Germinating seeds

Widower

Hi everyone. I know I don't post very often but I do read most of the posts each day. In the past, I have had no problem germinating seeds but this time I had 4 Kalichakra from Mandala seeds. They are about 8 months old and are wrapped and stored in the fridge. I used the usual paper towel method and after 2 days, 1 had popped. 8 or 9 days after that and nothing. So I used a set of tweezers and put pressure to start a split in the seed and naturally kind of semi-crushed them. It's been 2 days and the exposed taproots are not growing. Do you think these are garbage. If so I think I will try some juicy fruit from BCseedking. Any opinions are appreciated

jangel

Hi Widower. I have had this problem in the past as well. If they have not sprouted by now, I am pretty sure they are toast. Usually after this length of time, they will rot, and not grow. It is frustrating. I know. From that batch I got 2 out of 11 seeds to grow and they where both males. PITA!

Also, try getting in touch with the seller of these seeds. They may compensate you for them if they are reputable sellers.

Peace

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scott06

I don't know anything about the stain you are growing but some tropical sativas will not germinate unless they get really warm temps 78 degrees or more, you have skill with seeds so they are either duds at this point or some environmental factor is off...r u germinating in a house w/ AC?

Sock

Not sure about widower, but I germinate in AC, would like to hear your thoughts on this Scott..

Maybe I am way off base but have had the greatest luck, with wet napkin, inside a plastic Thai or chinessee container with a lid on it. Place on a window seal to keep warm and humid. Of course if I dont get germination in a week (usually sprout in 3 days) I get mold and seed was probably crap anyways..


Sock

scott06

glad to clarify....I was wondering if one tried germination when AC might be causing dry cold air and so hindering germination...wondering if this could account for Widower's problem. I don't think your method of sealing a container would have any problems in a AC house...seeds just need moisture and heat to germinate. Some strains have unique demands as I mentioned with some sativas and high heat...also a few indica have naturally heavy seed cases that need to be scored or helped along or can take a long time, like 10 days to germ...Sorry Windower I am hijacking your post here.

Widower

Your not stealing..lol. I did not have them in AC. They were in my veg room which is about 83, between 2 plates. I decided to toss the ones I crushed and I'm going to try some juicy fruit I have...Thanks

scott06

great strain...Good Luck

tokecrazy

Hey Guys and Gals,I found this on urban grower and I try it and it works great and and I do it this way too.Tek mike gave this out,Make a glass of tea{foilc acid} dark strong tea.Pick out the seeds that you are wanting to grow.Drop them in the tea and put the glass in the refrigerator for 24 hours.Take it out and let it warm to room temp.Rinse them with plain water.Now put them in paper towels and wet them.Put the seed in a dark warm place.A warm&dark place is what starts the action.In two to 7 days you have crack seeds.What the foilc acid dose is to strip off the coating of the seed ,the same as if it was out in the wild,as it falls off the plant and go's through winter and the spring washing off the outer coating of the seed and starts to crack and grow.Scott is right some of the more warmer tropical stavas need warmer and more humidity environments to crack.I did this the last time I cranked the ice seeds,I took a folgers cappuccino can and a smaller clear jar,I put 5 seeds in the wet paper towel and in the clear jar and closed it and put it in the can so no light gets in.Then I set it on top of my digtial ballest,it's warm you can leave your hand on it all day and not get burned.In about 48 hours I had 5 seeds crack.Two are in the cab and one is a mother here in soil.I cloner her.Two out of the 5 seeds were males,still have 5 seeds left.I get good to great pop seeds rates this way.Give it a try.Peace

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Germination

Quality Guarantee
Our reputation as a reliable seed company is based on constant and strictest quality control by our breeders. From production to packaging we scrutinize the quality of every seed and select by hand. Our selection is so strict that we also dismiss perfectly healthy seeds simply because of a smaller size or unusual shape.
All our seeds are pre-tested...and we mean ALL seeds from all strains. Every single seeded mother plant has been tested for perfect germination prior to sale. This ensures that there are no "bad batches".
We are specialized in quality and not quantity. All seeds are fresh seed stock (3-12 months) and sales turnover is quick among distributors and resellers. There is never any old seed stock on the market regardless of where or when a customer buys our strains.
Poor germination results can only be the result of negative outside influences after purchasing the seeds and are beyond our control. This does not necessarily mean that the grower is at "fault". Even the most experienced grower can run into unforeseen problems such as fungus infected soil, a technical malfunction on an EC meter, etc. Often growers buy the wrong soil because it is recommended by the manufacturer or retail store (consult our Soil Guide for more info).
In some rare cases frost during delivery can damage seeds. If your seeds are subjected to freezing temperatures (such as lying outside in a mail box) you should dethaw them slowly. Put them in the refrigerator a couple of hours for this purpose.
In addition to the germination rates we also control other important factors of quality such as a high level of healthy seedlings. Seedlings should not appear crippled, feeble, tiny, with dehydrated leaf tips, etc.
Mutations
A very small percentage of plants turn out to be triploids (ie. have three sets of leaves) among thousands of specimens. This does not impair plant health and is a feature unique to cannabis as a plant species (ie. not restricted to our genetics). For more info on triploids please see our FAQ. Also very rare, but not a reason for concern, are twins. These appear when there are two embryos in one seed. If both seedlings are the same size you should separate them quickly before roots get entangled and then you have two plants for the price of one! If one seedling appears inferior just remove it. If a seedling has fused cotyledon leaves or a young plant has fused leaf tips on a leaf this is nothing to worry about and it has absolutely no impact on growth or flowering. Nature is always trying out new combinations and that cannot be prevented in selective breeding.
Authenticity
When you purchase our seeds from a reseller you should receive 1st class seeds: mature, healthy colouring, medium-large size, with well-defined mottled skin. If you get seeds that are tiny, greenish/yellow, scuffed, or immature, these are not original Mandala Seeds! Contact us immediately with details of where and when you made your purchase.
Germination
Seeds did not germinate
The first step is to look at what happened to the seeds.
There are 3 possibilities:
a) the seeds all look the same like when you planted them (intact, healthy colour)
b) some or all seeds are intact, but have noticeably changed colour and are darker; some may also have a whitish substance coating the rounded end
c) some or all of the seeds cracked open and the taproot appeared - but there was no further growth
Possible causes for:
a) Healthy & intact seeds don't germinate if the substrate is too dry. This could mean that it was too dry from the start, or that the substrate dried out before the seed could absorb enough moisture to trigger germination. Open some of the seeds to check the embryo. If it is healthy, white and firm then the seeds required more water to germinate.
Second probability is that the seeds are damaged from frost.
b) Dark seeds indicate fungal attack. A whitish substance is visible fungal mycelia. Fungus spreads under cold, wet, & anaerobic conditions. Several combinations of factors can lead to seeds rotting: poor soil quality (infected, bad pH, or high EC), pre-soaking seeds in water, substrate is too wet, substrate is in a cold environment, and/or excessive high humidity caused fungal growth in substrate (due to humidity dome/propagator, pots covered with plastic, poor ventilation).
Open some of the seeds to check the embryo. In rotted seeds the embryo is soft, yellowish or almost like liquid.
c) This can happen for the same reasons as in b). But there can also be other factors involved. If a heating mat was used the substrate may have been heated up too much. In rockwool a high EC can kill the emerging seedling. Check the EC of your substrate and make sure your EC meter is functioning correctly. A sudden dry spell in the substrate is also lethal at this stage.
Also check your water quality. In some areas municipal water is extremely low quality. It can have an excessively high salt level and can be contaminated with minerals/heavy metals which stunt plant growth. High levels of chlorine and fluor are dangerous. You can smell chlorine - let it evaporate before use by filling a bucket with hot water. If you are in doubt about your tap water buy bottled mineral water (without gas). The pH should be adjusted to 6.5 for soil and pH 5.6-5.8 for rockwool..
Watering with organic teas or various other products is definitively counterproductive. During germination and seedling stage you should use pure pH adjusted water.
Other factors:
Jiffy's, peat pellets, and other types of starter plugs with an alkaline pH inhibit germination in cannabis seeds. Some substrates such as coco coir may also be pre-fertilized and have a high EC (salt) level Untreated coco coir contains toxic levels of sodium and chloride. Or they could have been treated with fungicides and pesticides. If you have used a particular product with poor results you should stop using it and switch to rockwool or soil.
Seedlings
Some or all seedlings grow weak and tall
The major cause is lack of light. The seedlings are stretching in search of light. This leads to elongated and weak growth. Give your seedlings as much light as possible. Move them closer to the lamp. Put them under an HPS lamp if available. If you are growing near a window move the plants to the sunniest spot or supplement grow time with a lamp. Outdoors you should also provide as much light as possible. Support the seedlings with a stick or looped wire while they regain strength. As soon as they have sufficient light they will grow vigorously.



Some or all seedlings fell over and died
This is usually caused by a fungal disease called "damping off". The cause is infected soil, waterlogged substrate, high humidity...any conditions that promote fungus. The fungus attacks the soft tissue in the stem which withers at the base or midway. The seedling collapses and dies. Another possible cause is that the seedlings died from lack of water or a high salt level in the substrate (which basically has the same effect of drying out the plant). Seedlings have only a small amount of roots and few leaves. They cannot retain much water and quickly dry out. High humidity in the grow space does not compensate for a desiccated substrate. Your soil/rockwool has to be moist enough to sustain healthy roots and provide water to the plant. Photo shows “damping off”.
Outdoor frost can kill seedlings overnight. Keep your seedlings indoor until there is no danger of sudden frost.
Seedlings cannot open their first set of leaves
Sometimes the seed hull and the inside skin is still attached to or enclosing the leaves. This happens if the seed was not planted deeply enough. Usually the seed hull is detached as the seedling emerges through the substrate. Spray the seed hull with mineral water and wait 1/2 hour for the moisture to soften the dry skin and soil residues. Then gently and slowly pull it off from the leaves. If it does not move easily spray more water. It is very important to remove it carefully because if you tear off the leaves the seedling dies.



Recommendations
We hope that this guide has been helpful in detecting the probable cause for any problems that you have encountered. The next step would be to run a test under improved conditions. For this purpose it is best to germinate just a few seeds as a trial. If everything goes well you see the results within 7+ days and can germinate the remaining seeds with confidence. A novice grower will also find this helpful advice before losing all of the purchased seeds on a set-up that requires modification!
Hydroponics
If you are new to cannabis growing it is not advisable to start with hydroponics. Don't make your first cultivation experience unnecessarily complicated! In hydroponics you have to constantly monitor EC and pH, choose the correct nutrient formulas and feeding schedule, clean and flush your system, invest in expensive equipment, etc. If you are insecure about germinating and growing in rockwool or other hydroponic substrates then switch to soil or start with a small test group to gain experience.
Especially with our genetics you will find growing on soil very easy and rewarding. It is highly probable that any benefits you may be expecting from hydroponics, such as a higher yield, will be much simpler and securer to achieve with a straightforward soil cultivation!
Choosing the correct soil for germination and seedlings should not be difficult. However, some growers feel overwhelmed and insecure by the seemingly endless jungle of products, whilst others may live in countries with a very small and unsatisfying range of products. Please refer to our SOIL GUIDE for tips and recommendations.

scott06

Mandala Seeds places great emphasis on the quality of the seed stock and we guarantee that the seeds from all products are fresh and viable. Seeds harvested from each mother plant are checked for optimal germination rates before they are approved for sale! In large tests (1000 or more) our seeds achieve a germination rate of 99,6%. Our seed stock is refreshed every 6-12 months! Therefore seed vendors and customers can be certain to purchase and store viable seeds at any time.
Due to our high standard of pollination, attentive grow methods, and the dedicated hand selection of seed stock for sales, our seeds are always perfectly matured and can be quite large. They also possess a particularly intact and hard seed hull. The robust genetics of our cannabis varieties, and our innovative Deluxe seed production methods, leads to the development of healthy and strong seeds with a good resistance against environmental factors. Due to the firm seed hull and large size some of our seeds may require a slightly longer germination time. Most seeds sprout in record time and others take a bit longer. Once the seedling grows through the substrate it will develop quickly and vigorously regardless of the germination time.
For an optimal germination result the seeds should be planted DIRECTLY into the substrate. We clearly advise against using pre-germination methods or soaking. Please do not place the seeds into a glass of water or in moist paper tissues. Fresh and healthy seeds prefer a nurturing and airy substrate to germinate in – just as mother nature has meant it to be. Cannabis is a plant species originating from semi-arid and temperate biotopes and the vast majority of modern cannabis hybrids contain a substantial percentage of these genetics. Cannabis seeds are not adapted to swampy wetlands, but they are suited for germinating in well drained soil/substrate. In nature they rot if they fall into a puddle of water...and there are no paper tissues lying around either. Taking into account these botanical facts, it is quite logical that by creating germination conditions that are similar to those of the natural habitat one can expect the best results.
What happens if one uses pre-germination methods?
1. Soaking seeds in water/wet paper towels is a method which can be used for old seeds (3+ years) that are drying up and losing germination power; and for pure land race equatorial strains such as from Africa. Both factors do not apply to our seeds. Fresh seeds have a healthy embryo whose cells are filled with water. But excess water causes the cells to bloat, depletes oxygen and leads to the tissue rotting away before the seed embryo can germinate. Old seeds have lost water in the cell tissue, the embryo starts to shrivel, which is why germination rates drop the older the seeds are. Therefore, old seeds (ie. 3+ years) can soak up more water before adverse conditions cause them to rot. This is one of the main reasons why various seed stock reacts differently to pre-germination methods. Especially novice growers make a lot of mistakes with pre-germination methods such as soaking seeds in water for up to 1-2 days. Even if one chooses to pre-germ seeds it has to be done correctly.
It is in a growers best interest to choose a germination method with the lowest risk of complications. Because we want customers to have the highest success rate possible we recommend the most convenient and safest method. This does not mean it is the only option. We simply believe it carries the lowest risk. In fact, planting seeds directly in the substrate is also the most plant friendly method for any type of seed stock. The reasons are explained below in paragraph 2 & 3.
2. Placing healthy & fresh seeds in water/wet tissue can lead to the development of fungi or bacteria on the seed hull. Lack of oxygen and contaminating substances in the water/wet tissue promote fungal growth which can be transported to the substrate later on. Often the seed simply rots away if left for too long in a glass of water, or wrapped up in wet tissue.
3. Once the seed sprouts in a glass of water or paper tissue it already has the taproot growing out of the cracked seed hull. While transplanting the germinated seed it is very difficult, indeed impossible, to prevent damage to the delicate taproot. Many sprouted seedlings handled in this way show retarded development, or even simply fail to appear out of the substrate after transplantation. Handling seedlings this way can impair the health & vigour of the plant for the duration of it’s life cycle - especially if other disturbing factors occur during the early stages of growth.
Professional horticulturists rarely use pre-germination methods to actually grow out the seedlings because of the shock suffered from transplanting them. For example, we use the paper tissue method only as a quick test for germination rates of aged seed stock from our genetic repository. This allows us to see beforehand how many seeds we have to put in soil to get the amount of plants we require for breeding projects.
Germinating cannabis seeds is not difficult. All you need is some basic information on what is important and everything should work out fine.
Here are our tips for germination:
Please use high quality soil or rockwool starter cubes for germinating seeds. Do not use jiffy’s/peat pellets/rooter plugs: the acidic pH of pure peat can inhibit germination of cannabis seeds.
Soil: take 8-10 cm/3-4” (diameter) pots and fill them with quality potting soil. Press the soil slightly down and make a 1,5 cm/0,6” deep hole with a pencil or finger. Place the seed in a horizontal position in the hole (this is the easiest method). Fill the hole and gently tap down the soil. Use chlorine free water (preferably good mineral water without gas) with a pH of 6-6.5 to water the pots. The soil should be uniformly moist but not soggy or waterlogged. Use a spoon to water if necessary. Put the pots at a warm location. Temperatures at 25°C/75°F or higher accelerate germination. Take care that the soil does not dry out and that the pots don’t stand in the cold (ie. at or under 21°C/70°F). Misting the soil surface with water spray is not particularly effective. Rather, you should water the pots properly if the soil surface dries up.
Rockwool: immerse the rockwool cubes in luke-warm water with a pH of 5.6-5.8 until the rockwool is evenly wet. Overnight soaking is not required for starter cubes. Let the water drip off...squeeze lightly to assist. Place the seed in a horizontal position into the hole (this is the easiest method). The taproot can grow downwards assisted by gravity. Alternatively, you can also place the seed into the hole vertically with the rounded end facing up (cannabis seeds sprout by opening the shell at the pointy end where the taproot grows out). Cover the hole with a small piece of rockwool. Choose a fluffy piece of rockwool...you don’t want to tightly plug the hole because the seedling has to grow out with ease. Water the rockwool cubes with a weak nutrient solution of 10-15% of the recommended dosage (or EC 0,6) and pH 5.6-5.8. You can also germinate using pure water. Put the rockwool cubes at a warm location. Temperatures at 25°C/75°F or higher accelerate germination. Take care that the rockwool cubes do not dry out or stand in the cold (ie. at or under 21°C/70°F). They should also not sit in water. Usually the cubes require to be moistened with pH adjusted water every 1-2 days. Use chlorine free water such as mineral water. Within 3-4 days the seedlings should appear out of the cubes. Hot tip: to prevent the cubes from sitting in water put some perlite at the bottom of the tray for drainage.
IMPORTANT:
* Don’t cover pots with plastic wrap, don’t use a humidity dome, or place pots/rockwool cubes in a propagator that’s completely covered! This prevents fresh air exchange, raises humidity to excess levels, and easily facilitates the spread of fungus. The seeds then rot before they can germinate. Excess humidity coupled with lack of oxygen is the #1 cause for poor germination results!
If you germinate your seeds at room temperature, and have properly watered the substrate, there is no need to be concerned that it will dry out overnight. Only the substrate requires sufficient water for the seeds to germinate - the outside humidity can and should be be low to moderate (ie. max. 55%). Low humidity does not interfere with germination or healthy seedling growth. Remember: cannabis is not an orchid! Fungal spores are everywhere: in the air, in substrates, ... and they await the conditions to spread and attack organic substances such as seeds or the roots. Common fungal infections are pythium and fusarium. Young seedlings are also prone to such infections because their cell tissue is very soft. Over watering and/or high humidity trigger such diseases like “damping off” which quickly kills seedlings.
* Do not use heating mats. A dysfunctional heating mat, or a mistake in the temperature control, can easily boil the seeds or dry up the substrate and shrivel the feshly emerging seedling. Your pots/rockwool cubes should be placed in a space with ambient room temperature (ie. 24-26°C/75-78°F). In the winter use a small electric or gas heater to warm up your grow space. You can also switch on the HPS lamp and put the pots at a close distance underneath.
Seedling care:
Within 3-5 days the seedlings should appear out of the soil.
As soon as the first pair of leaves grow on the seedlings transplant them into 14-16 cm/5,5-6,5” pots, so that they have sufficient space for their root development and nutrients. You can also choose larger pots if you are confident that you won’t over water. Seedlings require sufficient light (this applies to the strength and length of daylight or artificial light) and fresh air to grow. Switch on your lamp(s) as soon as the first seedlings appear at the latest.
Do not fertilize in the first weeks of growth on soil! This is the #1 cause for sick plants. Rather, transplant into high quality soil and bigger containers as the plants grow larger.
Recommendations:

• Take advantage of our low prices and plant an extra 1-2 seeds if you don't use the whole pack of 10 seeds. Although we, and the plants, do everything in our power to produce 100% viable seeds please remember this is a biological product. Therefore, even if a seed looks perfect from the outside, it can't be prevented that a minor % of seeds does not germinate, or that the seedling is not completely healthy. That's why it's a good idea to have an extra seed sprouting as a back-up and then you can always select the best seedlings for your grow.

• Keep your fingers from those ferts and potions. Yes, it happens again and again: growers feeding their seedlings on soil with mineral or biological fertilizers & rooting products, spraying them with homemade teas, or killing them not so softly with harsh biological pesticides. Seedlings are baby plants with delicate young leaves and roots. Let's put it this way: you don't feed a T-bone steak to a baby. Seedlings require 3 weeks to develop into stouter and tougher plants. During this phase of development a good soil mix and decent container size provides all the nutrients they require.

• Don't forget to check your water pH with every watering and use cheap vinegar to adjust it downwards instead of mineral salts (to prevent salt build-up).

• Mandala strains are unique in their high level vigor and fast growth. For optimal plant growth you don't require to perk them up with root stimulators. The Mandala genetics already come with an inbuilt turbo boost. Root stimulators can in some cases be counterproductive. To support the vigorous growth of our strains you should buy quality soil and choose/adjust container sizes according to the size of the plants. Rootbound plants quickly develop nitrogen deficiency and other deficiencies. “Rootbound” is a condition which exists when a potted has outgrown its container. The roots become entangled and matted together, and the growth of the becomes stunted.