December 2008 - 11:36 AM

Talk about beautiful grows. Those look mouth watering. My clones are of gthe varoety The Purps and I am hoping to get coloration like that from mine too. Look like a frosty old grape popcicle that was rolled in cookie crumbs!

I ordered some molasses and think I'll jump right in there with it after it arrives. The talk of bud swelling has me excited. Ha!

Getahead...some brands of molasses have differing levels of potassium, check the ingredient list on the back of the bottle, and buy the one with the highest mg.
In soil grows, I've always use low molasses solutions all through flowering. (1Tbs/gal) Molasses is also a wonderful soil activator, allowing micro nutrients to be more easily utilized by any plant. When I feel there are around 4 weeks left in flowering, I up the anti on the molasses to 2Tbs/gal, and the last two weeks 3Tbs/gal. At this point, you can almost watch your buds swell, and like Jangle said, your final harvest will be soooo sweet and mellow tasting.
Not to worry about 'late in the life cycle' leaf yellowing: she knows she's dying unfulfilled. No pollination -- and still she makes new pistils in an effort to propagate. This is the stage where those final heavy hits of molasses pay off, expanding existing flower sites, and pushing for new ones.
You grow looks wonderful, with healthy leaf structure. Whenever I'm in doubt with a problem that might pop up, I flush, and back off the nutrition a bit. Congrats on a beautiful grow/thread...B



#66 GetAhead

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Posted 13 December 2008 - 02:10 PM

I forgot to mention that while I was tying up several branches, I snapped one such that it hung down and exposed about half the surface of the inner stem. I don't know how folks fix these accidents, here, but the old electrical tape method has fallen into disfavor with me with respect to tomatoes. Even though it usually works, I've had several experiences where moisture still gets under the tape where it's dark and warm and bacteria and fungus can grow, etc., etc. What I do is this. YMMV. I take a strap of the stretchy plastic plant tie material and carefully pull the branch up toward its original position with the "wound opening", if any, firmly closed. Then tie it off to the main stalk or a stake. Now, get a bottle of the super quick drying superglue. Put thick drops on the crotch to cover the seam, speading a solid coating all the way around the stalk.

I like this method because the glue dries almost instantly and seals the wound, watertight, and PRONTO. Plus, you can go back to watering and even moving the plant about without much worry. Provided that one lifts the branch and supports it firmly in its original spot, thereby "pre-sealing" the wound, the superglue will have no effect whatever on the plant. At least with tomates it doesn't. I did it with the one I snapped last night and it looks good as new today.

#67 ileso

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Posted 13 December 2008 - 02:48 PM

wow you live and you learn the day you stop learning your probably dead anyway so it dont matter thanks for that getahead

#68 GetAhead

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Posted 16 December 2008 - 06:24 PM

I FINALLY dug out the old Kelway meter, which I had trouble finding. At their prices, you don't just go out and grab another. Anyway, I wish I'd found it sooner. My four bags tested 6.0; 6.0; 6.2; 6.2. Not the end of the world, but far from optimal. Other than dolomitic lime, or using a chemical fertilizer, are there any good recommendation for adjusting the pH in containers (2.5 gal bags)? The lime takes awhile.

#69 freetolive

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Posted 16 December 2008 - 06:28 PM

You are within limits. Ideal is 6.8 (I think). what is your water, if its around 7. you should be OK. Your nutes are probably pushing it down. would be my guess.

Peace.

I FINALLY dug out the old Kelway meter, which I had trouble finding. At their prices, you don't just go out and grab another. Anyway, I wish I'd found it sooner. My four bags tested 6.0; 6.0; 6.2; 6.2. Not the end of the world, but far from optimal. Other than dolomitic lime, or using a chemical fertilizer, are there any good recommendation for adjusting the pH in containers (2.5 gal bags)? The lime takes awhile.



#70 GetAhead

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Posted 16 December 2008 - 06:33 PM

You are within limits. Ideal is 6.8 (I think). what is your water, if its around 7. you should be OK. Your nutes are probably pushing it down. would be my guess.

Peace.


Thanks. I recall my grandmother using baking soda, but I do not recall how much she used. :Where Dreams are:

#71 jangel

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Posted 16 December 2008 - 06:42 PM

How did you check your soil ph levels? I know, you know how to do it...never mind. One thing with anything on a pot plant, I would think about removing it after it heals, unless what you mean is it stretches without limit, as pot does not usually get wet from rain if it is grown inside I have had good luck electrical tape. And I take it off after it heals, works fine for me. Here is a pic of one of my sad flowering plants. She is eating up her nitrogen very nicely, and here are some buds from her. This is Kish or shiskaberry....Hope ya like them, it is my very fav so far.

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#72 GetAhead

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Posted 16 December 2008 - 06:54 PM

I can answer the first question. I test it with a Kelway HB-2. Not sure what you mean by the second sentence.....

As far as tape, I am glad you've had no issues. I have in the past. The super glue tends to flake off as the plant grows. It doesn't take long for the petiole to heal near the stalk, beneath the glue, after it is sealed from harm by the glue. Plus, if a person is at all ham-handed, the glue trick can be much safer to the further integrity of that stem, and other surrounding stems! :Where Dreams are:

Them be nice looking buds. Keeping my fingers crossed that mine will approach those.



How did you check your soil ph levels?

I know, you know how to do it...never mind.

One thing with anything on a pot plant, I would think about removing it after it heals, unless what you mean is it stretches without limit, as pot does not usually get wet from rain if it is grown inside I have had good luck electrical tape. And I take it off after it heals, works fine for me.

Here is a pic of one of my sad flowering plants. She is eating up her nitrogen very nicely, and here are some buds from her. This is Kish or shiskaberry....Hope ya like them, it is my very fav so far.



#73 freetolive

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Posted 16 December 2008 - 07:04 PM

This is a recent conversation on ph...raising/lowering.


http://www.greenpass...758/index2.html


Peace.

#74 GetAhead

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Posted 16 December 2008 - 07:33 PM

Yep, I'm thinking of easing these four plants through and not doing much unless things change further. I recall that when I made this soil mix (soil, peat, perlite, bonemeal, etc.,, etc.), I did not test for pH and added no lime. I'll do differently next time. :Where Dreams are:


This is a recent conversation on ph...raising/lowering.


http://www.greenpass...758/index2.html


Peace.



#75 jangel

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Posted 17 December 2008 - 07:20 AM

How did you check your soil ph levels?

I know, you know how to do it...never mind.


What I meant by that was that you should not put the probe in the soil to test it as you will not get an accurate reading. I beleived with you being such a good gardener you would know how to use the probe so did not want to state something you already know.

The best way to check the ph of your soil is to water well, and remove it, then save the very last bit of runnoff water and test that. It gives you a more accurate picture of what your soil ph is.

Peace




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