Yeah forget that mg dirt i'm using reg ol black dirt. I went and got cow manure with hummus, bone meal, perlite, peat moss, and 5 gal of raw molasses. What am i missing???

a little dolomite lime for a pH buffer. you can also add in a boost of N from worm castings if you want, but the manure and hummus probably have enough

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What's 5 gal's of molasses for ?

cookies, micro nutrients & potassium. Got a whole bucket full for $10 from the local feed and seed.
Dolomite lime is the same as masonry lime used in cement right? the lime at L+M is hydrated and it does say "gardeners lime" on the bag. I read dolomite takes 6 months to break down in the soil and hydrated takes about half that. Then i read hydrated could burn the plants and it disapates outta your soil faster... So experimentation time i guess. 3 clones=clone #1 with just dolomite, #2 with hydrated, and #3 with half dolomite and half hydrated...

haha good plan. you might be right. i get the gardener's lime at the local store. used dolomite before though....cant really tell if it makes a difference (cause i didnt do a cool experiment like you). but now im looking forward to developments with this... :-)

__________________

"Remember, you can never overdose - you can only under-dose. We are just making sure we aren't under-dosing."

I am a medical marijuana patient - my plants and use are covered under State Law. I do not endorse illegal activities in or out of the state/country. So don't tread on me.

Spring '09 Grow Chocolate Thai: http://www.greenpassion.org/showthread.php?t=7928

Current Fall '09 'Red Diesel' LED Grow http://www.greenpassion.org/showthread.php?t=14415

Lime, Lime, and More Lime

In a related article, many growers suggested the use of lime to raise the pH (low is acid, high is alkaline) for some ferns. Different growers suggested that Adiantums, Aspleniums, and even Pyrossias could benefit from added lime. But, it is imortant to know why lime is good and what lime is best. Improperly used, lime can actually inhibit plant growth.
The pH of a soil is a measure of acidity or alkalinity. The numbers reported from a soil test generally range from 5.0 to 8.5. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Those below 7.0 are acidic and those above 7.0 are alkaline. A pH of 6.5 is ideal for many plants; the range from pH 6.0 to 7.0 is good for vegetables. Below 5.5 and above 7.5, soil treatment or modification often is necessary.
Most soils contain appreciable amounts of acidic components (hydrogen H+ and aluminum Al+++) that can be toxic to plants. Lime neutralizes those acidic components, making it a great soil anti-acid. Furthermore, plants utilize applied fertilizers more efficiently on soils that are properly limed.
You will find reference to at least four kinds of lime in agriculture: crushed limestone [Calcium carbonate (CaCO3)], dolomitic lime [Calcium-magnesium carbonate (CaCO3--MgCO3)], burned or quick lime [Calcium oxide (CaO)], and slake or hydrated lime ]Calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)2)]. Of these, dolomitic lime appears to be the best additive to raise pH and promote growth.
This is because dolomitic lime includes manganese and because dolomite lime acts slowly and continuously, and hydrated lime acts almost instantly. Use hydrated lime instead of dolomite lime for faster results, but don't use too much; you can create toxicity problems, which won't arise with dolomite lime, by using too much hydrated lime. Always use fine dolomite lime, since coarser grades take years to have a substantial effect. Dolomite lime is available at most nurseries.
Do not over-lime. It's best to apply lime according when a soil test shows that the ph for your fern is too low. Excess lime is likely to result in iron chlorosis of plant. If plants appear chlorotic after a lime application, low manganesecan also be the problem. Applying lime raises the soil pH and reduces the availability of manganese. In such cases, manganese should be applied to the soil. Soils with adequate manganese levels should not show symptoms following lime application.
One last note. Gypsum cannot be used instead of lime. Gypsum, also known as landplaster, is calcium sulfate. It is an economical source of calcium and sulfate but cannot be used as a liming material because it does not have the capability to neutralize soil acidity. In fact, applying gypsum to an acid soil (pH less than 5.5) can have adverse effects on certain plants by displacing soil aluminum, which is toxic to plant roots. Gypsum is frequently applied to provide supplemental calcium. But, there is no substitute for lime in neutralizing soil acidity.

i love the internet

i cant find that thread with jangels soil mix ratios! Jangel i need your advice please...

Hi Green,
I think she is not currently online but you can PM her and when she see it she will answer and help you with your questions
Peace

Okay, sweetie, tell me what I said in the thread or was it the organic soil mix? I will come back and post a link....Hold tight.

A simple organic recipe

Is this it?

And yes, it is dolimite lime that I use.

Peace

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i'm sorry i read it a while ago it was 1/3 manure, 1/3 chicken poop, i cant remember the rest. i bought composted manure with hummus, bone meal, perlite, vermiculite, peat moss, agricultural lime and top soil. if i were to mix up a 5 gallon pale of these ingredients what ratios should i use and can seedlings go right into it?

Yes, got ya....ya have to forgive me, old stoner mind here....

okay, mix it all together, divide it into the number of plants you have and add it to the hole you dig before you plant the plants in. That is it. but mix it in really well and if they are just seedlings, put them in none of that to start, so plant inside like straight dirt so the roots have to grow a bit in order to hit the manures. That way when you first plant them, the roots won't be burnt.

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aka GP purrie kittie attack cat!


My Little Grow LST'ing w/Hardware

My Outdoor Odyssey 2008 BONSAI MUMS

My Little Grow Indoor To Outdoor 2009

Thanks jangel thats the info i'm lookin for

Hi! Am I correct in assuming the soil I have here may need Hydrated dolomite lime added to it?


Product Description Roots Organics Potting Soil
A truly exceptional ready-to-use coco fiber-based potting soil. We begin with a base of the highest quality coco fiber/Coir on the planet which is repeatedly washed for an incredibly low EC, and composted for over twenty-four months, and is specially blended with extra long fibers. This soil is amended with only the highest quality organic ingredients including bat guano, premium earth worm castings, fish bone meal, feather meal, green sand, mycorrihzae, glacial rock dust, soybean meal, humic acid, and many more. Already blended with correct proportions of perlite and pumice for excellent drainage and a vigorous root system, Roots Organics potting soil encourages healthier plants and better yields. Comes in a heavy-duty, ready-to-grow, 1.5 cu.ft./10 gal.,camoflauge print bag; simply poke holes in the bottom, cut off the top, and plant.

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Sounds to me like this stuff should work nicely, just as it is... Peace

OK whew! Thanks! Just trying to narrow down the problems, I'm sure it's over feeding lol

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