What happened here?
Lately I have had serious issues with leaves curling, changing colors, becoming necrotic, and then looking completely atrocious before completely dying and thus being able to be easily plucked off with no force. I have done many tests in the last 6 weeks which lead me to conclude It can't be nutes, it can't be the h20, it can't be the mix and I haven't seen any thrips or else I would say it was a virus they vector...
the silver haze and silver pearl are the most susceptible to this BS.....

grown in promix with plenty of light
adding Hi N guano, Hi P guano, greensand, worm castings.

Mix had worked wonderfuly for several years until a couple months ago when issues began so I tried to figure out the cause by doing different tests

first with water- 4 identical clones in straight PM each one with a different type of water (all pH acceptable)

then with the mix- 4 identical clones each one with my normal dirt mix but with the different waters

pH of runoff tends to be 6.6-7.1

I have tried straight pro mix with chem ferts
I have tried distilled from clone
I have tried R/O from clone
I have tried simple carbon filters
I have tried it straight from the tap
I have tried different batches of pro mix
I have tried HQ potting soil

I say its gotta be a F'n virus
whatt'chall think?

Attached Images

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i'm baffled too. but I like your camera. those are some great pics.

what's your relative humidity?

are you using a hydro hut? if so, did you know they had a recall? something about lead in the poles; caused a similar problem for lots of people...

At first it looked like a defiancy to me, but after looking some more, (and feeling your pain) I think it is too much nutes, or a PH problem.

I'm not sure which, but I know I grow using organics, and I dont use half the stuff you do. My plants look pretty good too. I'm sorry to say...better than these do.

I use only bone meal for vegging, and only super swell guano for flowering.
I did use a touch of maxi crop seaweed once during vegging.

Maybe time to try again, and "keep it simple"?
Peace

Thats the thing... I do try to keep it simple... and in 5+ years here, I have never had any issues before this...

My mix has always been organic and consistent and I had done nothing differently to cause this...It just happened. That picture of the 12/12 was taken at the same time as the others and it was the last crop that was perfect. ( I'm going to miss getting excited by the large fan leaves turning yellow as the plant matures because they have already died.

ALSO--- Only on the messed up plants, the petioles if bent, snap very very easily. this does not happen with healthy 1's

My first thought was pH 'cause that is the only thing that I thought could have changed without me knowing but after constantly checkin it before use and after use I have ruled that out.

I am not using any hydrobox or whatever that is, I keep the RH at 60-80% to ward off mites and keep the predators going, and it took about 2 hours to get the camera to the right setting to get those shots- the first 1s I took looked awful.(The HID's mess with the exposure on the cam. )


I am not completely totally 100% bumming because things could always be worse right? and I will have plenty to use; I just liked to have a surplus so I could shake for hours and hours. (we love our hash)

Just a thought, have you been growing the same strain from clone for years?

Have you picked up on any one variable that may have changed in your history of growing in this space/ that strain?

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PS i am a pathological liar, and have illusions of grandeur. I post pictures of pot plants i found on the internet and i have never nor will i ever consider the cultivation of marijuana, as it is illegal.

How clean are your cloning materials and grow room? When was the last time you washed it down with a bleach solution?

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What I freely have been given let me freely share

yes and no- the SH goes back to 97 and the newest were planted in 2006 I don't use mothers anymore as I always clone off of fresh stock, I never use any hormone, always use a fresh blade after 4 snips off the same plant and in addition to the initial 45° cut, I always trim down some of the outer layer of skin so that the juicy cambium is exposed inside the 2" rockwool cube. This results in a 100% success rate 99% of the time.

I always make sure everything is always sterile and like I said I've exhausted all thoughts of what the problem could be.

AS for cleaning the rooms I am a freak- I always remove dead matierial once a week off each plant even going as far as washing my hands between plants.

The rooms are lined with FRP so each time it thins out enough to remove all remaining members to the work bench I do just that; then I go in with the hose and hose down everything but the lights then I don a respirator and wipe down everything with a bleach solution before rinsing again. The last time I did this b4 the funk hit was in september.

When the plants are taken down and cut, the containers are then immeadietly washed and rinsed with bleach, left to dry and then stacked.

I have thought and thought and thought about this isue and since my tests and research have come up empty, I decided to take my problem public and enlist in your help.
I don't really want to do a total hack since nobody else I know grows and I would lose my genetics and hafta start over but if thats what it takes then.....

Oh one more thing... When I take clones from the healthy parts of the plants (and I don't clone every single plant), they look beautiful- just as they should. Even after they grow roots and I put 'em in the 4 squares they still look wonderful but NOW once I put them into the final bucket, they grow perfect for a couple weeks then BAM it starts with a little leaf curl here, a little brown spot there and soon total devistation is reaped upon me.. Oh well I gots t' get some sleep, G'nite

I think your room may have become haunted. Maybe you should call "Ghostbusters". Sorry, thats all I can come up with.

I know you've been quite fastidious with your cleaning, but the pics look to show a fungus. I don't know how fungi could survive in your immaculate conditions.

HMM. I notice this to an extent but only when using promix pitting soil without enough perlite, but even then it persisits. it has yet to kill any of my plants though. which nutrients do you use besides guano?

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I grow my bounty and spread it to those who need it. Johny law Won't stop my crop.

here is what my promix issue looks like. this plant has been on straight RO water with calmag and 12/12 from seed. I added a GH 3 part nutrient mix today to see if it will help her out. does it look the same?

__________________
I grow my bounty and spread it to those who need it. Johny law Won't stop my crop.

hope this helps
Botrytis or Gray Mold

The plant pathogenic fungus Botrytis is found virtually everywhere plants are grown. It is fast growing, can grow on many different sources of nutrients, survives well in the greenhouse, and can attack many different types of plants. The disease caused by Botrytis is commonly called Botrytis blight or gray mold.

The fungus:
Botrytis at first appears as a white growth on the plant but very soon darkens to a gray color. Smoky-gray "dusty" spores form and are spread by the wind or in water. In greenhouses, any activity will result in a release of spores. Even automated trickle irrigation systems, when turned on, trigger a release of spores. These spores are often found on the outside of seeds. The spores can remain dormant on plant surfaces as long as the life of the plant in some cases. Botrytis forms two types of resting structures on or in infected plant tissue: 1) very dark brown or black multicelled structures called sclerotia and 2) single-celled, thick, dark walled chlamydospores . The fungus can persist in the greenhouse for long periods in either structure in the absence of plants.
Infection:
Botrytis is a weak pathogen that must have nutrients or some food source before it invades the plant. Nutrients leaking from wounded plant parts or from dying tissue such as old flower petals provide the required nutrients. From this food base, the fungus becomes more aggressive and invades healthy tissue. A dark to light brown rot forms in the diseased tissue. High humidity conditions favor the growth of this fungus.
Sites of first infection:
Wounded tissue such as large stubs left after taking cuttings.
Fading flowers.
Leaves on which fading infected flowers have fallen.
Broken stems or injured leaves.
Leaves damaged by overfertilization, spray damage, or mechanical injury.
Seedlings grown under cool, moist conditions.
Cuttings taken from plants with heavy infestations of Botrytis.
Management:
Sanitation is the first important step. Remove dead or dying tissue from the plants and from the soil surface. Remove this refuse from the greenhouse. Do not throw debris under benches or on walks. Sanitation alone is not sufficient to control this fungus. The fungus can produce 60,000 or more spores on a piece of plant tissue the size of your small finger nail. Even one spore can infect a plant and cause disease.
Avoid injuring plants in any way. Do not leave large stubs of tissue on stock plants when taking cuttings.
Heat and ventilate greenhouses to prevent high humidity conditions. This may only require extra venting early in the day when moisture has condensed and before sunlight has warmed the air. Even lowering the humidity slightly can have a significant effect on Botrytis. Outdoor planting should be planned to provide good air circulation patterns. This is the most important means of inhibiting Botrytis activity.
Added protection is available for many crops by applying a fungicide or combination of fungicides. However, Botrytis can develop resistance to certain chemicals

yeah.. I know what botrytis looks like, but it usually has pronounced white fungus like hairs at the edges or all over the infected area.

__________________
I grow my bounty and spread it to those who need it. Johny law Won't stop my crop.

You know what... I do keep my humidity high to keep the spider mites from reproducing so redily.... I am convinced that it is something like this but as K mentions there is no white anywhere...... I have twenty four beautiful clones of 6 types in there right now. I am going to remove two of each one and take them to the farthest point in the house away from there where they'll get some direct sun and some incandescence at night.... We'll see what happns then.


AS FOR NUTRIENTS
In with the P-mix, I add only 13-8-2, 3-10-1 guanos; greensand; worm castings; little bit of perlite; little bit vermiculite and thas it. when I make the move, I take 'em out to the workbench and give them a topdress of some supercharged (with 1-10-0 seabird) It works wonders I tell ya.
At my last place in the nineties I used to water with NITRON a-35 and sea grow plus but my better half finally put an end to the sea grow! I havent thought about a-35 in years.... I should probably get some of that again.

if i had to take a seriouse stab at what i would do to fix it i would say it is in the grow medium / soil or temp/humidity issues and also mabey not enough circulating fresh air but my money is on the grow medium and temp

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Regard,
Closet-DWC

And remember just try and act NORML

I have always had problems with fungus when keeping my humidity over 50%. Besides marijuana seems to thrive when the humidity is around 30%.

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What I freely have been given let me freely share

is there any chance that you have jelous friend or family member thats taking a piss in you water when your not home TRUST NO ONE i once had a friend do some watering for me and he mixed DNF wrong when i was in jail for a month i made enough water for 3 weeks and he gave them his mixture for a week and they looked just like this but with darker brown leaves IS SOMEONE POISONING YOUR GIRLS

Hey has anyone said magnesium yet the leafs look like a deficiencies for sure now .... does not look like any mold or fungi i have ever seen ... cus i cant see any one your plants but i would try taking the nutes to 1/4 strength flushing the soil and adding a little mag to the mix .
so in order
1 flush soil
2 cut feeding to 1/4 strength (this is because the plants are not taking in a large amount of food while they are sick so giving them more will not help so untill the damage is repaired i would cut back a little, remember you can always add more but you cant take back what you gave.)
3 add a little magnesium in on a few feeds it couldn't hurt and that is what it looks like to me.
and can you get a accurate ph/tds reading of the run of water after you water them one day.

__________________
Regard,
Closet-DWC

And remember just try and act NORML