*grumble* ... I dislike learning things the hard way - but I think I'm taking this one on the chin ... don't think it's 'life threatening' but here goes ...

Question - I have been using coco coir and different mulches with some clones we had to see how well they suited me. Had lots of peat moss left over from landscaping so I thought to try using some of that. I was not aware of how acidic peat moss was and was experimenting with different soil mix than would be recommended which was used in a transplant. Getting PH readings around 5.5 yesterday, previously was steady at 7

Soil mix includes (40% peat moss, 40% perlite, 10% vermiculite, 10% work casting)

Bat Guano
Blood Meal
Bone Meal
Dolemite Lime
Green Sand
Gypsum
Kelp Meal

Have been able to use captured rain water without anything added - got distilled water in reserve.

Not sure how well Dolemite Lime (didn't have that much in - 1 tablespoon per gallon) will work to keep the PH stable since I wasn't aware of the acidic nature of the peat moss. Have read of the problems with Gypsum out of a certain PH range (very interesting)

I'll be more diligent in monitoring things now that I'm aware of this ... but wanted to get any tips for others ...

hey Gonetripping. It sounds like you have a ph meter. That is good. yes, peat moss is acidic. Pre-mixed soils usually have this dealt with, with buffering agents, and lime as well as having surfactants added. They will have the ph on the bags. I use a propriatary soil mix from home depot, And add to that, perlite, bone meal, dolimite lime and for flowering plants some blood meal, also occasionally some FF American Pride. I know it might be over kill but hey, so far it works for me. but would use the one videoman recommends IF I could get it here. Also, sunshine mix #4 is another good blend, available widely. Make sure you check the runnoff after the medium is totally wetted, then allow extra ph'ed water to go through again. Not just the first wash through of water. That will not be accurate.

I find there is no need to re-invent the wheel and mix all of it from scratch. You can if you want, but hey, there are so many choices, why do that? KISS! Keep It Simple Stupid! ( And no, I am not calling anyone but my self stupid, thank you!)

__________________
Life,
j-angel

aka GP purrie kittie attack cat!


My Little Grow LST'ing w/Hardware

My Outdoor Odyssey 2008 BONSAI MUMS

My Little Grow Indoor To Outdoor 2009

Thanks for the input Jangel... this isn't the main grow ... it's what I'm throwing the excess clones into ... don't have real plans to see them through ... but I am curious about the lesson about peat moss ... I've learned that 'muck moss' is PH neutral...

Btw - I've lost 3 or 4 clones when using the coco ... but I'm not using a fine coir, it's closer to a mulch but not so coarse or with the large chunks ... those losses have been part of learning how to water coco (got it at Canandian Tire!)

OKAY. First off: The cocoa that you get for mulch IS NOT THE SAME AS COCOA COIR. Cocoa coir comes in almost a solid form, it comes in a brick and you have to break it up. And ph check and correct. Then I believe once it breaks down, you really have to watch the PH. Not sure, never used it. You can get the planting grade one from hydro stores. If there is one in my small burg, I am sure there must be one near you. Good just to go and window shop. Also a good way to see many different products and what the prices are from there versus mail order.

My next question: what else are you trying? You say mulches. You cannot use just mulch and expect a healthy plant. I am sorry, but I don't see that happening unless you do something like hydro, and feed the plant.

Don't mean to sound like a defeatist, I am just trying to help.

__________________
Life,
j-angel

aka GP purrie kittie attack cat!


My Little Grow LST'ing w/Hardware

My Outdoor Odyssey 2008 BONSAI MUMS

My Little Grow Indoor To Outdoor 2009