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Spider Mites!!


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#26 ileso

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Posted 21 December 2008 - 04:21 AM

i now this the hard way, i was wondering why my ladies looked fried..
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#27 cuckoo_magic

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Posted 21 December 2008 - 07:37 AM

the best solution to the little buggers is neem oil or oil of an orange the latter is amazeing it cleans everything and pests hate it fhd do a brilliant one called "da orange stuff" if u can get it try it
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#28 Pappy

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Posted 21 December 2008 - 09:30 AM

Keep the dehumidifier on when spraying and don't spray oils especially neem with HID lights on, it will fry the plants. Keep lights off for at least 8 hrs. after spraying but keep room warm and dehumidified.


OK, that explains it. I fried some small leaves and bracts, and didn't know why. Must remember that. Thanks, danksterz101.

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#29 Mogie

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Posted 21 December 2008 - 03:24 PM

well what about us guys who have a humid climate? Spraying something without a fungicide in it will most definitely give growers in my area mold after the 6th week of flowering.


SM-90 will knock out the mold too.
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#30 jonnyappleweed420

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Posted 21 December 2008 - 05:05 PM

I used a mixture of 91% isopropyl alcohol and water(4oz to 28oz of water)and it killed everything,including plant.It was 3-4wks from harvest.I noticed it kill mites and resinated the mite webs making for a decent smoke,I watered cured for 4 days and it strengthened the buzz quite a bit. Peace
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#31 Guest_bud_boy_*

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Posted 07 January 2009 - 07:37 AM

I have found that neem oil is the best remedy for spider mites, because if you get pure neem oil and mix it yourself, you can make sure it is strong enough (I believe it's 1 tsp per quart) at the right strength neem oil is also an ovicide. Save yourself the time and use neem oil, otherwise you are spraying everyday, every other day or every third day... with neem, you spray maybe twice and if a couple of the eggs survive you're only going to have to spray twice again 30 days later. Just be sure to watch out for the signs (little yellow bite marks on leaves). You don't have to leave the lights off for 8 hours either, just leave the lights off for 2 hours and make sure you have all your fans turned up so that the plants are dry before you turn the lights back on. Good luck!

#32 Liberty

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Posted 07 January 2009 - 07:55 AM

the best solution to the little buggers is

neem oil

or

oil of an orange

the latter is amazeing it cleans everything and pests hate it
fhd do a brilliant one called "da orange stuff"
if u can get it try it


How close to harvest can you use this(neem oil)? I have a week to go ,,,

Would a sulpher pot help here?

I have tiny brown bugs under the leaves ...where did they come from? I have a very closed system, except to the bugs..haha

Thanks
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#33 jangel

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Posted 07 January 2009 - 08:04 AM

Have you seen this earlier in the grow? Have you brought anything into the room? Soil, new plants, anything? Do you have screen on your cool air intake ? They can even come in on your clothes or shoes. Even on pots you think are clean, brought in, with a preggers bug and ya got em! Do you have houseplants with these bugs ? Are you in a warm climate that has them outside? It is wise to find out how they got in so you can prevent them in the future. Can you post a pic? How big are they? So close to harvest I would not do much. If they are spider mites you can also just spray the leaves with water and a small amount of insecticidol soap or even a few drops of dish soap, but not antibacterial dish soap. BUT do not wet your buds as you are risking mold.
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#34 Liberty

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Posted 07 January 2009 - 09:53 AM

Hello Jangel & thanks for answering As far as your questions yes to about everything except it's a little cool now for outside bugs although it gets above freezing for a day or two at a time so who knows... no to a filter that small Actually I'm not too stressed about them. Earlier, say 4 - 5 weeks ago I neemed em once & used a sulpher spray once. Not really too big a problem just that I noticed them the other day & want rid of them.........the faux pax lady bugs are enough. I could try a pic if the camera will go that small. Have you used a sulpher pot?
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#35 jangel

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Posted 07 January 2009 - 12:00 PM

No, but I have read so close to harvest it will give you a nasty taste on your buds. That is sulpher will. Many bugs can go dormant in the cold, then once inside, reactivate. That is how they live from season to season. If you have had them for a while, they probably came in before the cold hit. I know even pots that are kept outside and then brought in, can harbor them. I usually wash everything before coming into the grow room. I use Scrubbing Bubbles, shower and tub cleaner. It has bleach in it though so do be careful. Just spray the tops of the pots in the tub, leave them,the foam slides down the pots, then rinse very very well after to sterilize them and get rid of nasties. You can even rinse them after with vinegar to nuetrilize it. Even soil from a store can still harbor pests. Before starting your next grow really go over everything and sterilize it to prevent this from happening again. even the soil. everything. and then possibly leave it empty for a bit if you can, that way everything dies.
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#36 Mogie

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Posted 07 January 2009 - 02:55 PM

You can use SM-90 up until 2 weeks before harvest no problem.
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#37 MysticGypsy

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 08:47 AM

I was just wondering how your insect problem panned out. I had mites also. I went into my attic and jar'd about 40 lady bugs that seek refuge in my home. They ate up the mites in about 3 days and the plants turned out beautifully....
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#38 jangel

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 12:40 PM

Great idea Mystic. And you can order them online or many nurseries have them all the time. One thing though, when all the bugs are gone, they will die as there is nothing for them to eat.
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#39 ileso

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 12:52 PM

just a note, i am a bit late to the thread, i have just finished the 4000 posts overdue from the time i was in thailand... i had a serious mite problem with my last grow. and as it was still winter, near harvest when they started to get really bad, ( i had tried everything in the earlier stage and once in flower cut the chems and switched to neem, with mixed results) anyway the infestation grew to uncontrollable so what i did was put them outside in the cold for the last 3 weeks. i may have suffered a bit insofar as final weight was concerned but i did solve the mite problem.. cold AND neem gets them in the end....
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#40 Guest_bud_boy_*

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Posted 02 April 2009 - 09:46 PM

I have had great success in the past with neem, but now I am seeing that the buggers are becoming resistant to even that!!!
Anyway, found this recipe and may try it:

1/4 cup Baking Soda
1/2 cup Apple Cider vinegar
1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice
2 drops dish detergent
1/4 Teaspoon Epsom Salts

Take a cup of very hot water and dissolve the epsom salts, take rest of ingredients and place in a clean 2 liter bottle and let work out. Add epsom solution. Add water to fill to 48ozs(3/4 full).Shake well.

TO USE: Cover soil/medium with plastic,with lights off mist plant all over,especialy under leaves,
Wait 20 mins,then spritz off with clean fresh water shaking as much water off plant as you can.
The fresh water spritz rinse will remove the solution along with the desolved remains of the mites and their eggs.

According to the posting it is a good "Mite Eradicator"

#41 chunk

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Posted 02 April 2009 - 09:53 PM

anybody ever hear of predator mites, hear they work great? Try google SPIDER MITE

Edited by chunk, 02 April 2009 - 10:04 PM.

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#42 Guest_bud_boy_*

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 03:50 AM

predator mites work if you are lucky, but most posts here say that the predator mites never eat all of the spider mites especially if your infestation is bad, + many of the insecticide and/or ovicide sprays including neem will kill the predator mites.

#43 Stoned Ranger

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Posted 09 April 2009 - 09:53 PM

There's a strain of mites that only prey on spider mites. After the consume the spider mites they die of starvation.
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#44 Guest_bud_boy_*

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Posted 10 April 2009 - 05:57 AM

"There's a strain of mites that only prey on spider mites. After the consume the spider mites they die of starvation." Yeah, I know -- good luck if you try them -- once you are infested with the heinous borg, two-spotted spider mite you are doomed if you try to wait for the other mites to eat them + if you spray neem or pyrethium or any other insecticide the predator mites will die too. You will waste your money on predator mites if you are infested with spider mites; if you don't believe me, then go for it. My new spray mix is: neem, cedar and cinnamon oils, every 2 to 3 days. As soon as I can't smell the oils on the leaves, I spray again. Good to spray with 50/50 rubbing alcohol in between to wash off the oils so there is no buildup -- plants are thriving, too many other products burn the plants!!! Good luck to any and all with these mf bugs -- just keep spraying until you kill every single one and their stupid eggs. Remember to turn the lights off!

#45 Guest_natural lady_*

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 11:55 AM

help..I have webs and just found green bug very visible to the eye..seems to be on one variety..not sure..maybe I should give them the death march..what do you guys think?

#46 CAMSTER626

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 12:31 PM

If it aint part of my plant it get's neem'd...If you got webs then you got these...wipe em out.


Posted Image
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#47 Guest_bud_boy_*

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 04:42 PM

I have a product called Azatrol and was just looking at the application info and noticed there is a root application. It's main ingredient is the same as neem, but yet they claim there is no neem in the product. It, like neem it is organic.
I'm giving it a try since I am in late flower and don't want to keep spraying.
I will post my results here.

My experience with mites is that they are extemely resilient. The ones I have are immune to pyrethrin foggers. The last time I set off a doctor doom, following all directions, sealing the room, turning the fans off, etc. not one mite died.
I have success with 50/50 rubbing alcohol and water mixture (this evaporates quickly, so it doesn't harm the plants at all providing you turn the lights off) and a mixture of neem, cedar oil and cinnimite. I have also read that there is an australian product called eco oil which is canola oil, with teatree and eucalyptus. SM90, though great for powdery mildew does absolutely nothing for these mites. People who keep posting that it works must be dealing with a wimpy breed of mite!

Edited by bud_boy, 18 June 2009 - 04:43 PM.
typo


#48 jangel

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Posted 19 June 2009 - 09:57 AM

Justplainbill has had success with Listerene and water sprayed on the plants. It, like alchol evaporates off and leaves no residue. Peace
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#49 medicinecloset

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 11:14 PM

Justplainbill has had success with Listerene and water sprayed on the plants. It, like alchol evaporates off and leaves no residue.

Peace

Doesn't the Alchohol in Listerine act as a solvent if sprayed over resin glands? They aren't water soluble but they sure are achohol soluble?????????? Dunno maybe you aren't supposed to spray it on a full flowering plant??????? Just wondering.

#50 medicinecloset

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 11:27 PM

Couple suggestions for ANY Mite. Ladybugs= the dam death sentence for em. Bye Bye! Also Raise your Humidity to about 70% for a day or two and circulate the air. It wont kill every one of them but it will implode a ton of them little buggers where maybe you can get ahold of them with a neem or pyrethin spray. Spider Mites breed in low humidity environments and once they get colonized it's the begining of the end my friends. Keep the area VERY clean and maintain more medium humidity levels with adequate ventilation and you'll never see one. One more tip, I change my clothes and wash my hands before entering my room if I have been outside. That is a good way to introduce hitchiking pests into your lovely smorgasboard(Garden)




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