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Need Organic Guidance~Soil Mix Options


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#1 Hobo

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Posted 25 January 2008 - 03:35 PM

Organic growing is what i have the least amount of experience with. I wanted someone to tell me what they add to their soil mix's for different stages, and what other organic fertilizers you may use. I know whats out there and i have an idea of what i want to use but ide like to follow someone else's method exactly.
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#2 Mogie

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Posted 25 January 2008 - 07:21 PM

I just add vermiculite to my soil and Fox Farm's 3 stage additivies.
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#3 midgradeindasouth

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Posted 25 January 2008 - 09:17 PM

That is a good question Hobo. I think we need Video and Shaman to comment on this as well. A recipe of some sorts would be very helpful. I know Shaman uses fish and seaweed emulsions. They seem to be about as organic as you can get.
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#4 Mogie

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Posted 25 January 2008 - 09:40 PM

1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix (3.8 cu ft) 8 cups Bone Meal - phosphorus source 4 cups Blood Meal - nitrogen source 1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source 3-4 cups dolomite lime -calcium source & pH buffering 1 tsp fritted trace elements 4 cups kelp meal. 9kg (25 lbs) bag pure worm castings - Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit 1-2 weeks before use.
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#5 SHAMAN

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Posted 25 January 2008 - 10:25 PM

Let me see here. For soil I use, Pro-mix potting soil and perlite. At like week 2-3 I start feeding with Fish emulsion. After I start feeding I leach my soil every week or two to stop build ups. Thats about it. I like to keep it simple.
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#6 Mogie

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Posted 25 January 2008 - 10:34 PM

That was in FAQ
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#7 Hobo

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Posted 26 January 2008 - 01:45 AM

Mogie are you suggesting that i havent gone through the FAQ? cmmmmmon, i want some direct feedback on this one. all of this is subjective, and i want to hear what all you guys use.

That was in FAQ


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#8 HeadPawthead

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Posted 12 March 2008 - 09:15 PM

Hey Hobo...one of the great things about going organic is, (just like growing pot) there are many recipes that will work. The trick is to find the smallest recipe that works for you, meaning a low cost, low maintenance, extremely large harvest.

What works for me, and why does it work?

Well to be honest, I look for the best growth pattern, vs the lowest possible cost. Cost is always second though, if I can add something and see a benefit, I'm all for it. I just cant see spending $25.00 for nutes on a grow, when $2.37 will do a better job.

One trick I've learned is during vegging, I try to water my plant(s) along the sides of the pot, rather than the center, this forces better root growth, as they have to seek out the nutrients.

The setup:
Wally-world sells a soil called hyponex, it's very clean, and exremely cheap, only $1.66 for a 20lb bag. To this I add about a 35-40% mix of perlite.
I'd rather too much than too little perlite. To this I add some Steamed Bone Meal for vegging. This should take you all the way through vegging, but if needed, you can always top feed em some more bone meal, or you can even brew a tea, I've done both. Either way works fine.
I also use sparingly some maxicrop liquid seaweed during vegging.
This helps avoid stress and promotes healthy root growth, you can read about this here.

When you get ready to flower, you want to switch from bone meal to Super Swell Bat Guano. You can top feed it, make a tea, or even mix it into your soil on your last transplant, prior to flowering.

My plants look as bushy as any hydro grow, and I am only flowering in a 7x7x8 inch pot.

I will tell you that each and every day, I see huge growth patterns on all plants, and when I dont see a growth spurt, it's time to leach my soil again.
I hope this helps you.
Peace
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#9 Hobo

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Posted 14 March 2008 - 08:42 AM

Thanks a lot video, thats exactly what i was looking for, and actually along the lines of what i had in mind, only i was thinking worm castings for more N in veg. I think I'm going to follow this method exactly, and see how it works for me.
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#10 HeadPawthead

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Posted 14 March 2008 - 08:52 AM

Hobo, you can add whatever you like, I've just found this works well for me. So no need for me to add anything at all.

Just keep an eye on the leaves, and you'll be fine.
I will tell ya, I am more than impressed with the rate of growth.
Peace

Thanks a lot video, thats exactly what i was looking for, and actually along the lines of what i had in mind, only i was thinking worm castings for more N in veg. I think I'm going to follow this method exactly, and see how it works for me.


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#11 ice#1

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Posted 14 March 2008 - 09:09 AM

i use all the bat plus sea-bird guano worm castings kelp meal and alot others i'll start with my seedling mix i mix 1 teaspoon of fox farms marine cuisine for my vegging plants when i transplant them out of the part cups i start the seeds in. which when i start seeds or clones i mix in 1 teaspoon of jamican or indoneasion bat guanos since roots need p to grow big and strong and these 2 guanos are higher in p the n. then they go into 6 square pots for veg which i use the fox farms marine cuisine at the above mentioned streangth. the whole time i mix the organics in the bottam couple of inches of soil. then when i go to flower i mix in 1 teaspoon of each the kelp meal, marine cuisine, jamican guano and indo bat guano's. this crop is be flower in 1 1/2 gallon pots the last time i flowered them in 3/4 gallon pots yes i know there small but i was putting clones straight to flower in a sea-of-green perpetual harvest so i'm not sure about the new pots since i have'nt grown in them yet but i'm getting close to starting the flowering cycle as soon as the last few sensi indoor mix seeds show there sex. reason i use so lil nutes is so i can learn about when the plants use up all the nutes the adjust acordingly with the next set of clones that go in i prefer to try and let them use up all nutes a couple weeks before harvest so i don't have to flush. other stuff is added as teas here and there if and when i think the plants can handle them hope this helps ICE#1
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#12 Hobo

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Posted 16 March 2008 - 12:51 PM

cool thanks a lot ice
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#13 Guest_diesel dude_*

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Posted 16 March 2008 - 01:23 PM

this is great stuff. so far ive only been using straight pro-mix. i liked the results i was getting so decided to keep it simple. some of the info in here helped explain some stuff so i think its time for me to start messing around.

#14 Hobo

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Posted 17 March 2008 - 09:04 AM

Right on, however i wanted to follow someone else's method like a recipe, to see if i can get the same results, to test another variable like my wide ranged hi/low temps in my room.

BTW- your new avatar is sweeeet

Hobo, you can add whatever you like, I've just found this works well for me. So no need for me to add anything at all.

Just keep an eye on the leaves, and you'll be fine.
I will tell ya, I am more than impressed with the rate of growth.
Peace


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#15 Mr.Moonbiscuit

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Posted 23 February 2009 - 02:24 PM

get a five gallon bucket fill 3/4 way with dirt add 3 of the bait shop buckets oh worms one night crawler 2 redworms throw your veggies and what not that you eat on top, you know have organic soil lol
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#16 ice#1

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Posted 23 February 2009 - 02:41 PM

hobo if you can find any of the old growbooks by ed or mel if i rember right they had a few differant ones listed in the book
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#17 anothertime

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Posted 21 December 2009 - 11:08 PM

2 cubic- feet Miracle Grow Organic Choice (green bag) 3.8-4.0 cubic feet- Promix/Sunshine Mix #4 (If not, it can be substituted with Peat Moss) 1 Cup Miracle Grow Blood Meal 1 Cup Miracle Grow Bone Meal 1/2 cup dolomite lime (1 cup if you're using peat moss) 30% perlite (chunky perlite is preferable) Mix the soil well and just plant or transplant into it. Here are the key points I will make. It doesnt matter much which way you go with it, What matters is that the soil is mixed with the peat based mix to create about a 60/40 mix 60% peat 40% soil. Then you add your perlite and amendments. I usually use 3.8 cf bales of any of the above mentioned peat based mixes, With 2cf of ocean forrest or mg etc! I recommend chunky perlite, I also recommend using ocean forrest over mg organic, I had fungus gnats with mg organic and once I mixed the mix, and went to transplant the babies and pull out a handful of soil and it was loaded with maggots, So I no longer use MG organic. 1-1&1/2 cup blood meal 1-1&1/2 cup bone meal 1/2-3/4 cup dolomite lime, Or pulverized limestone. Depending on how your strain feeds if its a heavier feeder go with the 1&1/2 blood and bone meal if its a light feeder then use the 1 cup. If your vegging less than 30 days 3 gal bags are fine. If you plan to veg for 30 or more you need to use 5 gal bags or else you could be nute deff during flower. If you want to add castings thats fine, I recommend just top coating with it during the latter stages of veg before the flip. You can use sweet if you would like also, I'm kinda tired and high so I will go back over this post and thread later and if you have any questions feel free to ask. On a side note I have used everyone of the above mentioned products all with similar success mg organic is the only one which can bring along fungus gnats etc. THIS IS TAKEN FROM ANOTHER SITE,i have never tried this!!!! hope this helps someone!!!
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#18 I.Tokesmore

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 05:30 PM

I like to add dolomite to any peat mix.
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#19 jaybyrd

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 05:54 PM

My mix might be hard to replicate...lol. It all starts as lawn clippings (organic, no fertilizers on my lawn), leaves from all of my trees, Horse Manure from mine and my neighbors Horses, green waste (veggies, coffee grounds, etc.) from the kitchen, Chicken Manure and any other vegetation that can be composted from the yard. First, I have the land to do this and the resources available to make a TON of soil. I've been doing this for a lot of years and growing my weed with it for several years as well. I have tried Fox Farms soils and other 'mixes' but nothing warranted a change from using my own. I make huge piles on a spare acre of my land, use my tractor to flip, rototill the piles once a month. Every time I flip and till it I soak with water (leaches out salts from Horse manure and keeps the entire pile moist and cooking) and let it cook for another month. I do scrape the ground a bit while I'm flipping which adds some soil from previous piles into the mix, I kind of consider it like a 'starter', sort of like a yeast. I feel it helps get the good stuff growing in the pile. The piles are full of redworms and earth worms aiding in the breakdown. I do this all through the year and after a year of 'working' the pile it's completely ready for my vegetable garden or my MJ grows. When I use it for MJ I add at least 30% perlite for drainaige. I typically do not have to feed anything through veg and only start feeding when they 'ask' for it during flower. Anyway...that's how I do it :) If your interested in how it turns out, take a look at my journal and the recent harvest shots :)
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#20 Guest_hillbillybob_*

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Posted 10 September 2010 - 10:28 AM

try using subcool's supersoil. the mix has definitely been tried , tested, and proven. dont see how you can go wrong.

#21 popefull27

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Posted 16 June 2011 - 03:38 PM

Im surprised nobody has mentioned alfalfa meal, it contains plants hormones in the same way that maxicrop does. My soil mix is a 25 percent peat moss, 25 percent perlite, 25 percent compost, and 25 percent worm castings, I also mix a small amount of maxicrop fertilizer, alfalfa meal, and bone meal. Ive recently started using airpots though and with airpots it seems as the really is no need for perlite, and instead use 1 third peat moss, 1 third compost, and 1 third worm castings
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