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Methods For Increasing Potency


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#51 holyflower

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Posted 09 January 2011 - 10:52 AM

Excellent job MCone! Seriously, to me, this is what its all about. The results are just a cool bonus, but going through the process and actually testing out some of these theories is BADASS. Awesome job you scientist you! Peace and Love, MG~
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#52 envind

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Posted 09 January 2011 - 12:26 PM

Fantastic info, and nice results. But I have to say that you "lesser" version is still a mighty fine example of bud porn. I gotta go smoke something, after that. Thanks for the info!
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#53 pappy666

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Posted 09 January 2011 - 08:01 PM

Thanx for the educational post.
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#54 MCOne

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 05:02 AM

initial smoke report on the UV exposed sample is that it is very stoney Very very strong medicine, you feel perma grin starting after 1 hit The UV exposed Attached File  uv.jpg   155.36KB   113 downloads Attached File  uvb.jpg   110.49KB   104 downloads
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#55 MCOne

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 02:46 PM

Round 1 of testing goes to the UV exposed VK I am using the non exposed today and its just not quite as medicinal.. Attached File  nouv.jpg   154.96KB   72 downloads
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#56 JCChronic

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Posted 17 January 2011 - 03:15 AM

This has been an exceptonal study and I am going to try it. A couple of questions for you MC One: If I remember right you started on day 35 of flower, would you start earlier next time? and would you do the progressive exposure again or just turn them on for 6 hours straight next time?
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#57 DieAbetic

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Posted 17 January 2011 - 03:38 AM

Awesome McOne. I'd like to tell you that your thread led me to a 30 min de-tour in Petco as I looked for UVB lights. They didn't seem to have the one you have, but they did have some that could plug into regular sockets (almost looked like CFLs). Expensive, $40-50 per bulb depending on which on you got (straight UVB or UVB mixed with some other light, I think daylight spectrum). Could be interesting to see though... what do ya think - is it worth the money or just get the one like yours? *edit* Found it much cheaper on their web site. http://www.petco.com...at=OnSiteSearch Something like that maybe? That is 25w, there is a 50w and also a Florescent mix one (see: similar products on the page). I'l have a 600w here soon, I'm trying to decide what kind of UVB light to test with it (especially since light will be going through glass on CoolTube). Thanks again for all the info!!
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#58 MCOne

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Posted 17 January 2011 - 08:02 PM

I would start as soon as you see resin forming on your plants.

To be honest I had to put the glass back on my air cooled lights and I had to unhook the UVB bulbs because the winter is over and temps are rising again.

If I were to implement this again I would just run 50% metal halide light in my flowering room without glass in an open air cooled reflector for 10 of the 12 hours. You would need to raise this light up initially for new plants not to burn them!!! I experienced light burn on my plants under both the 1k HPS and 600 MH without the glass in separate spaces.

If I were to use uvb lights again I would definatley use progressive exposure.

This has been an exceptonal study and I am going to try it. A couple of questions for you MC One: If I remember right you started on day 35 of flower, would you start earlier next time? and would you do the progressive exposure again or just turn them on for 6 hours straight next time?


thanks
I would get the 20w version of the bulb you linked, or a couple of them and put one on each side of your grow
I got 1 uv10 15w T8 bulb and 1 26w uv10 CFL bulb at pet smart initially, but they were out of stock of most other bulbs...
I think they were under $20 a bulb so look for a deal! The higher the UV the better.

Awesome McOne. I'd like to tell you that your thread led me to a 30 min de-tour in Petco as I looked for UVB lights. They didn't seem to have the one you have, but they did have some that could plug into regular sockets (almost looked like CFLs). Expensive, $40-50 per bulb depending on which on you got (straight UVB or UVB mixed with some other light, I think daylight spectrum). Could be interesting to see though... what do ya think - is it worth the money or just get the one like yours?

*edit* Found it much cheaper on their web site. http://www.petco.com...at=OnSiteSearch

Something like that maybe? That is 25w, there is a 50w and also a Florescent mix one (see: similar products on the page). I'l have a 600w here soon, I'm trying to decide what kind of UVB light to test with it (especially since light will be going through glass on CoolTube). Thanks again for all the info!!


Edited by MCOne, 17 January 2011 - 08:21 PM.

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#59 MCOne

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Posted 17 January 2011 - 08:07 PM

smoke test #2 UVB VK sample is very nice, wont be trying the non uv plant again until I run out of the UV head stash
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#60 envind

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Posted 18 January 2011 - 12:06 AM

So did you decide to change your progressive schedule up, or was the last one you posted in december the final exposer time chart? I am taking notes, and scrambling to put some new toys together, got myself a new house, no more tent in the aparment!!!!
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#61 MCOne

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Posted 18 January 2011 - 01:01 AM

final schedule
minutes per hour of peak daytime light

D1: 1, 2, 3, 4, 3, 2
D2: 2, 4, 7, 10, 5, 2
D3: 4, 7, 10, 13, 7, 4
D4: 6, 10, 13, 16, 9, 6
D5: 8, 13, 16, 19, 11, 8
D6: 10, 16, 19, 22, 14, 11
D7: 12, 19, 22, 25, 17, 14
D8: 14, 22, 25, 28, 20, 17
D9: 17, 25, 28, 31, 23, 20

So did you decide to change your progressive schedule up, or was the last one you posted in december the final exposer time chart?

I am taking notes, and scrambling to put some new toys together, got myself a new house, no more tent in the aparment!!!!


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#62 intensive

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Posted 21 January 2011 - 09:10 PM

Im still waiting on my 2 repti 10.0 26w'rs to come in the mail. i have a 600 w/ new ushio bulb (just installed) and i think the combination will compliment each other nicely. I have heard to do 4 hours in the middle of your 12/12 period only. Hopefully the resin production per wattage will drastically increase and make for some pretty flowers! now i have to go get another timer, dang
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#63 OniusOniusOnius

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 09:58 PM

Good stuff MC One. Just remember that there is a proportional decrease in yield for the increase in resin when using UVB. This can be seen when growing the same clone outdoors at different elevations. The higher your altitude the less atmosphere you have to block light. The clones grown at 5000 ft. will recieve far more UVB than the clones at see level. Like you said MC the extra resin is the plant's defense... a defense from the UVB literally tearing through the leaf, stem, and bud cells causing damage. That damage combined with the plant's channeling of energy into resin production will cause a yield drop. The clones at sea level will (given reasonalbly similar conditions besides elevation) yield more & be less potent than the clones on the mountainside. Hope that helps stanandollie.gif Also, remember UVB tears through your cells too and should be turned off when you're working in the room if repeated exposures are expected.

Edited by OniusOniusOnius, 24 March 2011 - 10:52 PM.

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#64 KaK

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 10:15 PM

lol cool ive been doing it sense i learn to grow used to use just 1000 watt mh for all flowering for the same reasons i just started adding hp about 5 years ago or so. so im dead with ya for sure! might have to look at them uv lights though sounds interesting. thanks for that bro/.
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#65 MCOne

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 03:40 AM

In the grand scheme of things I believe that combining MH and HPS is ideal.
If you opt for a hood without glass for the MH you get even more UV for your investment.

Cheers bredah.

lol cool ive been doing it sense i learn to grow used to use just 1000 watt mh for all flowering for the same reasons i just started adding hp about 5 years ago or so. so im dead with ya for sure! might have to look at them uv lights though sounds interesting. thanks for that bro/.


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#66 MCOne

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 03:52 AM

Thanks for the input Onius, that is certainly applicable for those growing for weight.

Personally, I don't smoke cannabis for the act, its for the medicinal and spiritual value. I often choose concentrates as well to reduce the amount of plant material I consume. But when I do smoke I prefer high strength cannabis so little is needed. The only place on the plant where THC exists in the ball head of trichomes after secretions leave the disc cell on top of the stock. So if we can increase the amount and size of trichomes I feel we are in-turn increasing the factories for THC production and storage, resulting in an increased medicinal value.

So for farmers whose lives depend on the weight of their crop certainly go HPS, but for small independent grows where medicinal strength is the focus I feel people like me need any help they can get to increase the potency of their crop and MH of optimal light intensity certainly keeps showing itself to do that time and time again.

Good stuff MC One. Just remember that there is a proportional decrease in yield for the increase in resin when using UVB. This can be seen when growing the same clone outdoors at different elevations. The higher your altitude the less atmosphere you have to block light. The clones grown at 5000 ft. will recieve far more UVB than the clones at see level. Like you said MC the extra resin is the plant's defense... a defense from the UVB literally tearing through the leaf, stem, and bud cells causing damage. That damage combined with the plant's channeling of energy into resin production will cause a yield drop. The clones at sea level will (given reasonalbly similar conditions besides elevation) yield more & be less potent than the clones on the mountainside. Hope that helps stanandollie.gif

Also, remember UVB tears through your cells too and should be turned off when you're working in the room if repeated exposures are expected.


Edited by MCOne, 25 March 2011 - 03:53 AM.

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#67 KaK

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 07:09 AM

In the grand scheme of things I believe that combining MH and HPS is ideal.
If you opt for a hood without glass for the MH you get even more UV for your investment.

Cheers bredah.



your dead on i dont run the glass as i can realy notice the diff as u lose as least 10% of the blue so if your running the hp with added blue well your losing almost all of it gr8 thread my friend. keep up the most interesting data love it.
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#68 Transcendence

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 01:32 PM

This is a great thread MC1, I run cfl's on my seedlings and then start veg with a 70watt m/h and a 250 watt hps. Keep up the great work
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#69 bongbonghi

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 01:01 PM

I am so glad I clicked on this thread thank you MC I will be watching this one for sure.That VK with the uvb added just looks amazing...
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#70 thinkinaloud

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 11:42 AM

I am about to purchase a UVB T8. Seriously considering getting 2.0% Plants still need the T8 light but like to add UVB. In the description, the manufacturer claims 2.0% bulb will surport plant life. Thus, I need lights to be 12 hours. What would you recommend? 2.0%, 5.0% , 8.0% or stay with regular T8
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#71 MCOne

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 01:09 PM

I would only add uvb once you flower the plants, I assume you are flowering them because you mentioned 12 hours. So, If you wish to leave them on all 12 hours, well I'd get 5% bulbs instead higher values. Start with the lights a couple inches further away than usual and slowly get it closer.
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#72 thinkinaloud

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 07:00 PM

picked up a 5.0 UVB 15 watt T8 strain: Skunk #1 time: Last 3 weeks Introducing progressively at the end of the light cycle. A few before pics. The girls are plenty protected with plenty of trichomes. First exposure will be 40mins. Play it by ear from there.

Attached Files


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#73 thinkinaloud

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 11:42 AM

girls were further along than I thought. maybe less than 2 weeks left. sided with caution. "shock and see approach" dont want to damage just manipulate Two exposures two days in arow. (T8 above the skunks) 40 min and 1 hour Leaf curl was evident everywhere. Even the other side of cabinet caught some UVB. Plants are definitely shocked but not damaged too much. I didn't notice and "extra resin production" Half expecting resin results to show up in a few days. Is it best to shock the plants while trichromes are initially developing? Or best to shock after the trichromes after they have developed?
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#74 MCOne

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 07:13 PM

I'd go for less time with the bulbs further away next time Cheers Best wishes
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#75 popefull27

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 09:08 PM

From an article on 660nm red l.e.d.s,




So, if the lizard light UVB experiment works, I will be upgrading with some 660nm LEDs

You know these pictures are just from growers with hotspots caused by their l.e.d. lights and just bleached out the chlorophyll. The uvb ray is true in my opinion from what I saw on another forum, but in this case I couldnt really tell a difference from the picture on amount of trichnomes.
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