Heat Signature?

re12377

What material is needed to prevent heat signature already have ac unit and air cool reflector but still thinking about the bulb heat..any ideas?

ISO2BWELL

How much light are we talking about, and inside what kind of structure?

Makes a big difference.

ISO

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re12377

In a garden shed type structure..upgrading from one 600w to two 600w both will be on an inline fan there is an attic with a sheet metal roof but i dont know what if any insulation is in the attic?

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jonnyappleweed

I built my grow room out of poly shield sheathing for my inner wall surface it's 1/2" foam with mylar on one side and clear film on the other.I also used 4" fiberglass batting insulation under it. the room is practicly air tight after using commercial grade reflective cloth duct tape to seal all edges and seams.(the mylar reflects light/heat so it should conceal the heat signature) I bought the poly shield at HOME DEPOT

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ISO2BWELL

RE,

While the insulation and PolyShield (like Johnny uses, above) is great for reflecting heat, you still need to exhaust that heat from the room in a way that is "stealthy" to some degree. A "hot spot" of an exhaust is quite visible from the air to infra-red.

I am looking towards building a shed much the same when the laws change here in WA (hopefully in the next few months) and had planned to exhaust my heat from down low in the room, blowing it out via a duct into a heavily treed area several feet away, but close enough to my house that if they ever even saw it odds are it would appear like a clothes dryer exhaust, and even that is very doubtful unless they were at the highest sensitivity level, which makes no sense in a semi-developed area with houses, etc.

I plan to use a 8" cage fan exhausting that is sucking in the air via a 7' tall, 8" duct that goes vertical. This way you get the hot air out from the upper part of the room and send it out. You could even install 2 of the exhausts, in opposing corners, and they would take up very little space. You could also task one of the exhaust systems to draw from the attic area, dissipating the heat that is sure to build up in there during the summer months with all that the insulation.

ISO

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re12377

The exhaust goes out under the building which is up on concrete blocks so i think im good with the roof, ceiling and floor for blocking the signature of the air or am I wrong?

ISO2BWELL

I think you've taken a damn good shot at it, and if not "bulletproof" it's damn close. Air flow over the roof is pretty good at dissipating heat, too, so there's some natural cooling that will take place outside. Getting the heat out of the attic area would be my biggest concern, also for keep the room at manageable temps in the summer months.

ISO

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