SUPERCRITICAL FLUID EXTRACTION/ or butane extraction

CAUSTIC

i need to mention certain safety issues with using butane extractions.

- please be sure to NOT use PVC or ABS tubing because the solvent WILL leech toxic chemical residues from the tubing and get it into your oil. i reccomed either buying a honeybee exctractor, or using a stainless steel salt or pepper shaker from the dollar store because those items wont oxidize or leech anyything harmful into your oil.

- make sure to use butane that is at least 3x refined, 5x is better, because the heavy metals that are in basic butane will slowly poison you

- butane is neurotoxic, so please be sure to COMPLETELY purge your oil by leaving it on a warmer ( heat pad, heat vent, or other warm non-spark causing heat source) until you cannot smell ANY hints of butane, and i mean sticking your fae right in the dish and taking a HUGE whiff. i suggest at least 24 hours if its left on a heating pad.

- please be sure to properly ground yourself when doing any handling of the butane while it is in its extraction, and evaporation phases. you an do this by wrapping some bare wire around your ankle and sticking it to the ground using a nail or metal spike. the same method can be used by getting a static charge bracelet from the computer store for about $15, and then staking the cable to the ground or a piece of metal. this method is used professionally in explosive environments to minimize risk of explosion.

honestly, i feel that BHO is great for a quick and easy oil, but the environmental damage, risk of unintentional poisoning, cost and hassle of finding the proper butane, as well as explosion risk leave it to be a less desireable method than using ISO. sure iso takes a while to evaporate, but the iso doesnt have a negative efect on the environment, its easier to recapture, and if you do recapture it, the costs go WAAAYYY down. and yes iso requires a greater skill level to make a good oil, but even then iso oil is very easy to learn.

if you follow the proper safety steps for doing a BHO extraction, a lot of these issues wont be a problem, but i know that a LOT of people tend to get lazy, and that eans trouble in one form or another. but its up to us med-pot types to set the record straight so that others can learn to do it safely.

green_nobody

all good points, but you are wrong on the stainless steel shaker, they from your point as bad as PVC/ABS/PP/PE, the only good option from that point is a brass made nipple pipe with to brass caps. those also don't spark. besides, a bought honey maker is also only made of either PVC or PE, so isn't any better then a home made due to this.
TO butane and isopropanol, but are strong neurotoxin, both can knock you out in an not to well aired room, happened with one of my student apprentice 2 years ago after i told him to clean of a workplace with a bit iso and he dumped 3 gallons on the table... also does the EU check iso as carcinogenic substance at the moment...so it is on the watch list as aceton was 20 years ago and today you noth allowed to use more then 100ml in the lab under an extractor hood.

peace

__________________
Keep the gun oiled and the thumb green!

http://www.pch.gc.ca/progs/cpsc-ccsp...Canada-eng.MP3

CAUSTIC

how does the stainless steel leech chemicals? i have been warned against using brass as it was a problem for leaving residues.

and from what i have learned, the honeybee extractor is a solvent safe plastic.

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Carcinogenicity:
Isopropanol -
IARC: Group 3 carcinogen
Epidemiology:
Early epidemiological studies suggested an association between the strong acid manufacture of isopropyl alcohol and paranasal sinus cancer in workers. The risk of laryngeal cancer may also be increased in these workers. However, it has not been tested adequately in animals to assess its carcinogenicity

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wow, in all my msds readings i have NEVER noticed this part about isopropanol.....

thanks for the info for sure.

green_nobody

it is a question of what type of stainless is used, most cheaper types - those of which a shaker would be made from a highly unclean alloys that are soft... the is high end stuff that would be save, good enough with the FDA for process materials, but those are damn hard and everything else but cheap.
there also washed plastics as PEEK, PE, PP and even PVC, but those are a bit more expansive then the common stuff and the are for sure not used on commercial honey oil makers, that is a fact. basically the best would be brass, PE/PP or stainless that is rated safe for food... but that is hard to find for normal users too... pain in the ass i guess.

__________________
Keep the gun oiled and the thumb green!

http://www.pch.gc.ca/progs/cpsc-ccsp...Canada-eng.MP3

green_nobody

^^wop, the easy days of iso are over, and i use the stuff still for everything up to cleaning my cars windows

__________________
Keep the gun oiled and the thumb green!

http://www.pch.gc.ca/progs/cpsc-ccsp...Canada-eng.MP3