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IammuA's Lair & Lab


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#1 IammuA

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Posted 29 April 2016 - 05:47 AM

Welcome to my Lair & Lab thread!  smhug.gif
  :passit:
Settle in for the ride, eh? 
 
 
I am a Grower who grows for personal medical treatment of myself [have MS, epilepsy, osteo-arthritis, macular degeneration, range of other stuff] and of the schizophrenic guy I am primary caregiver for.
 
He is in his 60's and has had his illness 40 some years, is on the maximum level of medication possible.
With all this he is still subject to 300+ days a year of screaming psychotic episodes...since refining his treatment and adding cannabis we have been able to bring the bad days to 60 or less a year....just about flipped the %s on their head :D: hehehe
 
More on this @some other time.
 
I Smoke the plant...make cannabutter from the plant. I use the roots for topicals. I used stem and leaf for topicals and edibles. I collect pollen. I make seeds. I dabble in breeding also. :D: hhehehe
 
 
Most of my growing experience has been indoors.
I have grown hydro dwc, coir, soil, mixed mediums.
I have used professional growing nutes, cannabis nutes, mixed my own nutes and now use Powerfeed and Seasol.
I currently grow in 9ltr buckets of coir amended with dolomite lime, epsom salts and fed Powerfeed with Seasol when needed. Pretty simple.
 
Indoors, my ubercabinet is actually 2 cabinets bolted together in true Frankenstein fashion.  :laughleaf:
 
The growspace is approximately 120cm X 145cm area [approx. 4'X5'].
I have 2 X 400W hps with good old magnetic ballasts. The lamps are in an air cooled enclosed hood.
 
I have 'The Nute Barrel' a 190Ltr plastic olive barrel in which I mix water and Powerfeed....adding Seasol when flowering :D: hehehe This is all I usually use to feed my plants.
 
I have been lax the last few years and not been measuring ph or ec, just adjusting it by eye, adding more water when it smells too acidic, more water when it gets low and more Powerfeed when it gets diluted.
 
I will begin noting how much I use and how I mix to get a baseline.
 
 
 
So...a summary of where I am @the moment :D: hehehe
 
I have recently chopped some Calli-O strain plants. Grown OUTSIDE in the ground and flowered a full 9 weeks before the harvest window opened ...and grown for another 7-10 days during the harvest window.
 
On one plant I found mold during my 3X daily checks for mold.
I immediately panicked, jumped up and down, shifted foot to foot, took a few deep breaths and set about chopping it, changing big nugs on a plant into little nugs ina big pile, then into a tub of water and H2O2 to give them a rinse to kill and wash away the mold. 
 
I added some boiled water before adding the H2O2 to bring temp up....too cool and trichs will break off.
 
I only found mold in one nug on one branch but the whole plant was chopped and treated. The worst of the moldy bud was thrown out before treating the rest.
 
The whole lot were washed in H2O2, dunked for approx 60 seconds in an 80L plastic tub, drained off then rinsed off twice by dunking in plain water for 2 mins.
 
Then they were gently shaken dry of water and placed on clean blanket on top of an electric blanket to dry.
This is because the cool wet weather we are having wont get the buds dry enough fast enough.
 
I reserved some of this bud to make butter with.
 
Then I chopped 2 of the other plants. Checked them, they were mold free whoohoo! :D: hehehe
 
 
Aaaannnyway, eventually I had 3 of 4 plants down and manicured, keeping the budsickle central bud of the plants I made seeds on aside to dry.
Hanging is my preferred method of drying a budsickle but when seeded they tend to drop a lot of seed as they dry.
My answer is to place a paper bag around each bud so all MIAs[seeds] can be recovered when the bud is dry.
 
For those bigger busickles a brown paper shopping bag with strong handles works well, just make sure to secure the handles to the budstem.
 
So.... my current status.
I just harvested 3 of 4 outside calli-O strain plants, last will come down soon.
 
I have some JackAss AFs finishing up their flowering in ground and pots outside, they will be done within weeks.
My inside grow was doing great until I had an equipment problem th@ took almost 3 weeks or more to fix, so the cabinet plants got infested withmites, thrips and had heat stress problems. I terminated the grow when they were @week 7-8 of flowering so I will get something from them.
 
I got to take some clones of some SNL and BC X JA plants I had given away. Will be rooting them and growing out.
 
I currently have cannabutter on the go and will post pics and explanations soon.
 
ok...off to take some pics and sort some seeds :D: hehehe more later.
:passit:
muA

Edited by IammuA, 29 April 2016 - 12:38 PM.

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#2 plant boy

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Posted 29 April 2016 - 05:56 AM

good to see you back and doing well, sweet and low are outside on the balcony ,9 of them


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#3 IammuA

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Posted 29 April 2016 - 06:00 AM

sweet! 

Good ta hear from ya pb :passit:

My next indoor grow is gonna be a chocolate box grow...a lil of everything I have....the next one however will be an SNL grow :D: hehehehe

was the reason for the 10th seedling "failure to thrive" ? :D: hehehe.... am guessing so, it was a prob with th@ generation....other than th@ look forward to some greedy vigorous monsters :D:

 

muA


Edited by IammuA, 29 April 2016 - 12:41 PM.

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#4 Deepwaterdude

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Posted 29 April 2016 - 11:25 AM

I'm in for the ride;) Around here, humidity is around 10% outdoors and night temps go way low even when daytime is over 80. Mold is a huge problem as are mites, so the oldtimers swear by the ol' H202 dip-n-hang that you just did. 


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#5 IammuA

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Posted 29 April 2016 - 12:46 PM

thanks for dropping in dude :passit:

I have found I MUST double rinse when using H2O2 to remove all of it, otherwise there is a 'taste' or 'effect' to the bud th@ I dont like but just cannot pinpoint.

 

When I spray living plants with an H2O2 mix I always follow awhile later with a good rinse of clean water to wash of H2O2 residue if there is any, but the 2nd rinse means I get no 'speckling' or 'crisping' to the plants.

 

muA


Edited by IammuA, 29 April 2016 - 12:46 PM.

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#6 jm420

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Posted 29 April 2016 - 01:15 PM

never heard of this ,

i got a mold issue now

it wont affect the taste or high but get rid of the "off taste " you describe

what kind of h2o2 the weak or strong and the ratio if ya havnt mentioned

i gotta save this crop :(

i dont type well so if my ?'s seem vague


lights on or off


can ya spray the room down with this to kill spores


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#7 IammuA

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Posted 29 April 2016 - 01:58 PM

jm420, sorry to hear of ya mold problem.

 

SHORT version...read the second link, determine wh@ your H2O2 is, mix and rinse/dunk/spray as SOON as ya have the data, THEN come back and finish reading  :D: hehehe

 

 

hydrogen peroxide is wh@ I used...had about 60 mls in the bottle [was 3% H2O2] so I just dumped it in the tub inna bit of a panic.

I really should have looked up the proper amount to add.

Here is a search of the site with parameters "hydrogen peroxide mold" ...the search bar is near top right of page, will search the site for posts with your keywords in it. A MOST useful tool.

 

The 'taste' I refer to is possibly chemical burn to  the plant?...dunno headscratch.gif , am unsure on this aspect, might be all in ma head, but when spraying living plants I HAVE noticed some 'marking' of the plants...mighta been chemically burnt or I mighta applied too soon before lights on....unknown shrugsmiley.gif

 

 

This thread is a good place to start.

I am there under username 'mediuse' ...check the sig of my posts there and any other sigs on posts from any variation of mediuseA and ya will usually find a lot of info. :D: hehehe, just not had enough time with this name to build ma sig up :D:

 

There are UV-C lights out there for sterilization but H2O2 is a good beginning and much cheaper.

 

 

 

Hydrogen Peroxide is available in 3%, 6%, 27%-33% solutions

The 3% and 6% are most readily usable.

 

Heres an H2O2 treatment for clones with mold.

 

Holler if ya need anything else, eh?

 

:toking:

 

jm, feel free to hit me up in the ch@room. no need for great keyboard skills, come in when ya see me there and pick my brain, share a spliff and chill. Bottom of the front page shows who's in ch@  @ the time.

 

muA


Edited by IammuA, 30 April 2016 - 11:07 PM.

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#8 Suzycrmcheese

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Posted 30 April 2016 - 03:09 AM

At the risk of being a wet blanket, I read that even after rinsing off  the mold, the toxins still remain.  However, unless you are allergic to mold, it won't hurt you.

 

I use Eagle20, controversial in itself.  I run Lemon Kush.  While other strains would be fine, she was always prone to pm.  I use it on all my young babies (NEVER

in flower), and I have not seen one spot of pm in 4 years. 


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#9 IammuA

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Posted 30 April 2016 - 04:06 AM

Hiya Suzy!  highfivegif

Nope, you're not a wet blanket and yes I do believe you might be right...the H2O2 would kill the mold and the spores but they would still remain there without some method to move them. Trouble is, the same movement that might agitate off these spores would for sure knock off the trichomes and damage the bud methinks.

 

OK, we got ourselves the beginning of a discussion :D: muahhaha ...an open debate and sharing of info, opinions and viewpoints... :woohoo:

 

 

 

There are many ways to treat mold...

 

Lets toss a few out there and see wh@ we can, eh? 

Yeah, I KNOW these are incomplete, simplistic and possible wrong :D: hehhehe th@s the point to dialogue, eh?  anim.gif

 

H2O2- hydrogen peroxide. anti fungal, anti bacterial, kills bugs and larvae. many more uses so go search for them! :D: hehehe

Can be used as a dip, a foliar application, a drench, an additive.

 

UV-C A B light- mostly UV-C, is dangerous to be openly exposed to, so care is to be taken. 

 

Sulfur...burning sulfur puts out a cloud th@ covers the growroom and plants in a sulfurous layer th@ inhibits or kills mold.

 

Eagle20 as Suzy pointed out. Just did a fast search. looks interesting. will read up on it tonight.

 

There are a few other treatments and methods... Ozone treatment  of the air comes to mind.

All have pro's and cons.

 

During the worst of the raining weather I had the previous weeks with my outside plants entering the harvest window, I regularly sprayed the flowering plants down with a Seasol solution in an attempt to fend off mold.

When the worst of the weather had passed I did not keep up the spraying with Seasol and the mold struck.

The thing is I have NO REAL proof th@ spraying the plants with Seasol does help in any way.

I will need to research this and find out if it is so :D: muaahahaha...

 

adding some interesting links Here.

and this one.

 

another one.

 

one about budrot

 

Cannabis Mould: Identification, Prevention, and Treatment

 

Greencure looks like most promising product! 

 

others I have come across are sm90    eco carb 

 

planet natural has a wide range of mold related products.

 

 

Almost every treatment for mold involves changing the ph beyond the range the mold N spores can live @ methinks? 

 

muA


Edited by IammuA, 30 April 2016 - 04:44 AM.

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#10 Suzycrmcheese

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Posted 30 April 2016 - 01:05 PM

Love your attitude IammuA!  Living here in moist Oregon, I am probably breathing spores right now...hard to avoid.

 

When I was battling mold, I tried just about everything, even ordering this expensive stuff only available from the UK (can't remember the name).

 

I found GreenCure to work the best...even better then OxiDate, which is very expensive.  I couldn't bring myself to try milk...too many thoughts about

the smell when gone bad maybe.

 

As the market grows, who knows what else will come along to help our gardens flourish?

 

Good air circulation is a must!

 

(Were you on the debate team IammuA?)


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#11 IammuA

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Posted 30 April 2016 - 11:01 PM

No debate teams here in oz lass :D: heheheI just talk a LOT! muahahaha

I HAVE tried a bicarb spray...and it does work, HOWEVER, the times I tried it it also chemically burned ma plants.

 

Greencure and eco carb are more or less the same stuff methinks.

 

Have also tried milk sprays....believe it or not they can be quite effective.....as can the copper based sprays!

 

The main problems I see with mold treatment is airflow....never enough of it through the plants and coverage, spraying the plant to cover ALL surfaces, both top and underside.

 

Another great problem can be mold in the actual building structure itself...spores can and do get everywhere...even roof and wall cavities...so this means the cavities must be cleaned or @least disinfected of mold and spores. Difficult to do.

 

H2O2 solution can be sprayed to sterilize a room including the wall cavities.

 

Ozone can be used to sterilize a room, even pumped into the wall cavities, but no-one should be allowed to stay during treatment as ozone can be hazardous.

 

UV-C can be used to sterilize a room, but is difficult to get into wall cavities and also hazardous to health.

 

A bicarb based spray might be better used as part of a room sterilization regime rather than a plant treatment. Its a bit harsh on the plants methinks. :D:

 

...........

 

ok....lets put some  :Einstein:  behind this..... its time we began  :meatballs:   :gardening-smiley-emoticon-1:  :gardener smiley:  and stopped :i-hate-flies-smiley-emoticon:  Hehehehehe

 

Go check ya stores...wh@ do you have ON HAND NOW for an emergency problem?

 

I just checked my storage shelving and I have H2O2, neem, mitecide [azanactrin methinks?], bicarb, lavender oil, rosemary oil, spare fans, sprayer bottle, sprayer pressure pack, pineOclean disinfectant.

All have their uses, pros and cons.

 

I have a friend on another site who is using only essential oils for bug treatments....with some success it seems :)

 

Anyway...heres some homework for readers of this thread...check wh@you have onhand now if sommat were to occur...make a list of wh@ya have and wh@t its used to treat....then assess your situation.

Wh@ are the most likely problems ya might get and do you have the stuff to treat it on hand? Do you know how to mix and  use it?

 

My main possible problem vectors are mites getting in, heat during summer, mold during winter. 

I cant filter incoming air @the moment so cannot guard against the mites...but can make it unpleasant for em and treat em if/when they occur.

Heat is controlled by keeping air con on and running lights during the night to spread heat over the day.

Mold I cannot stop because the cabinet is not sealed...but again, I have fans and treatments for it.

 

Check wh@ you have on hand...see how  prepared you are!

:SMILEYBIGSMOKE:

 

muA


Edited by IammuA, 30 April 2016 - 11:04 PM.

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#12 IammuA

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Posted 30 April 2016 - 11:14 PM

Suzy...heres a suggestion...find some citrus trees or roses with a mold problem and try different treatments on those plants  :chemist-smiley-emoticon:

 

 

Another hint for those considering H2O2 or Hydrogen Peroxide....it can be a PITA to try to calculate how much to add.

 

Try a google search for 'h2o2 calculator' and ya come up with a few different options for calculating ya H2O2 mix :D

 

 

muA 


Edited by IammuA, 30 April 2016 - 11:19 PM.

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#13 ISO2BWELL

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Posted 01 May 2016 - 04:14 AM

Anyone ever try using a sulphur burner to see if it would knock

out the mold?


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#14 jm420

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Posted 01 May 2016 - 08:24 AM

i have and use eagle 20 in veg ,seems this bout it hit late in flower,did the h2o2 last nite ,we'll see how it works,if id dosnt there goes 12 + oz


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#15 IammuA

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 03:20 AM

How'd the H2O2 go JM?

 

Found this

 

 

There are several products you can use to kill and remove mold. Some of the most effective mold removal products include:

 

 

Borax – Molds alkali arch enemy!

 

Controlling or Eliminating Powdery Mildew

 

 

How To Control Bacteria And Fungus On Your Marijuana Plants

muA


Edited by IammuA, 04 May 2016 - 03:27 AM.

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#16 plant boy

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 05:41 AM

good info , thanks muA


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#17 IammuA

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 06:00 AM

Ya welcome pb :passit: So...wh@ remedies do YOU have onhand pb?

 

The more I read up on mold and treatments the more possibilities I see.

 

muA


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#18 IammuA

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 07:17 AM

 
NOTICE TO ALL:
I work in the metric measurement system, not imperial measurement system.
Metric measurements in my posts are [mostly] exact and imperial measurements may be [mostly] an approximation.
IE: 500 grams of butter is APPROXIMATELY 1 Lb of butter in imperial.
IE: 1 Liter of fluid is APPROXIMATELY 1 qt of fluid in imperial.
 
It is up to the reader to double check the measurements if they want to use exact amounts.
 
I used the google convert function for *C-*F conversion.
 
Type 'convert temperature' into google and hit return/enter button to use the function.
 
This post has been simultaneously posted on FMG and GP.
On FMG as an independent item in cooking section
On GP as a post in my Lair & Lab thread.
 
 
Low Effort Very High Effect Cannabutter.
 
I am making cannabutter in my 3.5L slowcooker.
 
I am using a Calli-O or California Orange strain of bud grown outside and flowered almost 10 weeks. It had a strong black pepper smell when growing & freshly harvested. Its sisters smelt like a fruity sweet chewing gum.
 
Ive used the "keep warm" setting for a 24 hour or so cook this time. Why? 
'caus I'm lazy biggrin.png
 
You might get a good result with a 6 hr, 12 hr or 18 hr cook...I just like the once a day for 3 days process. I'm not well enough to rush things these days. 5-10 mins of labor @dinnertime each day is manageable and I'm not hurting for meds @the moment smile.png
 
If you do some research you will find the lowest evap point of the cannabinoids to be 119*C {246.2*F} so this is the temp we want to stay below to keep the cannabinoids from evaporating away.
 
According to wikkipedia the "keep warm" setting maintains 71–74 °C (160–165 °F) and the 2 heating settings aims for and maintains 79–93 °C (174–199 °F).
 
This is still below the 119*C {246.2*F} mark, but most slowcookers I have seen will keep things @ a rolling boil.
....methinks they run hotter than wikki says biggrin.png  hehehe
 
Here's an experiment you might contribute to. Measure your slowcooker temperature.
 
Fill th@sucker with water to the max fill line and fire it up and measure the temp in half hour increments and the final temp.
See if it boils. Or just measure the final temp of ya slowcooker.
 
Post your slowcooker temps here.
 
Lets find out wh@ our slowcookers are doing for us, eh?
I am gonna buy a thermometer when next shopping and measure mine. Get some real data behind this.
 
+++===+++===
Slowcooker factoid: The high and low settings on a slowcooker do not indicate temperature settings. Slowcookers all get to the same temperature, the switch low and high simply indicates if it reaches th@ predefined temperature in 2 hours or  in 4 hours.
+++===+++===
 
So, I  use the "keep warm" setting, add 500G [1 lb] butter to 2 ltrs [2 qt] water and 3 X 25cm diameter metal bowls full of fresh-from-the-plant bud...methinks when dried would'a been about 3.5 oz...but wet from the plant as it was, I am just guessing.
 
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I top up with water to get it within a cm or 2 from the rim, put foil over inside of the lid and crimp it over to form it to the inside of the crock lid.
 
Attached File  foillid2.jpg   179.04KB   0 downloads
 
 
The reason I add the water is twofold. Water in the mix stops the butter from burning and it also absorbs a lot of the crap th@ comes out of the plant matter.
 
Attached File  cookerlidoff.jpg   78.1KB   0 downloads
 
There will be chlorophylls and surface rubbish, excess moisture and soluble elements from the plant matter. Not to mention sand and grit from growing outdoors!
{I am doing a watercure post soon, look out for th@ and see the gunk bud contains ohmy.png }
 
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The foil over the lid is to cover the outlet hole and give a little more thickness to the lid seal.
 
One sheet of foil is barely enough to cover the slowcooker so I use 2 sheets.
 
 
 
I take 2 sheets of foil and put them edge to edge, fold a few times on the edge join to join the sheets together, then fold it out to spread it.
It is now big enough to cover the slowcooker with ease with enough to crimp over the edges of the crock.
 
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Place double sheet foil over the cooker crock, place the foil covered lid on and seat it properly first, and THEN fold the foil over the edge of the crock. I roll it under and back on itself like pastry crust, then finger crip it.
{the crock is the ceramic slowcooker insert}
 
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This seals the lid with a better seal and keeps the smell in. Smell will only be there when the foil is off the slowcooker.
 biggrin.png
 
I THINK this is because, to a SMALL extent, you have turned it into a [very low]pressure cooker by removing the venting hole and making the lid/crock seal a little bit better.
IF pressure builds, it will make its way out through the foil seal quite easily without causing a problem. Mebbe rattle the lid a lil' Heheehehee
 
IN MY OPINION, to all intensive purposes covering the venthole, making the seal a little better for the lid and using the "keep warm" setting makes the slowcooker function as a Very Low Pressure Cooker, holding pressure but never enough to begin releasing the pressure.
 
Attached File  cookerlidon.jpg   164.06KB   0 downloads
I like to call it the Smokey Bubble Pressure Principle, thinking.gif the tiny amount of pressure used to hold a bubble together...just enough to make it work and no more. Yet a bubble WILL hold in smoke!
 
+++===+++===
Slowcooker factoid: IF you turn the slowcooker settings from "keep warm' to low or high there will be enough pressure for steam to begin escaping from the foil cover. This will mean the smell gets out.
+++===+++===
 
I then leave it on keep warm for 24 hrs or so, then remove the plant matter, strain the mix with a strainer-spoon and a strainer and pour it into a pot to cool.
 
I have tried several slowcookers on the low and high settings and every one of them brings water to a roiling active boil. This is why I use the 'keep warm' setting.
 
As mentioned above, the "keep warm" setting maintains 71–74 °C (160–165 °F),  comfortably below boiling even for a slowcooker th@ runs HOT. It won't really get hot enough to evaporate much water and the foil seal works well enough with the lids weight to hold the small amount of pressure [and smell] in.
Any steam becomes condensation on the inside of the foil and runs down back into the crock.
This stops steam escaping, thus holding in the smell whilst the foil is secured on the crock. No pervading weed smell! biggrin.png hehehe
 
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Add 1st lot of plant matter back to slowcooker, add a second 500G [1 lb] butter and 2 ltrs [2 qt] water and another 3 X 25cm diameter metal bowls full of fresh-from-the-plant bud and top up with water on the "keepwarm" setting for 24 hrs and repeat process a third time with a third 500G [1 lb] butter and another 3 X 25cm diameter metal bowls full of fresh-from-the-plant bud.
 
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Each time the mix is poured and strained to cool, let it reach room temp then place in freezer/fridge to solidify the butter.
 
Remove from freezer before water freezes but after butter has solidified.
 
Remove and save the butter and toss the cooking water.
 
With the final day cooking done, strain/squeeze the plant matter of all butter/water.
 
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Put plant matter aside if ya gonna use it more, otherwise toss it.
 
After removing the cooking water from all 3 butter batches, combine them again in  the slowcooker, then strain again and cool, store butter for use biggrin.png
 
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Hand squeezing the plant matter I recovered about 1.3kg-1.4kg of butter from the original 1.5kg butter I started with.
 
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With a press of some kind I could recover more but my hands can only do so much!  biggrin.png muahahahaa!
 
+++===+++===
Butter recovery from hot plant matter is a PITA without a device to help. Anyone who makes cannabutter might agree with me. It must be done when the plant matter is still hot enough to recover butter before it cools and solidifies. This time I used the original method biggrin.png hehehe I waited for it to cool enough to handle, then squeezed it into nuggets of matter with my hands.
Other methods can be plant matter in a collander/strainer and compression with a plate.
Placing plant matter in a fruit press, olive press...any type of press!
Using a masticating juicer might be an option? I will check it out.
+++===+++===
 
I usually make 500gm [1 lb] batches of butter though this time I had much to make  tongue.png hehehe
 
 
Soon I will make a batch of cannabutter from leaf, stem and leftover/popcorn bud. For this I will use a ricecooker and will post pics and a walkthrough as I have here.
It's pretty much the same process biggrin.png Heheheh
 
 
Regular cannabis lore mentions a ratio of 1 oz dried bud to 250gm {1/4 lb} butter when making cannabutter. This butter I just made is closer to 3X-3.5X regular strength cannabutter.
 
I call it the Green Menace biggrin.png muahahahaaa
 
So, there you have it, Low Effort Very High Effect Cannabutter!
 
 
If I have time, I like to watercure my bud/leaf before making cannabutter with it as I get a milder tasting butter. Watercuring removes a lot of the shite th@ would normally make it into either the butter or the cooking water.
 
Look for a post on watercuring bud & leaf in the near future.
 
Also look for a post on making cannaghee :passit: never done it before but I wanna try ghee [clarified butter with the heavier milkfats removed].
 
 
 
I like to make brownies with my butter. I choose brownie packs th@ require 125gm  {1/4lb} butter and a couple of eggs.
 
Since we want to keep the temp below 119*C {246.2*F} I set & preheat the oven to 110*C
flour the tin [rub with butter/oil then dump in 1-2 tbl spoons flour and shake it around to cover all interior, shake out excess flour],
pour in the brownie mix,
level it out then cover it with foil.
I join 2 foil sheets as shown above and cover the tray with the foil.
 
I usually cook for 2.5-3 hrs with the foil cover to stop it drying out.
This is much longer than usual because the temp is 110*C, not the 180*C recommended on the pack.
The result, however, is a brownie th@ kicks like a mule!
 
Looks like I will be doing a brownie post sometime in the future! biggrin.png
 
 
===
NOW FINALLY {have been writing this post well over a week hehehe } we come too something I only just thought of. biggrin.png
Decarboxylation!
Decarbing bud before making cannabutter is one thing I TOTALLY forgot about when I started making this batch of cannabutter and when writing this post. :bong: I wonder why? headscratch.gif
: Hysterical:
 
Decarbing heats the bud to a set temp for a set time to potentiate the cannabis. To make as much of it as psychoactive as possible by turning THCA into THC.
Gotta go re-readup on it hehehe
 
I've previously on a quite a few occasions made cannabutter with a mix of well dried, cured material combined with fresh-from-the-plant material. It was a very effective butter. But I DID NOT think about the decarbing side of it this time. thinking.gif
 
I've made knockout cannabis milk from fresh-from-the-plant leaf and from fresh-from-the-plant bud many times without decarbing.
 
I have got to do some research again on decarbing bud and find out if the 24hr heat infusion process when making cannabutter is enough to decarb or not. I MAY need to cook my brownies on a higher temp setting to decarb the cannabutter. Hmmm....will hafta wait and see, eh? muahahaaa!
 
 
OK...done some reading of ma OG FAQ... and it says
 

 

Decarboxylation 

 
Some decarboxylization will take place during curing as well. This happens when the carboxyl group (COOH) located at C-2, C-4, or the end of the hydrocarbon chain at C-3 is destroyed leaving a hydrogen attached and liberating CO2. 
 
Decarboxylization is necessary to convert cannabinoids to usable psychoactive forms; the plants (and your body) carboxylize cannabinoids to make them more soluble in water (for metabolic reactions and excretion). 
 
Research indicates that this effect is fairly minimal during the curing process though. Decarboxylization will take place naturally very rapidly at temperatures of over 100C. So smoking and most any cooking will decarboxylize the cannabinoids. As decarboxylization occurs, the loss of CO2 will liberate a small amount of inert material making the pot more potent via concentration of the cannabinoids. 
 

 

 
Hmmm...so it seems I won't need to decarb my butter biggrin.png heeehee
 
 
===
I have found writing out my method and the reasoning behind it most helpful with processes like this.
It clears the mental chaff, sweeps the cobwebs from memory and kicks the tyres of the mind.
 
biggrin.png muahahahahaaha!
 
I hope you the reader also gained something from this little writing exercise of mine, I intended to clear my head by writing it out and in the process it grew biggrin.png hehehe
 
I have tried to outline the reasoning behind wh@ I do in the cannabutter process.
 
If you have any questions, ask away! 
If you have an opinion or observation, feel free to express it.
 
If you think I am wrong, mistaken, misled, or not quite right on any of wh@ I've written here, feel free to chime in and say so or express an opinion.
 
I am always open to learning, expanding my horizons and am a big boy, I can take being corrected...in fact it's an active part of my learning process! Teeheehee
 
 
I Want to Thank everyone who has helped me over the years, learning, knowledge and advice.
I did not learn only from making cannabutter on my own, I was given much advice, opinion and information over the years.
And some of the most important was ENCOURAGEMENT.
 
So...get out there, make some cannabutter, give it a try!
Post your results.
Discover some new methods!
 
Ooooh! oooh! I got a good one!, make cannabutter with scuff in an old dripper coffepot!
Scuff/bud in coffeepot with water and butter, cover with foil and leave it be on the heatpad a few days or a week :passit: easypeasy
a tin mug with foil sitting next the radiant heater!
muahahaa 
 
Try it with coconut oil.
Tasty, healthy and separates like butter in the fridge.
I have made this many times and it is good.
 
Try it with Glycerin.
A sweet alternative to sugar, although it is hydrophobic. It will absorb moisture, so use well dried and decarbed bud and store in airtight jar filled close to the top.
I have made this a few times and if done right is good.
 
 
If you can modify and hack an old 2nd hand bread machine, they are basically a heating element and knurling tool built into a removable cooking container.
An ideal platform to begin making an automatic cannabutter machine. biggrin.png heeeheee
 
google "magic butter machine" for some inspiration.
 
Sometime soon I will do a cannabutter from budtwigs and scruff [lil bits of hard to identify cannabis :D ].
For th@ I will make a smaller batch of butter, most probably using my ricecooker, mebbe a coffee maker.
 
Cannabutter is not beyond the average smoker making every once in awhile.
Budtwigs and scruff really build up over time, especially if you start activly saving it!
 
When I do the budtwigs and scruff cannabutter it will be a small achievable-by-many amount. Maybe 50gm to 100gm of butter. Enough for a dose or two. tongue.png
 
One can also make canna-cream and canna-ice-cream though I suggest using quality clean tasting plant matter or water cured plant matter as there is no water-full-of-gunk-removal step making these things as there is with cannabutter.
 
 
 
Well, th@'s all for ths post hehehe...went on long but hopefully it paid off in the end! muahahaa!
rasta.nana.gif
 
muA

 


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#19 jm420

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 11:51 AM

saved the crop taste test tommrw,90%washed clean


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#20 IammuA

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 12:13 PM

Mine is tasting ok...not much difference to the untreated sisterplant.

 

saving 90% of a crop is nothing to be sneezed @, eh?  bigsmileythumbsup

 

muA


Edited by IammuA, 04 May 2016 - 12:13 PM.

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#21 jm420

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 02:11 PM

rent will get paid me thinks

thanks for sharing

tbh sucks dunkin yor buds in water ,didnt feel right lol

didnt  seem to hurt the bag apeal

i worder if an actinovate dunk would work even better


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#22 IammuA

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 02:43 PM

hmmm yes and no methinks.

YES...it looks to be an effective product...but on a living plant with the ecosystem to support the goodies you deposit on the plants. [the actinovate]

 

The MSDS for actinovate says

 

Note: This product contains beneficial microorganisms. Novozymes exclusively uses non-pathogenic beneficial

microorganisms that are considered to be non-allergenic, non-irritating and non-sensitizing when used as directed.
Exposure to very high levels of airborne microbial spores may result in very rare respiratory impairments or cause an
allergic reaction in sensitized individuals. A Material Safety Data Sheet is supplied with all products.

 

 
NO...because you were so close to harvest and th@ you harvested the buds. Ya dont wanna put sommat like this on soon to be smoked bud. The H2O2 dunk will do the job and leave the bud sterile if dried well.

 

If you left the bud on the plant I would suggest you try the actinovate but not on soon to be toked bud.

 

:D: We growers have a small arsenal of methods and means, sharing them only makes us all better growers. hehhehe

 

Am glad ya harvest was saved as it was. 

 

Was most fortunate ya had H2O2 onhand or nearby.

 

Got any other things ON HAND NOW for an emergency problem?

 

ps: dont forget to get more H2O2 jm :stick out tongue:

 

Think of dunking buds in water like fresh rain on the plant night before harvest. Get it dry enough fast enough, no problem!

 

muA


Edited by IammuA, 04 May 2016 - 02:55 PM.

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#23 plant boy

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Posted 05 May 2016 - 06:19 AM

good info , may try it out


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#24 IammuA

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 06:13 AM

chewiegif

 

muahahaa :D:

 

Ok...new spring weather...time to begin popping beans.

 

I have a strain gifted by a buddy I believe is amnesia haze X bubblegum, unsure of the genealogy and heritage...am just excited to get em growing hehehe

 

Here are the beans...

Attached File  bagObeans.JPG   61.23KB   0 downloads

 

 

and here is a tub of foam cups with holes punctured in the bottom and filled with coir.

Attached File  tubOcups.JPG   165.45KB   0 downloads

 

 

Unfortunately the coir is hyper dry and hydrophobic @the moment. {I HOPE th@ was the right word :stick out tongue: heheh }

I added a tad of 3% H2O2 [ hydrogen peroxide ] just after taking this picture and after 15 mins the coir really seems to have begun sopping up the water.

 

Yes, yes...I KNOW I could have wet the coir FIRST before cupping up...lesson learned and the next batch to be popped will have the coir prepped before cupping up.

 

 

I am going to prep another tub tonight and when done will have a total of 40 seeds planted....from these I will choose females to grow out....if the males are obliging I might even save some pollen, though my main need for this crop is seedless bud...my meds cabinet is bare and needsAfillin' :stick out tongue:

 

Rundown on the method;

I am going to have a small outdoors crop this year as well as the ubercabinet...a whopping  800W of HPS in a 120cm X 145cm area  :o muahaha

 

Will be growing in coir in 9L-13L containers using Powerfeed and Seasol ....which is basically seaweed and fish emulsion :D hehehe

 

 

Still got some work to do in the lair until its prepped for growing but this gives me a couple of weeks to get my act together before these plants-to-be are actually plants-in-need of potting up heeeheee.

 

 

 

muA


Edited by IammuA, 19 October 2016 - 06:24 AM.

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#25 plant boy

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 06:32 AM

good luck on the next round


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