Ventilation, Circulation and Exhaust
What is the most important factor for a successful indoor grow?
Is it lighting? Is it nutrients? Is it Genetics? Is it your growing method and medium? What do the above items all have in common?
Many are personal choices made by the grower, and can easily be “mixed and matched”.
Another thing that they all have in common is, without proper
ventilation and
circulation, they are all moot.
Fresh air is essential in
all gardens.
One more time,
Fresh air is essential in all gardens.
The key factors in having a successful grow and harvest is to understand how a plant produces food and grows.
Cannabis needs light, air, water, food, heat and a medium to grow in. Without these items, growth stops and the plant will die.
When the above criteria are optimized, vigorous growth and bountiful yields are sure to follow.
So, I’m sure the question on everyone’s mind at this point is,
“When am I going to talk about ventilation”?
First, let’s touch on the broad strokes of how cannabis or almost every other plant metabolizes food.
PHOTOSYNTHISIS (the short version)
Carbon dioxide and Oxygen are the two components that allow photosynthetic plant life to take place.
Carbon dioxide and light energy combine to create sugars (carbohydrates); these sugars are the fuel for the plant.
Oxygen is used to metabolize the carbohydrates and other nutrients and minerals, through the process of respiration to provide energy for growth.
Without carbon dioxide or oxygen, photosynthesis can not take place, ergo “dead plant”.
Transpiration
One process of the photosynthesis is
transpiration.
This is equivalent to humans exhaling.
A ten foot square grow area can use between ten and fifty gallons of water a week.
During transpiration, much of this water is released into the air.
Without proper ventilation to remove this moisture, the relative humidity will quickly reach one hundred percent, which in turn will slow plant growth and allow a perfect environment for pest and disease attacks.
“Air ventilation and circulation are essential to a healthy indoor harvest. Indoors, fresh air is one of the most overlooked factors contributing to a healthy garden and a bountiful harvest” Jorge Cervantes: The Indoor/Outdoor MEDICAL GROWER’S BIBLE OK! Let’s discuss Ventilation and Circulation.
DEFINITIONS (Merriam Webster) Ventilation:
1
: the act or process of
ventilating
2 a
: circulation of air <a room with good
ventilation>
2 b
: the circulation and exchange of gases in the lungs or gills that is basic to respiration
3
: a system or means of providing fresh air
Circulation:
1
: orderly movement through a
circuit
2
: flow
3 a
: passage or transmission from person to person or place to place
Exhaust
2 a
: to draw off or let out completely
2 b
: to empty by drawing off the contents;
specifically: to create a vacuum in
For our purposes
Ventilation will refer to the removal of stale hot air, and replenishment of cool dry air.
Circulation will refer to the movement of existing air within the grow room.
Exhaust will refer to the stale, hot air, and the ductwork used to remove it.
1. Circulation - Hot air rises.
- Cold air descends.
Without circulation to mix these two air masses together, the grow room air becomes
stratified, meaning the air remains in its respective layers. Hot air up top, cool air on the bottom and stagnant air surrounding your plants leaves.
Plants will consume the carbon dioxide around their leaves in just a mater of minutes, without some form of
circulation to replace the depleted air with carbon dioxide rich air, a
“dead air zone” will form that can bring growth to a halt.
The movement of air in the room also causes increased cellulose growth, thereby strengthening the plant itself, making the need for additional support less likely.
Circulation also helps prevent insect infestation and potential fungus growth.
Choose an oscillating fan(s) that fits your project size to maintain circulation.
Don’t expect your
circulation fan to push air out of your grow room.
A vent fan can
pull air out of a room four times more efficiently than a fan can
push it out.
*ALL GROW ROOMS REQUIRE VENTILATION*
2. Ventilation
A vent fan will
pull this humid, stagnant air from the grow area. The very action of extracting this stale air from the grow area causes fresh, cool, dry air to be drawn in through the
passive intake vent(s) (
via negative pressure).
Exhaust fans should be mounted as high up (
hot air rises), and as far away from the passive intake as possible.
The passive intake(s) should be located as close to the floor and as far away from the exhaust outlet as possible
(cold air descends, and so does carbon dioxide). Passive intake vents are just that,
passive. It is just a fancy way to say “hole”.
The rule of thumb for determining
the size of passive intake vent(s) is at a minimum twice the area of your exhaust outlet.
So, if you are using a six inch exhaust fan,
the smallest passive intake opening has to measure twelve inches in area. This can be a three by four inch opening, or two six inch diameter holes or any reasonable combination therein.
*Under certain circumstances fresh air may have to be delivered via an
intake fan.
The only difference between the fans is that an intake fan
blows (positive pressure) and an exhaust fan
sucks (negative pressure). * Sealed, near airtight rooms, usually found in larger grows using carbon dioxide enrichment will have to have fresh air introduced with an intake fan. Other times, rooms may be too distant from the fresh air source to draw it in passively. When using a powered intake, the CFM ratio is 1 to 4, if you use a four hundred CFM exhaust fan, your intake should be no more than one hundred CFM. This allows for a slight negative pressure within the room.
Now that we know
why we need an intake/exhaust system, let’s talk about
how we might install one.
With only minor variations, these statements will apply if you are growing in a computer case or a thousand square foot out building.
The first thing you need to do is determine the area of your grow room. This is done with a very simple formula.
Length x Width (Depth) x Height = Total Volume
So, a cabinet grow may be: 4’ x 2’ x 6’ = 48 cubic feet of total volume.
The figure of
total volume will be used in deciding the CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) rate of the fan you need.
The minimum requirement for proper air exchange is for the fan to
remove the total volume of air once every five minutes. Remember this is the minimum rating that the fan can be.
There are a number of factors that will affect the actual CFM rating of the fan that will be best for your room. Fan type and diameter, type of filter (if any), type and length of ductwork, these and other factors will be discussed in the next section.
3. Exhaust
This section will discuss the
exhaust portion of your ventilation system, from the grow room to the exit point.
Your choice of ducting and the way you are able to route it will greatly affect the actual volume of air your fan will move.
Cheap dryer or bathroom vent flex duct offers the most resistance to airflow (
bad), and needs to be stretched tight to reduce backpressure.
Smooth galvanized duct or PVC offers the least resistance (
good) of any of the materials (that’s why it’s used in home HVAC systems).
There are a number of things to be considered when installing your ductwork.
Ideally you want your runs to be as short and bend free as possible.
Keep these figures in mind as you plan out the path of your ductwork.
A)A thirty degree bend reduces airflow by twenty (20%) percent.
B)A forty-five degree bend can reduce airflow by forty (40%) percent.
C)And a ninety degree bend can reduce airflow by sixty (60%) percent.
D)A fifteen (15’) foot section of flexible dryer vent can reduce airflow by as much as fifty (50%).
E)Light baffles and screens and filters used on passive intake vents will also reduce airflow albeit a negligible amount, still all factors should be considered.
The use of activated carbon filters will further reduce the efficiency of your vent fan, all these variable need to be taken into account
before deciding what
type and
size fan to purchase
These are big numbers and can not be ignored when planning your exhaust system. As is the case with most things, foresight and proper planning will really pay off.
.
Point of exit
When you finally reach the end of your exhaust system you want to be sure that the exhausted gasses do not create a
safety or
security issue.
Safety
Because your exhaust air will be high in humidity, make sure there is ample room for the humidity to dissipate. If venting outdoors this is not an issue, but if venting into a confined space with inadequate ventilation, humidity could build up causing damage to wood framing or even exposed electrical wiring.
Security
The most obvious sign of a grow room being vented is the odor (during flowering cycle). If you are using a activated carbon filter in your grow room or introduce ONA (odor neutralizing agent) at some point along the path of your exhaust, odor should not be a problem. If possible place the exhaust twelve (12’) feet above ground level. This allows the odors to dissipate above peoples heads.
However, if you do use an activated carbon filter you will need to maintain a relative humidity of
no more than fifty (50%) percent. When RH levels begin to rise above that, filter efficacy is reduced.
Heat and light signatures should also be avoided.
It seems that even the smallest of police agencies has thermal imaging technology these days. If you live in a state or country that does not allow the cultivation of marijuana, take steps to avoid these signatures exiting your exhaust.
Venting to an existing chimney will address both problems at once.
Modest sized grow rooms vented into an attic space can usually diffuse a heat signature well enough (a homes attic will always show a heat bloom anyways), venting exhaust into a crawlspace under the house or even tying into a basement sewer tap are both effective for masking thermal images.
The very first thing you should buy for your grow room is an accurate thermometer. Accurate digital thermometers are very affordable these days, when you purchase one, try to get one that has the ability to record maximum/minimum temperatures as well as humidity levels. These upper/lower temperature readings are very important to the health of your grow.