I'm going to use this pyrethrum TR bomb today that I got from the local grow shop. I need to switch things up from the neem that the mites have probably developed a resistance to. I started seeing mite damage in the leaves yesterday. I usually dunk them in a 10 gal. garbage can full of the neem solution so I don't have to spray every single leaf down over and under. Considering I have a lot of plants, spraying and dunking just takes too much time. I wonder if I can get get a fog maching that will release the miticide, pesticide, or fungicide in the room. That would be great. I never used one of these bomb so please give me any tips or advice you might have before I do it. Thanks.

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I have seen Thermal foggers at home depot/lowes they use a propane torch can and would give you a good penetration of chemical.
I used the Pyre fogger bombs,put all my girls in the tub and set off bomb in bathroom LOL Little buggers.The Mrs say's I should use Murphy's oil soap and dunk em like you do...


Peace

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WAS MOSE'S REALLY SPEAKING TO A BURNING BUSH???
OR WAS IT ONLY SMOKING???

sounds like ur infested with mites and webs? its hard to ever control them as bad as u got um those bombs taste like chemical bombs man now once you get started over use neem oil and castillios hemp soap solutoion this is what i use mix 3 tsp neem oil with 1 tsp castillio hemp soap (health food store is where i git them both)put some hot water in sprayer (i use a 40 oz fill half full hot water to mix oil and soap then fill it up with distilled water) then spray shake and spray undeerside of leafs shake and spray shake and spray do it every 4 days until 2 to 3 weeks before harvest my plants are looking good and im not looking for something to kill mites PREVENTION

I agree... prevention is the key. Mites are as common as the housefly. You aren't going to get lucky and not get mites in most climates. If you wait for an infestation you are asking to stunt your plants. We use SM-90 to control our pest problems. It's not a poison... it is plant food with the desirable effect of killing mites and other pests along with molds and fungus. Great stuff!

Please READ ALL of my post before you post a reply. Thanks

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The bomb will knock them down but it won't rid the room of them. Also, be careful stirring things up in there for awhile. The particles from the bomb land on everything and will irritate your throat if you breathe them in.

Azatrol will give em hell too. Hydro stores should have it.

good luck in the battle

btdt

But these guys are very similar


Peace

__________________
Aging is GODs way of telling us there's no time to waste...

WAS MOSE'S REALLY SPEAKING TO A BURNING BUSH???
OR WAS IT ONLY SMOKING???

I used the bomb and followed with a treatment of SM-90 in the res. It seemed to have knocked them down pretty good. I haven't seen any more mite damage anywhere. I will definitely stay on the preventives because just when you think they're gone they start popping their tiny little heads back out. Now I also have to deal with the fungus gnat plague that's going around.

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Adult fungus gnats are tiny black flies which spend time running around on the surfaces and sucking sap from the leaves. After the adults lay their eggs on the soil (medium), the young worm-like larvae hatch out and begin to feed upon the roots. The larvae initially eat the fine root hairs before moving on to burrow throughout the larger roots and even up into the stems. After feasting on the roots the larvae will pupate before hatching out as adults and repeating the life cycle by laying their eggs. The larvae resemble little worms. They have clear or white bodies with black heads.

Life cycle: Adults live about 7 to 10 days and deposit eggs on the moist soil surface or in soil cracks. Females lay up to 100 to 300 eggs in batches of 2 to 30 each in decaying organic matter. Eggs hatch in 4 to 6 days; larvae feed for 12 to 14 days. The pupal stage is about 5 to 6 days.

Damage from the fungus gnat larvae feeding on the roots shows up in the leaves as overfertilization and nutrient deficiency symptoms: yellowing, browning, burning and curling leaves.

Three fungus gnat larvae biocontrol agents:

Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis (Bti) bacteria which can be purchased as mosquito dunks or gnatrol. Bti is the most appropriate anti gnat biological control agent for DWC systems.

Hypoaspis mites.

Steinernema feltiae nematodes.

Occasionally a dry layer of sand is recommended as a deterrent to fungus gnats. This technique should be discouraged as the close packing nature of the sand particles reduces the quantity of oxygen which penetrates down into the root zone

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Azatrol is a good fungus gnat control agent. The active ingredient, azdirachtin, is a pesticide that is refined from neem oil.
Azatrol does not act by killing adult gnats. It prevents the larvae (which live in the soil or media) from molting, therefore they cannot become adults, lay eggs, and reproduce. You have to wet the top 1 or 2 inches of the media by spraying the top of your container or rockwool block. It's a good idea to kill the adults with pyrethrum spray at the same time, and to set out yellow sticky traps to catch survivors.
Azatrol is only fair as a control agent for spider mites. A much better choice is Floramite, one of several chemical miticides that specifically target mites, and not insects. Floramite is primarily used on ornamentals in commercial greenhouses, but is approved for use on tomatoes up to the day of harvest. Other agents like this are Forbid, Avid, and Tetrasan. These should only be applied once in each cycle to prevent mites from developing resistance. The currently active mites seem to be quite resistant to Avid, and somewhat resistant to Forbid. Floramite has been extremely effective of late.