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#26 anothertime

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Posted 13 August 2016 - 12:20 PM

thanks for your insight and info DWD i appreciate hearing that im not the only fool that donates grow space to a new fangdangled way of getting more out of this plant we treasure with minumal expense out of the producers wallet,when the way we grow presently does the trick and keeps jars on the shelf.your info is held in the highest regard with me but still the itch is there to experiment.i likely wont be doing it with this grow or any of the other soil tests but immediately after im sure you will find me with sissors in hand doing at least one!!!!! one never knows maybe its ment for me!!!! hahah likely not but gosh it would bother me not to try!!!

 

 

 

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         PARTNER

 

p.s. 

       looking at his prized pic of his finished plant anyone with a eye and arsehole can tell loads of work has went into making that plants structure far more than just deleafing!!!


Edited by anothertime, 13 August 2016 - 12:28 PM.

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#27 anothertime

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Posted 13 August 2016 - 06:27 PM

The Complete System Introduction

Continuous Credit to Clackamascoots, Gascanastan and all the others before me.

The reason we put this system together is for those that want to have a birds eye view of the entire process from start to finish. Many people want to grow naturally and just don't trust that it will work. Some are doing it now but they are missing some key element and it's not coming out quite right. Once you get the full picture and understand how flexible this whole system is you will "get it" and create your own system that works for you and your situation. 

The ultimate goal is to use nothing but home made compost that has been created with all of the nutrients built in. If you can get to the point where your soil is so alive and healthy that all you have to do is plant a seed and add water, then you have arrived.  Having the best soil doesn't have to take forever and in the mean time there are many Compost teas, Botanical Teas and fertilizer inputs that you can add to Build a soil for long term production. 

The modern way is to use chemistry to make NPK and several micro-nutrients available to the plants through use of plant ready water soluble nutrients. The PH of the nutrient supply will heavily effect the outcome of the plant. This is the "Feeding the plant" Paradigm. 

The organic way is to build a compost based on the plants that are high in nutrient content and to utilize organic amendments that work in harmony with the plant and the soil. The BuildASoil way is to combine premium compost materials with diverse mineral inputs and utilize biology along with science. We are constantly getting our soils tested and adjusting so you don't have to. We want diversity and we want it all in the soil. The nutrients aren't immediately available in the organic system, we will rely on the biology of the soil to naturally produce nutrients for our plants based on it's growing needs. The soil food web is the cornerstone to cultivating plants in a Living Organic Soil System. The soil life is active and healthy and helping to make these nutrients available, and the plants growing on this Living Organic Soil have free-choice of any nutrient they want, in balance, a balance designed by intelligent science and observation. But it doesn't come in a bottle. The other nice thing about Building A Soil for All Natural production indoors, is that you have a blank canvas to work with... you can literally build the best soil possible. While working on large outdoor farms, you have to work with the existing soil and improve it over time. 

 NPKBigToss_medium.jpg?797

The System

 

This guide is for Vegetables and Medicinal Herbs but will work with most fast Annual flowering plants. If you have a strange plant that you want to grow, consider it's native soil and best recreate that. This information works absolutely perfect for food and medicinal herbs. The entire system is meant to be more sustainable and also use local resources when possible. 

This information is mainly for growing in containers and raised beds for the home gardener. If using containers for the patio, the greenhouse, or indoors, use as much soil as you can afford. I prefer a minimum of 5-30 gallons of soil per plant if growing in containers. Tomato's love the half whiskey barrel size, but bigger wouldn't be an issue except for moving it around. The larger the soil volume in your container the easier it will be to keep moist and keep alive with many different microbes and critters. The smaller the container the more botanical teas and compost teas you will end up using along with a little more attention to detail. 

 

Rule #1: Don't try to grow a plant, instead BuildASoil that does that for you: Use Premium inputs and get premium results. Your goal is to build the best soil possible and keep it like a pet. Keep it moist and alive as best as you can, input more than you take out and the soil will last forever as it continues to evolve and become more blessed with life.

Rule #2: Learn to make your own compost and your own Earthworm Castings: You would be surprised how small of a space you can make quality compost in. Search our website for "indoor compost" and you will see what I mean. But if you really can't do the whole compost or worm bin thing, then I suggest you learn to find a really good source for local compost that is affordable. If you can't find compost local then use our pure worm castings. The shipping keeps the price a little high, but my goal is to make this as affordable as possible for everyone to benefit from. 

Rule#3: Use premium quality compost or earthworm castings, preferably home made. Yes I said this twice. It's that important.

Rule #4: Don't be tempted to go back to the bottled nutrients: Even if they say organic, because nothing will be as good as you own soil. The big bottled nutrient companies buy ingredients in bulk and often use soy and cotton that are GMO and full of pesticides. Get this right and your garden will be more productive and more nutritious than ever before. Don't worry about growing plants, focus on building soil! 

Rule #5: Avoid ingredients that say they are organic but really aren't good for the environment. The Organic Label is slowly selling out in the marketplace depending on who is doing the certification. Don't worry if it's not organic as long as you know where it came from and that it is good stuff. Think about each ingredient in the products you purchase. Just because the nutrients at the grow shop have cool labels and high prices does not mean that they will grow better plants.

Rule #6: No matter what else you do, make sure you MULCH. If you skip Mulching you are missing the boat. 

 

Integrated Pest Management: Use a basic home made pest spray every 3-7 days during vegetative growth phase for pest prevention. 

Seedling or Cuttings:  

 
 
I always prefer to start seeds in the most amount of soil possible, so if you are starting a small garden and can afford to mix up 1/2 gallon of soil per seed or cutting you will be very well off, but start with whatever you can. I prefer to avoid stressing the seedlings with multiple transplants. So if you can sow the seeds directly into their final home that will be ideal, weather or garden space permitting.  
 
Choose the bests organic seeds possible. Do NOT sprout them in a paper towel. 
 
 
Mix 60% Sphagnum Peat Moss and 40% Earthworm Castings together. Then add a small amount of oyster flour or gypsum at 2-4 cups per cubic foot (2-4 Tablespoon per gallon) and let the mix sit for at least two weeks before using. If you would feel more comfortable you can also add some aeration like buckwheat hulls, perlite, vermiculite or anything lightweight. (If you add buckwheat hulls for aeration let this mix sit for a couple of weeks before planting in it) Once your soil is moist and ready for the seeds, plant them according to the package. Most seeds you can just push barely into the moist soil and cover lightly. Keep the top of the soil moist while you wait for them to sprout. I suggest using a sprayer as opposed to heavy splashes of water that will dislodge your seeds. Anyways, once you have your cloning and seedling soil all mixed up you will want to store it in a Rubbermaid tub, trashcan or whatever is most convenient for you for future use.
 
 
 
If you would like extremely detailed information on starting plants from seed or cutting, check out our blog articles!
 
 
 
Vegetative Phase:
If your soil is older and full of life you can most likely just use good clean water all the way through from start to finish. But when you are first mixing up a fresh soil it is helpful to boost the soil life by using Compost Tea's. When your soil needs a nutrient kick you can also try Botanical Tea's and other DIY nutrient solutions. To learn More about Compost Tea and Botanical Tea's, Read Below in the details.
Week 1: Use the Aloe and or Coconut Solution to water once. 
Week 2: Straight water
Week 3-5: Water or Botanical Tea depending on how the plants look. If they aren't dark green and healthy, you may want to use a tea. 
Week 6-8: Transplant to garden or final container and use a BuildAFlower top dress kit with a compost tea or Kelp Meal Tea. 
 
 
 
Flowering Phase: 
Focus on minimizing stress to your plants. Pay attention to the increased use of water at this point and make sure to do a good pest spray right before this point. 
Week 1-2: After the Flowering Top Dress, Water only or Basic Botanical Teas
Week 3-4: Start using SST tea's at this point if you haven't done so already. (SST = Sprouted Seed Tea)
Weeks 4-8: SST, Aloe Vera Juice, Coconut water or just straight water. Don't overdo it, but don't be scared to spoil your plants. No more botanical tea's will be necessary from here on out unless you know that this variety has a long season and will require an extra boost. 

 

Here is a basic breakdown to help you with the above schedule.

 

DIY Rooting solution or Cloning Gel: Aloe Vera and Coconut water

Recipe: 1/4 cup preservative free coconut water and 1/4 cup preservative free Aloe Vera Juice into 1 gallon clean water. Soak your stubborn seeds in this or use to soak your cuttings in before planting. Or like me, just water your seedling/cloning soil with it prior to planting. 

Take a fresh tip of aloe vera and rub it on your plant stems before you plant them into the cloning soil below. Or Ideally, blend up the fresh aloe filet and mix with water and soak your cuttings in a cup of this mixture before planting. Say a 1" chunk for a tall glass of water? Not need to be exact, they Aloe leaf is very high in a compound called salicylic acid and is the key component for cloning purposes. Another way to do this is to purchase aloe vera juice at the health food store at about 1/4 cup per gallon. ($25-$30) Heck you could even buy pure 200x concentrate organic aloe vera powder and use to make fresh aloe vera juice on demand. No matter how you slice it, if you have heard of willow root or asprin or cloning gel to stimulate rooting then why not use the best plant of them all, the Aloe Vera Plant? It really works and you will be very happy because there are many other benefits. Check out the detailed blog article on Aloe Here. 

The next thing you want is a young coconut or a simple can of coconut water from the health food store. OR they have pure Coconut water powder you can get too, just don't use the stuff with preservatives in it. Coconut water is a superfood and is excellent for seed starting and cloning, see the full blog article over here. 

 

Cloning and Seedling Soil Mix:

Mix 60% Sphagnum Peat Moss and 40% Earthworm Castings together. If you would feel more comfortable you can also add some aeration like buckwheat hulls, perlite, vermiculite or anything lightweight. The aeration is not necessary however because the young seedlings, or clones will absolutely love the 60/40 mix. You could even grow plants to fruition in a 60/40 mix like this. Anyways, once you have your cloning and seedling soil all mixed up you will want to store it in a Rubbermaid tub, trashcan or whatever is most convenient for you. I always prefer to start seeds in the most amount of soil possible, so if you are starting a small garden and can afford to mix up 1/2 gallon of soil per seed or cutting you will be very well off, but start with whatever you can. I prefer to avoid stressing the seedlings with multiple transplants So if you can sow the seeds directly into their final home that will be ideal, weather or garden space permitting.

 

Complete Premium Soil Mix: (Try to find local compost or worm castings if possible) 

Don't be afraid to mess with the base a little bit depending on the size of your container and how much water you want the mix to hold. If you can't get to the plants to water as often as you would like, add a little more topsoil but be aware of this so that you do not over water.

15% Vermicompost

15% Compost

30 - 40% Sphagnum Peat Moss or Homemade Leafmold

20 - 30% Small Lava Rock, Perlite, Buckwheat hulls, rice hulls etc. something for aeration

5 -15% Topsoil (You can skip this if you are unsure of the quality of your topsoil) 

1 Nutrient Kit or your own custom blend of nutrient amendments. Just make sure you have the necessary minerals that will help create nutrient dense plants. 

Don't worry about being exact, just get a good mix together and lightly moisten it all and add your soil amendments and then let sit for 2-4 weeks before planting into it. You can mix it up on a tarp and then wrap it up in the tarp until it's ready or you can scoop it all into a trashcan or just simply into a huge pile in the garden. With all these premium ingredients it would be bests to keep this soil mixed up and covered. This will allow it to heat up and breakdown any of the ingredients that require more composting before you plant into it. 

 

Compost Tea: 

Use this if your plants aren't taking to the new soil well, or if the new seedlings aren't growing as fast as you think they should be. Compost tea will help kick start the nutrient cycling that occurs when soil micro-life breakdown the organic soil amendments into available plant nutrients the plants can uptake. 

Often times when you see a plant that is yellowing or has strange growth it is because of a nutrient deficiency. Adding more fertilizer is NOT the problem when you Build A Soil properly. The nutrients are Absolutely in the soil, and this cuts all the guessing out. If you use a compost tea in this situation you will more than likely see all of the plants start miraculously growing healthy again within 48 hours. The great thing is you won't need to spend any time diagnosing for plant health issues because it's all in the SOIL baby!

Here is the basic Compost Tea Recipe you should always be using. Unless you have expensive microscopes and a complete understanding of the process's involved it will be best to stick with this recipe. 

You will Need a compost tea brewer, if you don't have one, then check out the DIY Tutorial instructions here or email me and I'll help you build a cheap one that will work alright to start. 

(If you don't have the resources to build a proper brewer, don't try and half ass it.... just make Earthworm Casting Slurry Instead and feed that to your plants.)

Recipe:

4 Gallons of water in 5 gallon brewer will allow for foaming

1.5 cups of Earthworm castings or high quality compost screened so as not to clog the compost tea brewer. 

1/3 Cup Non Sulfured Molasses

Brew for 24 - 30 Hours at between 60 and 80 degrees F for optimal results. If colder brew for 30-34 hours if warmer brew for 20-30 hours. 

Notice: Without a microscope and Dissolved Oxygen Meter we really don't know what is going on in the Compost Tea. I would recommend using EWC Slurry if you don't want to worry about all of this. To make a slurry use 10-20% vermicompost to clean water and brew for 24 hours. 

************************** some useful info and a intro to clackamascoots soil mix**************************


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#28 anothertime

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Posted 13 August 2016 - 06:34 PM

Sprouted Seed Tea: (SST)

Seeds have all the enzymes ready to create life and we can harness this with sprouts. Think of this as a do it yourself enzyme tea that costs pennies.

This super seed tea will change your game completely and is worth the extra time it takes. Use this weekly or at least once per month especially towards the finish of your plants. 

Ingredients: 2 ounces of Organic Barley Seeds, Corn Seeds, Legumes, really anything but it works best with barley because barley is cheap and also high in nutrients. 

I use a seed sprouter but you could easily use a jar. Take your 2 ounces of seeds and soak them for 8-12 hours or so and then rinse well. This is key, because you will be rinsing off a compound that inhibits growth on the surface of the seeds and we don't want this in our finished product. 

Once the seeds are soaked and rinsed you can leave them kinda moist in the bottom of the jar and let the sprout over 2-3 days. Once the tails are as long as the seed itself you can then fill the jar with water and let it sit for 3 days or you can blend up the seeds and mix with 5 gallons of water to use immediately.

 

Top Dressing:

In nature things fall to the forest floor and slowly decompose into a rich top layer of compost and humus. This process can be utilized in your garden as well with amazing results. You can take a small amount of the amendment you want to add and sprinkle it on top and then cover it up with compost or worm castings. For instance, chopped up comfrey and some kelp meal top dressed with a layer of worm castings. That would be an incredible nutrient kick for any plant! Check out our Top Dress Kits over here. 

 

Mulch: 

Use Dead mulch like wood chips, straw or anything you have to keep the top layer of soil moist, this will add a huge benefit to your plants, will also minimize the water input needed and weeds will struggle to grow. You can also plant a cover crop like clover to act as a sort of living mulch. Read all about mulching over here. 

 

Watering Practices:

When you start adding organic material to your garden soil and begin using compost and mulch you will use MUCH less water because of the water holding capacity and efficient use by the soil itself. That being said, watering is important and you should follow some basics for best results.

1. Water before sunrise or in the early morning. Indoors this means before the lights come on, or just after. This will allow the plants to have moisture for the hot day. Watering at night can cause issues based on your environment and should be avoided unless they have to have the water. 

2. Water with Clean water. Use rain water or use tap water that has sat out for a day or two. Filter your water, just do something to have the best water you can afford to use for the garden.

3. Water at a temperature that isn't extreme. Don't use ice cold water or hot water if at all possible. 

4. Make sure you have proper drainage and water till just a little barely comes out the bottom of your container or until the garden is properly moist but not flooded. 

5. Don't aim for wet and dry cycles. Aim for Consistency of time of watering and also for a good moisture level in the soil. Keeping the soil moist will keep all the soil microbes alive and well. Drying out the soil will kill much of the soil life. 

********************* so there it is******************************


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#29 anothertime

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Posted 15 August 2016 - 03:59 PM

CLACS SOIL RECIPE

Expired

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Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,562
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Equal parts of Sphagnum peat moss, some aeration deal (pumice, rice hulls, lava rock - whatever is sitting in the garage) and finally some mix of humus - my compost, worm castings some black leaf mold I bought from the local 'worm guy'

To each 1 c.f. of this mix I add the following:

1/2 cup organic Neem meal
1/2 cup organic Kelp meal
1/2 cup Crab meal (or Crustacean meal when available - it has Shrimp meal with the Crab meal. It's a local product from the fisheries on the Oregon & Washington Coasts)

4 cups of some minerals - rock dust

After the plant is in the final container I top-dress with my worm castings at 2" or so and then I hit it with Aloe vera juice and Comfrey extract. Or Borage. Or Stinging Nettle. Or Horsetail ferns. Whatever is ready.

That's it.

To recycle I've just been letting the root ball breakdown and I remove it. I dump the potting soil into an extra large SmartPot container (50 gallons) and add some new potting soil mix as above. I water it down with Kelp meal and Comfrey tea and let it sit until I need it. 
 
HERE IS THE MINERALS OR ROCK DUST HE MENTIONS
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The 'rock dust' term I used should have included an explanation, i.e. it's a mix I had made and bagged:

4x - Glacial Rock Dust - Canadian Glacial (Gaia Green label)
1x - Bentonite - from the pottery supply store in PDX
1x - Oyster Shell Powder - the standard product from San Francisco Bay
1x - Basalt - from Redmond, Oregon (new product at Concentrates - about $18.00)

No Dolomite Lime, Greensand or SRP was used. Or Azomite.

LOL

CC

Ain't rocket science......

CC

 

 


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#30 anothertime

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Posted 15 August 2016 - 04:07 PM

The reason ive posted the above is that the clones from these plants presently in flower and a plant i call Miss IAM (my answer to most reasons given for autos)are presently growing in veg in this mix.they will be the next grow once these finish in flower!!

 

                                 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 keep smiling and keep it green

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      PARTNER                                                                                            


Edited by anothertime, 16 August 2016 - 09:26 AM.

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#31 anothertime

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Posted 17 August 2016 - 01:33 PM

4 WEEK UPDATE ON THE FIRST PLANTS IN FLOWER AND THE REST IN FLOWER (28 DAYS IN)

 

plant 1 and 2 from the doorway(cjxsb)

Attached File  plant 1-2 from the doorway.jpg   59.35KB   0 downloads

 

plant1 

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plant1 from top

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plant2

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plant 2 from top

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dwarf (cjxsb) 20 days in left or high side bit of leaf removal we shall see and a cjx4sd being sexed and if all goes well some clones taken

Attached File  dwarf (cjxsb) and plant being sexed (cjx4sd).jpg   75.04KB   0 downloads

 

nl#5xgod bud 12 days flowering a clone that i switched from a hempy cup to this soil mix that was just trained over and allowed to grow

Attached File  nl#5xgod bud.jpg   112.29KB   0 downloads

 

Attached File  top of nl#5xgod bud.jpg   104.12KB   0 downloads

 

well there you have it they seem to be doing not bad. to stick with this soil mix being water to finish all these plants have had is bubbled tap water throughout there life.the lil snow ball buds on plant 1 and two indicate the end of the stretch now we need flowers!! 

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           keep smiling and keep it green

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  PARTNER

 

 


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#32 anothertime

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Posted 24 August 2016 - 01:07 PM

proper flower dates are posted with the pics stoner moment when i made the heading!!


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#33 plant boy

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Posted 27 August 2016 - 07:29 AM

little ladies are looking good


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#34 anothertime

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Posted 05 September 2016 - 11:54 AM

veg pics

57cd7ce1d5bb9_cloneoff1-2inflowerandcase

clones off the cj x sb that are in flower in back is a cj x 4sd(hoping its a lady no preflower yet)57cd7dcb7cd08_nl5xgodbud.jpg.b868d240476

57cd7e30b3bf9_clonesrootedandreadytopass

IAM my nl#5xgod bud in veg and some clones ready to pass the luv on

 

FLOWER

57cd7ea6e2fa3_plant1-2.jpg.d3f9ee9d6cb96

 

plant 1-2 from door cj x sb

 

57cd7f1ab386a_plant1tops.jpg.3c12e9fdca4

plant 1 from the top

57cd7f4fdf5fb_plant-2tops.jpg.839bbd81ae

plant 2 from the top

57cd7f6eee94a_thedwarf.jpg.83c00fbcbc26a

the dwarf

qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq.jpg.be5597d411ed4e72c

nl#5 x god bud

 

theres about 4-5 weeks left (for plant 1 and 2)in flower as you can see they will give a reasonable return for a just add water routine how simple can it be.the buds certainly wont get to the size a advanced grower can take them but it certainly is a good starting point for any beginner considering getting into natural growing.

 

                                                                                                                                                                             keep smiling and keep it green

                                                                                                                                                                             PARD


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#35 Suzycrmcheese

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Posted 05 September 2016 - 02:59 PM

Interesting info here.  I do appreciate the details of your posts explaining your techniques!  I will have to come back later when I have time to read it all.

 

I like trying new things, and find your defoliation theory fascinating as it does seem to fly in the face of gardening science with photosynthesis.

 

I have 2 Master Kush, and 2 Martian Kush in veg right now...may try a side by side experiment with them.


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#36 CrazyDave

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 09:22 AM

Looking good man, great info!  :D 


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#37 anothertime

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 01:47 PM

Interesting info here.  I do appreciate the details of your posts explaining your techniques!  I will have to come back later when I have time to read it all.

 

I like trying new things, and find your defoliation theory fascinating as it does seem to fly in the face of gardening science with photosynthesis.

 

I have 2 Master Kush, and 2 Martian Kush in veg right now...may try a side by side experiment with them.

this is definately not my routine ive experimented once with it on the dwarf plant you see in flower.anything new this ole man has to try at least once twice and sometimes three or four hahaha have a good day and good luck with your grows!!!


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#38 anothertime

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 05:40 PM

anything you see here suzy is all someone else's work,im afraid to say i aint nowhere smart enough to do or understand theses things so its all trail and error for me all i do on boards is try methods of growing that come recommended to me.what i do is find a method the journaled better growers on any site use then try to copy there grow methods adjusting them to the conditions that my grow room environment allows,then report my findings.i depend on great growers on the net to supply the fundamentals of growing then i share what works and sometimes what doesn't work for me.thanks for your interest!! 

 

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#39 anothertime

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Posted 15 September 2016 - 11:00 AM

heres a couple pics of trics at 60x and trics at 400x at the beginning of week 7 for plant 1 and 2.plant 1 i left on straight water,i couldnt help myself i started teaing plant 2,its been teaed twice so far back to back in the last week.(certainly to late in the plants life to do much but i do expect to increase the quantity somewhat)found it harder than i thought it would be to leave them flower knowing i could be helping making them a bit more majestic, which these genetics from what ive seen certainly deserve.ill post pics of them at the start of week 9.heres the pics taken with a veho 400x usb scope.

 

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#40 anothertime

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Posted 23 October 2016 - 09:01 AM

o.k. here is where we are.i had a accident that im healing from and my bride while i was in the hosi was kind enough to harvest the two plants that was used in this experiment.she harvested the 28th of sept.oct 2 a couple friends of mine helped Diane move IAM into flower,thxs to friends for help.IAM is and has been receiving tea in this same soil mix from the start of her life in veg.pic of her to follow. business at hand plant 1 produced 2 oz 22 grams.plant 2 produced 3 oz 5 grams.not terrible bad but to sum up here its not all bad for just adding water but certainly by no means the nice tight buds and bigger production we all strive for.i think you will see that teas are a necessity in any soil mix to max out the genetics.this holds true for all of the soil mixes found in this journal.imho as you step up in the 4 soil mixes mentioned in this post cost per pail of mix increases but tea is still a necessity,what you are doing is getting closer and closer to the inevitable of organic soil.what i suggest here is determining to what level of  natural growing you feel comfortable with!!I AGAIN I MUST MENTION HERE THIS IS BY NO WAY A GENETIC COMPARISON!!

 

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#41 IammuA

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Posted 23 October 2016 - 10:40 AM

healing thoughts going your way man! flyingsmiley.gif

 

muA


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#42 anothertime

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Posted 25 October 2016 - 10:18 AM

o.k. here is IAM in all her glory she is 4 ft by 4 ft as we speak put to flower on oct 2.this plant is in the same soil mix but ive been teaing her since she came as a clone in salt base nutes to me.(PUT INTO NATURAL SOIL)a pic of her young is found in the first pics in this journal.she is the plant in the middle of the first group shot.

 

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her stem

 

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yardstick showing her size

 

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couple bud pics

 

 

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Edited by anothertime, 25 October 2016 - 10:19 AM.

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#43 Deepwaterdude

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Posted 25 October 2016 - 11:36 AM

Nice looking LST, anothertime, good looking plant;)


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#44 anothertime

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Posted 25 October 2016 - 11:38 AM

this plant initially was put into clacks soil mix as a clone fed by salt base nutes the pot used was 4 inch pot holding about a gal of clacks mix.two weeks later i put it in a 11 liter container back in L.C. soil mix all subsequent uppots were in L.C.soil mix till its final container of 63 liters.i went back to the L.C. mix to hopefully show that soil mixes no matter which one does better with tea. 


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#45 IammuA

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Posted 25 October 2016 - 01:53 PM

IME tea's can really help most grows, regardless of medium used...the trick I think is using the right dilution for the medium on hand.

 

Droolworthy gals! kudos! :toking:

 

muA


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#46 anothertime

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 11:43 AM

today starting 6th week of flower.getting tea.

 

IAM

 

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#47 IammuA

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 11:47 AM

Iam......GOBSMACKED! :o

monster gals!

 

muahaha

 

muA


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#48 anothertime

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 12:54 PM

thats one gal  she is 4ftx4ft


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