Originally Posted by SHAMAN

And finally this is what the in side of the greenhouse should look when harvest comes..

Originally Posted by SHAMAN

And finally this is what the in side of the greenhouse should look when harvest comes..

Originally Posted by SHAMAN

Build this greenhouse!
To begin, select a level, well-drained site. Use a glyphosate herbicide to eliminate grass or weeds.
Dig holes for 4X4 posts. A trench for plumbing and electrical services connects to an existing building.
These are the 2X6 side rails. The clamps used to hold the PVC ribs in place are screwed into these boards BEFORE the frame is built.

Space the clamps 24 inches apart and leave them loosely connected at this time.
Getting the corners square and the sides level is an important step. Still, this is NOT rocket science, so extreme precision is not necessary.

Note that I added a post in the middle of the side rails. This will increase stability, but it is especially important since I used 16' side rails, instead of the 12' sides specified in the plan.
The rails are attached to the corner posts with large screws and to one another with nails. You can also see two rib braces hanging loosely.

Once the frame is square and level, tamp the corner posts firmly in place.
The 10' PVC ribs are attached next.

I used Schedule 80 PVC for strength. The pipe has thicker walls than Schedule 40 pipe, so it is stronger, but it also is more expensive.
This hand tool made the job of attaching the ribs go quickly, but a powered screwdriver could be used, just as well.
The backbone is made of 22-1/2 inch segments of PVC held together with PVC crosses. The crosses add 1-1/2 inch to each section, so the ribs will be 24" apart when they are attached.

On each end of the backbone, a PVC tee is used.

Inside the backbone pipe, a length of electrical conduit is inserted to strengthen the assembly.
This is what the cross looks like at close range. The backbone assembly was completed a day earlier so the glue could fully set.
Attach the backbone to the end and center ribs on one side, then to the matching ribs from the other side.

Getting started is the trickiest part, and it would be helpful to have an assistant.
It is then fairly easy to attach the other ribs, and, voila, a Quonset hut appears!
Next, build the end braces.
These galvanized connectors add strength to the corners.

Also, note the long screw through the PVC rib into the top of the structure.
Both ends are constructed in the same fashion. One will have a door hung inside it.

The water and electricity are installed at this point, too.
Next, staple weed barrier material to the inside of the rails.

Materials for the floor are not included in the plans from the North Carolina Extension, but some sort of floor is essential. Without it, weeds will sprout inside your greenhouse, and you will get muddy feet when you walk into it.

The floor shown here is probably the least expensive option.
Pine bark mulch is spread atop the weed barrier to a depth of about 2 inches. Approximately 30 cubic feet of mulch is required.
Attaching the plastic cover is the final step. Staple it to the rails and to the end frames.

The door is a simple rectangular frame hung with two hinges. Foam tape around the inside of the door frame will improve the temperature management process.
The total cost: about $350.

Using Schedule 40 PVC pipe and fittings will reduce the cost by $100 or so. Except for the plastic cover, the structure should last for 10-15 years.


"copied from jcmga.org"

Originally Posted by jangel

Shaman, this sounds great but no pics left. Amyway you could re-add them so I can see what you are talking aabout? Hate to be a bother but I could use one of those!

Life,
j-angel