I was wondering what size container I should use for a SOG set-up? I am running a 600hps, in ff-ocean forest soil. I rotate FF and earth juice nutes, and I am growing white rhino. Tap h2o, I let sit for at least 24hrs.

I tries using 2-liter soda bottles, but the plants stretched so tall, I was unable to keep the light low enough for the incoming clones. I think they might have become root bound, because I started flowering a few days after the clones developed decent roots. So, as I tried to bring in new clones to get a good rotation going, the light had to be so high (no pun intended) the new plants weren't getting enough light. All my research suggest white rhino is good for SOG, but I think I need bigger pots.

I am considering grow bags, so i can fit them closely, but I am curious if I should get 1,2, or 3 gallon size? Other than adding another light, I am out of ideas. My last harvest was disappointing, but I am trying not to get discouraged. I appreciate any questions/suggestions for this newbie.

team42's frustrated.

You could switch to a MH light for vegging to help limit stretch. Also putting the clones on a brick or something to raise them closer to the light helps. You could also try training or topping your plants. Hope that helps.

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No point in mentioning these bats I thought, poor bastard will see them soon enough.

I do use a 400mh for vegging my moms, but this time my clones will basically go from under a fluorescent straight to flowering under the 600hps. I think I vegged them for a little over a week last time, and they stretched way too much. After doing some more research I have found people that are using 2gal grow bags, and not filling them all the way up. basically utilizing 1.5 of the 2 gal space. This will be my next move with my new clones.

I have also divided my space into 5 sections, and cut some shelving into 1'x4' sections. I plan to put a section of shelf on each end---then I attached some chain to the shelves to make them adjustable. I am hoping to be able to keep the canopy a little more stable this way, because I will be able to adjust both the shelves and the lights.

thanks GP for helping the team!

Sounds like a good plan, can't wait to see some pics when your finished.

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No point in mentioning these bats I thought, poor bastard will see them soon enough.

I've never had much luck rotating new plants into a space with one light for the reasons you point out. (the older plants set the height of the light/canopy)

Flowering earlier with the strain you have may be your answer no matter what container you use. Some strains just stretch....rootbound or not.

If all else fails.....try 1-2 mls of Bushmaster in 2 successive waterings. This will nixx the stretch and make the buds tighter. However...if you use this product.... DO NOT...I repeat..DO NOT give them the recommended dose of 10 ml per gallon.

doing so will freak you out.......

but with 1-2 ml....I think you'd be very happy with the results.

good luck

ww

I have also read about people using hard alcohol like whiskey or vodka to stunt the growth of plants. Supposedly it doesnt effect flower size....have you ever tried this? sounds like an old wives tale but then again never know till you try.

I had to find it first but yes, Storm Crow was talking about this in another post....

• Photo A little nip of booze may help some flowers. (AP)

• In The Spotlight The Odd Truth Strange but factual tales from around the world compiled by CBSNews.com.

(AP) For home gardeners who don't want their daffodils to tip over, a Cornell University horticulturist thinks he has the answer: Get the flowers a little tipsy with some hard liquor.

Giving some potted plants diluted alcohol — whiskey, vodka, gin or tequila — stunts the growth of the stem but does not affect the blossoms, said William Miller, director of Cornell's Flower Bulb Research Program. As a result, the houseplant does not get so tall that it flops over.

Miller reported his findings in the April issue of HortTechnology, a peer-reviewed journal of horticulture.

"I've heard of using alcohol for lots of things ... but never for dwarfing plants," said Charlie Nardozzi, a horticulturist with the National Gardening Association. "It sounded weird when I first heard about it, but our members say it works. I'm going to try it next year, just for curiosity."

Miller's study focused on paperwhite narcissus and other daffodils, but he has also had promising results with tulips.

Miller began his investigation last year after receiving a call from The New York Times about a reader who had written to the garden editor claiming that gin had prevented some paperwhite narcissi from growing too tall and floppy and asked if it was because of some "essential oil" in the gin.

Intrigued, Miller tested dry gin, unflavored vodka, whiskey, white rum, gold tequila, mint schnapps, red and white wine and pale lager beer, on paperwhites. The beer and wine did not work, probably because of their sugar content, he said.

"While solutions greater than 10 percent alcohol were toxic. Solutions between 4 and 6 percent alcohol stunted the paperwhites effectively," Miller said. "When the liquor is properly used, the paperwhites we tested were stunted by 30 to 50 percent, but their
flowers were as large, fragrant and long-lasting as usual."

Miller said gardeners should wait until their daffodil shoots are several inches long, then pour the diluted alcohol into the soil.

(To get a 5 percent solution from 80-proof liquor, which is 40 percent alcohol, add one part liquor to seven parts water.)

Any economic benefits, at least directly, are slight, Miller said. Commercial horticulturists already have other growth-control methods for large-scale production, such as employing unusual temperature cycles.

Miller is not sure why the alcohol stunts plant growth, but he theorized it might injure the roots. Or, he speculated that the mixture forces the plant to expend energy to extract the water or rid itself of the alcohol.

By William Kates

To be honest, I would just LST them. I use rusty nuts and bolts (from the hubby's collection) and twist ties. I hang them like weird little Xmas ornaments, adjusting the position and number of weights as needed to get the plant to gently bend over.

If you have the tip of your stem a bit lower than your now weighted, roughly horizontal stem, the buds along the stem will "think" they have a chance at being the big "top bud" and do their darnedest to be the biggest bud. (It actually has to do with auxin levels and light exposure- but it's easier to understand the way I explained it.) Anyway, you end up with a bit more bud if you do it right.

The buds down at the bottom do get shaded out a bit more and are smaller, but I just harvest the large buds on top, lower my lights a bit and let the bottom buds go for a bit longer to fatten them up. It works.


Granny
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Also, Team42, I would love to see what you mean with your shelves. I have thought of doing that myself in my flower room.

Peace

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Life,
j-angel

aka GP purrie kittie attack cat!


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