What Is The Root Of This Problem?

[purpleshadrach]

I have several females in the flowering stage that are about 3-4 feet tall.

I noticed exponential growth of my Afghans'; however, the roots seem to be so jammed in the container it is even difficult to water. The over all health of the plant's is OK but, I do see that the leaves role under a bit. I sunk my pH tester into the the root system and created some holes with the hope that this may provide some air down in the center of the root mass. I did notice a minimal negative effect the next day.

How does everyone manage such a dense root mass?

[justplainbill]

It is kind of late to be transplanting. If they are in the flowering stage I think it is too late. I would let them finish and remember to rectify that problem on your next grow.

Originally Posted by purpleshadrach

I have several females in the flowering stage that are about 3-4 feet tall.

I noticed exponential growth of my Afghans'; however, the roots seem to be so jammed in the container it is even difficult to water. The over all health of the plant's is OK but, I do see that the leaves role under a bit. I sunk my pH tester into the the root system and created some holes with the hope that this may provide some air down in the center of the root mass. I did notice a minimal negative effect the next day.

How does everyone manage such a dense root mass?

[purpleshadrach]

Originally Posted by wb456

It is kind of late to be transplanting. If they are in the flowering stage I think it is too late. I would let them finish and remember to rectify that problem on your next grow.

Do I start them in the flowering stage prior to the plant out growing the pot?

I have to imagine the 1 gallon pot was sufficient when the plant was only 12-18" tall.

I never imagined that the Afghan strain grew so fast; before I knew it the plant was 3 feet tall.

[4everhydro]

use a few drops of dish soap this will allow the water to be absorbed better by the soil.

[OG KUSHMAN]

You have to water from the bottom and top. Put your pot in a tray that will hold 2-3" of water. Fill the tray with water and your plant will take the water up from the bottom. Then top water as much as possible. I would try to cut the pot and transplant if you are not too far into flower and the roots are not hanging out the pot. If its a plastic pot you can cut it with a razor knife. Be careful not to cut the roots. Its rootbound so you dont have to worry about loosing dirt. Use a shock treatment or B-1 after you transplant. The plant will only get more root bound as it flowers and the yeild will suffer.

[HookerRoad]

Contributed by: Thurgood Jenkins

Roots grow outward for stability, so they naturally collect at the edges of the container and leave much of the soil in the middle of the pot unused. This will cause slowed growth because the roots may restrict each other. Transplanting allows for a more efficient root mass, as the space in the middle of the final container will be used.

Allowing the roots to collect at the edges of your 1-gallon pot, will ensure a more efficient root mass when transplanting to a 3-gallon pot. Each time you transplant, you can also bury the plant up to the first node or branch to shorten it's overall height.

Added by: Kunta wears a sarong

It might be worth mentioning that you can bury the plant low or high in the pot you are transplanting to as well; that way all your plants will start off being the same height. Transplanting high might be a good idea for patio growers in high rainfall conditions - this will help drainage.

When
Transplanting should be done a day after watering because moist roots and soil (not soaking wet or bone dry) will slide out of the old pot easier. The soil will hold together better, and less root damage will occur.

How
You should loosen the root bound roots from the bottom and lower sides of the root ball by teasing them out loosely and gently - this will help the transition. if there are too many hanging down after teasing, then it is ok to cut or tear a few handfuls of roots away. If the roots are wrapped around the root ball in the shape of the original pot, then it's best to cut these away to promote faster root penetration into the new pot.

Timing
The secret is the timing of the transplant; you want when the roots have filled the original pot, but before the roots have wrapped around and the plant has become root bound.

The danger of transplanting too early is that when you up can the pot and lift off the pot some of the soil and young roots may become damaged due to the fact that there is insufficient amount of roots to hold all the soil together.

The danger of waiting too long before transplanting is that growth will slow, as the plant has insufficient root room to match the above ground growth – ultimately yielding less. In addition, micro deficiencies, dehydration and other problems occur more frequently with root bound plants. Root-bound plants also take awhile to become vigorous again.

My Technique
My preferred method of transplanting is to moisten the pots I'm going to transplant, moisten the new soil at the bottom of the new pots with a garden mister (the pump up models are best - misters are by far the best way to moisten the soil because they act like rain and do not compact the soil).

Mist each 3-inch layer of soil - lightly sprinkle around the old root ball in the new pot - this will create the best conditions for new growth. Roots will reach out and grow much faster into a light, airy moist soil than the compacted mud created by a hose or watering can to wet down the soil

I believe that many problems are caused initially by compacting the soil.

Lightly moisten your soil before and after transplanting. If a lot of water is pouring out of the holes in the bottoms of your pots when transplanting, then you are probably over wetting the soil and creating soil compaction.

Tips:
If your soil is lacking in soil conditioners (e.g. sand, rock gravel, perlite, vermiculite etc) and the roots have penetrated the new soil - then water again. In normal conditions this would be 4 - 7 days after transplanting. Try to emulate the natural action of rain: pump up misters, watering wands, sprinkler type watering cans are best - forget about using a hose as this may compact the soil and it is also very easy to over water (quickly leaching out nutrients from the soil).

All the soil mix ingredients should be mixed in dry.... never stir or mix wet soil mixes, as they will turn to useless mud.

Added on: Tuesday, May 1, 2007 Viewed: 700 times

[ileso]

i dont believe its ever too late... if done properly the plants wont even notice they were transplanted until they suddenly find all this new soil to grow into, and it wont be at all negative on them if you do transplant... im going to do so as well tomorrow or the day after and im in the 3rd week ...

[freetolive]

If they need it they need it. That's my 2 cents.

Peace.

[justplainbill]

Looks like I am the minority. Thanx mr road, that is a most excellent post. Every day you learn something new.

[Pappy]

Pappy

[purpleshadrach]

Originally Posted by 4everhydro

use a few drops of dish soap this will allow the water to be absorbed better by the soil.

What does the soap do, and does the anti-bacteria additive break down the micro-organisms in the soil?

[ileso]

just as long as the roots arent overly disturbed...

[Shinningwind]

Originally Posted by purpleshadrach

What does the soap do, and does the anti-bacteria additive break down the micro-organisms in the soil?

Yes it most likely will. If using dish soap for any reason ..on your plants... You should find one without the antibacterial additive.

[jangel]

Nebula Popular subject replanting flowering plants today!

ALSO: The dish soap acts as a surfactant and loosens the surface tension of the soil, which allows the water to be absorbed more readily. Yes, do watch it is not antibacterial dish soap.

Many good soil mixes come with a surfactant already in it, if you read the bag.

A better choice than dish soap is a product called SM90. I use that and it is a surfactant and root treatment. It is also natural. Uses coriander oil or some such thing. Plants like it and it works well for me. Toke suggested it. I found it at my local hydro store. It is pretty popular. Most good grow shops have it.

PEACE

Peace

[purpleshadrach]

I completed the transplant today and all is well.

I have to believe that the transplanting will promote new root growth; moreover, I hope that the new root growth would trigger a greater nutrient uptake.

It is possible that the root congestion had something to do with the overall negative aspects of the plants appearance; consequently, a transplant seemed to be the final option.

Thanks for your help everyone and I will add comments later with the results.

-PurpleShadrach-

[jangel]

My plants always look like they have every aliment known to growers if they need replanting. They really look crappy. Stands to reason if they have no food left in the soil and have no where for new roots to grow. If you have healthy, happy roots, the feet of the plant, then you will have a healthy plant. Just like an army, if their feet are bad, then you have a lousy army and they cannot defend themselves. Same with plants.

Peace

isnt leaves curling under a sign of overfeeding as well?

[Gonetripping]

I've been using this product almost a year - I've been happy with it and it's suitable for use on organic foods which suggests it's perfect for our purposes. It does what dish soap would do ... a small bottle cost under $10CDN

http://www.raingrow.com/superflow.html (I'm just pasting the bullet points, there's more if you follow the link)

Superflow™ is a natural surfactant or "spreader" improving spray coverage. Made from the natural extracts of special South American plants, these extracts provide a 100% saponin product creating a natural plant surfactant or "spreader". These special properties provide many advantages in supplying nutrients to plants, such as:

• Superflow is made from the natural juice extracts of specific South American plants, and in addition to some naturally occurring sugars, it is also rich in saponins. Saponins have some unique and beneficial properties, such as:
• Saponins reduce water tension which allow better coverage of products such as liquid fertilizers and nutrients, allowing the nutrients to be more completely assimilated by the plant.
• Superflow is a natural surfactant or “spreader” improves the absorption and retention of water in potting mixes.
• Research has shown that saponins make the plant root cell walls more permeable, thus allowing for better up-take of nutrients.
• Saponins contain natural vegetal steroids making plants sturdier, more drought resistant and less susceptible to stress.
• Saponins allow water to drain off plants quickly, thus assisting in creating a drier leaf after rainfall.
• Superflow is filtered to 74 microns, allowing use in fertigation systems.
• Superflow is OMRI listed for use in production of organic food and fibre. It is environmentally safe and completely natural.

[jangel]

Originally Posted by kpinblackout

isnt leaves curling under a sign of overfeeding as well?

Yes, it can be, or heat stress or overwatering. Any of these.

Peace

[ileso]

Originally Posted by kpinblackout

isnt leaves curling under a sign of overfeeding as well?

they can also curl from overwatering, but its a different type of curling, its not crispy like from overfeeding but a soggy sort of curling..