anybody ever hear of predator mites, hear they work great?

Try google SPIDER MITE

predator mites work if you are lucky, but most posts here say that the predator mites never eat all of the spider mites especially if your infestation is bad, + many of the insecticide and/or ovicide sprays including neem will kill the predator mites.

There's a strain of mites that only prey on spider mites. After the consume the spider mites they die of starvation.

"There's a strain of mites that only prey on spider mites. After the consume the spider mites they die of starvation."

Yeah, I know -- good luck if you try them -- once you are infested with the heinous borg, two-spotted spider mite you are doomed if you try to wait for the other mites to eat them + if you spray neem or pyrethium or any other insecticide the predator mites will die too. You will waste your money on predator mites if you are infested with spider mites; if you don't believe me, then go for it.
My new spray mix is: neem, cedar and cinnamon oils, every 2 to 3 days. As soon as I can't smell the oils on the leaves, I spray again. Good to spray with 50/50 rubbing alcohol in between to wash off the oils so there is no buildup -- plants are thriving, too many other products burn the plants!!!
Good luck to any and all with these mf bugs -- just keep spraying until you kill every single one and their stupid eggs.
Remember to turn the lights off!

help..I have webs and just found green bug very visible to the eye..seems to be on one variety..not sure..maybe I should give them the death march..what do you guys think?

If it aint part of my plant it get's neem'd...If you got webs then you got these...wipe em out.

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I have a product called Azatrol and was just looking at the application info and noticed there is a root application. It's main ingredient is the same as neem, but yet they claim there is no neem in the product. It, like neem it is organic.
I'm giving it a try since I am in late flower and don't want to keep spraying.
I will post my results here.

My experience with mites is that they are extemely resilient. The ones I have are immune to pyrethrin foggers. The last time I set off a doctor doom, following all directions, sealing the room, turning the fans off, etc. not one mite died.
I have success with 50/50 rubbing alcohol and water mixture (this evaporates quickly, so it doesn't harm the plants at all providing you turn the lights off) and a mixture of neem, cedar oil and cinnimite. I have also read that there is an australian product called eco oil which is canola oil, with teatree and eucalyptus. SM90, though great for powdery mildew does absolutely nothing for these mites. People who keep posting that it works must be dealing with a wimpy breed of mite!

Justplainbill has had success with Listerene and water sprayed on the plants. It, like alchol evaporates off and leaves no residue.

Peace

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Doesn't the Alchohol in Listerine act as a solvent if sprayed over resin glands? They aren't water soluble but they sure are achohol soluble?????????? Dunno maybe you aren't supposed to spray it on a full flowering plant??????? Just wondering.

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Couple suggestions for ANY Mite. Ladybugs= the dam death sentence for em. Bye Bye! Also Raise your Humidity to about 70% for a day or two and circulate the air. It wont kill every one of them but it will implode a ton of them little buggers where maybe you can get ahold of them with a neem or pyrethin spray. Spider Mites breed in low humidity environments and once they get colonized it's the begining of the end my friends. Keep the area VERY clean and maintain more medium humidity levels with adequate ventilation and you'll never see one. One more tip, I change my clothes and wash my hands before entering my room if I have been outside. That is a good way to introduce hitchiking pests into your lovely smorgasboard(Garden)

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using it systemically seems to be working!!!
It's only been a couple of days, but some are dead, and the ones that are alive have a very soft ectoskeleton.

I'm in late flower, so I'm done with spraying. My experience with these f*cking borgs has been that they live through everything and get stronger. Humidity does NOT kill them and if you are in late flower, you will rot your buds!

eliminating mites is much harder than preventing them.

personally, i've had really good luck with nothing more than HotShot NoPest
strips but i am a micro-grower so my environment is small.

anyway, here is some info i found on the web which might be of some use.

i hope this helps!



How to Get Rid of Spider Mites

Getting rid of spider mites (often incorrectly spelled spidermites) from your garden is priority number one if you’re recognized a spider mite infestation because in the world of horticulture there are mites and then there are spider mites, or what we can call the two-spotted mite. Spider mite populations grow so quickly that often times a farmer or gardener is caught off guard. Warm, dry temperatures make the perfect climate for the spider mite’s reproductive cycle, which leaves your plants susceptible not only to drought but also to the spider mite’s tenacious appetite. If you’ve noticed the signs of a mite infestation described on your left, and you’re dealing primarily with flowers, it may be in your best interest to turn to a miticide for the quickest and most effective control. However, if you’re a farmer or a gardener tending vegetables and herbs, you may want to consider an integrated pest management approach, which is what we’ll explain below: how to get rid of spider mites and control spider mite populations without insecticides or miticides, as the case may be.

Natural Spider Mite Control


Horticultural Oils such as that extracted from the neem tree, are excellent alternatives to non-organic compounds when you want to kill spider mites. One must be wary, however, of the ingredients used to produce the horticultural oil purchased because historically horticultural oils have been derived from petroleum rather than vegetable oils. But change is coming.
Horticultural oils used to kill spider mites should be applied during the day during warmer periods to ensure quicker evaporation, thus reducing the chances of damaging the plants. Plants that are noticeably under water stress should not be sprayed with oils.

Insecticidal soaps are rather mean way to kill mites. Derived from organic soaps like Castile soap, insecticidal soaps kill mites and other plant pests by compromising their cellular integrity, causing cells to rupture and die. In other words, insecticidal soaps dissolve the spider mite from the inside out, slowly turning them into mush. The usual recipe is about 2-3 drops of castile soap for every quart of water. There are premixed commercial applications available online if you don’t feel you have the experience necessary to mix your own insecticidal soaps.
Getting rid of spider mites (often incorrectly spelled spidermites) from your garden is priority number one if you’re recognized a spider mite infestation because in the world of horticulture there are mites and then there are spider mites, or what we can call the two-spotted mite. Spider mite populations grow so quickly that often times a farmer or gardener is caught off guard. Warm, dry temperatures make the perfect climate for the spider mite’s reproductive cycle, which leaves your plants susceptible not only to drought but also to the spider mite’s tenacious appetite. If you’ve noticed the signs of a mite infestation described on your left, and you’re dealing primarily with flowers, it may be in your best interest to turn to a miticide for the quickest and most effective control. However, if you’re a farmer or a gardener tending vegetables and herbs, you may want to consider an integrated pest management approach, which is what we’ll explain below: how to get rid of spider mites and control spider mite populations without insecticides or miticides, as the case may be.
Spider Mite Control

The first step toward getting rid of spider mites is to isolate the plants, but keep the infested plants clustered. Isolating your plants will reduce the risk of spider mite migration. Spider mites are quite adept at riding air currents to and from the plants they wish to feed on. Keeping your plants in clusters will help retain moisture by reducing airflow between the plants. Spider mites are not very keen on moist climates; they need the evaporative properties of an arid climate to reproduce more efficiently.
Retaining humidity and moisture is a good way to get rid of spider mites. This can be accomplished in several ways. If you’re tending potted plants, keeping your pots over a platter of water will help keep immediate moisture levels up. If you’re tending to garden plants, you may want to consider putting in peat moss to fill the gaps between plants. Of course, the best way to keep humidity and moisture levels high is to bring your plants indoors where they can be misted with very cold water on a regular basis (2-3 times a day). The same treatment can be done to outdoor plants with firm but careful sprayings to help drown the mites and remove them from the plants. Keeping plants out of the late afternoon sun and/or arid weather is perhaps your best defense against spider mites. This may not be possible for those of us who cannot remove plants via pots, but any way to provide shade to damaged or weakened plants during the warmer hours of the day will help. For indoor plants, drawing the shades or moving plants out of direct sunlight should help dissuade spider mites from taking up permanent residency. You may also want to consider setting a humidifier next to any affected plants. It has been suggested that spraying plants with a 1:1 mixture of alcohol and water will kill spider mites on contact. Rubbing alcohol, like any alcohol for any creature, is poisonous in high dosages, and it evaporates quickly doing little damage to the plant it’s been sprayed on. Some people suggest a 1:3 mixture of rubbing alcohol to water, but the strong the mixture, the more certain you are to get as many mites as possible. Make sure to cover the entire plant, focusing on the bottoms of the leaves where spider mites tend to hang out. If all else fails, miticides are, of course, one of the most effective forms of spider mite treatments and the fastest way to get rid of spider mites—usually. It all depends on the kind of miticide that you choose. Some of the most common miticides are Avid, Kelthane, and just about anything that contains pyrethoids. These chemicals should be applied once every five days until all signs of spider mite infestation have gone. Again, people gardening vegetables and herbs should try every other avenue before using miticides, including the biological mite controls described below.

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Heya bud,
Okay Higher Humidity will not kill them all if they have established colonies you are right BUT it is a FACT that if you catch them in the development stages Humidity above 60% will implode them. I am in the 11th week of flowering and unfortunately my humidity is around 60-65% but with cooler air circulation constantly moving around the plants you are not going to rot buds. If that were always the case I would have rotten buds on this plant by now and there aint a one rot sign on it. It can be done my friend. I have to say though like before, once they colonize to any numbers(which they always do) you'd do better by wiping out the grow and thoroughly cleaning your grow area and maintaining a proper Climate(ventilation) Huh I am one to talk as I have no exhaust other than a fan exhausting out the window outside.LOL I am just trying to use MY personal experience to help ya get it under control but others probably have better methods. Your right about not foliar spraying during flowering though my friend. Iuse alot of HID light though so I never do because of the "clarifying" damage that can occur. I found that out the hard way real quick.
Good Luck and Peace,
Med

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2nd follow-up on Azatrol systematic usage:
Same situation, there are mites, but they are not doing well!!
The ectoskeleton is like butter. Azatrol screws with the reproductive abilities of the mites, so eggs are not being laid. The ones that are hatching are maturing into retards.
There are zero fungus gnats.
I can't swear that there won't be a few mutants that survive this, but I recommend using this stuff sytemically when you can't spray.
It doesn't really have an odor, it's organic and I flush anyway, so, it should be fine.

just saw info about this new miticide + ovicide called
SucraShield
It's organic and made from sucrose and food grade fatty acids.
Sounds promising!

thats cool that the Phytoseiulus persimilis predator mite cannibalize each other after the spider mites are gone. any way i have had a gnat problem for a couple of weeks now. first off, is there more than one kind of gnat? secondly what is the best way to kill them? i've just been smashing everyone i can get my hands on which is getting old quick.

I hate mites... those little buggers just forced me into an early harvest. Dr doom didn't work for me, killed some but not all.

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When true patriots become labeled as enemies than you can bury my corpse right beside lady liberty's.

I had gnats too... controlled them with a product called gonats (sp?) You apply to roots and as a foliage spray. It didn't totally get rid of them but after a couple applications they were under control enough so my ladies could keep growing.

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When true patriots become labeled as enemies than you can bury my corpse right beside lady liberty's.

Our last grow was rather large, and we ended up with a mite infestation.
I tried everything you guys have` talked about in this thread with no luck. Neem was ooey gooey stuff that suffocated my plants. I tried everything, and nothing worked but Floramite. 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon per gallon..spray on and mites die..period and it gets them all the first time.
Problem is it's very expensive, but i got a small bottle on Ebay.
1oz BTL FLORAMITE SC *FREE* SHIPPING 3-5 DAYS - eBay (item 260476791119 end time Nov-12-09 15:15:07 PST)

It is for ornamental use, and non fruit bearing trees, but you can use it 3 weeks before harvest.
lost earlier entire crops to mites..living out in the country and going out with the dogs on hikes, etc...bringing them in on our bodies. When we moved in to our new place..there were mites all over the weeds and plants next to the porch, and they were crawling all over the porch rails.

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We call it that because some clown at another forum came up with the formula and it saved many a garden!

mix 50/50 70% alcohol and water in a sprayer
spray the crap out of your plants on a regular basis
repeat as needed

got my sprayer all ready to go
got the lights off and cooling

puttin on the BTVS music videos to get pumped...
those mites are in for a fight!

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