Temp & Other ?'s - GreenPassion.org - Dedicated to Medicinal Cannabis Cultivation and Education

Gimmmme The Splifffff · #1 11-08-2009, 11:49 PM

Whats up people Im almost done with my room.. I was wondering if I can get away with just keeping my temp @ one number and not having it go down when the plants go to sleep and my lights are off.. I was testing my room with my heater and i can keep it @ one temp and not have a problem..1st time growing and I would like to keep the room at 76 deg's for the whole grow would that be ok? I was reading and when the lights are off they should drop 10 deg's....

So I have my timer for my lights.. - DONE
Heater that will be on 24/7 set @ 76 deg's? - DONE
Dehumidfier set at 55 - 60% during flowering.. NEED TO GET
AC During Summer.. - DONE

What else do I need? I dont want to buy any 300-400-500 dollar electronics this year.. Is this ok?

The Corsican · #2 11-09-2009, 05:52 AM

Hey brother,

I vegged mine continuously (24 hours) so I would think that a consistent temperature would be fine even when the lights are off. Don't take this as the gospel truth but I think you're okay.

-the Corsican.

Gimmmme The Splifffff · #3 11-09-2009, 09:30 AM

thanks bro.. I mean till I can afford the new hardware and have everything I think this is the cheapest way I can do it right now till I get xtra money for some electronics for the room...

The Corsican · #4 11-09-2009, 09:57 AM

Right on.

I still need to buy a timer and I'm probably going to switch over to 12/12 today. I'll just have to do it manually until I get some cash. This is an expensive hobby (start-up costs) if you want to do it right (get the best results possible).

Do you think 50%-60% humidity is about right for flowering? I've been thinking about that myself lately and figured somewhere between 40%- 50% RH would be ideal. Too much humidity and the chances of getting bud rot go up drastically. Everything I've read on the subject indicated that lower humidity is better, but not too low.

-the Corsican.

jangel · #5 11-09-2009, 01:38 PM

It depends what type of plants you are growing. I have some that can attract boitritus, others don't, indoors or out. My room is pretty much at 55 to 60% RH. Only time I have had a problem was when I brought plants inside and it had been raining and cold. Then I had maybe 3 small buds with that problem. But be aware. Make sure you clear the base of the plants of debris and growth, keep fans going, good air exchange, and don't ever wet the buds. You might think on lowering the RH in the last couple of weeks if you get freaked, but I never have. I have a dehumidifiour running, just because I also have buds drying, but other than that, save your hydro if you can as those things eat electicity.

Peace

jangel · #6 11-09-2009, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Corsican

Right on.

I still need to buy a timer and I'm probably going to switch over to 12/12 today. I'll just have to do it manually until I get some cash. This is an expensive hobby (start-up costs) if you want to do it right (get the best results possible).

Do you think 50%-60% humidity is about right for flowering? I've been thinking about that myself lately and figured somewhere between 40%- 50% RH would be ideal. Too much humidity and the chances of getting bud rot go up drastically. Everything I've read on the subject indicated that lower humidity is better, but not too low.

-the Corsican.

Corisican, I got a good little plug-in timer from home depot. Never had a problem with it. Pretty straight forward and it was not over 20 bucks I don't think, maybe 30. I bought one from my hydro store, which was stupid as it was about a third more, but the same damn thing. They are sold for appliances and lights at Home depot.

Peace

The Corsican · #7 11-09-2009, 06:15 PM

Hey Jangel,

Yeah, those damn Hydro stores are pretty much a rip off! Everything I've bought at my local shop has been overpriced and heavily marked up. I have more than one choice but both are pretty bad at screwing their customers. I never did mention it Jangel but I finally got around to buying my HID. I wound up going with a 400w HPS (Lumatek) and I'm glad I did. If I had gone with a 250w it probably would have been a big mistake. I got the ballast, reflector (Xtrasun) and bulb (Plantmax) for $209.00 dollars shipped.

Pretty good deal huh?

I'm in the process of light proofing my grow room right now. I know that sounds a little backwards but when money's tight you have to do things as they come. What I'm a bit worried about are temps. I just sealed one entry point in my room and the temps went up two degrees (82). I have to seal another point (make a door from scratch) and that's going to be a chore. It's where my intake fan is. I'm not sure whether or not I should reverse things. Instead of pumping air into the grow maybe I should be sucking air out at this point?

Any ideas?

(Sorry if this is a thread hijack brother, maybe Jangel can move this post if it bothers you. Again, I apologize).

-the Corsican.

ganathan · #8 11-09-2009, 07:26 PM

It is most efficient if you suck air out of the top of your room and have a passive intake that is larger than your exhast and locate it near the ground

Sprocket · #9 11-09-2009, 08:17 PM

that makes perfect sense

The Corsican · #10 11-09-2009, 08:17 PM

Gana,

Yeah, that's what I was thinking also. My fan is positioned at the top now so when I add the door I'll just rip a circle the same diameter of the fan. I still need to get a proper inline fan and a carbon filter but money's tight.

Thanks,

-the Corsican.

operator1 · #11 11-09-2009, 08:27 PM

what I did with mine is I put the inline fan and carbon filter at the top of the closet and then only light proofed the three sides of the door with weather stripping, I left the bottom inch of the door open and it seems to work pretty good for intake. The only thing I might do is put some cotton batting on the bottom of the door to prevent things from getting sucked in there, there is a good air draw with the filter running and the door closed.

The Corsican · #12 11-10-2009, 08:47 AM

One thing I haven't figured out yet is how to light proof the intake and fan ports. I want fresh air in the room during lights off. I'll figure it out.

-the Corsican.

jangel · #13 11-10-2009, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Corsican

Gana,

Yeah, that's what I was thinking also. My fan is positioned at the top now so when I add the door I'll just rip a circle the same diameter of the fan. I still need to get a proper inline fan and a carbon filter but money's tight.

Thanks,

-the Corsican.

NO NO NO! In order for your fan to work at it's best and draw the hot air out efficiantly you must have a passive cool air intake low in the grow, 3 times the size of your fan exhaust is. So my fan is a 4 in vortex, at the top of the grow room, exhausting out a blinded window. I have 3 X 4 inches of cool air passive intakes coming into the space. That is 12 inches of cool air passive coming into the space. Also, do NOT use a fan at your cool air intake. This can actully slow down the air coming INTO the space.

It works like this: Air will not allow a vacuum. This is pure physics. As fast as the air is being pumped OUT of the space it is sucked INTO the space by the air pressure. And being low in the grow, it will push UP the hot air, making it eaiser for your fan to suck it out. If you do not have sufficiant draw, you will get a sucking of your door etc, and it will not work as efficiantly as it could. It is all about air EXCHANGE. Check also the Knowledge Project! Air exchange for more info.

Also, if you look in the DIY section, there are plans for blinds to prevent light leaking into your flower area. Pretty simple to do.

Peace

The Corsican · #14 11-10-2009, 10:05 AM

Hi Jangel,

I think you misunderstood what I was saying Jangel. I meant "rip a hole" where the fan will be exhausting or pulling air out of the grow. I'm very familiar with the 3x intake (You've explained it to me in the past) rule. I appreciate the heads up on the DIY section. I'll check it out ASAP.

Thanks,

-the Corsican.