The Knowledge project-CONTEST 2 -Propagation - Over - GreenPassion.org - Dedicated to Medicinal Cannabis Cultivation and Education

knowledgeproject · #1 (**permalink**) 06-01-2009, 07:54 AM

Welcome to the second installment of the Knowledge Project.

The Topic for this month is: Propagation

We at Green Passion welcome, and appeal, to all members, new and old, to share with us your tips and secrets regarding the propagation of this wonderful plant.
The original idea for this contest was to create a Knowledge Data Base to help teach, and answer newcomer’s questions.
The winning entries will become part of a FAQ for beginners.
This is to be part of our permanent knowledge data base. The principles behind this are what are to be explained and they are to TEACH all these concepts.

Please read this and understand, this is for all of our benefit and to pass forward wisdom, and is not only about the simplest explanation but the most COMPLETE AND CLEAR teaching reference, original to the submitter of the entry, with original text etc. be it sprouting seed, cloning, re-vegetation or even grafting.

The importance of this project goes far beyond any prizes offered (although the prizes are very generous). Everyone has something to offer, it will be the diversity of information from our members that will create a powerful data base.
Don’t assume your ideas do not have merit. If we all contribute, we can’t help but create a powerful learning tool that will benefit us all.
Some of the best ideas started out written on napkins with an eye liner pencil.
Please, help us, help others, and remember, there are no wrong answers.

We humbly await your entries.

Winning entries will be judged on the following criteria:

1. Originality...this is not the time for cut and paste jobs: Diagrams are good especially if you Make them yourself, but don't let that limit you.

2. Reliability....we want tried and true methods based on experience and knowledge...not speculation on advanced techniques

3. Ease of Use...please assume little or no previous knowledge or experience on the part of the reader...organize your info in as practical a way as possible and for goodness sake, please use helpful pictures, diagrams, tables, and graphs as needed.

An ideal entry will be such that most “noob” questions will be clarified with not just quick fixes but knowledge. Clarify important concepts so that the new grower can learn to make informed choices.

A panel of mods will judge the posts which are due by June 30th. We recognize that there are different, useful approaches to these matter, and so may select more than one entry to be a permanent selection if
"The GP Hall of Fame"

This contest will run thru the month Of June ,ending on the last day of the month. At this time our judges will select a winner.
A seed pack Of Swazi Red from http://www.highgrade-seeds.com/ will be the prize

Swazi Red

100% Sativa
Indoor/Outdoor/GreenhouseDirect from Africa comes this pure African landrace sativa! Swazi Red is a high yielding and resinous sativa which produces a strong natural high. This strain has a strong odour which has been compared to a fine cigar with an "earthy" smoke and a high that is energetic and clear. The colas on this plant can reach the size of an adult's forearm and are typically compact and very sticky. This famous strain is renowned for its spectacular red color at maturity. 100% pure African landrace sativa! Height: 4 to 5 ft
Flowering Time: 13 weeks
Yield: 3 to 4 oz per plant

People, Grab your cameras and start typing your entries pertaining to Propagation.
Best of luck to all of you,Have fun...
Green Passion

Shinningwind · #2 (**permalink**) 06-01-2009, 10:13 AM

This month's topic is awesome.

Highgrade has generously offered up a packet of Swazi Red for June's contest . This is a new strain he just introduced to his seed line up just over a month ago.

Swazi Red

100% Sativa
Indoor/Outdoor/GreenhouseDirect from Africa comes this pure African landrace sativa! Swazi Red is a high yielding and resinous sativa which produces a strong natural high. This strain has a strong odour which has been compared to a fine cigar with an "earthy" smoke and a high that is energetic and clear. The colas on this plant can reach the size of an adult's forearm and are typically compact and very sticky. This famous strain is renowned for its spectacular red color at maturity. 100% pure African landrace sativa! Height: 4 to 5 ft
Flowering Time: 13 weeks
Yield: 3 to 4 oz per plant

Marijuana Seeds - Highest Quality Marijuana Seeds Online

This is a very interesting topic & We have great confidence, that you all will come up with some great picture's and step by step info for the new growers and the not so new growers.

Good luck to all

Have Fun People...

Richard Owl Mirror · #3 (**permalink**) 06-01-2009, 11:41 AM

I'm a dirt farmer and I therefore begin my seeds in a 16 ounce Beer cup.
I may soak the seed for 24 hours in a shot glass of dechlorinated water but, it isn't entirely necessary. When planting your seed, simply make a shallow depression in the center of the soil about 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep. Then simply place the seed inside the depression and sprinkle some soil over the top of the seed enough to fill over the top. I have found it doesn't matter what direction the seed is facing, pointy end up/down, etc. although I lay it on it's side.
Roots use gravity to determine which direction they should grow in.
You must be careful when watering at this stage so, I use a spray bottle which mists the soil without putting any pressure on the soil that might move the soil or seed around before it begins to germinate.
I also use the same cup with my clones, placing another cup over the clones inverted so as to provide a humidity dome of sorts for the first few weeks.
I place my cups with seed or clone inside a storage tub I have made which has (6) 23 watt cfl bulbs attached to the top. This allows the seedling enough light to begin growing.
I also place the growing cup with drain holes inside another intact beer cup so as to catch the water which drains for easier removal and it also allows for diffusing the light more so as it doesn't directly effect the roots.
When the seedling or clone begins producing it's root system, I determine when it's time to transplant by viewing the roots progress and when they begin to emerge through the drain holes in the bottom of the cup, I know it's time to transplant them to the next size container.
Next, I transplant the seedlings from the beer cup to a two liter pop bottle which has had it's top cut off as shown. Fill the empty pop bottle until approximately 4 inches from the top or, the size of the beer cup in height. Be sure to cut some water drainage holes in the bottom of the pop bottle before filling with soil.
Carefully ease the root ball and soil out of the beer cup by gently squeezing the sides until it is released. Holding the cup, upside-down, gently lift the empty cup off the roots, taking care to not damage any roots that have made there way out of the drain holes. I find that refraining from watering for a day or three prior to transplanting firms up the soil inside the cup, making for an easier transfer of an intact root ball.
Gently lower the soil-encased root ball down in to the center of the pop bottle. Center the plug and begin to fill in around the edges with soil. I tamp down the soil around the edges, filling the gap as best as possible until the soil level is approximately 3/4 inch from the top of the bottle. I leave this space so that when watering, the water has a space to pool while it soaks in to the soil as evenly as possible.
After a few weeks of vegging, the plant in the pop bottle will soon repeat the process that took place with the root system growing the length of the bottle and beginning to emerge through the drain holes.
At that time is when I would transplant to the eventual size pot that the plant will be flowered in through harvest. The stage at which you are ready for transplanting from the pop bottle could also be the time when you transplant the plants outdoors if that is how you will be finishing your ladies.
The eventual size of the final container is determined by how large you intend you plant to become. The depth of the pop bottle is around 8-10 inches so, this is the length of your root system at time of transplanting. It fits nicely inside a 2 gallon pot yet, it will be bottomed out and no further expansion of the root system will occur because it has nowhere to grow. Placing the pop bottle plug in a 5 gallon pot gives the roots much more room to grow downwards, which will in turn allow your plant to grow upwards.
Most plants height is equal to the depth of the root system. At least during the vegetation stage. If your roots are 12 inches deep, the plant should also be about 12 inches high.
Once you have selected your final size pot, it's time to place the plant inside the flowering chamber and put it under a 12/12 light cycle then, be patient as you plant grows and begins to produce those lovely flowers.

I haven't included information regarding nutrients simply because that topic is so wide-ranging and diverse, what I do isn't necessarily what you will do. My soil and nute use may differ vastly from what is available to you, either geographically or financially.
Same goes for light systems.
Personally, I have three chambers. The first is my storage box filled with (6) 23 watt cfl bulbs. The next veg chamber consists of (2) 300 watt CFL bulbs inside reflectors, inside a stand alone closet/cabinet and thirdly, I have a 400 watt HPS light inside my closet used for flowering.
Your needs may differ and your mileage may vary.

All of the above instructions are geared towards producing the healthiest root system you can for your plant. I believe caring for the root system in the beginning of any grow project is the most important issue as that will determine how healthy your plant grows during flowering.
In the above tutorial, I neglected to mention topping your plant to increase the possible bud sites. Personally, I only top my plant once and, this occurs about the time the plant has FIVE true leaf nodes. About this time is when the plant will begin changing over from immature status to mature status. This is observed by the new leave sites begining to alternate along the stem. In the early stages, the leaves grow opposite each other, eventually they will begin to alternate, one above the other. If you time this right, at the fifth node the result will be the next set of growth being alternating pattern and this will increase the number of bud sites the branches form when flowering.

Please review the attached photo's of this process.

Shinningwind · #4 (**permalink**) 06-01-2009, 11:58 AM

Awesome......... Way to go Richard... Nice picture's

Great Job...

Mr.Moonbiscuit · #5 (**permalink**) 06-01-2009, 11:58 AM

ok everyone richard has set the bar, now dont let this throw you off, we still would like to hear everyones, remember this is a competition.
richard kudos to you for your wonderful entry.

ileso · #6 (**permalink**) 06-01-2009, 12:03 PM

would you do it in video for me?

Richard Owl Mirror · #7 (**permalink**) 06-01-2009, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ileso

would you do it in video for me?

While I am willing, I am unable as I do not own a video camera.
Actually, my digital camera does have a function for video but, it's limited in length due to memory and battery life.
Also, I live alone and I would need another to hold the camera while I demonstrated.
I'll see if somehow I could produce something in video, just can't promise much at this time.

pine boy · #8 (**permalink**) 06-01-2009, 12:35 PM

Great post Richard Owl Mirror.Thats the way to do it. We have the whole month but lets not wait for the final hour.Y'all get your entries together.
Previous tutorial ARE allowed as we have some really good content on the site. Submit them here.

Pullo · #9 (**permalink**) 06-01-2009, 02:01 PM

Hey Richard,

Nice entry.
I have a question about your lighting.
I have never seen a 300 watt CFL, who is the manufacture, and where were you able to find them?
Also, what is the "storage box" used for?
Thanks,

Pullo

Richard Owl Mirror · #10 (**permalink**) 06-01-2009, 04:53 PM

I found the bulbs at HomeDepot, they are manufactured by FEIT Co.
Here is a photo of them when I was constructing the light for my cabinet.

The storage box are those plastic boxes which can be found most anywhere to store just about anything. They vary in size but, most cost below $10

Pullo · #11 (**permalink**) 06-01-2009, 04:58 PM

I use some of those for color, they are not 300 watts though, they are 68 watts, and one of the better cfl values out there.

Richard Owl Mirror · #12 (**permalink**) 06-01-2009, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pullo

I use some of those for color, they are not 300 watts though, they are 68 watts, and one of the better cfl values out there.

I'm just going by what it said on the box. They do a good job either way.
I have seen others promoted as 200 watt & 250 watt CFL's

plug and grow lamps

ileso · #13 (**permalink**) 06-05-2009, 01:02 PM

Propagation Part 1

To sprout i use a common and simple method. If pressured i will use other methods including direct in soil. but this is my personaly prefered method. it works well for me.

materials:
moist cotton wool.
a container
seeds.

once the tap root apears i put them in soil. pointy end up and about 5mm under good soil.

ileso · #14 (**permalink**) 06-05-2009, 02:00 PM

Propagation Part 2

The method i use here depends an variable factors and i have developed two seperate methods depending on these. basically the variation is wether or not i have alot of time to care for them or they will need to rough it out by themselves from the start.

materials:
5L water bottles. (smaller 1.5L can be used for individual plants.)
soil mix
cardboard
sprouted seeds. (taproot visible)

- propagator type 1:

cut a single bottle at soil height around three sides leaving one joined as a hinge. using cardboard seperators on not fill it with moist soil.. plant sprouted beans. also cut 1cm high windows in the sides for air circulation.
now close the top and tape around to join both halves. leave the cap off and water through the air holes. a portable greenhouse.

- propagator type 2:

the big difference here is that it is infact a hempy (i only recently found out there was a name for this). the soil is watered through the capilary effect of the soil and paper stopper in the bottom of the pot. with this method i can keep them alive for up to 2 weeks without watering in full sunlight if the need arises. you will get some slime in the reservoir but they wont die. especially if everything is well sealed once again with masking tape to minimise evaporation.

notes:

i prefer the 5L large water bottles because they are more compact and i can fit 6 seeds in each.
with this method because the bottles have handles they are easy to transport. also to take to the final plot i can easily fit 2 of these bulk things in a backpack. for me thats a total of 12 vegging plants going to ground in one setting.

sometimes i dont use seperators between seedlings. the only problem is that the roots interwine and i cant let them grow too much or they wont seperate. often i will have to pull or tear the rootballs from one another. i have found that surprisingly the plants dont even flinch. once in the open soil they just stretch away as though nothing happened. so dont worry if you have to pull roots apart and they rip and tear.

another thing is with type 2. the roots will grow out the bottom into the reservoir. dont worry about this. its normal. they wont be in there very much longer anyway.

one more point is that often i will have to cut the actual plastic bottles to get the rootballs out undisturbed. i have no problems with it, i find it normal with all the ribs and shapes the bottles have. once im through with them its to the recycling bin with the plastic.

ileso · #15 (**permalink**) 06-05-2009, 02:12 PM

Propagation part 3

last but not least into the soil!
i like to prepare my soil a month or so in advance.. about the same time the seedlings sprout. during the last rains. preferably around the end of february for me.

i dig a 60cm x 60cm hole roughly. throw a bit of manure in the bottom and leave it until i need to plant. the soil i removed i prepare by taking out weeds, roots and rocks. i them mix in chicken manure and any other manure i might have.

with the manures if i will need the hole urgently i use dry manure. if the soil is to stand for a month or so waiting for the seedlings i dont mind hot manure as it will go cold in the rain and sun till its needed.

when i finally decide to plant i back fill the hole with the prepared soil put in the seedling at the apropriate height and fill to the top. i leave a circular rise around the plants and in the depression ptu logs and branches to protect the soil from evapotation.

if needed and the plants dont fit in a plastic bottle protection i use branches to cover the plants from frosts. i use 3 leafy branches of the same size, jabe em in the ground and join the tips above the plant. this protects them from frost and prying eyes...

happy growing everyone. hope it helps. keep it simple

ileso · #16 (**permalink**) 06-05-2009, 02:17 PM

what i didnt mention in the previous posts was the water i suse for the seedlings at least until the third set of leaves. i use water in which i soaked lawn clippings overnight. i dont know why but the seedlings thrive on the stuff.

Shinningwind · #17 (**permalink**) 06-05-2009, 02:30 PM

Way to go Ileso. Great posts. Love the diagrams....

I just may use your branch technique this weekend. Hope to put some in the ground. Weather still quite unpredictable

The HSIC · #18 (**permalink**) 06-07-2009, 04:08 AM

Propagation is, simply, the reproduction of a given plant.

Some of the methods are; Layering, Seeding, Division, Grafting and Cuttings.

I will be speaking to Cuttings aka Cloning.

Q: Why should I clone?
A: To preserve a given strain/plant when no more seeds are available, and perhaps most important,
cloning is a key element in the continuous grow cycle.

Q: What is a clone?
A: A clone is just that. An exact copy of the parent.

Q: When can I take a clone?
A: Best results occur when clones are taken from a mature plant.

Q: How can I tell if my plant is mature?
A: The side nodes/growth/branches will change from symmetrical to staggered growth.

clonehow2b-1

Q: What do I need to clone?
A: Clean basic supplies would include your preferred rooting powder/gel,
a razor blade or other sharp blade, bowl or glass of rinse water
and a clean work surface.

clonehow1-2

Q: Where do I take the clones?
A: Any healthy offshoot will do.

clonehow2-3

At this point you can induce slight variations in the child plants by taking the
clones from different locations on the mother plant.

-Cuttings from the bottom 1/3 of the mother tend to
root a little slower and produce a bushier plant.
-Cuttings from the middle 1/3 of the mother tend to
closely match the parent in growth pattern and rate.
-Cuttings from the top 1/3 of the mother tend to
root a little slower and produce a branchy plant.

Q: How do I take and prepare the clone?
A: Simply cut the chosen branch/shoot from the mother plant, trim the
growth at the lower node(s) and set in the rinse water(room temperature).
Chose a method and prepare the clone stem as follows;

clonehow3-4

Be sure to immediately coat all wounds with gel or powder.

How to build and use a bubble cloner:

clonehow5-5

Be sure the root area is totally dark. Use a FINE airstone to create a
soft bubbling water surface.
Neoprene inserts/clone holders are reusable.

Positioning the clones:

clonehow4-6

If the stem is too low or too high(like me), slime/rot may form.
Water temps above 80 deg will cause a 'bloom' in the water as
microbes grow. Water will become cloudy. I use a heater that
sits totally underwater, but a heat mat will do the job.

Above, indirect, weak light(diffused) 24/7 is used.
Too much light will cause the clones to continue pushing foliage.
Keep humidity below 95% to avoid fungus/rot.
Keep the temperature and Hu consistent and constant.

clonehow6-7

5 to 21 days later:

clonehow7-8

Transfer the clones to the growing medium of your choice.
If they droop after transplanting, a plastic picnic cup makes
a good Hu dome. Mist the inside of the cup NOT the clone.
Depending on conditions where you are, an Hu dome may not
be needed at all.

clonehow8-9

Once they take hold and start to push new growth, they can
be fed, flowered or cloned again as they are already 'mature'.

You are now the proud owner of 2 to 100's of your favorite girl.
The world will never be the same

As always, your results WILL vary but I find this the most
consistant method.

jangel · #19 (**permalink**) 06-07-2009, 09:53 AM

thothamon VERY excellent post! Thank you for contributing.

Peace

Shinningwind · #20 (**permalink**) 06-07-2009, 04:47 PM

thothamon..... Awesome ....

Fabulous job..