Tutorial for a very easy DIY Cloning box - GreenPassion.org - Dedicated to Medicinal Cannabis Cultivation and Education

4evergreen · #1 (**permalink**) 08-15-2009, 10:50 PM

I have found this on the web and I thought others could use it. Here is the info and pictures
The link is: Build a Cloning Box!

Building a "Cloning Box"

Many times the fastest way to get a copy of a plant is to root a cutting rather than plant a seed, and with some plants the *only* way to get a copy is to make cuttings as they're hybrids & don't grow true from seed- If they're able to produce seeds at all.
I've had fairly good luck rooting cuttings in a 'cloning box' I designed. Here's how I did it:
The general idea looks like this:

How to make it? Read on.
First get your parts:
First get a plastic box, not less than 12 inches deep & big enough to hold several pots inside.
a 5 gallon plastic "alhambra" or somesuch water bottle, complete with tight fitting lid.
a few 'cool' or 'warm' white flourescent light bulbs, 'circline' or the coiled ones, what shape depends on how much space you have.
A few feet of "fish tube" or somesuch hose.
One of those "indoor" extention cords that cost about $2 or $3, 9 to 15' long or so.
As many light bulb sockets as you have bulbs- I use ones from levitron, they look like this.
A small clear jar- Like a miniature mayonnaise jar or something.
Yeast & sugar.
Any kind of small pots.. I prefer the 'seed starting' kind with 9 cells just because they're cheap & easy
Vermiculite to fill the pots
Rooting hormone. I use the liquid, but the dry powder works as well.
A 24 hour light timer- they're about $5 at "home" stores.
Putting it together:
Poke a hole in the lid of your big alhambra bottle with a sharp pencil or something- Big enough that you can shove your fish tube through, but small enough that it fits Quite snugly. You don't want your CO2 leaking out around the seal.
Then poke or drill (drilling is better- you get a nicer hole that seals well) 2 holes in the lid of your small jar & shove the hose from the big bottle through one- push it far enough that it almost touches the bottom. You only need 2 feet of hose or so for this run. Take another length of hose & push an end through the other hole- but just enough that it goes through & stays in well.
When the yeast & sugar in the big bottle are "working" they make carbon dioxide- it's what plants breathe. It will come out the hose & into the little jar- Put some water in there & it'll make bubbles. That's how you can tell it's working. Run the other hose into the cloning box. This makes an elevated CO2 level in the box, much like an oxygen tent for a sick person, your making it easier for the cuttings to breathe.
Make holes in the top of your box big enough for the base of your light bulbs to stick through- I used a 1" "spade" type drill bit. Obviously make as many holes as you have bulbs- and place them equidistant from each other.
Connect the bulb sockets to your extention cord- If you use the levitron plugs it's really easy- Take the cap off the plug, split the wires and stick them into the 'ditches' on the plug:

Put the cap back on & screw it down tight, then when your ready stuff the bottom of the bulb(s) through the lid & screw them into the socket(s).
Cut more holes in the lid to allow for air flow- For the box in the plans I used cardboard tubes as 'chimneys'- As the lights heat the air it rises up the chimney, and drawing air in through the little 1" pipe on the left side. I stuck the CO2 hose into this little pipe so it would mix with the incoming air.
If you want, you don't need 'chimneys', just enough holes in the lid that the hot air can get out & not fry your cuttings.
Put a couple cups of sugar in the big bottle & your yeast package- then fill it almost all the way with water. Shake the dickens out of it to dissolve the sugar & in an hour or so it'll start making your CO2.
You should be almost done- Put the vermiculite in the pots & put a couple inches of water in the bottom of the box- I like to make up a little jar (cup, whatever) of water & rooting hormone & let my cuttings sit in it overnite then put them in the vermiculite- seems to work well.
I set the timer for 18 hours on & 6 off- Or if you want forget the timer & just leave them on all the time. Just check the temp inside the box to be sure it's not getting too hot- if it is you need more or bigger holes, or better chimneys.
Usually within 2 weeks the cuttings are ready to be transplanted into dirt & put outside. I just pull the whole thing vermiculite & all out, make a hole big enough for the whole rootball in the new (dirt filled) pot & stuff it in there.
Often the roots will be growing out the bottom of the pots:

Surely yours will look different, but here's mine, all done:

I'm using 2 boxes by the way, one with a chimney, one without.
If you want you can use spray glue & aluminum foil on the inside walls as a reflector- Keeps more light in and *might* help the cuttings root faster

OMINOUS_ICABOD · #2 (**permalink**) 08-16-2009, 04:47 AM

None of the pics are showing up... Ugghh...
But this sounds awesome!!

OMINOUS_ICABOD · #3 (**permalink**) 08-16-2009, 04:51 AM

I followed the link this is clever indeed....

4evergreen · #4 (**permalink**) 08-16-2009, 06:57 AM

I see the pictures, anybody else having the same problem?
Peace

Mr Tumnus · #5 (**permalink**) 08-16-2009, 10:29 AM

I can't see them either,and I want to try building one,bummer man.

P@ssw0rd · #6 (**permalink**) 08-16-2009, 03:39 PM

Pics show fine for me, Both in the link and in the thread

DieAbetic · #7 (**permalink**) 08-16-2009, 04:17 PM

looks good, i can see all the pics. only thing i would do is get a dark lightproof box (black one maybe then use flat white paint for the inside. or line it with mylar or panda poly plastic

jangel · #8 (**permalink**) 08-16-2009, 06:31 PM

I re-added the pics, 4ever. I just see red X's for the first ones.

The new ones seem to be working.

Peace

4evergreen · #9 (**permalink**) 08-17-2009, 01:31 PM

Thanks J, you are always helping me!
DieAbetic, I TOTALLY agree with you. I would do it with a solid black box to avoid light penetration (and mold) or I would paint it in case I could not get it as wished
Peace

OMINOUS_ICABOD · #10 (**permalink**) 08-18-2009, 04:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4evergreen

Thanks J, you are always helping me!
DieAbetic, I TOTALLY agree with you. I would do it with a solid black box to avoid light penetration (and mold) or I would paint it in case I could not get it as wished
Peace

yea i was thinkin the same thing when i saw that.. but y would the black protect it from mold?? is white more susseptable?? im constructing my wooden cabinet an painted it with white flat spray paint..
should i worry about mold resistance?? iwasgna do a final coat with white flat liquid non spray paint shouldi tryan get sum exterior type formildew an mold??

tokecrazy · #11 (**permalink**) 08-19-2009, 12:39 PM

Hey Ominous Icabod,No you don't have to do that.Any latex paint that's washable.A qt will cover 100 sqft..The spare paint is fine it has a solvent that evaporates and you can wipe it down with bleach and water too.Mold and the stuff we dont want to grow will grow with light and humidity.Getting light to the roots and you get root rot and other things too.Your ok with your paint. Peace

OMINOUS_ICABOD · #12 (**permalink**) 08-19-2009, 10:02 PM

good thnk u,.. its painted now.. might do another coat tomorrow cuz its still not completly solid,,not sure how important that is.. hehe..

cant wait to get this 2nd escepade underway..