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| | #1 (permalink) | ||||||||
| Tokin & smokin Seedling
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| ![]() 105 Watt CFL - Spring Lamp- Full Spectrum - 6500K - Major Lamp #SHO-105W-WW ![]() Manufacturer: Major #SHO-105W-WW 105 Watt - 6300 Lumens Incandescent Equal: 500 Watts 6500K - Full Spectrum - Click Here 8,000 Life Hours 12 Month Warranty AND ![]() 200 Watt CFL - Spring Lamp - Full Spectrum 5000K - Mogul Base - Energy Miser FE-IIIB-200W ![]() Energy Miser FE-IIIB-200W 200 Watt - 10,000 Lumens Incandescent Equal: 600 Watts 5000K - Full Spectrum - Click Here 8,000 Life Hours 12 Month Warranty Mogul Base the 200 W has 10000 lumens and less Kelvin(5000k) when the 105 W has 6300 lumens and 6500K. im lost lol i think i will use 1 of each in a 3.5'x3.5' no?
__________________ Don't believe what I say cause ALL I grow is virtual because virtual grow rooms are fun and legal! | ||||||||
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| | #2 (permalink) | ||||||||
| Grower BudMaster
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| Do they have a lamp that is the 2700k range? I am going by memory, but I thought that and the 6500k was what you wanted to focus on. GG
__________________ GreenGoblin ![]() http://www.greenpassion.org/f24/gree...rst-grow-5887/ I am a compulsive liar, and nothing I say should be taken seriously. All posts are strictly for entertainment purposes. | ||||||||
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| | #3 (permalink) | ||||||||
| Moderator Moderator
| 5000k will work as well for veg. 75% veg light (5000k to 6500k) and 25% flower light (2400k to 3000k) Chiefa, read here: The CFL Club - Dedicated to Cannabis Education, Recreational. Medicinal, and Cultivation. And read again what scott06 said about the cfl's. He knows what he is talking about. Peace.
__________________ Life, j-angel My Little Grow LST'ing w/Hardware My Outdoor Odyssey 2008 BONSAI MUMS Cloning a Flowering Plant My Little Grow Blueberry | ||||||||
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| The Following User Says Thank You to jangel For This Useful Post: | the.fatman.cometh (08-01-2008) |
| | #5 (permalink) | ||||||||
| Moderator Moderator
| Quote: Originally Posted by chiefa ok now what is more important lumens or k I believ Soc set you straight on this...but just to make sure some quote from this tut on r site http://www.greenpassion.org/f22/cfl-tutorial-2592/ i agree k and lumen are two different things.. lumens non-technically speaking are how strong or much light...more lumens more powerfully bright and k is a meaure of what part of the light spectrum is being produced...you know ROYGBIV..red, orange, yellow, green, blue, Indigo, Violet but more technically they can be explained in the tut Lumens Without getting too scientific, lumens are what make a plant grow. In general, the more lumens shining on the plant the better. Much of what I have read says 1000 to 2000 lumens per square foot for vegging, and 3000 to 5000 lumens per square foot for flowering. In general, most cfls have a lumen/watt ratio, or efficacy, somewhere around 65, but usually between 55 and 75. Smaller cfls general have lower efficacies, and larger cfls have slightly higher efficacies. This is great compared to incandescent bulbs, which average between 8 and 20 lumens/watt. However, it doesn't hold a candle to hps and mh lights, which usually get between 100 and 150 lumens/watt. ![]() So cfls are fairly efficient, but you need multiple cfls working together to grow. What the heck is color temperature? Technically, color temperature means the temperature of an ideal black body radiator at which the color of the light source and the black body are identical. (A black body is a theoretical radiator and absorber of energy at all electromagnetic wavelengths.) Thus, for a 2700K light bulb, the blackbody would be 2700 Kelvin, or approximately 4860 degrees Fahrenheit. What does this mean to a grower? A plant in nature is used to different having a cycle of light throughout its life span. Beginning in spring (fall in the southern hemisphere), the plant is subjected to many long days of light at a high temperature, usually between 5000K and 6000K. This light is very white, and somewhat bluish. Later in the plants life, it sees more and more red light, which helps it to know when to flower. The scientific reason for this is that during shorter days, the sun is not directly overhead, and due to the wavelengths of light, more blue light is bounced off the atmosphere than red light. Some people think backwards (helped in part by the producers of cfls, see below), that a red color is hotter than a blue color. If you light your lighter (I'm sure most people reading this have a lighter), you'll notice that the flame is blue at the bottom, where it is warmest, and yellow at the top. The reason you won't see any red is that the gas burns too quickly for the flame to be red. However, the red can be seen in a fire. Note that in the picture below, the top of the list on the right coincides with the bottom of the color scale. ![]() So which bulbs should I get? For vegetative growth, you will want bulbs which are at the high end of the spectrum (5000K to 6500K). For flowering, you will want bulbs at the low end of the spectrum (2700K to 3500K). Unfortunately, some manufacturers think that the color spectrum is too confusing for people, so they came up with other words to describe the color spectrum of the bulb. The typical incandescent bulb is 2700 Kelvin and produces a "Warm white" or "Soft white" light. At 4000 Kelvin, a "Cool White" fluorescent light is sometimes called "neutral". A "daylight" fluorescent light is rated at 5000 to 6500 Kelvin and provides cool light with a blue tint. Notice that a "cool white" bulb emits light at a hotter temperature than a "warm white" bulb. Confusing, huh? Note that the light temperature does not affect the temperature of the bulb itself. Also, be aware that the phrases used above are not standard. For example, Sylvania "daylight" bulbs are rated at 3500 Kelvin. This confusion will be coming to an end soon, though, since Energy Star 4.0 guidelines will require labeling all cfls with the color temperature. | ||||||||
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| The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to scott06 For This Useful Post: |
| | #7 (permalink) | ||||||||
| Moderator Moderator
| im lost lol i think i will use 1 of each in a 3.5'x3.5' no? Cheifa's question originally lets see 3.5 x3.5 = 12.25 ft2 and 6300 + 10000 = 16300 lumens 16300/12.25 = 1304 lumens per sqare foot this is the very minimum lumens per ft2 for veg, I would like double that, and quadrupal that for flower Guidlines Sunlight - up to 10000 lumens per ft2 Flower - 5000 - 7000 lumens per ft2 Veg - 1000 - 3000 lumens per ft2 12.25 x 5000 = 61250 total lumens needed for your space in flower so you will want over 60000 lumens to really have the space well lit I would get enough cool bulbs (65000k) for about 20000 lumens and enought warm bulbs (27000k) to give 40000 lumens and as I grew I would start with the cool and add warm as I moved towards flower and the canopy grows larger...the ratio of cool to warm is not a guidline but my own personal preference....any ratio will work as long as cool dominates in the begining and warm is present the last 8 - 12 weeks...or you could do 50/50 the whole way...J-Angel seems to prefer 75/25 and I am sure that will work as well someone may check my math but I am pretty sure this is the guidelines you want for that space... if this seems a bit complex it may explain why some people get a big old HID and don't worry about this... Last edited by scott06; 08-01-2008 at 02:05 PM. Reason: mispelink | ||||||||
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| | #8 (permalink) | ||||||||
| Newbie Seedling
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| I use a New Wave, 4ft./8 tube set up. It's 432 watts and produces 40000 lumens. My grow chamber is 2 x 4 x 6 (8 sq. feet) My last grow gave me 6 inch buds. My next grow will a SoG for a better use of my watts and lumens. Peace, Canna Bus | ||||||||
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