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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2008, 03:00 AM
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Default what will this yield? anyone?

any guess for what this will yield? I'ts barely into flowering so another 50-65 days

SENSI SEEDS > SENSI SEEDS > Indoor > ED ROSENTHAL SUPER BUD®
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Old 08-29-2008, 03:04 AM
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Smile It has already yielded drool

Quote:
Originally Posted by MediNorCal View Post
any guess for what this will yield? I'ts barely into flowering so another 50-65 days

SENSI SEEDS > SENSI SEEDS > Indoor > ED ROSENTHAL SUPER BUD®
A side shot would be a better view for an estimation. Still a cool shot.

I guess yours if you guess mine. HEHEHE see my album

Last edited by justplainbill; 08-29-2008 at 03:12 AM. Reason: still stoned
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Old 08-29-2008, 02:08 PM
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i did post a sideways one last night i thought haha

..

ahh i see why they didn't upload they were too big sorry re-sized and re-uploaded thnx
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Old 08-29-2008, 02:54 PM
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depends on a boatload of factors.

how does 2 OZs sound?

it is a nice looking plant though, that's for sure...
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How big of an area can my lights cover?
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Old 08-29-2008, 04:16 PM
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just guessing as I am not familiar w/ the strain...but at least 1.5 oz though I hope you get more
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Old 08-29-2008, 05:43 PM
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yeah i think about 2 zips, more would be nice, but who knows.
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Old 08-29-2008, 05:58 PM
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remember quality before quantity
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Old 08-29-2008, 06:58 PM
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ahhhmen... not that im religious or anything....
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Old 08-29-2008, 07:39 PM
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a non religious using religious terms...what is this world coming to? ;) so since your not religious what does it mean to you? sorry im real stoned off my finger hash an chem-4 ...what was I talking about?
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Old 08-29-2008, 10:32 PM
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Default 2.5 wet ounces

Quote:
Originally Posted by MediNorCal View Post
i did post a sideways one last night i thought haha

..

ahh i see why they didn't upload they were too big sorry re-sized and re-uploaded thnx
It is hard to estimate being at the beginning of the flower cycle. Hope you reap more.
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Old 08-29-2008, 10:54 PM
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hopefully i get enugh to fill one or two of these..




haha ;)
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Old 08-29-2008, 11:20 PM
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Smile

Soooo,

You're expecting 2 x 50k = 100k.

I'd say this is for sure. If ya keep shoveling the bulls**t like that this little 'un just might do it for ya!!





Later,
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Old 08-30-2008, 01:36 AM
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so more manure = 100k ?
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Old 11-16-2008, 03:53 AM
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With out knowing what kind of light, it's hard to say. But I'm guessing CFL. If so, 20-30g. If you are using either HPS or MH, then maybe 1.5-2oz.
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Old 01-06-2009, 07:30 PM
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Contributed by Sun is Shining
09-22-2003

How much will I yield?


A common inquiry. From ambitious new gardeners and for good reason too. But, this is really a loaded question that doesn't have a definite answer. It seems one of the first assumptions by new gardeners is that loads of light automatically equals loads of buds. Unfortunately, it's just not that simple. Yield is equally contingent on a number of factors; light, temperature, humidity, water, nutrients, CO2/ventilation, genetics, etc. Think of it as an engine, with each factor of cultivation representing a single piston, sure the engine will run if some of the cylinders are misfiring or not firing at all, but to yield the most power from that engine, all cylinders must be firing in sync and at maximum capacity.


Temperature. Most cannabis plants will slow or cease growth when temp's get above 85F, or below 65f. Optimal lights-on temp for most strains is about 72-78F, with 5-10 degrees cooler during the dark period being a good rule of thumb.


Humidity. Cannabis does best around 45%-55% RH (relative humidity).
During veg and late flower, however letting it drop lower during the final two weeks of flower is advised, as it will help prevent mould problems.


Water/moisture. Cannabis generally doesn't like "wet feet", or a soggy environment, so it's very important to have a fast draining soil/soil-less mix (or well aerated solution in a hydro garden). Wet or damp conditions can also lead to mould problems during flowering.


Nutrients. Cannabis will require a variety of nutrients at varying NPK ratios during its existence. NPK stand for; nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K)-the three major nutrients used by plants. Simply put, your plants will need a fertilizer with more N than P and K during vegetative growth and fertilizer with more P than N and K during flowering. Using any well-known quality fertilizer applied per instruction @ ½ strength is a good place to start. Organic, chemical, or somewhere in-between is another choice to be made and is a totally personal one. There is a plethora of fertilizers on the market, but the best fertilizer is the one that's used properly.


CO2/ventilation. Plants require CO2. There is sufficient CO2 in our atmosphere to support massive bud growth, but when growing inside you must either have adequate ventilation (the volume of the room exhausted at least once/5 minutes) to ensure that there is a constant supply of fresh, CO2 enriched air or one must have supplemental CO2, which requires higher temp's and more nutrients to be utilized effectively.


Light. Typically, the more the merrier, but more light will create stronger water, nutrient, and CO2 demands on the plants. You must also have the proper spectrum of lighting as well as a means of efficiently reflecting as much of the light as possible into the garden\'s canopy. The norm is to use more bluish light (Metal Halide, cool-white fluorescents) for vegetative growth and more reddish (High Pressure sodium, warm fluoro's) light for flowering. Though it's possible to grow great buds under fluorescent lighting and a few will even argue their superiority to HID's, most indoor growers use High Intensity Discharge lights such as MH and HPS, and many use fluoro's for vegetative growth and HPS for flowering. It's very important to have the light as physically close to the canopy as possible without burning the foliage and still allowing for even coverage.Many new growers believe that "Droppin the light" closer to the plant will be beneficial. Besides heat stress, the bulb puts out radiant energy that causes leaf burn (Note it is possible to complete a grow using just HPS or MH)


Genetics. Its an easily overlooked factor. Some strains simply have the potential to yield more than others. Having a heavy-yielding strain doesn't automatically equal big yields, either. It only means that the potential for heavy yields is there. The grower must provide the optimum environment for that particular strain in order for it to be able to reach it's yield potential, and each strain has slightly unique requirements. Also, within a strain there are usually several phenotypes, each of which will exhibit unique characteristics which is to say that some pheno\'s of a particular strain will weigh more than others.


Plant/root/container size. Obviously, the longer a plant is veg'd, the bigger it will get and the more it will yield. Almost always overlooked because they're unseen are the roots. Root mass is directly related to bud production. Simply put, the more roots you have the more bud you will (potentially) have. Be sure to always allow plenty of space for the roots to grow and spread out, even more-so in soil A general rule of thumb is 1 gallon of soil for every foot of plant height.


System.
Scrog/Sog/Vertical gardens
These systems have a higher g/w/time yield than comparable large plant system over the same time period.



Grower's skill. Growers can add yield by: using additives (like B1, kelp, enzymes), foliar feeding, and topping/FIM/


In addition. Tricks like keeping nutrients and the air temps warm during night cycle can help final yield. Although it's a topic of hot debate, it's generally thought that any system that supplies the roots with maximum oxygen (aeroponics) would outperform a system that restricts 02 input such as (soil).
So, as you can see there's much more to yield than throwing some plants under tons of light with tons of nutes. Before one becomes too concerned with yield, one must first learn how to grow plants well, learn how to "listen" to the plants and give them just what they need. It's best to start with simpler methods, in fact, I think the simpler method is always the better one. Learn how to grow strong, healthy, fast-growing plants and the yields will come.
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Old 01-07-2009, 08:54 AM
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spot on mogie,
but even after many harvests it Is a question than pops up, every time...
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Old 02-02-2009, 11:59 PM
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Although I'm a NOOB here, I like Mogie have had many harvests. And while I agree about some of his points, I disagree very much with others!
1. Marijuana does very well with "wet feet". Many varieties can be very healthy and produce very well in wet conditions, provided the soil is light enough. In the wild, Marijuana grows near creeks and streams, in gullies, etc.
2. Marijuana can thrive, and even do better, when temperatures are between 85 and 100 degrees. This is absolutely true outdoors--just look at the wild hemp in the Midwest of the US, or ask your grandfather about good old Mexican pot like Acapulco Gold. The reason it sometimes doesn't do well in high temps indoors is because there can be excessive humidity, or lack of circulation, inadequate water, etc. When it's hot, pot needs a lot of water--containers dry out rapidly. The plant will transpire rapidly, and that water vapor must be moved away from the plant.
Personally, I like the buds in my flower room to be at 85 degrees. I like the canopy of my grow room to be at 90 degrees.
3. Burning the foliage. I like to burn a little foliage in the last four weeks of flower. That tells me the lights are a little too close--but an inch further away, they're perfect. Our lights fall off in intensity so rapidly, I don't like a little burn to scare me! For one thing, in order to get high yields, I am giving the plants as much food as they can handle. But because the leaves closest to the lights are transpiring the most, a few of them will get over fertilized, and thus burn, even when the lower parts of the plant are getting just the right amount.
Basically, Mogie's comments are right on, in that experience and skill are what leads to success and high yields. But I'd like to suggest that a good deal of the commonly accepted wisdom about what works growing MJ is subject to careful, skeptical re-examination. I know that I saved a substantial amount of time and work, and have done very well for myself, by tossing most of the "common knowledge" in the waste basket!
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Old 03-23-2009, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
It's very important to have the light as physically close to the canopy as possible without burning the foliage and still allowing for even coverage.Many new growers believe that "Droppin the light" closer to the plant will be beneficial. Besides heat stress, the bulb puts out radiant energy that causes leaf burn (Note it is possible to complete a grow using just HPS or MH)
How close can you put a HID light to plants. I keep about 8", but i can control the temp. Yo said it puts out radiant energy. How does this affect my plants?
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Old 03-23-2009, 12:31 PM
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im not here to help you questimate yeild, im just wondering where you got those awesome bags. I WANT ONE!!! lol.
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Old 03-23-2009, 12:37 PM
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No idea on the yield, but that is one nice plant.
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