Red stems .. yellowing middle leaves. Plz advise.

timbo1212

HI.
I had six plants going in soil ( fox Farm ocean forest) They are Blueberry cross plants. They were nice. Sadly 5/6 came out male. So I separated the males and reverted the female (after 4 days of 12/12 when sex showed) so I can later get clones . The female is growing ok but now 20-30% of leaves are showing yellowing on the edge between the viens as in the top two rows of the photo below. Its getting worse daily and I am starting to be concerned. All other leaves are normal green. I use FoxFarm grow big. (5ml/gal) every watering and flushed last week for the first time. What in the world am I missing. MG? P? .. why? I am fertilising. I just bought superthrive too and added 1 time (drop/gal) Please advise. Could this be over fertilising? So why didnt the flush I did 3 days ago help? Seriously WTF!

Please also suggest a solution to the problem.

Thank you.

Attached Images

	11.jpg (138.2 KB, 30 views)
	12.jpg (72.2 KB, 24 views)

jangel

I do not know enough about this to advise you but here is the link to the Plant Abuse chart. And please wait till a more experianced grower chimes in here. Hopefully you will find what you are missing. What is the pH of your water? Have you grown before with Fox Farm nutes? Are you using them full strength ? I use FF as well, and I usually only use half to a 1/4 of what the recommended dose is.

http://www.greenpassion.org/f16/plan...ietzsche-2102/

Stop by the Introduce yourself thread and tell us about yourself. Lots of people here just waiting to meet you.

Peace

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Brussels

Timbo, I've had this happen to me after changing light cycles from flower back to vegetative growing. Actually, on some sativa strains, I've had every fan leave yellow and fall off; though the plant, after reverting back, started to grow new fan leaves.
Now when this happens to me, I clip them right at the top most node, to stimulate new growth. If your plants have done well with your feeding/watering regimen, I think I might stick with it for a while.
I know how crazy it can make ya when your plant looks terminal, but I think it'll be ok. Maybe back off the nute's some, and also let your soil dry almost to the point of wilting. I've done this before also, and it works something like a survival kick in the butt. These have been some of my experiences -- especially once I've harvested and attempt to re-veg.
Of course, not being with your plants day to day like you are, I may be way off, though what you've explained has happened to me...B

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green_nobody

it looks a bit like a lack of phosphorus, do you raise your pH with backing soda maybe as excessive use of soda can let to a P lock-out.

But it is still in the beginning telling by your pictures so don't panic, a red stem won't kill nor will a few dried up leaves and you plants are still plentiful green


But still check this here:

Plant Abuse Chart and Photos by Nietzsche



Phosphorus (P) deficiency:
Figure 11 is severe phosphorus (P) deficiency during flowering. Fan leaves are dark green or red/purple, and may turn yellow. Leaves may curl under, go brown and die. Small-formed buds are another main symptom.
Phosphorus deficiencies exhibit slow growing, weak and stunted plants with dark green or purple pigmentation in older leaves and stems.
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Purpling: accumulation of anthocyanin pigments; causes an overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint, and is the common sign of phosphate deficiency. Some plant species and varieties respond to phosphate deficiency by yellowing instead of purpling. Purpling is natural to some healthy ornamentals.


Figure 11

Figure 12 shows Phosphorus (P) deficiency during vegatative growth. Many people mistaken this for a fungus, but look for the damage to occur near the end of leave, and leaves the color dull greyish with a very brittle texture.


Figure 12


Phosphorus (P) Toxicity:
This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability and stability of copper and zinc.

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http://www.pch.gc.ca/progs/cpsc-ccsp...Canada-eng.MP3

whitetrash6

mine were doing the samething i tried lettem fite it off thereselves but it wasnt working. so after feeding them a epsome salt and water mix for a week i decided to put them in new soil. now there bounching off the walls with new growth.......

LookMomNoDealers

I grow with FF soil and nutes and I feed every other watering as recommended by FF. I'd bet that your soil pH is low from the excessive nutes, causing lockout.
Do you use a pH meter?

LookMomNoDealers

... guess not.
Back to the drawing board. Good luck my friend.
P.S When I'm having trouble pinpointing a problem like that, transplanting to new soil almost always corrects it.

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scott06

hello

I have seen a blueberry knock-off called snowberry...it also has the red to purple stem development even with near perfect nutrient/pH etc...could be just a stain trait...also the leaves tend to yellow earlly...I like ISO's advice...don't get overly concerned as it is a fairly healthy looking plant and why mess it up by trying a whole bunch of things to "save" it!

LookMomNoDealers

I agree. lol I was looking at the pics green nobody posted, sorry.
My C99xMango pheno and all her clones have that very same two tone leaf color with dark stems and have given me no problems. I will try to get a good pic for ya.

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