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Organics for Beginners


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#26 andodesia

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Posted 10 January 2011 - 02:15 AM

this is another picture of the med tent in flower 33days Whiteberry. 22 days left! Humboldt Nutrients Organic line from start. Attached File  IMG_4479.JPG   3.8MB   10 downloads


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#27 playk328

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 05:38 PM

I love the organic chart, I use an organic mix I just thought I would mention the kinda mix I use, I will try some of the above mixtures in the future. Currently I am using 1 Bale of Promix HP 2 L Bone Meal - phosphorus source 1L Blood Meal - nitrogen source 1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source 3-4 cups dolmite lime -calcium source & pH buffering 1/2 - 1 bag earthworm castings - Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit 1-2 weeks before use. I also use General Organics Line for added ferts. This mixture seems to do really well. I was interested in maybe trying that subcool supersoil, but this mixture is doing me well and I am use to it so I stick with it. Either way I hope this helps someone although they seem to have it covered already.

#28 spencerndia

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 03:22 AM

We found the post where sub said it's cool to use compost teas with the supersoil mix as long as there is no nutes, just beneficials. Happy brewing.
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#29 TheDirtFarm

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Posted 30 April 2011 - 01:04 AM

Subs modified Master Soil mix for Norcal **This is what we add to 8 bags of Roots Organic to make the Master Soil** Each bag is 1.5cf or 10 gallons in volume. **Local Worm Castings-40 lbs **Bloom Bat Guano-5 lbs (0-5-0) **Steamed Bone Meal-5 lbs (3-16-0) **Blood Meal-5 lbs (12-0-0) **Cal Phos-2 lbs (20% Ca 20% P2O5) **Pot Ash-1/2 lb (50%K 18%S) **Dolomite-1 cup (49% Calcium Carbonate 36% Magnesium Carbonate) **Powdered Humic Acid- 1 cup **Epsom Salt-1 cup **Azomite-1 lb **Mycorrhizal-1 lb AZOMITE The “father of fertilizer”, Justus von Liebig, developed the “Law of the Minimum” which is important in understanding what AZOMITE does. The Law states that plant growth is determined by the scarcest “limiting” nutrient; if even one of the many required nutrients is deficient, the plant will not grow and produce at its optimum. Conventional fertilizer programs focus on the macro-nutrients like Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K). However, if one of the many essential trace elements is deficient in the soil, the plant will not perform at its optimum, affecting yield and immune function. In a typical chemical assay, AZOMITE contains more than 70 trace minerals which include many rare earth elements (lanthanides). Many of these elements have been depleted from soils worldwide. Generally, plants with AZOMITE added have more and larger fruits and vegetables per plant, have more resistance to disease and have better tasting food products. AZOMITE® has shown results in a wide variety of plants in the field and in the laboratory. AZOMITE has proven results – scientific or anecdotal – in many species of plant including but not limited to: wine grapes, table grapes, sugarcane, potatoes, rice, watermelon, tomatoes, melons, cantaloupes, onion, garlic, papaya, lemons, oranges, cocoa, coffee, mango, oaks, pines, peaches, chilies, berries, eggplant, tobacco, ornamentals, wheat, corn, and many others. It is not surprising that AZOMITE should work in many more types of plants because most require the same types of trace elements that the soil is often lacking. Some of the elements in AZOMITE and their major nutritional functions. Boron (;) - It helps move sugars from cell to cell; control starch formation; stimulates cell division, flower formation and pollination. Calcium (Ca) - Raw material for holding cell walls; raises pH; aids genetic stability; promotes root hair formation and earth; stiffens straw. Chlorine (Cl) - Needed for photosynthesis; stimulates root growth and aids water movement in plants. Cobalt (Co) - Needed by Rhizobium for nitrogen fixation; helps form vitamin B12; improves growth, water movement and photosynthesis; improves boll production in cotton; activates certain enzymes. Copper (Cu) - Enzyme activator, particularly for certain protein forming enzymes and Vitamin A forming enzymes; it stimulated stem development and pigment formation. Iron (Fe) - Raw material for several enzymes including those that form chlorophyll and those that help oxidize (burn) sugar for energy; also necessary for legume nitrogen fixation. Magnesium (Mg) - Raw material for chlorophyll formation; activates enzymes particularly those involved with nitrogen reactions and energy metabolism; it increases oil production n flax and soybeans; helps regulate uptake of other elements. Molybdenum (Mo) - Needed for nitrogen fixation and nitrogen use in the plant; specifically it is needed to make amino acids; it stimulates plant growth and vigor very much like nitrogen. Nitrogen (N) - Raw material for proteins, chlorophyll, and genetic material (DNA and RNA); stimulates vegetative growth. Phosphorous (P) - Raw material of genetic material (DNA and RNA) and for energy carrying compounds (ATP and ADP); stimulates fruit, seed and root production and early season growth; increases winter hardiness. Potassium (K) - Necessary for sugar movement from leaves to developing fruits and seeds and for starch formation. It helps water movement; stimulates fruit, seed and root production and increases disease resistance; increases red pigment in fruits. Silicon (Si) - Increases the number of seeds (particularly in rice and other grains); increases sugar cane growth. Sodium (Na) Necessary for proper carbohydrate production and use; increases resistance to drought; increases sugar content in some crops (sugar beets). Sulfur (S) Raw material for certain amino acids and thus for proteins; necessary for legume nodule formation; raw material for certain oil compounds that give specific odors to some plants such as onions, garlic, mustard, etc; it is also a raw material for certain protein forming enzymes; it increases oil production in flax and soybeans. Zinc (Zn) Raw materials for several enzymes including those that form growth controlling substances; stimulates stem growth and flower bud formation. **MYCORRHIZAL “Mycor” – “rhiza” literally means “fungus” – “root” and defines the mutually beneficial relationship between the plant and root fungus. These specialized fungi colonize plant roots and extend far into the soil. Mycorrhizal fungal filaments in the soil are truly extensions of root systems and are more effective in nutrient and water absorption than the roots themselves. More than 90 percent of plant species in natural areas form a symbiotic relationship with the beneficial mycorrhizal fungi. Mycorrhizal fungi increase the surface absorbing area of roots 100 to a 1,000 times, thereby greatly improving the ability of the plant to access soil resources. Several miles of fungal filaments can be present in less than a thimbleful of soil. Mycorrhizal fungi increase nutrient uptake not only by increasing the surface absorbing area of the roots, but also release powerful enzymes into the soil that dissolve hard-to-capture nutrients, such as organic nitrogen, phosphorus, iron and other “tightly bound” soil nutrients. This extraction process is particularly important in plant nutrition and explains why non-mycorrhizal plants require high levels of fertility to maintain their health. Mycorrhizal fungi form an intricate web that captures and assimilates nutrients, conserving the nutrient capital in soils. •Increases plant growth and survival •Increases nutrient and water uptake •Inproves soil structure •Reduces transplanting stress •Protects plants against diseases **This is why we believe two of the ingredients, Azomite & Mycorrhizal, in the amounts we add, have simply been amazing on growth rates and yields** We completely mix all ingredients and put the mix into 45 gallon tubs and add 3 gallons of H2O and let it sit for 3-4 weeks before using. This ensures complete mixing of all dry products and activates the Mycorrizal. We have let this sit for over 6 months with great results. Just make sure it stays moist. As long as it is kept covered it will stay moist. Use at 50% container volume. You can always add more into the top soil if it is needed but 95% of the time it is not needed. We love, and only use fabric pots. The quality/quanity of the root mass is why we will never go back to plastic. It does work well in plasic pots though. You can just use a smaller container with fabric pots which keeps costs down. We use 5 gallon size fabric pots for 95% of our indoor gardening needs. If you really think you need a bigger pot use 7 gallon fabric pots which equals 50% more soil by volume. 2 gallons Master soil on the bottom, 2 gallons topsoil, add your fully rooted plants, and place pot on catch tray. The key here is when you are ready to transplant, put the Master Soil in the bottom, dig a small hole and push the master soil up along the sides. Fill the hole with top soil, place your fully rooted transplant on top of the small hole you just filled with top soil, then proceed to fill in the rest of the pot with top soil. You do not want the roots of the transplant to touch the Master Soil, they will grow into the soil in time. *Putting the roots directly onto the Master Soil will cause burning of the leaves almost every time and should be avoided.* Water enough so the water goes into the tray and then gets absorbed back into the fabric pot. The tray ensures that you do not flush out the nutrients. Over watering will flush out all the nutrients and must be avoided. YOU ONLY NEED TO ADD CITY WATER FROM START TO FINISH. EVERYTHING IS IN THE MIX, ADDING OTHER NUTRIENTS CAN RESULT IN PROBLEMS AND IS NOT RECOMMENDED! NO PH OR PPM MONITORING NEEDED. You do not need to monitor PH or PPM. The Master soil is buffered. I like to use PH adjusted water of 7.0 run through a carbon filter to remove chlorine, but 95% just use city water with no problems at all. Even high mineral content and chlorine does not seem to be a problem. *If you add additional nutrients to this formula you will run into problems. It was designed this way for a reason, to keep it as simple as possible with quality results* Anyway experiment with Azomite and Mycorrhizal with whatever you use and experience Hydro like groth rates with Organic taste and smell.
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#30 KaeaneabisSativas

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Posted 16 December 2011 - 05:55 PM

Awesome Thread and incredible info!!!
Thanks a million...
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#31 Shaddow

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 09:00 AM

Thanks for sharing .
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#32 berniebud3

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 08:56 AM

THANKS Everyone have Been soil grower FOR years and still learn't something from this BERNIE
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