Jump to content



                        Please Visit Our Paid Sponsors



Photo
- - - - -

Can't Seem To Shake The Powdery Mildew.


  • Please log in to reply
31 replies to this topic

#1 estonianstoner

estonianstoner

    Seasoned Member

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPip
  • 26 posts
  • LocationPacific Northwest

Posted 11 December 2011 - 05:08 PM

It was about a week after I threw my very first plant into flower that I caught a few speckles of powdery mildew beginning to form on a few fan leaves. The same day I went to my local hydro shop and picked up SNS244 and sprayed every plant that I had thrown into flower. Since I had put my first plant into flower I put a few others in as well and now I have a total of 10 plants flowering. The biggeset plants and the ones farthest into flower have all showed signs of powdery mildew. I stay vigilant and it's a constant battle fighting this mildew. The owner of the hydro store told me the most important thing I could do is pull outside air in to get rid of the mildew. The SNS damages my leaves and buds a bit and so I switched to the old skim milk and water technique hoping that it would naturally absorb whatever it is in the milk to further help fend off the mildew. But since the milk spray I still see mildew spots. I have also gotten a dehumidifier in the room. I also keep the bedroom door open for more air flow I took prior exhaust fan and ducted it to bring in air from a vent in my roof. The duct fan is pretty weak. 6 inch regular inline duct fan that I got from Home Depot for about 30 bucks. It doesnt do much but I figure its better than nothing. I switched the fan yesterday and I saw new mildew spots today. I also moved the 1000w up several inches to keep the tops of the plants cooler. Someone told me that the heat produced by the HPS when its too close to the plants can help breed the nasty mildew. I just feel like I am losing the evergoing battle with this evil evil fungus. Nothing seems to be working. I live in Washington and the house is not the best built. I put the plants into flower at about the same time that the weather got cold and wet and didn't have any air intake into the room. I'm assuming that's how I got the mildew in the first place but I just don't know. I keep things clean and take lots of precautions. I still have an exhaust fan running as well as the door now being open so I have airflow. I'm just feel as if powdery mildew is getting the best of me. If anyone can help with this constant struggle I would be more than happy. I will probably give it another milk and water spray down when lights go out tonight except with a lot less milk. Last time it left spots of shiny dried milk on the leaves. Any input or personal experience shared would be much appreciated. I have a few recent pictures posted on my grow journal if anyone wants to take a look at what I got goin on in there. Thanks GP. I'd be lost without you.
  • Tokecrazy, jangel, OniusOniusOnius and 2 others like this


                        Please Visit Our Paid Sponsors



#2 Dudz

Dudz

    Freak of Nature

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 943 posts
  • LocationOregon

Posted 11 December 2011 - 05:26 PM

Hydrogen Peroxide will kill it. Generally comes as 3% in a brown bottle at your local store. Mix @ 50/50 with water and spray.

Better yet... if you can get a hold of some OxiDate, hose them down real good with that.
It is peroxide-based, organic OMRI listed, and can be used right up to harvest with no bad residue, tastes, or smells. As an added bonus, mites don't like it either. I use the stuff myself, and I swear by it.


Always spray with lights off, and crank up the fans afterward to help them dry before the lights come back on..

Edited by Dudz, 11 December 2011 - 05:27 PM.

  • Tokecrazy, jangel, KaK and 3 others like this

#3 estonianstoner

estonianstoner

    Seasoned Member

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPip
  • 26 posts
  • LocationPacific Northwest

Posted 11 December 2011 - 05:45 PM

Hydrogen Peroxide will kill it. Generally comes as 3% in a brown bottle at your local store. Mix @ 50/50 with water and spray.

Better yet... if you can get a hold of some OxiDate, hose them down real good with that.
It is peroxide-based, organic OMRI listed, and can be used right up to harvest with no bad residue, tastes, or smells. As an added bonus, mites don't like it either. I use the stuff myself, and I swear by it.


Always spray with lights off, and crank up the fans afterward to help them dry before the lights come back on..



Ive never heard of OxiDate. From the looks of it it seems a bit pricey. Do you order online or find it at your local hydro store? I have heard of a hydrogen peroxide wash before hanging them to dry though except with a much smaller ratio of peroxide to water. Jorge Cervantes actually has a video on YouTube about it.


But thanks for the suggestion about the peroxide and water spray. Ill make sure to look up on that some more. Id be happy to try anything that doesnt leave all that residue like milk does.Thanks again.
  • Tokecrazy, jangel, teddys head and 1 other like this

#4 Dudz

Dudz

    Freak of Nature

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 943 posts
  • LocationOregon

Posted 11 December 2011 - 06:59 PM

Ive never heard of OxiDate. From the looks of it it seems a bit pricey. Do you order online or find it at your local hydro store?


It is manufactured/distributed as an agricultural product so not very many grow stores carry it, you'd have to call around and see.
You can order it online in a pre-diluted 32oz spray bottle, or in containers starting @ 2.5 gallons and up. I went in with 2 other people and we split up a 2.5 gallon container. You dilute it 100:1 for PM, so it goes a very long ways. Not so expensive when you calculate that out.

It also kills bad bugs (including mites) when mixed @ 40:1. stanandollie.gif

Edited by Dudz, 11 December 2011 - 07:02 PM.

  • Tokecrazy, jangel, KaK and 1 other like this

#5 mediuseA

mediuseA

    Honored Retired Staff

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2842 posts

Posted 12 December 2011 - 12:33 AM

http://www.greencure.net/

Proven Effective

Developed by renowned plant pathologist, Dr. Ken Horst of Cornell University, GreenCure® the potassium bicarbonate-based fungicide is the safer alternative to harsh chemical fungicides.

In more than 200 university trials, GreenCure® has been proven to be comparable to or better than other fungicides.

GreenCure® has been proven effective against powdery mildew, rose black spot, anthracnose, downy mildew and many other plant diseases.

The GreenCure® formula has been successfully used for 12 years in large-scale organic agriculture and commercial growing applications. It is used in some of the finest orchards, vineyards, and vegetable farms as well as public gardens and greenhouses.


muA
  • Tokecrazy, jangel, teddys head and 1 other like this

#6 eloquentsolution

eloquentsolution

    Alchemist Extraordinare!

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 579 posts
  • Locationoregon

Posted 12 December 2011 - 12:42 AM

it is great to find sonething to kill PM, but you also need to resolve the issues that causes it to begin with. the two issues that will surely result in PM....poor air circulation and low light. solve those problems and be rid of pm for good.
  • Tokecrazy, jangel, Turf and 3 others like this

#7 mediuseA

mediuseA

    Honored Retired Staff

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2842 posts

Posted 12 December 2011 - 02:07 AM

ES has pointed out the elephant in the room! :) muhahaha

Yes...you also need to consider the conditions th@ has led to this pm problem...and how to clean and sterilize the room

before I go on...another option to greencure is serenade....it dissolves on contact and I believe is a bio living bacteria or sommat th@ will linger awhile or spread as needed to take on more mold :welcome: hehehe

muA
  • Tokecrazy, jangel, teddys head and 1 other like this

#8 jangel

jangel

    Bridge Builder

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 22352 posts

Posted 12 December 2011 - 08:39 AM

Also your humidity is a vital part of the picture...add a de humidifier and this will also help. J
  • Tokecrazy and Blue61 like this

#9 estonianstoner

estonianstoner

    Seasoned Member

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPip
  • 26 posts
  • LocationPacific Northwest

Posted 12 December 2011 - 01:37 PM

I have a dehumidifier. I have air coming in. I have air going out. I have an a/c. I dont know what 'low light' you are talking about but I have a 1000w sitting in a 5 by 5 space hovering about 2-3 ft from my plants.There is nothing more that I can do to get more 'airflow.' I keep everything clean. Clean hands when you walk in. Immediate outer layers of clothing come off before entering the room. I keep tools sanitized. I clean things before bringing them into the room. I dont know what else I could possibly fuckin do aside from chopping them all down and starting over. This PM bullshit is really starting to get under my skin. I am also hesitant to use any fungicides that are sold on the shelf. It just damages my leaves and Im not down for that. If anyone has any advice that isnt something I have already tried that would be great. ...Frustrated...
  • Tokecrazy, jangel and KaeaneabisSativas like this

#10 jangel

jangel

    Bridge Builder

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 22352 posts

Posted 12 December 2011 - 02:12 PM

I have a dehumidifier. I have air coming in. I have air going out. I have an a/c. I dont know what 'low light' you are talking about but I have a 1000w sitting in a 5 by 5 space hovering about 2-3 ft from my plants.There is nothing more that I can do to get more 'airflow.' I keep everything clean. Clean hands when you walk in. Immediate outer layers of clothing come off before entering the room. I keep tools sanitized. I clean things before bringing them into the room. I dont know what else I could possibly fuckin do aside from chopping them all down and starting over. This PM bullshit is really starting to get under my skin. I am also hesitant to use any fungicides that are sold on the shelf. It just damages my leaves and Im not down for that. If anyone has any advice that isnt something I have already tried that would be great.


...Frustrated...


I here your frustration and we are all trying to help...please respect us as we respect you.

We will keep brainstorming as we do, and hopefully something will help you.

Here is one post I found on google...



Copper-Based Fungicides
  • Copper and copper compounds can inhibit the growth of fungus, mold and mildew. By applying a copper-based fungicide, you can treat flower and vegetable infestations. Copper-based fungicides are not as toxic as many chemical fungicides and are often preferred by organic gardeners. Copper-based fungicides are generally liquids that you spray on the affected areas of the plant, tree or garden.



Read more: Cure for Fungus or Mildew on Plants | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/...l#ixzz1gLfgFTK1


  • Tokecrazy, Dudz and Blue61 like this

#11 Dudz

Dudz

    Freak of Nature

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 943 posts
  • LocationOregon

Posted 12 December 2011 - 02:19 PM

The duct fan is pretty weak. 6 inch regular inline duct fan that I got from Home Depot for about 30 bucks. It doesnt do much but I figure its better than nothing.


Is this the only actual intake/exhaust fan you have? I am a little confused - can you describe your duct/venting system a little better?
Those duct booster fans are not capable of supplying sufficient airflow for a 5x5 room, even with other fans operating within the room, a/c, dehumidifiers ...and even the door open. It sounds like you need a more powerful duct fan.


How tall is the space? Is it a closet? Assuming a 9' ceiling, you have 225 cubic feet of space in there. Given the "rule of thumb" of 2x the airflow to space ratio, you should have an exhaust fan capable of at least 450cfm to properly move enough air in and out of the room.

I grow in a 5x5 closet as well. Links are in my signature.
  • Tokecrazy, jangel and Blue61 like this

#12 eloquentsolution

eloquentsolution

    Alchemist Extraordinare!

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 579 posts
  • Locationoregon

Posted 12 December 2011 - 02:43 PM

Is this the only actual intake/exhaust fan you have? I am a little confused - can you describe your duct/venting system a little better?
Those duct booster fans are not capable of supplying sufficient airflow for a 5x5 room, even with other fans operating within the room, a/c, dehumidifiers ...and even the door open. It sounds like you need a more powerful duct fan.


How tall is the space? Is it a closet? Assuming a 9' ceiling, you have 225 cubic feet of space in there. Given the "rule of thumb" of 2x the airflow to space ratio, you should have an exhaust fan capable of at least 450cfm to properly move enough air in and out of the room.

I grow in a 5x5 closet as well. Links are in my signature.


dudz is right on. also, i have a circulation fan on each pot (at the foot of each plant) in my room. i grow in a basement where sometimes, if the weather gets cold i must turn off outside air. the dehu and circ fans must take over.

another thought.... where are you drawing outside air? check the foliage around your intake. blackberries are carriers of PM as well as most other deciduous foliage. if yes is the answer. remove the guilty products, filter your intake, which will surely mean an upgrade to your inline fan which is nearly useless.
  • Tokecrazy, jangel, Dudz and 1 other like this

#13 MJACTIVIST

MJACTIVIST

    Newbie

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPip
  • 31 posts

Posted 13 December 2011 - 11:50 AM

Didnt see anyone else say it yet, but if i missed it and i repeating someone, sorry. U should try to keep ur lights out and lights on temps very similar. If the temps fluctuate too much a dew will from, allowing PM to get a hold. I suggest using ACT and using it as a foliar undiluted. The tea will form a bio-barrier that wont allow the PM spores to take a hold. I second Medi said Green Cure works great and wont burn or effect any plants in a bad way. Hope this helped L8 MJ
  • jangel and Blue61 like this

#14 DieAbetic

DieAbetic

    In the clouds...

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1676 posts

Posted 13 December 2011 - 12:34 PM

You are into flower already so I would go with what everyone else is saying, the milk and/or peroxide. However, next time you can get Spectricide. It is at your local home depot. It is bad stuff, systemic, and you DEFINITELY don't want it in a flowering plant. But if you spray it on a vegging plant and the surround pot it can prevent mildew (I may also do a milk spray once in awhile during flower... just to make sure). I have to say again.... it is very dangerous. It is not good for the plant. Do not ever use this in flower, it is systemic and ingestion/smoking is extremely hazardous. To be honest I don't even do this myself with my last 2 grows, because I am now living in a new place that is very dry and has lots of ventilation. And I have been going organic, and this stuff is definitely some chemical spray. But if it is needed, now you know. Good luck!
  • jangel and Blue61 like this

#15 Guest_PurpleHaze66_*

Guest_PurpleHaze66_*
  • Guests

Posted 13 December 2011 - 01:28 PM

I had issues with PM and I found a couple things out. Once you have it, its around and can pop up whenever you put your guard down.

1) Only way to keep it away is by enviromental controls, Temp, Humidity must be inline at all times day and nite. I was completely amazed at how much plants disapate water at nite, and if the lights are off it does not evaporate as quickly, and as above people have stated dew will be there and you wont catch it.

2) Must keep up a good preventive maintenance plan for the plants. I spray weekly with a Neem / kelp mix, stop 2/3 weeks prior harvest. I also use silicone based supplement to help build up the plants immunities.

3) I cut off leaves, flowers with it if its not to bad. You can wash with water and HO, there is a video of it on utube My link

I am sorry I cannot help cure you pains now but this is things I have done and I am now harvesting plants with no PM

Good luck

#16 KaeaneabisSativas

KaeaneabisSativas

    Master Kae: Novice Canna-suer, Rookie Horticulturist...

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2489 posts
  • LocationThe Only Place I'm Wanted or Accepted

Posted 13 December 2011 - 01:51 PM

I have a dehumidifier. I have air coming in. I have air going out. I have an a/c. I dont know what 'low light' you are talking about but I have a 1000w sitting in a 5 by 5 space hovering about 2-3 ft from my plants.There is nothing more that I can do to get more 'airflow.' I keep everything clean. Clean hands when you walk in. Immediate outer layers of clothing come off before entering the room. I keep tools sanitized. I clean things before bringing them into the room. I dont know what else I could possibly fuckin do aside from chopping them all down and starting over. This PM bullshit is really starting to get under my skin. I am also hesitant to use any fungicides that are sold on the shelf. It just damages my leaves and Im not down for that. If anyone has any advice that isnt something I have already tried that would be great.


...Frustrated...


I have issues with environmental controls in ways that encourage mold to grow... An OLD, OLD House, built in the 1800's, that I live in.
Anyways I have been using a product with very good prevention of any molds or fungus growth at all. Well, that and the fact I have an O.C.D. with cleanliness as well.
It's a Neem Oil based mutli-purpose preventative soap called Fungicide-3... It's a Miticide/Fungicide/Pesticide soap sold at almost every place they sell gardening equipment, in a green bottle, w/ purple accents -trigger/nozzle.

Maybe give that, and the advice of a couple others already noted above me,
-and get your temps/humid under control. The only way left to eliminate the mold, will end up hurting the plants. But to end this shortly, YOU HAVE TO STARVE THE MOLD, in order to eliminate it... What I mean by starve, is your have to eliminate the feeding environment the mold needs, ie moisture & warm temps. But to starve it would also mean you have to starve your little one at the same time.
You are in flowering, so I would also say, drop down your humidity level (The most relevant ingredient to promote/prevent mold), to something lower then the mold needs to live in...
I run a 30/35% humidity level in my veg room, and a 20'ish% in my flower room, but I also water more often then a majority of others.


I wish you the best of luck though man... Sorry to hear of the issues... Good thoughts your way buddy... I'm sure you can get the answer you need here...

Edited by KaeaneabisSativas, 13 December 2011 - 03:05 PM.

  • jangel and GeeGee like this

#17 peacepipe

peacepipe

    Has many harvests

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1309 posts

Posted 13 December 2011 - 02:38 PM

I hear your pain: we live surrounded by PM and have had many plants affected by it, indoors and out. It usually rears its ugly head most in spring and autumn, with the cool nights, loads of dew, and warm days. Indoors, correct climate control is key: temp, humidity, extraction, intraction, fans to move the air and plants, just as everyone else has said. I don't believe I've ever managed to cure a plant once it caught PM, but have managed to minimize spread with milk or H202 sprays every few days (in flower, however, if the plant catches pm when it's small, we cull it, cause I don't believe we can cure it) What really works the absolute best is planting resistant strains, ie Sativas (which is our preferred smoke, so we're ok with that!) Sorry if you're not hearing, " Use this, it will cure for sure and it's safe to use in flower!", cause it's just not so easy. What you can hope to do is, by maintaining proper climate and spraying with milk or H202 (careful not to use too much, it can to burn)every few days or week, you can stop it spreading. You don''t like the milk, but the plant does, and the residue it leaves is harmless, and mostly goes away, and you could spray with clean water at the end to rinse it off. Good luck with this battle, it's a bitch! peace
  • jangel, GeeGee, KaeaneabisSativas and 1 other like this

#18 estonianstoner

estonianstoner

    Seasoned Member

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPip
  • 26 posts
  • LocationPacific Northwest

Posted 14 December 2011 - 12:20 AM

My humidity stays at about a 35% in the flower room with that dehumidifier on. The only intake into the room is the 6in ducting booster fan and there is another pushing air out. I have been trying so hard to keep the PM at bay until I can harvest to be able to upgrade a few things that I just can't do at the very moment, ie. get a better intake/exhaust system. The more and more I try to get rid of this stuff by trying new things the more it seems be the fact that I have poor intake/exhaust which sucks cause its not necessarily the cheapest thing to fix. I was also curious about my 1000w being too close to my plants? How important is that when it comes to PM? I keep the temp drop from day to night to about 5-7 degrees if possible. I try to keep it at a 70 but sometimes might drop to 69. But during the day I can feel just a slight bit of heat when I hold my hand over the tops of my plants even though the room stays about a 75-76. I do appreciate the advice from all. Forgive me if I came off as a bit of an asshole. PM is no fun. Ill have to just keep spraying on a regular basis to fend them off temporarily until I can make major changes.
  • Blue61 likes this

#19 Dudz

Dudz

    Freak of Nature

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 943 posts
  • LocationOregon

Posted 14 December 2011 - 01:33 AM

Your light shouldn't be too close @ 2-3 feet away. Hold your arm upside down under the light and see how close you can get it before your arms starts getting hot. Test it like a baby bottle. Find out how close you can hold your arm under there for 5 mins and not have it get uncomfortable from the heat. Your plants are the same - that's your safe distance.
  • Blue61 likes this

#20 KaeaneabisSativas

KaeaneabisSativas

    Master Kae: Novice Canna-suer, Rookie Horticulturist...

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2489 posts
  • LocationThe Only Place I'm Wanted or Accepted

Posted 14 December 2011 - 06:05 AM

My humidity stays at about a 35% in the flower room with that dehumidifier on. The only intake into the room is the 6in ducting booster fan and there is another pushing air out. I have been trying so hard to keep the PM at bay until I can harvest to be able to upgrade a few things that I just can't do at the very moment, ie. get a better intake/exhaust system. The more and more I try to get rid of this stuff by trying new things the more it seems be the fact that I have poor intake/exhaust which sucks cause its not necessarily the cheapest thing to fix. I was also curious about my 1000w being too close to my plants? How important is that when it comes to PM? I keep the temp drop from day to night to about 5-7 degrees if possible. I try to keep it at a 70 but sometimes might drop to 69. But during the day I can feel just a slight bit of heat when I hold my hand over the tops of my plants even though the room stays about a 75-76.

I do appreciate the advice from all. Forgive me if I came off as a bit of an asshole. PM is no fun. Ill have to just keep spraying on a regular basis to fend them off temporarily until I can make major changes.

I'll say I have spent $30.00 bux on my fans. I have some mini box fans, all from wallie world. I didn't go out and get those fancy inline fans that cost a fortune, I would suggest go to a local store and grab a $5 fan from there. It just sounds like you need to increase air movement. Not even a new intake system, but just a better way to move your air. You do run a temperature that will promote vigorous growth. Here, read some info I have on the subject.
Mold isn't one of those things that just disappears, but it does just appear... But, it doesn't just appear out of nowhere's, yet it's everywhere's...
No worries mate, we all get defensive and a little aggressive when it comes to our kids and their health...

Edited by KaeaneabisSativas, 14 December 2011 - 06:06 AM.


#21 OrangeSkunk

OrangeSkunk

    Enthusiast

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 240 posts

Posted 14 December 2011 - 09:44 AM

serenade dissolves the pm and has the ability to translocate, its an organic bacterial solution. otherwise you have to make the environment unhospitable to the pm, so like a low ph spray like baking soda with some soap and oil or something will help it stay on the leaves and not allow the pm to come back, you will have to wash it off with water. hydrogen peroxide seems to be another way to wash off the mildew. keep the environment clean, feed lightly (dont give the pm much to eat) and sop up any excess water asap. make sure there isnt any dirt or plant matter for the pm to hide out in. and no stale air! lots of fresh clean air cycle in and old wet nasty air pushed out. when washing off the pm be careful not to spread it, i like to take a paper towel and place it where it can catch all the excess spray, then wipe it off, then spray the surrounding area with one of the many options. it's not gone, but my daily battle with it almost is... really just had a few spots to deal with each day. still in battle, but i think the war will be won with these tactics.
  • KaeaneabisSativas and Blue61 like this

#22 OrangeSkunk

OrangeSkunk

    Enthusiast

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 240 posts

Posted 14 December 2011 - 09:47 AM

oh i also feed silica, when the plant heals i believe it can fill the space with silica, it also makes the plant tissue stronger and harder for the mold to penetrate.
  • KaeaneabisSativas and Blue61 like this

#23 Dudz

Dudz

    Freak of Nature

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 943 posts
  • LocationOregon

Posted 14 December 2011 - 02:31 PM

hydrogen peroxide seems to be another way to wash off the mildew.


Peroxide doesn't just wash it off, it kills mildew and mold. Peroxide is mother nature's bleach.
  • Blue61 likes this

#24 DOUBLEN

DOUBLEN

    Medicine Maker

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 374 posts
  • LocationORYGUN COAST

Posted 14 December 2011 - 03:41 PM

If the humidity varies more then 10-15 percent or the temperature varies more then 10-15 percent it creates the environment for the PM and DM to bloom. So it is more important to keep a steady environment then say just low humidity. Also downy mildew ( read up on this too) is another problem that is mistaken for PM and it acts a bit differently than PM. All of us have combated PM and it is an on going struggle. Marijuana actually has a symbiotic relationship with Molds and Fungus as it encourages decompostion of the plant as it dies thus feeding the next generation of "seeds". Just because we grow sensimilla ( seedsless pot) dosent change this relationship. If you spray anything on your plants make sure the lights are NOT on and that will limit your leaf damage. Although if leaves are infected with PM or DM and you kill it using a spray of any type the scar tissuse is revealed( leaf damage). So it isnt the treatment ( product) damageing the leaves it is the damage caused by the fungus. Alot of time you have PM or DM and you only see it with the naked eye when it blooms. So again you see the damage after treatment. So dealing with this problem isnt a one shot deal and its cured, it isnt somewhere you end up but rather a path your have to travel on and here are the key compnents: 1.) Steady environment 45 -55 % humidity and 70-80 temerature consistant. 2.) Sulphur burner good as a general santilizer for room and plants. 3.) H2O2 rinse good or other treatments like Green Cure but only with lights off. I like to burn sulphur on a regular basis in all my rooms to prevent PM and othe rmolds and fungus. After a treatment with sulphur I rinse with H2O2 keeping my room as steady enviromentally as I can. I also will use GreenCure as part of maintainence routine. Rinse and repeat until problem solved and under control. If you have PM at harvest spray the plant well with H2O2 ( watered down food grade 35% best) before harvest to prevent spreading the spores everywhere. Hope this helps....
  • OrangeSkunk likes this

#25 DOUBLEN

DOUBLEN

    Medicine Maker

  • Seasoned Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 374 posts
  • LocationORYGUN COAST

Posted 14 December 2011 - 10:39 PM

One other thought, but has to do with what was already mentioned, is during the day alot of time the humidity goes way down because of the heat from the lights. So it is important you set the humidity level at night not so low that in the day you get a 15-20% change. That information was one of my last adjustments when gettin my own PM problem under control. I wrote a post here about the problem at one time mabey you could find that and help get your head around managing this issue.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users