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Soiless Mix?

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#1 maryjanemarley

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 12:09 AM

can someone please explain the "mechanics" of a soiless mix? how and what nutrients do i use at what stage?! help please!
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#2 mediuseA

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 04:51 AM

kk...here's MY take on it...soil is full of micro organisms...and nutrient rich material [unless it's poor soil] ...some elements are readily available, others are released over time as breakdown within the soil occurs...in short...food and stability for the plant...soil can be amended [added to] with other elements...and with things like perlite , vermiculite or other things.... a soil less mix, IMO is something made up of things like composted material, sometimes bark and plant matter...composted, or coco coir and with things like perlite and other drainage enhancers...there are a few things you could put into a soil less mix....but the upshot is it will prob not have microfauna or nutrition elements....with a soil less mix these are added when watering. Anyway...th@'s my top of ma heid opinion :D am sure others will chime in also :P muA
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#3 KnuckleDragger

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 09:46 AM

By legal and scientific definition soil provides nutrients and soilless does not.

Soilless can be almost anything. In the original hydroponics experiments they used sand, gravel and lava rock as the grow media but nowadays coco and sphagnum peat are the standard soilless media though perlite is also used quite a bit.

If you look at most growers soil recipes you start with peat as the base filler material then add your supply of nutrients from such things as cow manure, alfalfa meal and mineral supplements and let them compost a few weeks and you have a custom growing soil. Subcool has a very good recipe https://www.greenpas...631#entry279631 if you want to try and make your own. Otherwise you can buy it at your local garden center.
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#4 OrangeSkunk

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 10:12 AM

i think soil means food in the medium. soiless means no food in the medium (until you add it in). peat is pretty old school and is very acidic and expensive and not too many use it. coco is pretty nice, but gets expensive if you're replacing it every cycle. how to use it (soiless)? it is a hydro method, and you should treat it more like hydro than soil gardening. hope that helps.
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#5 xxPeacePipexx

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 10:33 AM

Hey there , welcome to GP MaryJane , Youll find most great advice above in the definition of soiless ! I use coco now due to the price and its weight factor .. No matter the inert medium used youll have to adjust your feeding schedule according to the variables .. I am not sure of what soiless product your intending to use but its wise to inoculate in before planting with perhaps Mychorizae and a small amount of nutrients , you can use an organic or a synthetic its your choice .. As well its wise to have some Cal/mag on hand depending on your base water but no matter at some point youll need it and it will become a beneficial to use .. When you preset your medium you should use perhaps 1/8-1/4 th the manufactures recomendated amount of nutrients , make sure to apply it generously and youll see the seeds or cuts start to feed in no time once they are established . Then from there on out I can only give a guidline of when and how much to feed , generally you ll slowly increase your feeds and water only every third time as most do.. Once there developing youll see an increased need in nutrients if you dont adjust .. The veg stage usually runs from 800 ppm - 1200 ppm depending on many variables .. Flower stage usually I feed with Veg ferts for the 1 st two weeks and then I switch to a Flower formula and run that acording to the variables at 800 ppm - 1200 + depending on the strain and medium .. As well I like to add a bloom booster in the peak weeks of flowering and that I like to run full stregth .. So thats a little bit of how I grow with soiless media but again I must reiterate that the variables can change dramaticaly from grow to grow and medium to medium .. An example would be a coco grow verses a pro mix grow , the coco needs extra cal mag from the go . its best to only go to 1200 ppm total with coco , but with pro mix I can go to 1600 ppm with most strains when they are mature and only use cal mag in bloom .. Best of luck and when you choose and get your medium and gear , well be more than glad to assist you with your grow .. We will need some info though on the setup and more .. Once we understand where your at , we can truely help dial you in and then you ll have a fine tuned grow .. L8tr .Potsnob
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#6 maryjanemarley

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 02:38 PM

A warm, knowledge filled welcome indeed. Though 50% of your text might as well be chinese because im not yet versed in growers lingo; its a major help none the less. Im currently debating with a grow medium; soil or no soil. i have heard soil is more forgiving for virgin grower mistakes but the yeild isnt as high. Everyone has their own opinion im sure, im just looking for the happy medium...lol
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#7 KnuckleDragger

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 03:05 PM

A warm, knowledge filled welcome indeed. Though 50% of your text might as well be chinese because im not yet versed in growers lingo; its a major help none the less. Im currently debating with a grow medium; soil or no soil. i have heard soil is more forgiving for virgin grower mistakes but the yeild isnt as high. Everyone has their own opinion im sure, im just looking for the happy medium...lol


Soil can be more forgiving as it takes a lot more to screw it up but then again it takes more work to fix it if you do. Soil can produce as well as anything, you just have to use the proper grow style. Soilless also works well but it has to be treated differently because it doesn't supply any nutes. Either can be used to good effect.
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#8 Rooster

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 12:07 PM

I like the control of soil-less myself. We went from sunshine 4 to promix bx. They have a bit different ratio of ingredients but are basically the same. The difference is the promix has vermiculite,mycorrhizae and a wetting agent. I think at a few dollars cheaper in our area. You can get all the benefits of "dirt" with better control. IMHO
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