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Triacontanol - Bigger Buds, Organically!


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#26 Your Grandfather

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 12:37 AM

Where's the beef?


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#27 MCOne

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 08:22 PM

InI am not sure where it is idren. Been busy with some projects, here is a preview: Attached File  welcomeToCA.jpg   138.8KB   61 downloads However, here is a new photo of the girls, all together again, under the 1000w Hortilux Eye with 1500ppm CO2. Day 38 flower. Looks like they are doing ok.. ;) Attached File  tcnDay38.jpg   254.23KB   89 downloads Attached File  tcnDay38-2.jpg   116.25KB   80 downloads :bong:

Edited by MCOne, 11 February 2012 - 08:42 PM.

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#28 Your Grandfather

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Posted 12 February 2012 - 02:58 AM

B) nice and frosty. dankness soon come mon

#29 MCOne

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 05:22 PM

Day 51 Began flush last night, I don't want to jinx anything but, this might be the best crop of my life... Flush started last night at day 50. Harvest photos coming soon to a thread near you.... :bong:
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#30 Your Grandfather

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 11:00 AM

Just a small technical note - you can only fix Nitrogren. Everything else is solublized, or, broken down into smaller parts so that the smaller critters can have at it. Jah

#31 Desiderata

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 06:12 PM

I'm on board. I do have a question. How many drops did it take to get to the ppm? I know it will differ with the water supply, but just an idea per litre/gallon And how does this differ from making an alfalfa tea? http://www.happybact...-stage-product/

Edited by Desiderata, 25 February 2012 - 06:15 PM.

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#32 MCOne

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Posted 27 February 2012 - 06:54 PM

The environmentally friendly products and concentrations offered by happybacteria are the easiest way to obtain the specific ingredients we want to work with. However, once you have a grow going, great soil thriving with life and an active soil food web, fixing and solublizing bacteria, it is best to feed the plants with compost teas like you are asking about. In general, to make a tea you will need a few things: High power airpump and airstone 5 Gallon bucket with 5 gallons of filtered, dechlorinated water 5 gallon mesh paint strainer or pantyhose Add 1 gallon of the water to the bucket, if you are unsure whether the water still has chlorine add 1Tbl unsulphured molasses first, stir until disolved (or shake in a jar with water seperatley then add to bucket) Turn on the airstone and wait 30 minutes :bong: Then add into your mesh bag or panty hose: 1cup of Earth Worm Casting or Alaskan Humisoil and 1Tbl Bat Guano or Fish emulsion depending on nutrient requirment and plant stage. Aerate for 72 hours for pelleted guano, 48 hours for powdered guanos Stir once a day, cover the bucket loosely so the water doesn't evaporate and to block light. If your lid fits tight, your mixture might become anerobic, so drill a ventilation hole in tight fitting bucket lids. Apply 1 hour after lights on. Simply pull the pantyhose or mesh back out of the bucket, but do not squeeze it!! Add the other 4 gallons of water to the tea and pH the solution. Re-stir it well before each filling of the watering can. Once you run low there will be sediment at the bottom of the bucket and the last few cans will be stronger concentration. Pour into your watering can slowly to leave the sediment in the bucket or you may burn your plants! Also, apply the last 2-3 cans to the plants which need the most nutrients! Reciepe can be altered depending on supplies, nutrient demand, potting medium, and plant variety. I use a heavily ammended soil medium with compost teas to feed my crop instead of a Grow/Bloom nutrient and have never been happier.

Edited by MCOne, 28 February 2012 - 01:24 PM.

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#33 MCOne

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Posted 27 February 2012 - 07:00 PM

It was roughly 2 drops per 1.5 large glasses of 0ppm water to achieve the 2ppm solution. I say roughly because I pour it out onto my veg plants and add more 0ppm water to the glass until I get it from 10ppm or so down to 2ppm.

For those starting with poor water distilled water might be a consideration for the TCN.

I'm on board.

I do have a question. How many drops did it take to get to the ppm? I know it will differ with the water supply, but just an idea per litre/gallon And how does this differ from making an alfalfa tea?

http://www.happybact...-stage-product/


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#34 MCOne

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Posted 27 February 2012 - 07:04 PM

When I apply fixers and solublizers I add 1 drop of each per ounce of plain water and soak the exposed roots of cuttings in the solution for 30 minutes before transplanting into soil for the first time. Also, you will want to transplant just before lights off because it takes a good 6 hours or so for colonization.

The brassinolides do work, but we are not sure on the amounts or times in which to apply them to cannabis yet.

Let YGF kill a few more plants, then I will try out whatever he finds that doesnt kill them, and if it works, I will post what I did :) Or you can too, it is an open experiment :)

Peace :)

Nice test MCOne, fascinating stuff here. I looked at the Happy Bacteria site ( http://www.happybacteria.com/store ) . I have been using the alfalfa tea lately and know triacontanols benefits to be true. Impressive even, I use it now at transplant and it seems I get all the benefits of the triacontanol with no slowed growth of a re-pot. I like the scientific approach of having a specific PPM to work with as you have done here. There are lots of other interesting products on that site as well. NPK, Iron, sulfur, Zinc fixing bacteria, VAM and others. What has really caught my eye is the Super Hbz which contains brassinolides. http://www.happybact...plant-promoter/ I have done a little research on this and it seems universally agreed that those little brassinolides will improve your crop substantially. (20% + -). Id love some type of feed chart for these products to understand their uses better. Do you or anyone has more info on these products? .... Rock on MCOne, Ill be here doggie paddling in the deep end watching and learning.


Edited by MCOne, 27 February 2012 - 07:13 PM.

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#35 indoh209

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Posted 01 March 2012 - 11:37 AM

Hey guys whats good!? Well is every one on here familiar with Humboldt county's snow storm ultra?? Well I heard if you use a ppm meter to check a fresh opened bottle of that stuff you can make your own using triacontanol and RO water. I also heard when using triacontanol you should use polysorbate 20. Polysorbate 20 helps dissolve the triacontanol. Polysorbate 20 is also used as a detergent and an emulsifier, so what does that mean??? Well don't detergents make good wetting agents? Sure do! So if you have a bottle of snow storm ultra check the ppms in there and mimic it the best you can with triacontanol and polysorbate 20, but you don't need to much from either of the two. Remember that less is more!!! Of course Humboldt County wont tell you what is exactly in their bottle, how else would they make money?? Found a guy on ebay who sells a 5 gram kit of 90% triacontanol for $22.99 w/free shipping. You could also find polysorbate 20 on there, a 4oz bottle for $3.50 + $2.50 shipping and handling. thats $29.00 altogether and will last!!!! Pretty sure amazon has it also if you guys arent comfortable buying from ebay.... Thought I should mention after I found this thread... not 100% sure its pure organic goodness though..... shrugsmiley.gif Hey mc1 thanks for sharing your info!!!!

Edited by indoh209, 01 March 2012 - 11:52 AM.

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#36 indoh209

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Posted 01 March 2012 - 02:00 PM

check this product out for organics:

http://www.alibaba.c...ertilizers.html

Edited by indoh209, 01 March 2012 - 02:03 PM.

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#37 Subs419

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Posted 01 March 2012 - 05:07 PM

Good Info!!! I don't usually play with much foliar feed,but I have 2 auto's that I popped for fun.Maybe I'll use this and start a journal. Much Respect.


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#38 Your Grandfather

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Posted 01 March 2012 - 10:05 PM

I don't think you can find this on Amazon yet, next week but not now :) bawahahahahaha we don't need no stinkin sm-90 or sm-20 or even regular scented dawn.

#39 indoh209

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Posted 01 March 2012 - 11:34 PM

Whoever wants more info about 1-triacontanol, check this out:

http://www.skk-banja...rmulations.html


couldn't find any on "triacontanol"..

Edited by indoh209, 01 March 2012 - 11:50 PM.

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#40 indoh209

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Posted 01 March 2012 - 11:36 PM

Let me know if it helps. That is all I am trying to do gramps.
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#41 Your Grandfather

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Posted 02 March 2012 - 02:05 AM

Thanks man, I appreciate the efforts. Maximum respect. I've got all the Triacontanol I need and then some. Not a salt but a concentrate liquid that I use in my grows.

#42 indoh209

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Posted 02 March 2012 - 12:42 PM

Well ok I understand that know one wants to throw any random stuff in their soil.. but I still see a lot of people throw advanced nutrients in their soil!!! Lol.. I think ima try feeding my rabbits some alfalfa, and collect their poo. My friend and I breed rabbits and so I guess we can try feeding them alfalfa collect the poo and compost it. How does that sound?
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#43 Your Grandfather

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Posted 02 March 2012 - 01:56 PM

Well ok I understand that know one wants to throw any random stuff in their soil.. but I still see a lot of people throw advanced nutrients in their soil!!! Lol.. I think ima try feeding my rabbits some alfalfa, and collect their poo. My friend and I breed rabbits and so I guess we can try feeding them alfalfa collect the poo and compost it. How does that sound?


Rabbit manure is the absolute best organic fertilizer you can use, but it is really hot, so you want to buffer it with something like cedar shavings, a lot of them. When you think you have enough - add some more. You can't have too much, but you certainly can have not enough.

The triacontanol which is released when you brew an alfalfa tea is quite small as a percentage, and depending on all of the variables involved in brewing the tea, the end results can vary and often do. But the fact remains an alfalfa tea which is properly brewed is a big hammer to have in the tool kit.

If you have the expertise and the technology you could extract triactontanol from bees wax, and that would be, imho, a very kewl product to be in possession of.

fith

#44 MCOne

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 11:19 PM

Day 60 since flower, 56 days since application of super TCN. Results; vegetative growth time was reduced and flower size was increased a little across the board. The question was whether or not the quality of the medicine would be effected. I think it might be the frostiest crop yet.. Quality increased while yield increased as well, pretty cool stuff if you ask me, so I am adding it to the arsenal for good. Here is the crop which will be replacing the first TCN crop as they are harvested. And of course these new girls got 2ppm of super TCN from happy bacteria applied at day 4 of flower again. I believe the girl in the photo is The Flav. Attached File  tcnDos.jpg   161.31KB   43 downloads Here are some shots of the first trees to fall, Valley OG at day 60 and 3% amber, We really need smell-o-vision for this one! Attached File  valleyday60-4.jpg   56.33KB   50 downloads Attached File  valleyday60-3.jpg   45.2KB   43 downloads Attached File  valleyday60-2.jpg   43.92KB   38 downloads Attached File  valleyday60.jpg   72.17KB   45 downloads The cherry AK-47 is next and she always had pink and purple branches, but by day 60 her leaves and flowers have turned the same color.. Thinning out a few fans leaves stained my titanium coated trimmers in no time at all. Attached File  cherryAK47.jpg   69.05KB   43 downloads Wait till you see the hash she makes :bong: Peace

Edited by MCOne, 05 March 2012 - 12:21 PM.

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#45 indoh209

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 02:43 AM

Did the triacontanol help influnece color change? Or is it just the genetics of the strain taking effect?
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#46 Desiderata

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 11:23 AM

Holy sugar shack! No wonder you get dripping trichomes on your plants! I have a feeling my next grow is going to be even more fun than the last! This magical mix is getting added to my mix.
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#47 MCOne

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 12:18 PM

This is purely genetic.
But color is also effected by temperature and flush. During RO flush I do not pH the water, locking out nutrients, and forcing the plant to show what color it is under the green dominant pigment. The colder the temperatures the more color you get typically, and being a spring grow the temps never got above 76F under the 1000w HPS. But I can assure you that Cherry AK will remain pink and purple all year long, in clone, vegetative growth, and flowering, no matter how many nutrients you feed her. The tempertures and flush just helped bring it out, though the coldest it got during lights off was only 68F, so 8 degree temp swing. Hardly induced by cold tempertures in my opinion. :bong:

Did the triacontanol help influnece color change? Or is it just the genetics of the strain taking effect?


Edited by MCOne, 05 March 2012 - 12:31 PM.

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#48 indoh209

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 12:27 PM

Oh flushing and not ph balancing, good way for sure to lockout nutes during flush.. I heard giving your plants ice water can also influence color change. Is that true, or just a myth? You have some pretty fine buds!!
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#49 Your Grandfather

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 01:07 PM

why all the work of ph'ing water? I never ph my water. *3 gently used ph pens for sale :)

#50 MCOne

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 04:04 PM

in my experience to much temperature shock will kill the root system halting water intake and the plants will wilt and not finish
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