DIY 30 amp timer box plans???

WeedWitch420

Hey there:

I'm sure by now we've all seen the online plans for building a 4-light Timer Box available here:
How to Build a Four Light Grow Light Controller for Less Than $80

Using these plans, you end up with this:


I'm wondering if anyone has any plans that incorporate a couple of 110/120v outlets into the mix?

A finished unit would look something like this:


This pre-fabbed model is available at:
Let It Grow Hydroponics

This is a local shop for me, but I really don't want to pay nearly $300 if I could build a Timer Box that would work for my needs.

Anyone out there able to help a good witch out?

Peace and Pot,
-*witchy* :halloween:

SHAMAN

You need to talk to "Fredfarted"
He put this thread together DIY How to build a flip flop he might be able to help you out.

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tokecrazy

Hey Weedwitch420,Are you wanting to run 4 light on 220 volts or are you wanting to run 4 light on 110 volts?The one you have posted runs 4-220 lights.I have a plan for 220 volt switch to run 4-120 volt light on one 30amp dryer outlet or any 220 votl outlet. If you want pm me.PEACE

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green_nobody

i figured it, it is just a relay box that is controlled by a timer from the outside - for that the second black power cable is for. now that is a great idea how to do it! if the would add now even a own 30amp breaker to the setup this would be perfect. that is really the only thing that is missing in that setup.

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tokecrazy

Hey All, you dont need a breaker in the box,when you plug into the dryer outlet.the outlet is on a 30 amp breaker all by it's self.If you were pulling power from a higher rated outlet{meaning stove or ac line or outlet for a welder}then yes I would put a breaker in the box. PEACE

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green_nobody

sure, if you take it from a fused outed you don't need a second fuse but i like to be on the super safe side always and due to that i came up with a second one right in the box - best if accessible thru a switch or lever in the lid so that no one has to fumble around in all those live wires in there. i guess wago connectors are still relatively new so not to many use em but they would be really a great addition to the is too. then there would be no live ends you could touch.

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tokecrazy

Hey Weedwitch420 Here's the drawing hope you can make heads or tails out of it.PEACE

Attached Images

	DSC01004.JPG (458.9 KB, 20 views)
	DSC01005.JPG (484.5 KB, 22 views)

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WeedWitch420

HIGH All:

Thanks so much for your helpful responses.

My Ballasts can run on either 220 or 110, I just have to decide which so I can wire them.
I had planned on going with 220 to keep amperage down, and it SEEMED like that might just be easier, but I don't know.

The first "controller" is simply a relay in a box with 4-220 outlets (female plugs). The point is to be able to start a bank of lights on one "cheapo" timer.

It's alright, but I want to be able to run 2-110v intake fans (one for fresh room air and the other for air-cooling my lights) on the SAME cheapo timer as I only need those fans running during the "daylight" hours.
My exhaust will run through a carbon filter and will be plugged into a separate untimed outlet 24/7 (though I hope to plug it into a fan controller with a sensor to help adjust speed based on temps... slow when lights are off and then kicked up in the "day" based on room temps, eventually)

My problem with the second (prefabbed) unit from Let it Grow is this:
The unit has 2 breakers... 1 for the 4-220/240v lights, and 1 for 10 amps of 110v accessories. IF AT ALL POSSIBLE, I'd like the entire unit to be on only ONE breaker, as my biggest fear would be for my 3000 watts to be running while my fan breaker trips.

LIGHTS without fans = disaster!!!

I know it's unlikely to happen, but it IS possible, so I'd rather be safe than sorry. Murphy's Law and all that.

So, is there a way to build a box with enough juice for 3-1000 watt lights and two intake fans? I don't care if it is 240 or 120 as my ballasts can do either, but vortex fans are pre-wired 110, the cheapo timer will have to be 110 and the unit will have to plug into a 30 amp dryer outlet (220v).

As far as I'm concerned, there does not need to be any internal breakers in the unit, as the circuit(s) in my panel supplying power to the dryer outlet is only 30 amps as it is. Remember, I WANT all outlets (lights and fans) to be run together on the same timer and breaker anyway.

Thanks so much for your input so far... any more help???

tokecrazy

Hey weedwitch420,The drawing I posted if you can make head or tails of,is for 4- 110 outltes.Of all 3 ballest what is the total amps. are they digital or mag core ballest,if All 3 ballest add up to 15 amps you still have 15 amps for fans.In that drawing all you have to do is add one more outlet.3 outlets for lights and two for fans.The cheapo timer is just working a 110 volt coil switch no big deal.Cheapo timers crap out fast and can cause problems.If you need help when you build it PM me. PEACE

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