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Plant Abuse Charts Collected from EVERYWHERE!Please add your input!


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#1 jangel

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Posted 02 June 2009 - 06:30 AM

I have found all over the site, links to various Plant problem charts.

Some of them are great and I thought it might be a good plan to
add them all to one thread and post them up.

Anyone from another site, please feel free to take what can be of use to you and yours. Please.


We have been collecting these in mod for quite a while so we now have enough to bring them INTO THE LIGHT! LOL!




All members:

These are from all over the net. If you have one that has worked well for you, or that you think will help someone else,
please feel free to add to this thread.



Also:
I have added many member posts, in this vien to this thread as I have found them.


Thank you to all that have already unknowingly contributed:

4maggio, Lumix, MediNorCal,

and our chief hoarder of all things grow related, Pine boy!

Props to you all!

And BIG Thank You's!
:welldone:
:kewl pics:
headshakesmiley.gif

:party:

And the first one to start off the thread!

From the Overgrow FAQ



Plant trouble

And Next!



https://www.icmag.co...ead.php?t=11688


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#2 jangel

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 05:30 AM

MediNorCal
Tokin & smokin
BudMaster
headshakesmiley.gif:party:


Gallery: 2

Thanks: 10
Thanked 18 Times in 11 Posts
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Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver
Found This Online and thought everyone here might find this usefull one time or another ( hopefully not though!)


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To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.

1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. :kewl pics: If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. :welldone: If not, go to #3.

3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. :party: If not, go to #4.

4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. :party: If not, keep reading.

5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. :pns: If not, go to #6.

6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. B) If not, go to #7.

7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). B) If not, go to #8…

8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). B) If not, go to #9.

9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. B) If not, go to #10...

10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. B) If not, go to #11.

11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. :) If not, #12.

12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. :) If not, #13.

13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (:) deficiency. :) If not… You may just have a weak plant.


The Nutrients:

Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.

Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.

Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.

Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.

Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.

General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N:P:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.

PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.

Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.

Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.

Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.

Mold and Fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.

Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.

Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.

Insufficient light - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.

Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.


If this helped, send a few dollars to NORML.
Best of luck,
jackerspackle
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#3 jangel

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Posted 17 June 2009 - 06:08 AM

Nutrient Problems with Pictures .: Cannaversity

Another one from Pine Boy!
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#4 pine boy

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Posted 17 June 2009 - 06:27 AM

Grow Marijuana FAQ, Cannabis cultivation - marijuana growing tips & photos

Grow Marijuana FAQ, Cannabis cultivation - marijuana growing tips & photos


Grow Marijuana FAQ, Cannabis cultivation - marijuana growing tips & photos


http://dweb.biz.ly/1...lem solver.html

Chart showing symptoms of various nutrient deficiencies .: Cannaversity

The Complete guide to Sick Plants,pH, and Pest troubles! - International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums
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#5 jangel

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Posted 02 July 2009 - 04:44 PM

new link guys....thanks 4maggio

Ask Lucas - Cannabis-World
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#6 Lumix

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 12:33 AM

I take no credit for writing these or copying the pages... pulled the images from somewhere, may help you out.
looks like salt build up or magnesium deficiency? are you spraying with a foliage spray?
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#7 jangel

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 12:56 PM


Medicine for sick plants


NITROGEN (N) Pale plants, red stems, smaller growth. Rapid yellowing of lower leaves progressing up the plant. Add any chemical fertilizer containing N. Treated plants recover in about a week.

PHOSPHORUS (P) Slow or stunted growth, red stems. Smaller leaves that are dark green. Lower leaves yellow and die. Add chemical fertilizer containing P. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will apear normal.

POTASSIUM (K) Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.

CALCIUM (Ca) Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until condition improves.

SULFER (S) Plants suffering from S definciencies exhibit yellowing of new growth. Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves.

MAGNESIUM (Mg) Lower leaves yellow and may even turn white while veins remain dark green. Blades die and curl upward.

IRON (Fe) Leaves on growing shoots turn pale and veins remain dark green. pH imbalances make iron insoluble. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water.

MANGANESE (Mn) Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.

BORON (headshakesmiley.gif Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.

MOLYBDENUM (Mb) Yellowing of middle leaves. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Mb.

ZINC (Zn) White areas form at leaf tips and between veins. Occurs in alkaline soils. Zn deficiency can be treated by burying galvanized nails in the soil. Chemical fertilizer containing Zn can also be used.

OVER FERTILIZATION Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of water per one gallon of soil.
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#8 capecarded

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 10:24 PM

Attached File  015.jpg   134.16KB   6 downloads Ok, my friend that is attempting a grow in soil is having some issues. Six weeks in flower 12/12/ and he thinks he has 4 to go? He has had some issues: first it was little flies and he was dousing the plants with some chemical I told him was bad. He didn't think there was any other option, until I showed him the little sticky papers. Problem solved, with no chemicals. About 4 weeks in I stopped by for a visit and noticed some damage appearing on the fan leaves. I told him it looked like a chemical problem, we went on GP and tried to find an answer. He has no internet access. I told him the best thing I heard for him to do is flush em good with 1/2 tsp epsom salts/gal water. He's been hacking off the leaves as they deteriorate. The damage doesn't seem to stop. I told him I thought maybe he had a nutrient lockout and that the plants weren't getting something that they need. I've taken a couple photos and I was wondering if anyone would have a suggestion for him other than mine. I told him to keep watering with straight water. Watch the trichomes for amber and the plants will tell you when they are done. He wants to give them more chemicals thinking that he still has at least 4 weeks left. The top cola hairs are turning color. My understanding is about the time those reach the bottom the juice turns milky and after that amber. Harvest time. I told him the plant will tell you when it's done trying to live. Anyhow, I don't know how to just type a little bit. This is the result. Most input would be handy. Thanks.
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#9 KnuckleDragger

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Posted 03 April 2013 - 09:41 AM

You have to properly pH the water you give them. All this requires is a basic kit. http://www.hydroponics.net/i/211515 if the pH is too high or too low you can get nute lock-out. Good pH and the right amount fertilizer is all you really need.

http://www.weedguru....hp?f=88&t=27710

http://www.weedguru....hp?f=88&t=28113
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#10 Blue61

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Posted 03 April 2013 - 03:59 PM

I would suggest flushing them with water. A 3:1 ratio to pot size. Let it dry and give it a normal feeding. Make sure the water you flush with is ph 6.5. After mixing nutes adjust your water to ph 6.5 every time. What kind of water are you using. Such as ro, tap or distilled? Are you giving them calcium? Peace, Blue
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#11 capecarded

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 10:02 PM

Thank you for the replies. I have determined there are too many variables in his situation to be able to know exactly what is "locking them up". He rinsed with the epsom salts. Different plants show different symptoms to me. We stand there and go through possibilities, temperature fluctuation, pH, old nutes, improper mix, watering the day before watering with nutes, There are many issues that I think could be affecting these plants. I told him the area should be more like a laboratory, than a bedroom. I told him to give the best one some nice freshly mixed, properly pH'd, nute mix to the healthiest one(this one also shows sings of stress but not as bad as the others. Oh he has no ventilation in the room either. I'm learning as I go here with my own "lab". I told him if the strongest one can take his mix and show signs of progress, he might be able to give the others' some mix too. But if this one shows signs of stress, just water them. He is using tap water that sits out for 24 hours. He was adjusting the pH, but I don't know if he is anymore or not. peace
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