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Mites, Yikes!

mites pests fumigation pesticide flower organic help never ending problem co-exist?

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#1 DirtMcJerk

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 08:41 AM

I have noticed that no one here really touches on the subject of mites. I know it's an embarrassing problem but I am at my wits end trying to get rid of these burgers. I have tried everything out there short of ripping everything out and starting anew from seed. Any suggestions? Help!!
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#2 xxPeacePipexx

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 08:54 AM

Hi there , sorry to hear of your epedemic borg infestation ,, Damn spider mites can be the bane of a growers existince , I always prefer to attack with an organic oil based spray when in veg stage and if need be in bloom Ill use hot shot pest strips or Dr doom bombs along with alcohol and water with soap spray .. Youll find that the borg builds resistance fast and that there life cycle is faster yet .. You may have to switch methods and products more than once to fully eliminate them .. As well watch out for the reinfestation , thats where it really pays to be on the watch as it only takes one fertile female to begin the infestation all over again .. I have alot more I could say but if you look in the pest and insect section and search under spider mite youll find a vast amount of info and elsewhere in the forum if you do a general search ,, As well I have an article about flies and the vaseline , it applies t spider mites too .........Best of luck with the war , it really can be a war and thats why I drop bombs if its needed and organics dont work ..............Peace .......PPS
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#3 mediuseA

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 08:55 AM

G'day DirtMcjerk... we DO mentin mites here hehehe we all face em some time or another... Ivermectin is one product often bandied about for mites...or borg as we call em! :lol: beneficial insects also help....there is a benny bugs book in pdf form in ma pdf thread in the sig @ bottom of ma post. muA
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#4 xxPeacePipexx

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 08:56 AM

Forgot to note , no need for embarassment , there not lice in that sense and often the lil bastards just crawl in or hitchike but 9 out of ten infestations are std related ( strain transferd disease ) .. I say any good grower will have had a few rounds in there time.. I have had about a half dozen in 23 years + .....Almost everytime it was from clones ....
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#5 DirtMcJerk

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 10:34 AM

Thanks for the input, believe it or not I have been trying to keep other people's clones out of my grow and my veg is spotless. But once I get them into flower cycle, the mites seem to pop out of nowhere even after bombing and spraying and wiping every last Borg out of there.I have entertained the thought of freezing them out by spraying th down after lights out and crankthe air-conditionin all night long in combination, maybe. Thanks though. At least there might be hope rite? Lol
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#6 bunnY

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 10:42 AM

lower the room temps as much as u can n let them get colder at nite if theyre in flower. they breed n hatch every 3-5 days and the warmer it is the faster they do it. GET SOME MIGHTY WASH and some azamax or azatrol. treat them with the mighty wash first since its a newer product which they havent all had a chance to become resistant to as most breeds have with the other available n much used products.. mighty wash fully eradicated mine in flower almost instantly and with only a very fine mist.(tho my veg is always clean cuz its a diffo location) after trying and switching up treatments like crazy for flower over the years they go away but come back- i have dogs :o anyways I have been warned DO NOT flush mighty wash into the pots or let it get on the roots..i heard someone lost a good strain to this shortly after going against the instructions on the bottle.. anyhow switch your treatments so they dont become resistant to one if the mighty wash doesnt eradicate within the first two treatments try the aza. and please dont spray them under the lights ...water on leaves is like a mirror in the growroom-bad idea. um id like to be of more help but there r only two brain cells this morning and they r at war with me until ive had my morning intake of java ;) good luck I hope u manage to rid the lil fockers (ew) the bastages! doH :wacko: :ph34r:
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#7 xxPeacePipexx

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 10:53 AM

If your relentless and ispect them leaves religiously you ll get em one way or another .. I started an article for the compassion club in my area but it never got further than this . might as well share a lil here with you with a simpe copy and paste ..PPS Spidermites and Supermites It seems as if the spidermite in its natural form is rare nowdays.Thanks to the ease of clone transfers.But even those who get infestations on there own tend to create supermites due to using the same treatment again and again.. I decided to share my experience and methods of eradication.Notice I said methods. Rarely will one method work nowdays..The most common long term weapon in the indoor grow begining , tended to be insecticidial soap sprays.Those worked initialy like other simple sprays ie. pyrethrium. Of course predatory insects and lady bugs are useful in early attacks. Problem is very few growers notice untill they are in the triple digits, usualy the ratio visible is small compared to what the naked eye cant see..Chance are good that your infested if you find more than one adult.They are easly seen due to being filled with plant sap. The grow pioneers found the comon pest strip to be effective at killing mites fast.The most common brand is Hotshot Pest strip. They are used to fumigate the growroom and it needs to be sealed for 24-48 hours.This works well if the mites have no resistance from previous growers. The average mite will fall dead in hours. Then the strip is removed for two day intervals and returned again to kill hatchlings. This is the most common low cost first step taken nowdays. I will be adding to this many methods of control from mentioned above to the latest rave Invermectin. Remember in the meanwhile to attack with diff methods and brands. Hopefully we can all help another get free of mites... I dont know about you but I cant sleep if my plants have mites.. Im sleeping well no worries here, I ll post more to this soon and my order will be based on afordability and effectivness. Part two .. Oil and suffocation Horticulture and other oils are an old stand by weapon and many are toxic to mites such as Sesame Oil . The trick with these is to dilute in the right ratio and apply evenly to all surfaces of the plant .. You need to rinse and reapply a few times usually . This will suffocate all eggs and hatchlings if done properly .. Most organic pesticides are based with oils .. Part 3 .. Another new one on the market is frequency water , it sells and thats all I can say besides others are claiming that mites too build resistance to this product fast ... Theres rumor though that this is a snake oil and gimmic , not sure myself and I do believe its really frequency treated water but I wont pay the price to even touch that ..
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#8 xxPeacePipexx

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 10:57 AM

LMAO I was going to copy n paste more about the breeding cycle and other chemicals from my attempt at an article , nevermind Bunny to the rescue .. Good advice there as well my friend .. I am outta here but Ill keep an eye out for a Victory shout in a few weeks.. Keep reading and realise that the little feckers are survivors by nature and there instincts are amazing ! PPS
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#9 DieAbetic

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 12:25 PM

Spider mites generally have a 3 day life cycle - new eggs are laid on Day 1, but don't hatch until Day 3, which is why most people can't get rid of them. Here is what I use, and has worked for sure. You can also add Sesame, Thyme and cedar oil as an anti-fungicide and anti-nat preventative. Also a wetting agent (like SM-90) or soap is good to add in (but not in late flower). In veg: Day 1 Pyrith bomb + Azatrol spray (neem oil concentrate - pretty much same this as Azamax or Organibliss) + Seaweed extract (I use Maxicrop, they don't like the smell of seaweed either) Day 2: Azatrol + Seaweed Day 3: Pyrith bomb + Azatrol + Seaweed Day 4: Azatrol + Seaweed Day 5: Distilled water + Seaweed Day 6: Azatrol + Seaweed Day 7-10: Distilled water spray In Flower, in the first month: -Same thing, but don't use pyrith bombs, just Azatrol + Seaweed for 3-7 days. In Flower, in the last month: Rosemary brew + Seaweed for a week. You can either get rosemary essential oil, or just simmer fresh rosemary with distilled water (this is what I do). Also not proven to be 100% safe, I wouldn't use in last two weeks. Distilled water spray or completely dunk the plant/buds in distilled water if you are using this anywhere near harvest "Beneficial bugs" - can be used as a preventative but WILL NOT work in the majority of infestations. Personally I wouldn't waste my time or money on them unless they are preventative. Hot Shot Pest Strips - work excellent, but are dangerous to the health with vapors settling on the plants. Should not be used in the last month of flower. If you must use, please foliar spray after with distilled for several days. Or just dunk the whole plant in distilled afterwards. Also, under absolutely NO circumstances should they be used for plants that are in a closet or within the same air circulation system as people living. If your plants are in your house, do not use this. There is evidence the chemical used is connected to cancer and other respiratory and nervous system illnesses.
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#10 Dudz

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 12:45 PM

If you are still in veg stage and you've tried everything you have and you're tired of dealing with the little bastards... 1-2 treatments with Floramite will eradicate them. Floramite is very expensive, but it works and it goes a long ways. Some grow stores will sell it in smaller volumes, such as by the fluid oz. Do not use this product in flower cycle.

Another more organic solution that I use is called OxiDate. It is made for killing mold and mildew (@ 100:1), but at higher concentrations (40:1) it also kills bugs ...including spider mites. This product is also not cheap but it goes a very long way. Myself and two other people ordered a 2.5 gallon jug and we split it three ways. This can safely be used at any time you wish, even right before harvest (MOD edit - NO it is not. Smoking is different from ingestion, the chemicals in that and many of the same product are harmful. See my post below. THERE ARE NO PRODUCTS THAT ARE SAFE TO SPRAY ON CANNABIS UP UNTIL DAY OF HARVEST)

Edited by DieAbetic, 15 February 2012 - 01:52 PM.
NO. Peroxyacetic Acid and Hydrogen Dioxide ARE NOT safe up until harvest. Them are harmful when smoked. They are listed as "non harmful" for fruits/veggies that are washed and have a protective layer. It is different when smoked.

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#11 bunnY

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 01:35 PM

Spider mites generally have a 3 day life cycle - new eggs are laid on Day 1, but don't hatch until Day 3, which is why most people can't get rid of them. Here is what I use, and has worked for sure. You can also add Sesame, Thyme and cedar oil as an anti-fungicide and anti-nat preventative. Also a wetting agent (like SM-90) or soap is good to add in (but not in late flower).

In veg:
Day 1 Pyrith bomb + Azatrol spray (neem oil concentrate - pretty much same this as Azamax or Organibliss) + Seaweed extract (I use Maxicrop, they don't like the smell of seaweed either)
Day 2: Azatrol + Seaweed
Day 3: Pyrith bomb + Azatrol + Seaweed
Day 4: Azatrol + Seaweed
Day 5: Distilled water + Seaweed
Day 6: Azatrol + Seaweed
Day 7-10: Distilled water spray

In Flower, in the first month:
-Same thing, but don't use pyrith bombs, just Azatrol + Seaweed for 3-7 days.

In Flower, in the last month:
Rosemary brew + Seaweed for a week. You can either get rosemary essential oil, or just simmer fresh rosemary with distilled water (this is what I do).

"Beneficial bugs" - can be used as a preventative but WILL NOT work in the majority of infestations. Personally I wouldn't waste my time or money on them unless they are preventative.

Hot Shot Pest Strips - work excellent, but are dangerous to the health with vapors settling on the plants. Should not be used in the last month of flower. If you must use, please foliar spray after with distilled for several days. Or just dunk the whole plant in distilled afterwards. Also, under absolutely NO circumstances should they be used for plants that are in a closet or within the same air circulation system as people living. If your plants are in your house, do not use this. There is evidence the chemical used is connected to cancer and other respiratory and nervous system illnesses.

had forgot to mention the sm-90 as a good preventative, kewl u added alot more good info on them, and the hotshots i love for the summer it keeps flies from finding their way in there too..lots og great ideas in your post- happY gardening to you n cheers -bunz

LMAO I was going to copy n paste more about the breeding cycle and other chemicals from my attempt at an article , nevermind Bunny to the rescue ..

Good advice there as well my friend .. I am outta here but Ill keep an eye out for a Victory shout in a few weeks.. Keep reading and realise that the little feckers are survivors by nature and there instincts are amazing ! PPS

lol thx for the mention and lots of good info you posted here for dude too, between u me and the next post under you i think he should have them about covered for sure! hope so anyway (the lil fockers r dastardly beasts arent they :o )
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#12 DieAbetic

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 01:50 PM

NO DUDZ! DO NOT use those products up until harvest. They are NOT safe for on cannabis and smoking. Cannabis is not the same as fruits/veggies, and smoking is much different than ingestion. DO NOT DO THAT. Cannabis does not have protective layers like many fruits/veggies. That product is an unlisted product (still being tested) and is known to be hazardous.

"A new study published in the "The FASEB Journal" and led by a team from the University of California, Davis, points that hydrogen peroxide (or other oxidants) in cigarette smoke turn the healthy lung cells to cancerous ones. Tobacco industry could make healthier cigarettes by removing these chemicals, while lung cancer treatments would find new methods."

Although hydrogen peroxide and other oxides are listed as allowed for tobacco growing up to harvest (including OxiDate) - the residue has been proven to cause health issue and there is a big fight to stop tobacco farmers from using this kind of product near harvest.

NO PRODUCT IS SAFE FOR CANNABIS UP UNTIL HARVEST. ABSOLUTELY NONE. DON'T BELIEVE THE PRODUCT COMPANY WHEN THEY SAY THIS. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. DON'T SPREAD MISINFORMATION (*edit* ok that was a bit ironic. *slapface*). I REPEAT, DO NOT FOLIAR SPRAY BUDS WITH THIS OR ANY OTHER PRODUCT NEAR HARVEST. (*edit* my bad for being and ass. Dudz nor anyone else deserved this kind of action. I am very cautious and obviously passionate about patients. I don't want anything on medicine for any patients. Even if the amount is low, I don't want it - especially with little to no info on smoking effects for all these chemicals. Which is why I think there are no products that are actually "safe" for cannabis when smoked. Nevertheless, kind of a dick move from me this morning. My bad.)
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#13 Dudz

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 02:03 PM

I stand corrected.
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#14 HD96

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 06:08 PM

Mighty Wash worked 4 me :oldhippy:
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#15 xxPeacePipexx

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 06:15 PM

Another addition to the web here of spider mite warfare hehe


Hotshots active killing ingredient is Dichlorvos ( 2,2 dichlorovinyly dimethyl phospate )

This chemical evaporates rapidly and breaks down once its in the air . Its main source of take down with the spider mite and other insects is by attacking the nervous system .

The active ingredient Dichlorvos is actually used more in the food industry than you may care to know .. I first learnt this while working in a food processing plant . I questioned the local pest control technician for answers regarding this chemical and its common use . Found out it was sprayed regularly in our facility ..

I have used these with no regrets as mites always give the worst form of regret when they beat the grower . I also always made sure to seal the enviroment for the first three days of use and slowly I allow the ventilation in the next week to return to its full operation . This allows for the hatchlings to be attacked as well by fumes ..

I do always advise that when using this method that one throws the old strips away after a week as they are not as effecient by this time . As well you may leave them but they have very little vapor left to offer so youll need to buy a second set , yes I said set . Its best to use two to a 12x12 area from my experience if you want total knockdown . The second round will ensure that the remainder that hatch are killed as well .. This is where many people fail with these as well as insuring that its done right in a sealed enviroment ..

I am not one to say to do this or not , your decision with your grow but I will state that this is the least found pesticicde with lab testing due to its rapid evaporation rate .. As well I learnt of using these from Vets I worked under for eliminating parasites such as chigger mites with reptiles and there enviroments .. Vets still advise using this when all else fails or the animals health is in jeopardy due to blood loss ..

Just one last note , the warning on the label about food storage must be , Idiots would other wise put these in there grains and flour to stop weavils and we all know how the idiots tend to be without precautionary statements lol PPS
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Working as a Hydro store tech has its perks and with it comes alot of responsibility when educating others .. I have been asked alot about this old spider mite combat weapon and exactly how it works along with the precautions one should know about the chemical involved . This product manufacturer and its competitors have made sure that pest strips are becoming rapidly available through greenhouse and horticulture suppliers .. Sad to say they sell them with no information or directions due to legalities and such

I am not on one side of the fence about the use of this and will not argue the pros and cons of Hot Shot Pest strips and there active chemical , but I will post a link here of info I have printed for others .Theres enough debate elsewhere on this subject , just google it . I hope this sheds some light on the subject and offfers one more education about this method and its risks . Its best to know the fact before you act in this situation ......Potsnob


http://www.atsdr.cdc...?id=596&tid=111





Highlights

Dichlorvos is an insecticide which is used to control insects primarily in storage areas and barns. It can affect the nervous system where it may cause nausea and vomiting, restlessness, sweating, and muscle tremors at high levels. Dichlorvos been found in at least 3 of the 1,430 National Priorities List sites identified by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).
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What is dichlorvos?

Dichlorvos is an insecticide that is a dense colorless liquid. It has a sweetish smell and readily mixes with water. Dichlorvos used in pest control is diluted with other chemicals and used as a spray. It can also be incorporated into plastic that slowly releases the chemical.
Dichlorvos is used for insect control in food storage areas, green houses, and barns, and control of insects on livestock. It is not generally used on outdoor crops. Dichlorvos is sometimes used for insect control in workplaces and in the home. Veterinarians use it to control parasites on pets.
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What happens to dichlorvos when it enters the environment?
  • Dichlorvos enters the environment during its manufacture and use, from landfills, and from accidental spills during transport and leaks from storage containers.
  • It evaporates easily into the air, where it is broken down into less harmful chemicals.
  • It will dissolve in water, where microorganisms can break it down.
  • It takes about 24–36 hours for half of the chemical to be broken down in water.
  • Dichlorvos does not appear to accumulate in plants, fish, or animals.
top
How might I be exposed to dichlorvos?
  • The general population is not likely to be exposed to dichlorvos.
  • It has been found on some fruits, vegetables, and grain, but washing and processing destroys the dichlorvos.
  • People who live near a hazardous waste site containing dichlorvos could be exposed by breathing contaminated air or touching contaminated soil.
  • Workers who manufacture the chemical or use it are likely to be exposed.
  • People whose homes have been sprayed with dichlorvos could be exposed by breathing contaminated air or touching surfaces where dichlorvos was applied.
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How can dichlorvos affect my health?

The major effect of dichlorvos is on the nervous system. Studies on people who were exposed to dichlorvos by breathing air in the workplace containing low levels of dichlorvos have not shown any harmful effects. Animal studies have shown that breathing high levels can cause nervous system effects.
Ingesting large doses may cause nausea and vomiting, restlessness, sweating, and muscle tremors, while very large doses may cause coma, inability to breathe, and death. Animal studies have also shown effects on the nervous system when animals drank water or ate food containing dichlorvos.
It is not known whether dichlorvos can affect reproduction or cause birth defects in people.
Animal studies have not reported effects on reproduction or birth defects when animals were exposed to dichlorvos.
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How likely is dichlorvos to cause cancer?

It is not known whether dichlorvos causes cancer in people. A study in rats and mice reported that rats had an increase in cancer of the pancreas and in leukemia, and female mice had an increase in stomach cancer after they were fed dichlorvos for 2 years.
The Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) has determined that dichlorvos may reasonably be anticipated to be a carcinogen. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has determined that dichlorvos is possibly carcinogenic to humans. The EPA has determined that dichlorvos is a probable human carcinogen.
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Is there a medical test to show whether I've been exposed to dichlorvos?

There is a general test that can be used to determine if you have been exposed to a group of insecticides, including dichlorvos. This test measures the activity of an enzyme called acetylcholinesterase in the blood. However, it does not specifically show exposure to dichlorvos.
Specific tests are available to identify dichlorvos or its breakdown products in your urine. These tests aren't available at most doctors' offices, but can be done at special laboratories that have the right equipment.
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Has the federal government made recommendations to protect human health?

The EPA requires that spills or accidental releases into the environment of 10 pounds or more of dichlorvos be reported to the EPA.
The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) has set a permissible exposure limit of 1 milligram dichlorvos per cubic meter of air (1mg/m3) for an 8-hour workday, 40 hour workweek.
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Glossary

Carcinogen: A substance with the ability to cause cancer.
CAS: Chemical Abstracts Service.
Ingest: To eat or drink something.
Insecticide: A substance that kills insects.
Leukemia: Cancer of the blood-forming organs.
Milligram (mg): One thousandth of a gram.
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References

Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR). 1997. Toxicological Profile for Dichlorvos. Atlanta, GA: U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, Public Health Service.
top

Where can I get more information?

If you have questions or concerns, please contact your community or state health or environmental quality department or:
For more information, contact:
Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry
Division of Toxicology and Environmental Medicine
1600 Clifton Road NE, Mailstop F-62
Atlanta, GA 30333
Phone: 1-800-CDC-INFO · 888-232-6348 (TTY)
Fax: 1-770-488-4178
Email: <a href="mailto:cdcinfo@cdc.gov">cdcinfo@cdc.gov
ATSDR can also tell you the location of occupational and environmental health clinics. These clinics specialize in recognizing, evaluating, and treating illnesses resulting from exposure to hazardous substances.
Information line and technical assistance:
Phone: 888-422-8737
FAX: (770)-488-4178
To order toxicological profiles, contact:
National Technical Information Service
5285 Port Royal Road
Springfield, VA 22161
Phone: 800-553-6847 or 703-605-6000
Disclaimer
All ATSDR Toxicological Profile, Public Health Statement and ToxFAQs PDF files are electronic conversions from paper copy or other electronic ASCII text files. This conversion may have resulted in character translation or format errors. Users are referred to the original paper copy of the toxicological profile for the official text, figures, and tables. Original paper copies can be obtained via the directions on the toxicological profile home page, which also contains other important information about the profiles.
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#16 bunnY

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 08:02 PM

hey thanks for taking the time to mention that about the hotshots cuz i have used them in growroom and also aorund the house in summer and i do have kids 3 dogs and a cat so its benefical info and thanks for posting

Another addition to the web here of spider mite warfare hehe


Hotshots active killing ingredient is Dichlorvos ( 2,2 dichlorovinyly dimethyl phospate )

This chemical evaporates rapidly and breaks down once its in the air . Its main source of take down with the spider mite and other insects is by attacking the nervous system .

The active ingredient Dichlorvos is actually used more in the food industry than you may care to know .. I first learnt this while working in a food processing plant . I questioned the local pest control technician for answers regarding this chemical and its common use . Found out it was sprayed regularly in our facility ..

I have used these with no regrets as mites always give the worst form of regret when they beat the grower . I also always made sure to seal the enviroment for the first three days of use and slowly I allow the ventilation in the next week to return to its full operation . This allows for the hatchlings to be attacked as well by fumes ..

I do always advise that when using this method that one throws the old strips away after a week as they are not as effecient by this time . As well you may leave them but they have very little vapor left to offer so youll need to buy a second set , yes I said set . Its best to use two to a 12x12 area from my experience if you want total knockdown . The second round will ensure that the remainder that hatch are killed as well .. This is where many people fail with these as well as insuring that its done right in a sealed enviroment ..

I am not one to say to do this or not , your decision with your grow but I will state that this is the least found pesticicde with lab testing due to its rapid evaporation rate .. As well I learnt of using these from Vets I worked under for eliminating parasites such as chigger mites with reptiles and there enviroments .. Vets still advise using this when all else fails or the animals health is in jeopardy due to blood loss ..

Just one last note , the warning on the label about food storage must be , Idiots would other wise put these in there grains and flour to stop weavils and we all know how the idiots tend to be without precautionary statements lol PPS
Attached Thumbnails

  • Posted Image
Working as a Hydro store tech has its perks and with it comes alot of responsibility when educating others .. I have been asked alot about this old spider mite combat weapon and exactly how it works along with the precautions one should know about the chemical involved . This product manufacturer and its competitors have made sure that pest strips are becoming rapidly available through greenhouse and horticulture suppliers .. Sad to say they sell them with no information or directions due to legalities and such

I am not on one side of the fence about the use of this and will not argue the pros and cons of Hot Shot Pest strips and there active chemical , but I will post a link here of info I have printed for others .Theres enough debate elsewhere on this subject , just google it . I hope this sheds some light on the subject and offfers one more education about this method and its risks . Its best to know the fact before you act in this situation ......Potsnob


http://www.atsdr.cdc...?id=596&tid=111





Highlights

Dichlorvos is an insecticide which is used to control insects primarily in storage areas and barns. It can affect the nervous system where it may cause nausea and vomiting, restlessness, sweating, and muscle tremors at high levels. Dichlorvos been found in at least 3 of the 1,430 National Priorities List sites identified by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).
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What is dichlorvos?

Dichlorvos is an insecticide that is a dense colorless liquid. It has a sweetish smell and readily mixes with water. Dichlorvos used in pest control is diluted with other chemicals and used as a spray. It can also be incorporated into plastic that slowly releases the chemical.
Dichlorvos is used for insect control in food storage areas, green houses, and barns, and control of insects on livestock. It is not generally used on outdoor crops. Dichlorvos is sometimes used for insect control in workplaces and in the home. Veterinarians use it to control parasites on pets.
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What happens to dichlorvos when it enters the environment?
  • Dichlorvos enters the environment during its manufacture and use, from landfills, and from accidental spills during transport and leaks from storage containers.
  • It evaporates easily into the air, where it is broken down into less harmful chemicals.
  • It will dissolve in water, where microorganisms can break it down.
  • It takes about 24–36 hours for half of the chemical to be broken down in water.
  • Dichlorvos does not appear to accumulate in plants, fish, or animals.
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How might I be exposed to dichlorvos?
  • The general population is not likely to be exposed to dichlorvos.
  • It has been found on some fruits, vegetables, and grain, but washing and processing destroys the dichlorvos.
  • People who live near a hazardous waste site containing dichlorvos could be exposed by breathing contaminated air or touching contaminated soil.
  • Workers who manufacture the chemical or use it are likely to be exposed.
  • People whose homes have been sprayed with dichlorvos could be exposed by breathing contaminated air or touching surfaces where dichlorvos was applied.
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How can dichlorvos affect my health?

The major effect of dichlorvos is on the nervous system. Studies on people who were exposed to dichlorvos by breathing air in the workplace containing low levels of dichlorvos have not shown any harmful effects. Animal studies have shown that breathing high levels can cause nervous system effects.
Ingesting large doses may cause nausea and vomiting, restlessness, sweating, and muscle tremors, while very large doses may cause coma, inability to breathe, and death. Animal studies have also shown effects on the nervous system when animals drank water or ate food containing dichlorvos.
It is not known whether dichlorvos can affect reproduction or cause birth defects in people.
Animal studies have not reported effects on reproduction or birth defects when animals were exposed to dichlorvos.
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How likely is dichlorvos to cause cancer?

It is not known whether dichlorvos causes cancer in people. A study in rats and mice reported that rats had an increase in cancer of the pancreas and in leukemia, and female mice had an increase in stomach cancer after they were fed dichlorvos for 2 years.
The Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) has determined that dichlorvos may reasonably be anticipated to be a carcinogen. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has determined that dichlorvos is possibly carcinogenic to humans. The EPA has determined that dichlorvos is a probable human carcinogen.
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Is there a medical test to show whether I've been exposed to dichlorvos?

There is a general test that can be used to determine if you have been exposed to a group of insecticides, including dichlorvos. This test measures the activity of an enzyme called acetylcholinesterase in the blood. However, it does not specifically show exposure to dichlorvos.
Specific tests are available to identify dichlorvos or its breakdown products in your urine. These tests aren't available at most doctors' offices, but can be done at special laboratories that have the right equipment.
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Has the federal government made recommendations to protect human health?

The EPA requires that spills or accidental releases into the environment of 10 pounds or more of dichlorvos be reported to the EPA.
The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) has set a permissible exposure limit of 1 milligram dichlorvos per cubic meter of air (1mg/m3) for an 8-hour workday, 40 hour workweek.
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Glossary

Carcinogen: A substance with the ability to cause cancer.
CAS: Chemical Abstracts Service.
Ingest: To eat or drink something.
Insecticide: A substance that kills insects.
Leukemia: Cancer of the blood-forming organs.
Milligram (mg): One thousandth of a gram.
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References

Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR). 1997. Toxicological Profile for Dichlorvos. Atlanta, GA: U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, Public Health Service.
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Where can I get more information?

If you have questions or concerns, please contact your community or state health or environmental quality department or:
For more information, contact:
Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry
Division of Toxicology and Environmental Medicine
1600 Clifton Road NE, Mailstop F-62
Atlanta, GA 30333
Phone: 1-800-CDC-INFO · 888-232-6348 (TTY)
Fax: 1-770-488-4178
Email: <a href="mailto:cdcinfo@cdc.gov">cdcinfo@cdc.gov
ATSDR can also tell you the location of occupational and environmental health clinics. These clinics specialize in recognizing, evaluating, and treating illnesses resulting from exposure to hazardous substances.
Information line and technical assistance:
Phone: 888-422-8737
FAX: (770)-488-4178
To order toxicological profiles, contact:
National Technical Information Service
5285 Port Royal Road
Springfield, VA 22161
Phone: 800-553-6847 or 703-605-6000
Disclaimer
All ATSDR Toxicological Profile, Public Health Statement and ToxFAQs PDF files are electronic conversions from paper copy or other electronic ASCII text files. This conversion may have resulted in character translation or format errors. Users are referred to the original paper copy of the toxicological profile for the official text, figures, and tables. Original paper copies can be obtained via the directions on the toxicological profile home page, which also contains other important information about the profiles.
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#17 xxPeacePipexx

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 08:25 PM

Happy to share the info Bunny , I ask others too as well when this chemical is mentioned , facts are facts and truth be told we dont know if its more carcinogenic than smoke from combustion , better to end all possible arguements with facts as well .. Oh The nature of the beast hehhe and not the spider mite hahah
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#18 GoophyPhucker

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 09:10 PM

Good info , Thanks You PPS
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#19 DieAbetic

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 09:21 PM

Thanks PPS. You are right, the facts are the facts. To each their own to decide. You all obviously know which side I fall on here haha. Should have put some up, much appreciated. Sorry GP, I guess I do get a little presumptuous when I decide something is dangerous or not for me (darn that argumentative spirit!). Didn't mean to hurt anyone's feelings, I just try to keep patients safe.
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#20 strider

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 09:39 AM

As do we all!
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#21 xxPeacePipexx

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 10:06 AM

Thanks PPS. You are right, the facts are the facts. To each their own to decide. You all obviously know which side I fall on here haha. Should have put some up, much appreciated.

Sorry GP, I guess I do get a little presumptuous when I decide something is dangerous or not for me (darn that argumentative spirit!). Didn't mean to hurt anyone's feelings, I just try to keep patients safe.


Mighty kind of you Diabetic , I just wanted to post the facts on the matter so others here can make the right decision for them and there patients as well . Never is it offensive to me when someone may argue on safety and health . I agree fully with being carefull and cautious . I have never had any of my meds test positive due to the Pest strips . But again I will never tell anyone to do this or not too .

Working as a Hydro tech I had to get to the bottom of this possible health hazzard .. As well I was always curious asa teen as to WTF those perforated panel wood looking cardboard hangers where that I saw in gramas house lol . I think many of us remember seeing the pest strips around homes ..

In conclusion I will say dichlorvos has never been found in my lab tested meds and yes I have had to use the strips recently or shut down temporarly due to the borg and its nature .. Wanted to note that a lab tech told me that Dichlorvos will often not be found on a sample when retesting due to its rapid evaporation

Thanks again Dia but I never took offense and I feel and understand where your at as well .. I dont like man made chemicals at all myself but I too have to make sure my patients have meds and not webs lol ...

Everyone stay safe and dont eat pest strips hahha .PPS


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#22 DieAbetic

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 11:37 AM

I know PPS, I was just worried about my earlier comment to Dudz to be honest. It was quite confrontational. No one actually complained about it, but I just felt bad later when I read it over. Could have been nicer about it.... Cheers all :bong:
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