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Detecting and preventing bud rot


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#1 Mogie

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Posted 02 December 2007 - 07:09 AM

Introduction

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Budrot (Botrytis) is a very common worldwide fungus that attacks both indoor and outdoor crops under certain conditions. “Budrot” is also known as “brown rot”, “grey mold” and other names. Airborne Botrytis spores can be found everywhere, all times of the year, and will attack many different species of plants. Botrytis will attack flowers, and eventually leaves and stems.

Growers running sea of green, perpetual harvest, remote grows, outdoor, or multiple strains (each with different flowering periods) should keep an eye out for Botrytis near harvest time.


Outdoor growers need to be hypersensitive to weather conditions near harvest time. Rain, morning dew, frost and cool fall nights may increase the risk of budrot and powdery mildew.

Fully developed marijuana buds provide ideal conditions for spore germination: warm and moist plant tissues. Botrytis will initially attack
the largest and densest buds in the garden, because they provide the ideal conditions for germination. Weak plants will also be attacked rapidly.

Identifying and preventing budrot

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Budrot will infect and turn colas to mush in a matter of days and may destroy a crop in a week if left unchecked. Botrytis loves warm, and humid (50% or over humidity) conditions. Lowering humidity will slow and stop spore germination. Good ventilation and decent air circulation help prevent infection.

A grow room may smell noticeably moldy if Botrytis has attacked one or more colas. Once a cola has been infected, Botrytis will spread incredibly fast. Entire colas will turn to brown mush and spores will be produced, attacking other nearby colas.

Ventilation may spread viable spores throughout the room.

Measures to prevent budrot in the final stages of flowering:


Early veg and flower pruning of undergrowth to promote air circulation

Hepa filter room and intake air sources.
Introduce low levels of ozone into room air. Ozone is effective against pollen, podwery mildew and other airborne spores.

Lowering room humidity (warming nighttime air and venting frequently or using a dehumidifier)
Decreasing watering cycles and amounts to reduce room humidity

Large, dense colas should be periodically inspected. Brown tissues deep within the bud will smell moldy and may become liquid.

Removing fan leaves during the last few days before harvest to promote air circulation

Serenade (thanks vaaran)

"Serenade controls the following: ....Botrytis, Powdery mildew, Downey mildew..."

"Certified organic by OMRI and EPA/USDA National Organic Program, Serenade offers growers the luxury of application without weather or timing restrictions and there are no phyto-toxicity issues"

"To apply, simply spray on leaves and shoots to provide complete coverage. Best results will be had be pre-treating plants before signs of disease set it and then every week to protect newly formed foliage"

What if budrot is found?

Once budrot has been detected, the grower should isolate infected buds by removing them from the growroom immediately and harvesting the infected colas, followed by a rapid dry of the harvested colas. Take immediate steps to reduce room humidity. Afterwards, the entire crop should be carefully inspected for infection and damage.

The grower may want to harvest early if more than one rotting cola has been found. Spores may have spread and are germinating deep within other colas.

Can I salvage budrot-infected colas?

Yes. Remove the infected colas from the main room, Trim out the infection (Trim more than you can see – Botrytis often infects adjacent tissues) and quick-dry them. Re-inspect buds – they should not smell moldy.

Smoking infected buds is not recommended.
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#2 green_nobody

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Posted 03 December 2007 - 04:35 AM

right on mogie, very good one.
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#3 Guest_bud_boy_*

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Posted 04 March 2008 - 08:34 PM

great info on grey mold. I have a couple of questions: 1. Instead of serenade, how about sm-90 as a foliar spray -- it smells so much better. 2. what is the best way to quick dry?

#4 Mogie

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Posted 04 March 2008 - 08:39 PM

Yes sm-90 is a good alternative and it does smell much better. Quick dry a fan should help that.
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#5 Guest_bud_boy_*

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Posted 04 March 2008 - 08:56 PM

do the lights always need to be off for every type of foliar spray? (not just fungicides my question relates to all foliar spraying) if so, should I wait 2 hours with the fans running to turn the lights back on?

#6 Mogie

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Posted 05 March 2008 - 02:38 AM

To play it safe why not. Better to error on the side of safey and not blow out a bulb or burn the plant.
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#7 HeadPawthead

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Posted 20 May 2008 - 07:48 PM

Theres a few quick dry methods posted here, if you cant find em, gime a hollar, and I'll point you in the right direction bro. Peace
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#8 Stand_Up_Philosopher

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 12:50 PM

where would Serenade or sm-90 be available to purchase within canada. not from a site (if possible) but just like a canadian tire garden center type deal? i have sum rot problems that need immediate attention.
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#9 jangel

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 01:56 PM

I found it at my local hydro store. Let your fingers do the walking through the yellow pages....!!!
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#10 I8ntLucky_UR

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 03:41 PM

where would Serenade or sm-90 be available to purchase within canada. not from a site (if possible) but just like a canadian tire garden center type deal? i have sum rot problems that need immediate attention.


This is a close hydro store to where you are.

Homegrown Hydroponics
Ready Set Grow Hydroponics


375 Henderson Highway
Winnipeg, MB R2K 2H2
204-668-4769
Get directions
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#11 Stand_Up_Philosopher

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 06:27 PM

thanks a bunch i8ntlucky. ill be headin down there as soon as my check comes in. peace.
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#12 I8ntLucky_UR

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 07:22 PM

No problem friend anytime we can help we will try. I go to my local Hydro shop same company close to where I am. They usually have a gr8t stock of anything you might need and if in doubt give them a ring and it will be there when you get there. Take care of those buds.nailbiting.gif
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#13 barrelhse

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 09:20 PM

I posted this in the Grow Journal forum with a bit more info.

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#14 Stand_Up_Philosopher

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 09:32 PM

No problem friend anytime we can help we will try. I go to my local Hydro shop same company close to where I am.

They usually have a gr8t stock of anything you might need and if in doubt give them a ring and it will be there when you get there. Take care of those buds.:)




ya alot of the problem we discovered was that the lower area they were in collected a lil water and the buckets retained too much of it. that combined with the shitty azz rain would cause all the dead leaves that normally would naturaly just dry up and fall to get stuck to or fall on lower buds and cause them to rot. but as a preventitive measure for a few plants i will give them there three sm-90 sprays.

btw got sum pre mature buds (being foreced to topp sum) and not too shabby, not too shabby at tall. maybe a small journal and report will be in order for this season afterall.
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#15 enjoythetimespent

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 11:03 PM

good info I will be keeping this one in the back of my mind.
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#16 Lumix

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 11:16 PM

I have a question relating to this Dose anyone use the first sign of a limp plant as your indicator to water? Thanks
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#17 CaliWildViolet420

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 11:56 PM

Great thread and One that should be heeded with the upcoming warmer weather... One of the common mistakes made by newer growers is mistaking a portion of mold, that looks like red hairs as being okay. In harvesting many a tray, once in awhile, there will be a plant, that has been put on hold. I rarely have any severe mold issues, other than the powder plague. If you are trimming and come across a patch of red in the middle of the bud, it might look like the red hairs of a ripe bud. Do not be fooled. It is mold. It should be cut out and thrown away. The concentration of this small red patch is almost an optical illusion. It is not good for anything and by all means should not be put into the medibles or hash pile. I found a great little photo in the Cervantes book, but cannot remember where it was. We have been lucking with no mold or only the tiniest of the deadlier mold issues. Heed the information on Boytritis, It spreads quick and it kills a crop in a very little amount of time. It is very important to inspect all plants, if you see this and not just count on being lucky enough to have it on one plant.....
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#18 Guest_klosetbreeder_*

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 04:36 PM

Now also being a mycologist (mushroom cultivation) as well as a gardener I deal with "molds" all the time and in mycology a green mold like botrytis is our worst enemy. A very easy way to rid yourself of a mold that is sporulating is to take a mini torch, depending on size, and burn all of the moldy area's this ruins all the spores before they can float to other buds and infect other areas. Mold spreds ungodly fast in a matter of hours in the right conditions mold can spred to your entire crop you wont see it right away but the spores can be there. So burn the effected area and a decent amount around it, cut it out, and burn the insides of your cut to prevent further spred.

Also advanced nutrients cliams that using piranha as a foliar spray can rotect plants. This is from there website in their description if their product and im not trying to promote it in anyway just handing info out
"Piranha works wonders for roots but is also a fantastic foliar spray that protects plants against harmful fungi that attack leaves and flowers, such as Pythium, Rhizoctania solani, Fusarium, Botrytis cinerea (grey mold), Sclerotium rolfsii, and Sclerotinia homoeocarpa."

you can read the rest here
https://www.advanced...hp?productID=44

now I'm not 100% if it works this is just the companys word I'll know more in a few months I have purchased piranha, tarantula, carboload and voodoo juice for my roots which besides carboload are full of benificial microbes that I know as a mycologist make a 100% difference in healthy soil life

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Posted 15 September 2010 - 09:25 PM

hey mogie have a question. was wondering if you or anyone reading this knows if serenade or sm-90 will affect the taste of our beautiful flowers. i just harvested some plants today that i had outside and i noticed that a few plants have bud mold. really sucks because they were the biggest girls i had. the one cola was about 20 inches long and very fat:( im thinking of trying a preventive strategy next year like you said since i am sure this will be a problem next year ( northeast area grower). just worried about the taste being affected. i appreciate your post and if anyone can jump in id appreciate it. peace and love

#20 Mogie

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Posted 17 May 2016 - 08:28 PM

sm-90 won't affect the taste not sure about serenade


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