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#267670 Account Issues

Posted by Guest on 20 May 2010 - 12:58 PM

We have recently added some new email blocks due to massive delivery problems within these domains.

If you have an email address with:

@att.net
@scglobal.net
@earthlink.net
@myspace.com
@prodigy.net

these will no longer work here at greenpassion due to massive delivery problems. You need to use a different email address/account.

It is very easy to get another anonymous email address. You can use google for gmail, yahoo, for yahoo.com, msn, hotmail, hushmail and many other search engine companies give free no pay email services.

We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.


#148620 Green Passion Rules

Posted by Michael on 23 October 2009 - 10:06 AM

We only have a few simple rules here:

Don't be an ass. Treat other members with dignity and respect, at all times, and keep the language relatively clean. We want to maintain an inviting and uplifting environment, free from excessive negativity or vulgarity. So, if you aren't sure whether something is appropriate, it's probably best to not post it.

Keep your language and custom avatars relatively clean or they will be changed.

We have decided that it's in the best interests of the community, as a whole, to no longer allow political discussion that isn't directly related to cannabis. The announcement here explains the reasons for this decision: http://www.greenpass...politics-18047/

Also, we don't tolerate spam of any sort. So, if you're only here to promote or advertise at no cost, don't waste your time. There's no future in it.

Our goal here is a highly-functioning and self-regulating society of peers, which provides due respect and dignity for all. But, even with a skilled and responsive staff, there's no way we can read everything posted every day. So, we want to empower each and every member here to be a part of shaping and molding this community.

Please, if you see anything you find offensive, simply click the "Report Post" button, located at the the top of every post on Green Passion: Posted Image

Lastly, and this should be completely obvious, you cannot discuss buying or selling or TRADING anything illegal here, except in very general terms. We cannot allow this site to be used to carry out criminal activity of any kind. This includes trading seeds, clones, asking for herb, none of this is allowed here, in any way shape or form.

Anyone caught doing this will be banned permenently. Without debate.

Take it off the site.

You can, however, discuss seedbanks.

Thank you for your cooperation. wall.gif


#225022 Green Passion Rules

Posted by jangel on 19 March 2010 - 11:37 AM

We have found that our "Intro" rule reading and letter have been in-advertantly left by the way side, with changing servors, templates, etc.

So somedude has set it up, just to make sure all are aware of the rules, each new login must read them...that is it in a nutshell.

Let me reasure everyone, no one has offended anyone in the least. It should of been set up so that when registering all new members have to read them. It is aimed at no one!

I even had to read them when I signed on this morning, and I helped write them!

So don't take it personally in the least. It is not meant or aimed at any body, just reorganizing the system.

With a forum, there are soooo many different LITTLE things, that until they squeek, we don't remember where to put the grease!!

This is just one of them...

Peace :)
  • ISO2BWELL, jonnyappleweed420, kailiwela44 and 52 others like this


#2530 Build your own Odor Neutralizing Machine

Posted by HeadPawthead on 10 August 2007 - 05:52 AM

You will need: 1. A five gallon bucket 2. A "muffin" fan, or a round fan of some sort that has the motor built into the compact frame of the fan. (See pics and you will understand.) 3. A drill 4. A one pound container of Soil Moist, which is a water absorbing crystal. You can find it at almost all nurseries and gorw shops. 5. ONA, or Odor Neutralizing Agent. YOu can get it at most grow shops or "baby" shops for new mommies. 6. A 5 gallon bucket lid, which may be optional. Step 1. Get yourself a muffin fan, or a Durex brand or Holmes brand circular fan with base. They are very common at Wal-Mart and can usually be bought for less than $8 US. The reason you should get this brand of fan is because after you have removed the base, it fits perfectly into a five gallon bucket. 12-198143-OdorBox1.jpg Step 2. Using a flat screwdrive, pry of the nubs on the base and remove the screws. 12-198144-OdorBox2.jpg Step 3. Remove the fan from the base. Keep all the parts in case you might want the fan again someday. 12-198146-OdorBox3.jpg Step 4. Place the fan into the five gallon bucket, frontside up. If you boght the holmes brand fan pictures here it will fit VERY snugly. You don't even have to secure it in place. (If it is smaller than the opening, then cut a hole, smaller than the diameter of the fan, into the bucket lid. Use some floral wire and secure the fan to the lid so that you can place the lid onto the bucket.) 12-198151-OdorBox4.jpg Step 5. Drill about 8 or 10 holes around the bucket. 12-198153-OdorBox6.jpg Step 6. Remove the fan/lid and put about 9 cups of water into the bucket. Then put about 1 cup of the ONA into the bucket and mix it up. Be careful, it can smell pretty strong at first 12-198154-OdorBox7.jpg Step 7. Put about a cup or two of the soil moist into the bucket. Make sure that all of the liqued is absorbed. You don't have to use alot! The crystals expand to about 50 times their size. 12-198156-OdorBox9.jpg Step 8. Set the fan on the lowest setting and put it back on the bucket. Plug it in and put it somewhere in the corner of your grow room. I don't actually have mine in the closet itself... You will notice a difference in about 5 minutes! 12-198158-OdorBox5.jpg You may need to tweak it for your own grow room, but that's the basic design. Thanks!
  • MrPig, Jakhama_2_mcmetz, medicinecloset and 43 others like this


#25539 Trimming and drying your buds.

Posted by HeadPawthead on 02 January 2008 - 05:56 PM

There are many different methods you can try but here I will only talk about a few of them that are more old school and accepted methods then the rest.

First thing its a myth to think hanging a plant upside down will increase THC percentages. That is an old hippy tale. Hanging them upside down is only easy and thats about it. You can cut the plant at the bottom, trim off all the fan leaves (thats if you have not already done so the last week before harvest to increase light and air flow).

I save my fan leaves for making butter at a later date.

Once you have cut down your plant at the base and the fan leaves are gone you can clip your trim leaves as well just store those in a paper grocery bag for drying. The trim leaves are the larger leaves around your flowers (buds) just cut those as close as you can to the flower with out cutting the flower. Those have trichomes on them so keep them also, for your butter making at a later date.

By now you should have just sticks with flowers showing.

Hanging the plant as an easy way to store them for the drying. You keep them in a dry, dark and warm place for about 7-14 day's depending on how big your plant is. If it's too big just cut the branches off and hang them separately. You want air to be able to move around the plant freely to dry evenly but not directly on the flowers.

The next option is to cut the buds off the branches once you have trimmed them. You then use a metal window screen to set the flowers on the dry. You want air movement around in the dry area but you don't want direct air moving across the flowers just passive air. Like a bounce airflow where it bounces off one side and then crosses the flowers works.

Slow drying is preferred but not required (here is where many people will get pissed)

Drying is only part of the process and you can speed up the drying process by about a week or better if you have a cabinet to use. A good dry cabinet is one made with cedar lined walls and door. The cedar will draw out the moisture and keep bugs away. You can use a very small heater and small fan as well just to move the air around. You want to dry the flowers at a temperature around 80-85f that will dry them slowly but faster then if you just hang them in a closet. You get a evenly dry flower ready to cure in about 3-5 day's in a cabinet and if you are drying 5 pounds or more that is fast.

Once you have dry buds (the stems snap) you use glass mason jars like the ones your grandmother used to store preserves when you were a kid. Fill the jars with flowers but don't pack them in you want airflow around them so they cure evenly on all sides.
Check them every day and look for moisture forming on the glass if you see moisture open it up and let them breath for a few hours then close it back up and check it again the next day. Most of the time if they are dry going in you will not have moisture build up but you may so keep an eye on them.

If you have no moisture forming you still need to let the jars breath for about a hour every 3-5 day?s so the gas escapes.

The idea at this point is to get rid of the ammonia odor. That is the chlorophyll being used by the flower, one last-ditch stand to keep alive. You need to rid the flower of the chlorophyll to improve the taste.

(You can substitute brown paper bags instead of the mason jars)

Curing takes anywhere from 10 day's to 30 day's or more depending on several factors and you can't speed up this process at this point. If you stopped feeding them (N) the last 10-day's before flushed this process should not take as long.

If you over dry them you can just add a fresh picked leaf from one of your other plants and that will bring just a small bit of moisture back into them and that's all you want, is a small amount.
I like using fresh parsley, to refreshen my weed, when it is necessary to do so.

Thats about it for trimming and harvesting the real hard part is the waiting for them to cure, you can smoke some after it is dry but it improves with age.

I hope you all find this helpful.
Peace
  • Old Guy, McBong, CoNtRoVeRsIaL and 37 others like this


#80410 Why Most Pot Sucks

Posted by HookerRoad on 09 March 2009 - 06:35 AM

This is an excerpt in it's entirety taken from pages 145-147 of the Cannabible 3 written by Jason King. I enjoyed it so much I decided to type it up and share it. I hope you enjoy it as well.

Why most pot sucks

As my appreciation for fine cannabis grows, I have become more aware of the shortcomings of most of today's herb. Upon careful examination of these shortcomings, I've determined that the same four problems plague a surprisingly high percentage of today's kind bud. And it's not the genetics! Most of the strains that people grow nowadays would produce amazing medicine if grown, flushed, cured, and handled properly. This is especially sad when you consider that the hardest part is already finished by the time most people screw up their crop by not properly addressing these crucial steps. After many years of paying very close attention, I have concluded that when I sample or judge any herb, the importance of these four factors means that I'm actually judging the grower more than the strain itself. Since most growers aren't addressing these four crucial steps properly, their finished product is generally inferior to what's ultimately possible.

Growing Organically

Herb must be organically grown. In order for ganja to express its full, dazzling array of flavors and all the subtle subtones that come along with it, it simply must be grown organically. I know that many hydro growers would disagree with me until the end of time, but it's true. Being the author of the Cannabibles, I have been fortunate enough to sample many different growers' attempts at the same strain, even from clones, and with the exception of the Chem strain, the organic always tastes better. [For the full story of the Chem, see “Cannabible 2, page 46.] This is not to say that properly grown hydro can't taste delicious. Sometimes it can be very delicious indeed. But that same strain grown organically will have a more diverse and satisfying flavor, and certainly a better aftertaste.

I can understand why hydro growers were resistant to switch then or twenty years ago --- organic methods were too heavy, stinky, and messy. Luckily, this isn't the case today. Many brands of organic fertilizers and liquefied nutrients are potent and easy to use, manageable, not too messy or smelly, and affordable as well. Any good grow store should have a selection of such products. But the big reason most chemical hydro growers continue to use chemicals is because they think their bottom line --- yield --- would suffer by going organic. This is simply not the case. If expertly grown, organic methods will yield just as much as chemical ones, if not more. I've conducted experiments that have proven this time and time again. And even if the yield were a little less, considering that the quality is greatly enhanced, it would still be worth it. Better herb is worth more money, if that's what you're looking for.

The bottom line is this: Plants, like humans, do not want to be fed [or treated with] chemicals. A human can live [for a while] on fast food, cigarettes, and beer, but they won't thrive. It's the same with plants. Thought chemically fed hydroponic plants might look healthy on the outside for a while, they aren't thriving on the inside. All the chemicals only serve to weaken the defenses of the plant, just like they do in a human. Nature's way of dealing with these weakened plants? She sends bugs, viruses, molds, and other pathogens to eliminate the weak specimens. [Survival of the fittest, remember?] Again, this is the same way it works with humans. The answer, contrary to what the chemical peddlers will tell you, is not to spray on more chemicals! You need only take a brief glimpse at what chemical agriculture has done to modern farming and farmers to understand this. Millions of acres of rich, fertile farmland have been reduced to barren, toxic, dead wasteland as a result of repeated douses with what our government calls “safe” chemicals and fertilizers. Why repeat this destructive cycle in your grow?

Consider this --- one of the main techniques I use to judge herb is to roll a joint [with a Club rolling paper] and pay particular attention to the second half of the joint. This is where the true test comes in. Any decent herb can taste good on the first few hits of a joint, but it's truly special herb that tastes great right down to the last hit, with the roach burning your fingers. Most of the herb I come across tastes like hot tarry smoke by the second half of a joint, a major drawback in my book. Probably grown [and flushed!] organic herb almost always tastes great right down to the end of a joint. Chemically grown herb almost always tastes like “schwill” by the second half of a joint. Try this experiment yourself; I think you'll see what I mean. The second half of a bowl or bong load clearly reveals the benefits of organics. With chemically fed hydro, you end up with a black cruddy bail of harsh carcinogens, while properly grown organics taste delicious down to the last hit, and the residue blows away as a clean, gray ash.

Flushing

Herb must be flushed properly. This is another big one that most growers don't seem to get. In order for ganja to reach its ultimate potential quality, the plants must be cut off from food and thoroughly flushed with clean water for several weeks or more before harvest. Of course, this step is much more important when harsh chemical fertilizers are used than with orgaic methods. But it's necessary with any setup if you're to achieve ultimate quality. The amount of flush time varies depending on the situation, but I generally recommend stopping all feeding and switching to pure water approximately one month before harvest. This timing can be shortened for indoor plants or lengthened for outdoor plants, depending on container size, the fertilizers used, the strains grown, and a number of other factors. This gives the plant time to finish all its remaining food, at which point the leaves will start changing colors and the plant yelloing, which is part of its natural life cycle.

Yes, you might be able to crank out another few grams or so by feeding your plants up to the end or close to it, but isn't the aim for ultimate quality, not quantity? Cannabis plants that are allowed to yellow on their path to senescence have a much more beautiful and complex flavor when smoked or vaporized than plants that are bright green right up to harvest. Again, I have done experiments that have proven this again and again. Skipping this step is one of the main factors that just about ruins most Canadian and Dutch commercial herb. [I know I will get flak for that one, but I also know that there are many connoisseurs who completely agree with me on this point!]

Curing

Herb must be cured properly. Curign is such an important step in producitn fine herb but sadly is so often ignored or neglected. I believe this is because often the demand for ganja is so great that people will buy herb that hasn't been dried properly, let alone cured! Also, I think many growers are ignorant of not only the importance of this step but how to do it, as well. I am constantly amazed at how often I see herb that is genetically excellent, grown very well, harvested properly, dried properly, then sold or consumed without being cured and therefore only half as tasty as it could have been.

The curing process is quite simple: After the herb has dried to the point that a stem will snap if bent, the medicine is transferred to glass jars [preferably]. [Airtight plastic containers or other clean and sealable containers can be used if the quantity is too large to jar.] Over the next couple of weeks, several times per day if possible, the jars are opened briefly. This allows the gases trapped inside the jar to escape, essentially “sweating” the nugs to golden perfection. This process also allows the last moisture hiding deep inside the buds to find its way out. During the curing process, the ganja's smell will change from a slightly vegetative stink to a near orgasmic and lusciously diverse aroma [depending on the strain of course!]. Not only is the flavor greatly enhanced by curing, the high also improves. The medicine will smoke better as well, burning more evenly. But most importantly, a multitude of delicious flavors that otherwise would have gone unnoticed and unappreciated will reveal themselves. One last point: Herb that has been cured properly doesn't even need to be squeezed, and therefore degraded, to smell its best. Just opening a jar of properly cured cannabis will make your mouth water!

Handling

Herb must be handled delicately. Don't even get me started on this one! Cannabis flowers are incredibly fragile and delicate. I cannot stress this point enough. This is the single biggest reason most pot sucks. By the time it reaches the smoker's lungs, most herb has been manhandled to the point where it is probably half as potent and tasty as it would have been if handled properly. This degradation usually starts when the plants are still alive, as people will squeeze the buds to get a smell, bump into them, drag them along the ground, and otherwise subject them to a variety of insults. During and after harvest they are manhandled even more as they are broken down, transported, hung, trimmed, moved around, dropped and so on. Every time they're touched they degrade. It's that simple.

In order to produce what I call connoisseur-grade herb, incredible care must be taken at every single step of the process to ensure that the flowers are touched, disturbed, or molested as little as possible. This means all the way to the bong, joint, or vaporizer, where most people will roll up a little ball of herb and stick it in the bowl, getting their fingers nice and sticky in the process. That lovely smelling sticky feeling on your fingers --- that's the best part of the hit, which will now be wasted. Take it from me; I spend a lot of time looking at fine cannabis under a microscope at high magnification, so I have become hyperaware of just how delicate the flowers are, noticing how each time they're even just barely touched so many resin glands are knocked off or exploded.

And what is the first thing most people do when packing a bong load? They stick their finger on it and smash it down into the bowl, even if it didn't need it, thereby removing pretty much all the resin from the top. This is my pet peeve! Personally, I use scissors [always the same pair] to cut off the piece I'm going to smoke and use the metal blade to push the herb into the bowl, not letting my fingers or hands get sticky at all. Yes, you lose a little on the scissors, but at least it stays there and builds up for easy collection, which isn't the case if you use your fingers. And rolling a joint? This pretty much decimates the herb if you break it up with your [very sticky] fingers. I highly recommend the use of an herb grinder [available everywhere] for breaking up the herb. Yes, it does knock off resin, but again, it builds up inside the grinder and can be collected. As another side note, let me mention that the grower of some of the best herb in this book never touches, let alone squeezes, his flowers, and before he let me into his garden, I was told not to either! I was happy to oblige.

None of these four crucial steps adds any cost, yet they are so often skipped or neglected. It does not have to be this way. Believe it or not, most of the compressed schwaggy herb grown in Mexico, Jamaica, Africa, and many other commercial herb centers of the world would have been absolutely fantastic if you or I had harvested the plants and cared for them from that point on. Please grow or demand cannabis that is organic, flushed, cured, and handled like the delicate flower it is, and we will watch the quality of marijuana shoot way up to the highest heights on a worldwide basis! And lastly, please love your plants, as this has been proven to have a wonderful effect on plants and their growers! One Love.
  • HeadPawthead, Mogie, green_nobody and 33 others like this


#249764 Gramma watt busted ....daughter's boyfriend ratted us out

Posted by gramma watt on 23 April 2010 - 03:19 PM

This asshole boyfriend knows too much about me. As much as I love my daughter, I should not have trusted her not to let him know what we do. he is an abusive, controlling jerk,. and has threatened us before with ratting us out, we moved to another county 75 miles away. Should have moved to Colorado...
They got into a fight last Thursday morning, she called the law and he went to jail and ran his mouth. She actually went as well..for kicking him in the balls.Before she went to jail, she sent me a text telling me to rip it up, but dammit I was tired of ripping up my crop because of him, this would be the third time. The first two times, he did not really in his mind have a reason like he did now. He said if he was going to jail..someone would pay.
they got out later that day, I spoke to him and he promised he said NOTHING..told me he loved me, that he was going to treat my daighter and my one year old grandson better.
HAH... not so.
They showed up that night for a "knock and talk"
Stupid ol hippies, we admitted to having a small amount of personal inside.
They got a warrant.
I know, I know, we should have stayed inside, they probably would have left, and we may have had time to flush/ hide the stash at least. The room was still in veg, no smell coming from the blueberries and cherry slyders yet, so I dont think they could have gotten the warrant if we had stayed inside.
It was very scary, though. There were like 7 cars ...all state boys, drug dog and all. They were threatening to shoot my pitbulls, who are unsocialized farm dogs, and were about to come through the screen at them.

I just got out today, we got a local lawyer who apparently handles all the drug cases, and he is willing to take payments...sooo...
Going to scout the trailer for leaf to roll, and hit a few other cannabis sites with my story.

I will put up a good fight and do it right. I see this as a way to make some serious lemonade out of some really sour lemons.

I will represent us well, I promise.

http://www.amnews.co.../loc.033257.sto
  • green_nobody, jonnyappleweed420, jangel and 33 others like this


#228830 Black Cherry Soda

Posted by subass on 25 March 2010 - 09:53 PM

A few months back my best mate Dioxide brought over some amazing Purple bud that actually tasted phenomenal. I asked him to get a hold of the cutting and quarantine it and get it healthy and to get me a cutting. The cat is just one of the best collector/seekers around other than me and low and behold bam he brought my cut over today so I can document its up bringing. I present to you BCS Watch her grow up here and only here :)

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#158553 GreenPassion!~One year ago today we Bought the site!

Posted by jangel on 14 November 2009 - 09:32 AM

highfivegif :welcome:

Many of you might not be aware of this but one year ago today Jonnyappleweed, Scott06 and myself, Jangel, bought GreenPassion.org.

:bananas::bananas:

We where left with the message by the former owner that he had "No confidence in the new management and could not see us lasting long"

:do it::hawkeye::do it::hawkeye::do it:

Well, folks, seems like we HAVE made it. We have survived and done very very well!

laserGP.gif :welcome: laserGP.gif :peace1: laserGP.gif


We initially had a very bad image to take over, GreenPassion was not well respected, but we have indeed turned it around, and now, we have many coming here joining after hearing of us, and the many positive things about the site.

GPwelcome.gif

It has indeed been a journey. We have joined with many sites, in a unique philosophy, as we believe it is only by cooperating with other sites and movements that we can ever hope to change laws and open minds about Cannabis. It seems almost every week we have a new site coming to us now, asking to be added to our list on the home page.

:Legalize it!: :do it: :Legalize it!: :do it: :Legalize it!:

We have been amazed at the number of active members we have here, taking part in this site, and sharing their lives with us all.

Hug Smiley

We have also worked with Granny Storm Crow to help spread her list far and wide, again, to share and educate everyone, everywhere, about the benefits of Cannabis and how it can change lives and help people all over the world.

We have also an open dialogue here to search out the truth about Rick Simpson's healing hemp oil and find out, without a doubt, how it can heal. Now we have 2 forums, dealing with this subject. And it is an awesome wonderful things.

actionleaf.gif :peace1: actionleaf.gif

So much has happened in the past year! It has been an incredible experience! Our job has been to make sure we deal with compassion, with anyone that comes here for help or knowledge. This we freely give to all. As it should be.

We have laughed together, cried together, and shared so very very much! You all mean the world to me!

Members, let us know what you have seen in the last year, how you feel we have grown, what GP means to you, and what place you feel we can reach for in the future.

This site is as much about our members as it is about the owners. Without you fine people, we would not be here. I like to think we are indeed unique and a kinder, gentler place for many to visit.

My hats off to all of you, all over the world. YOU are what GreenPassion is about!

Let me know how you all feel.

Congratulations, GreenPassion.org! shakehands.gif

The NEW GP is not so new any more!

Happy Birthday Everyone!

:321: :happybday: :321:


Peace and blessings to all!

We are indeed a rising star and we are going to Shine!

glowstar.gif

Peace
  • ISO2BWELL, GSR, freetolive and 32 others like this


#153194 Green Passion Rules

Posted by Michael on 31 October 2009 - 09:41 AM

The rules have been edited.


#57592 Top 10 Marijuana Growing Tips

Posted by scott06 on 16 September 2008 - 06:46 PM

from the weeds that please website http://www.weedsthat...om/growtips.htm
Keep this good advice in mind for consistent success

Tips to Growing Great Marijuana Indoors
Grow Good Cannabis Pot Indoors

Posted Image

Marijuana Growing Tips

Growing healthy marijuana plants can be easy, and it can also be difficult.
There are a number of important factors to consider and monitor when growing your indoor marijuana.
On this page, we have tried to provide what we feel are the most important ingredients to a successful harvest.
The following Top 10 Tips to Growing Marijuana Indoors will be very helpful to the beginner gardener. If you watch these items and remain within certain guidelines, your plants should thrive in your artificial environment, eventually giving back all the love -
For the benefit of this content, we are assuming that you have already germinated (sprouted) your marijuana seeds. A good step-by-step guide to cannabis seed germination can be found here. If you have already completed this step, let's get started with some tips to help you keep your plants healthy and strong, from seedlings through the vegetative and flowering stage and right into harvest.

Posted ImageDO NOT Tell People. (Silent Pride)
You can and will be extremely proud of your accomplishments as you successfully harvest your homegrown marijuana. KEEP YOUR SECRET. Ever heard of jealousy? Divorce? Revenge? - People listen and always want to feel important, don't make it their gossip. Protect your investment - Shut-up.
Posted ImageKeep Everything Clean (Spotless)This means you too! Your tools, your floors, your walls, everything. It pays when there are no bugs, or disease, or an environment for them to spread. This is truly under-rated - wash your hands upon entry everyday.
Posted Image
Grow from Quality Seeds
Your final product is 90% dependent upon it's genetics. Be prepared to be disappointed using unknown seeds.
Posted Image
Develop A Quality Soil
When you begin your garden, develop a soil that works well for you. Start with just Potting Soil if you wish. PH should balance around 6.5 for most cannabis plants.

Posted Image
DO NOT Over Water (most common mistake)Too much water can kill young marijuana plants. Following germination, allow the surface to get crusty. Stick your finger 3-4 inches under the soil, if no moisture, then water thoroughly. Sink water should sit open for 24 hours or more to release chlorine among other potentially harmful sediments.
Posted ImageDO NOT Over Fertilize (2nd most common mistake)If your soil contains certain nutrients, do not add more of these with your watering schedule. When adding nutrients to your water, - apply every other watering. The vegetative stage likes more Nitrogen, and the flowering stage like more Phosphates and less Nitrogen.
Posted Image
Provide A Superior Growing Environment
Temperature, humidity, air circulation and personal attention are all vital areas that can make for a most stress free growing environment (or not). Work to keep these consistent. Play music to your garden and have a mild breeze pass around the room during certain hours. Invest in their individual happiness, and you will prosper greatly in your future satisfaction.
Posted Image
Keep Disposal Separate
Keep all of the trash from your garden in separate bags from your other refuse (includes anything). Dispose of all your garden garbage into an available commercial dumpster when needed. Be sure to remove and destroy any paper trail items. A fireplace can be a wonderful amenity to a residential property.
Posted Image
DO NOT Harvest Too Early
This can be tough. Be patient, you have waited and nurtured for this long. Your plants can probably gain weight by waiting too. I have also harvested from the bottom or top over a couple of days based on tric appearance to get them at their most mature.

We hope you have enjoyed our Top 10
Tips for Growing Marijuana Indoors.

Our intent is to assist fellow growers in the successful growth and harvest of high quality marijuana with less cash, risk, and chance of failure.
  • pine boy, McBong, CoNtRoVeRsIaL and 30 others like this


#233080 I suppose it's time

Posted by robotdinosaur on 01 April 2010 - 12:41 AM

As GeeGee2 kindly pointed out, I have yet to post a journal :bananas: So I thought it was high time I get some pics up. I have a side project going on, that I will be keeping to myself for the time being, but I will post two babies from the project (TGA Subcool's JillyBean) as they progress.

I'm currently 11 days into flower on 4 varieties and just flipped two more, today. The four oldest are: (1) Reserva Privada's Purple Wreck & also their Confidential Cheese, (1) Paradise Seeds White Berry & (1) Liberty Seeds Lady Liberty Today's add was (1) VISC Dubble Bubble and a super BUSHY mother plant - Blue Dream

Pictures From Left to Right: Confidential Cheese, White Berry, Purple Wreck, Lady Liberty, Dubble Bubble & Blue Dream. I'll post more as they progress in flower :)

Medium & Nutrients: CC, WB & PW are in Roots Organic Soilless Mix, LL, DB & BD are all in Roots Organic Soil. Nutrients: Humboldt Nutrients Master A & B for Soilless and Humboldt Nutrients Organic Program for the soil :)
Lighting: Two 1000w Hortilux Super HPS Enhanced Spectrum Bulbs on a Light Rail 3.5 (with add-a-light package)
Intake/Exhaust: Intake: 265 CFM blower / Exhaust: 465 CFM blower with a 30" x 16" Active Air Carbon Filter. There's a 12,000 BTU portable AC in the room, in the event that it gets too warm (& also doubles as a de-humidifier) & 2 oscillating fans for air circulation in the room.

Guess that's about it :)

Attached Images

  • LACheese.jpg
  • WhtBerry.jpg
  • PurpWreck.jpg
  • LadyLiberty.jpg
  • DubbleBubble.jpg
  • BlueDream.jpg

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#193277 GeeGee's grow

Posted by GeeGee on 28 January 2010 - 04:08 PM

Hello all! I've finally decided to make a small journal of the girls. Hope you'll all enjoy it and feel free to bark! The girls 2 chocolope seeds, 1 LA Woman All germed on january 17th. Went to peat pucks for about 3 days then to 16 oz Cups (transparent type, couldn't get no red racer cups Hug Smiley). Normal/seedling soil + perlite on the cups.. So the gear. 1x250W CFL in a dome. Both 2700K & 6500K bulbs. 4x30W CFL, as sidelights. Only got blue (6500) bulbs. 1 humidifier No nutes by now... Some will come Peace
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#173934 Green Passion Rules

Posted by Michael on 21 December 2009 - 11:59 AM

Updated the rules to reflect our new "NO POLITICS" policy. Politics er bad, mmmkay?


#153230 Green Passion Rules

Posted by jangel on 31 October 2009 - 11:21 AM

Thank You Michael! You have stated it perfectly, as usual. Peace
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#55807 The Complete FREE growers bible by greg green!

Posted by Guest on 03 September 2008 - 11:29 AM

I came across this book at an online site where you can go read many various books and since then have seen it on other sites,i loved it and posted it in the beginners lounge at my other MJ forum home and its a sticky now cos its just got every bit of info a beginner in cultivation can need,it covers every aspect of the grow,before,during and after.I sincererly hope this thread and post is a help to those who click the link and read the book online.Its a safe site,not MJ related so dont worry about clicking on the link for any para stoners out there.READ,LEARN,GROW,HARVEST:BagofWeed: AND ENJOY!Peace

http://www.scribd.co...ble-4th-Edition
Theres pictures aswell,this wasnt my original link,it did used to be on SCRIBD but got took down due to copyright infringement or some thing like that.... enjoy!Its Posted Image Peace:study:


#224237 Balm from canna roots

Posted by mediuse on 17 March 2010 - 08:13 PM

Note to readers: This was my first root balm explorations thread here on Green Passion...I had posted the info on another site when I was a member there but with little response, the primary interest there was cannabis buds.
When I came here I refined the info and started this thread...since then others have taken this info and run with it, coming up with some wonderful refinements and discoveries.
So, please keep th@ in mind as you read this thread. Much of the information has been refined since this thread began...seek also the other root balm threads on Green Passion for more information and inspiration! :D muhahahaa.


WARNING:I do not recommend consuming canna-root oil!...For external use only!

I do not know the effect th@
alkaloids might have if consumed.
It COULD be dangerous.


UPDATE: One of our GPeeps, Desiderata, has done some research and the amount of alkaloids is negligble compared to the amount needed to cause harm....One would have to eat several pounds of roots to get a dose th@ large.

muA


I've been trying to get the most out of my cannabis plant...I cure and smoke the buds...I make canna-oil from the leaves, stems and popcorn buds {and buds when I can spare them!}...I'm experimenting with rhetting the thicker branches and stems to make my own paper...and th@ left me with the roots.

Last harvest I made some canna balm with leaf stem and popcorn buds...whilst it did help with minor abrasions and burns, it seemed pretty useless when it came to muscles, sinew, bone and ligament.

This harvest I decided to make my balm with the dried rootmass of 1 skunkmix plant and the freshly harvested rootmass of a haze plant.

I tore these up into smallish pieces...Ideally I would have ground them in a blender...but I don't have one! :)...I put the torn up rootmass and 2 cups of oil into a slow cooker with 6 cups of water.
The reason I put 3-1 water-oil is this way I can keep it @ a roiling boil without deepfrying the roots.

I leave the cooker on 12-14 hours, checking it to top up the water as it evaporates {I put the lid on but it still does evaporate} and @ the end I pull the root pulp out and strain the lot through a clean giant sized chux cloth {pre-washed} and put it in the freezer to...freeze B)

The root pulp can be put back into the cooker with some more water to boil a few more hours...do not put more oil in...the purpose of this second 'cook' is to release the remaining oil and alkaloids from the roots.
When done, strain and freeze like the first batch...

Depending on if you squeezed out the root pulp the first batch, you might get up to the same amount of oil from the second batch you 'cook'.

When the water has frozen, pour off the oil from both batches into a pot and heat gently on the stove...dissolve some bee's wax into the oil...a piece half the size of your thumb would be enough to make 2 or more cups of balm...add small pieces and dissolve it into the oil....test it every now and then to see how thick it is.
With a little practice you can get the consistency you want to make it spreadable @room temp.

Scent can be added now if you want it aromatic...or there are other ingredients you can add and experiment with.
My next batch of this balm with also have cinnamon bark, oregano, basil 'cooked' with the roots in oil to, hopefully, make a better balm!
One could also throw in a Brugmansia flower or two to help with spasticity.

Rubbing this balm into my joints is like no pain medicine I've had before.
It doesn't make the pain bearable, nor does it lessen it, it seems to stop it entirely...not numbing it....making it like it was never there!
This is a new experience in pain relief for me.
The spasticity and stiffness I normally experience is lessened to the point of indifference...and I've only been using this a week!

The reason this works so well is the alkaloids in the roots.

If you want to explore this further google cannabis+root+alkaloid+balm and you will have some reading ahead! :) hehehe

If you grow...you have roots...if you have these roots, make the balm....even if YOU don't need it...someone will...a parent/grandparent/loved one...

I am pretty sure powdered roots would get through in the mail....perhaps someone could start a 'rootbank' and send their unwanted roots to those who could use them.

My next area of research is going to be into which strains have the best roots for this balm:)

Hope this helps...anyone who tries this, please chime in!

muA
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#18789 Plant Abuse Chart And Photos By Nietzsche

Posted by Mogie on 14 November 2007 - 03:00 AM

For the complete chart click on:




Plant Abuse Chart and Photos by Nietzsche



PLANT ABUSE

Heat Stress :
Look closely below, and you'll see the brown leaf edges that are indicative of heat stress. This damage looks alot like nutrient burn, except it occurs only at the tops of the plants closest to the lamps. There's only one cure for this...get the heat away from the plants, either by moving the lamps or moving the plants.

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Figure 1

Nutrient Solution Burn:
There's a good chance that this leaf was subjected to nutrient solution burn. These symptoms are seen when the EC concentration of hydroponic solutions is too high. These symptoms also appear when strong nutrient solution is splashed onto the leaves under hot HID lamps, causing the leaves to burn under the solution.

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Figure 2
Many hydroponic gardeners see this problem. It's the beginning of nutrient burn. It indicates that the plants have all the nutrients they can possibly use, and there's a slight excess. Back off the concentration of the nutrient solution just a touch, and the problem should disappear. Note that if the plants never get any worse than this leaf (figure 3), then the plants are probably just fine. Figure 4 is definitely an over-fert problem. The high level of nutrients accumulates in the leaves and causes them to dry out and burn up as shown here. You must flush with clear, clean water immediately to allow the roots to recover, and prevent further damage. Now find the cause of the high nutrient levels.

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Figure 3 (left) and Figure 4 (right)
Over Watering:
The plants in figure 5 were on a continous drip system, where nutrient solution is constantly being pumped into the medium. This tends to keep the entire root system completely saturated. A better way would be to periodically feed the plants, say for 1/2 hour every 2-3 hours. This would give the roots a chance to get needed air to them, and prevent root rot and other problems.
Don't be throw off by the fact that the plants in figure 5 are sitting in still water, this is actually an H2O2 solution used to try and correct the problem. Adding an airstone to the tub would also help add O2 to the solution.

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Figure 5
pH Fluctuation:
Both of these leaves in figure 6 and figure 7 are from the same plant. It could be over fertilization, but more likely it is due to the pH being off. Too high or too low a pH can lock up nutrients in the form of undisolvable salts and compounds, some of which are actually toxic to the plants. What then happens is the grower then tries to supplement the plants diet by adding more fertilizers, throwing off the pH even more and locking up even more nutrients. This type of problem is seen more often in soil mixes, where inconsistent mixing of the medium's components leads to "hot" spots.

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Figure 6 (left) and Figure 7 (right)
Ozone Damage:
Ozone damage typically found near the generator. Although a rare problem, symptoms generally appear as a Mg deficiency, but the symptoms are localized to immediately around the generator.

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Figure 8
NUTRIENT PROBLEMS
Root Stunting:
Root stunting is characteristic of calcium deficiency, acidity, aluminum toxicity, and copper toxicity. Some species may also show it when boron deficient. The shortened roots become thickened, the laterals become stubby, peg-like, and the whole system often discolours, brown or grey.
Symptoms localized at shoot growing points.
New shoots unopened; young leaves distorted; dead leaf tips; pale green plant copper deficiency
New shoots withered or dead; petiole or stem collapse; shoots stunted; green plant calcium deficiency Young leaves pale green or yellow; rosetting or dead tip; dieback; dark green plant boron deficiency

MOBILE ELEMENTS
Mobile elements are more likely to exhibit visual deficiencies in the older leaves, because during demand these elements will be exported to the new growth.

Nitrogen (N)
Nitrate - Ammonium is found in both inorganic and organic forms in the plant, and combines with carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and sometimes sulfur to form amino acids, amino enzymes, nucleic acids, chlorophyll, alkaloids, and purine bases. Nitrogen rates high as molecular weight proteins in plant tissue.
Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients.
Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Nitrogen Deficiencies:
Plants will exhibit lack of vigor, slow growth and will be weak and stunted. Quality and yield will be significantly reduced. Older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Deficient plants will exhibit uniform light green to yellow on older leaves, these leaves may die and drop. Leaf margins will not curled up noticeably. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple.

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Figure 9

As seen in figure 10 consumption of nitrogen (N) from the fan leaves during the final phase of flowing is 100% normal.

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Figure 10

Nitrogen Toxicity:
Leaves are often dark green and in the early stages abundant with foliage. If excess is severe, leaves will dry and begin to fall off. Root system will remain under developed or deteriorate after time. Fruit and flower set will be inhibited or deformed.
With breakdown of vascular tissue restricting water uptake. Stress resistance is drastically diminished.

Phosphorus (P)
Phosphorus is a component of certain enzymes and proteins, adenosine triphosphate (ATP), ribonucleic acids (RNA), deoxyribonucleic acids (DNA) and phytin. ATP is involved in various energy transfer reactions, and RNA and DNA are components of genetic information.

Phosphorus (P) deficiency:
Figure 11 is severe phosphorus (P) deficiency during flowering. Fan leaves are dark green or red/purple, and may turn yellow. Leaves may curl under, go brown and die. Small-formed buds are another main symptom.
Phosphorus deficiencies exhibit slow growing, weak and stunted plants with dark green or purple pigmentation in older leaves and stems.
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Purpling: accumulation of anthocyanin pigments; causes an overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint, and is the common sign of phosphate deficiency. Some plant species and varieties respond to phosphate deficiency by yellowing instead of purpling. Purpling is natural to some healthy ornamentals.

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Figure 11

Figure 12 shows Phosphorus (P) deficiency during vegatative growth. Many people mistaken this for a fungus, but look for the damage to occur near the end of leave, and leaves the color dull greyish with a very brittle texture.


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Figure 12


Phosphorus (P) Toxicity:
This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability and stability of copper and zinc.

Potassium (K)
Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the
tugor pressure of it's cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality.
Potassium deficiency:
Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions
(dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken, the plant may also stretch. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. In addition to appearing to look like iron deficiency, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

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Figure 13

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Figure 14

Potassium (K) Toxicity:
Usually not absorbed excessively by plants. Excess potassium can aggravate the uptake of magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and effect the availability of calcium.

Magnesium (Mg)
Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency:
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at � teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
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Figure 15

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Figure 16
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Figure 17

Magnesium (Mg) Toxicity:
Magnesium toxicity is rare and not generally exhibited visibly. Extreme high levels will antagonize other ions in the nutrient solution.

Zinc (Zn)
Zinc plays a roll in the same enzyme functions as manganese and magnesium. More than eighty enzymes contain tightly bound zinc essential for their function. Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation and helps prevent chlorophyll destruction. Carbonic anhydrate has been found to be specifically activated by zinc.

Zinc Deficiencies:
Deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the inter-veinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance as seen in figure 18. This may be accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.
Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients, lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc. Zinc deficiency produces "little leaf" in many species, especially woody ones; the younger leaves are distinctly smaller than normal. Zinc defeciency may also produce "rosetting"; the stem fails to elongate behind the growing tip, so that the terminal leaves become tightly bunched.

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Figure 18

Zinc Toxicity:
Excess Zinc is extremely toxic and will cause rapid death. Excess zinc interferes with iron causing chlorosis from iron deficiency. Excess will cause sensitive plants to become chlorotic.

IMMOBILE ELEMENTS
Immobile elements will show their first symptoms on younger leaves and progress to the whole plant.

Sulphur (S)
Sulfate is involved in protein synthesis and is part of the amino acids, cystine and thiamine, which are the building blocks of proteins. It is active in the structure and metabolism in the plant. It is essential for respiration and the synthesis and breakdown of fatty acids.

Sulphur (S) deficiency:
The initial symptoms are the yellowing of the entire leaf including veins usually starting with the younger leaves. Leaf tips may yellow and curl downward. Sulfur deficiencies are light green fruit or younger leaves with a lack of succulence. Elongated roots and woody stem. Although it's hard to see in figure 19, the upper stems of this plant are purple. Although many varieties of cannabis do get purplish stems, the trait generally extends the entire length of the plant's stem, and not just near the top as in this specimen.

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Figure 19

Sulphur Toxicity:
Leaf size will be reduced and overall growth will be stunted. Leaves yellowing or scorched at edges. Excess may cause early senescence.

Calcium (Ca)
Calcium plays an important role in maintaining cell integrity and membrane permeability.

Calcium Deficiency:
Young leaves are affected first and become small and distorted or chlorotic with irregular margins, spotting or necrotic areas. Bud development is inhibited, blossom end rot and internal decay may also occur and root may be under developed or die back. Deficiency will cause leaf tip die-back, leaf tip curl and marginal necrosis and chlorosis primarily in younger leaves. Symptoms: young leaves develop chlorosis and distortion such as crinkling, dwarfing, developing a strap-like shape, shoots stop growing and thicken.

Calcium Toxicity:
Difficult to distinguish visually. May precipitate with sulfur in solution and cause clouding or residue in tank. Excess calcium may produce deficiencies in magnesium and potassium.

Iron (Fe)
Iron is an important component of plant enzyme systems for electron transport to carry electrons during photosynthesis and terminal respiration. It is a catalyst for chlorophyll production and is required for nitrate and sulfate reduction and assimilation.
Iron deficiency:
- Pronounced interveinal chlorosis similar to that caused by magnesium deficiency but on the younger leaves.
-Leaves exhibit chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves mainly between the veins, starting with the lower and middle leaves.

Caused by factors that interfere with iron absorption of roots: over irrigation, excessive soluble salts, inadequate drainage, pests, high substrate pH, or nematodes. This is easily corrected by adding an iron supplement with the next watering.

Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.

Note : When adding iron to the solution, it is often necessary to not use fertilizer for that watering. Iron has a tendency of reacting with many of the components of fertilizer solutions, and will cause nutrient lockup to occur. Read the labels of both the iron supplement and the fertilizer you are using before you attempt to combine the two.

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Figure 20

Iron Toxicity:
Excess accumulation is rare but could cause bronzing or tiny brown spots on leaf surface.



Manganese (Mn)
Manganese is involved in the oxidation reduction process in the photosynthetic electron transport system. Biochemical research shows that this element plays a structural role in the chloroplast membrane system, and also activates numerous enzymes.
Manganese Deficiency:
Interveinal chlorosis of younger leaves, necrotic lesions and leaf shredding are typical symptom of this deficiency. High levels can cause uneven distribution of chlorophyll resulting in blotchy appearance. Restricted growth and failure to mature normally can also result.
-Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.
Manganese Toxicity:
Toxicity:Chlorosis, or blotchy leaf tissue due to insufficient chlorophyll synthesis. Growth rate will slow and vigor will decline.

Chlorine (Cl)
Chloride is involved in the evolution of oxygen in the photosynthesis process and is essential for cell division in roots and leaves. Chlorine raises the cell osmotic pressure and affects stomata regulation and increases the hydration of plant tissue. Levels less than 140 ppm are safe for most plants. Chloride sensitive plants may experience tip or marginal leaf burn at concentrations above 20 ppm.
Chlorine Deficiency:
Wilted chlorotic leaves become bronze in color. Roots become stunted and thickened near tips. Plants with chlorine deficiencies will be pale and suffer wilting.
Chlorine Toxicity:
Burning of leaf tip or margins. Bronzing, yellowing and leaf splitting. Reduced leaf size and lower growth rate.

Boron (:toking:
Boron biochemical functions are yet uncertain, but evidence suggests it is involved in the synthesis of one of the bases for nucleic acid (RNA uracil) formation. It may also be involved in some cellular activities such as division, differentiation, maturation and respiration. It is associated with pollen germination.
Boron Deficiency:
Plants deficient in boron exhibit brittle abnormal growth at shoot tips and one of the earliest symptoms is failure of root tips to elongate normally. Stem and root apical meristems often die. Root tips often become swollen and discolored. Internal tissues may rot and become host to fungal disease. Leaves show various symptoms which include drying, thickening, distorting, wilting, and chlorotic or necrotic spotting.
Boron Toxicity:
Yellowing of leaf tip followed by necrosis of the leaves beginning at tips or margins and progressing inward before leaves die and prematurely fall off. Some plants are especially sensitive to boron accumulation.

Copper (Cu)
Copper is a constituent of many enzymes and proteins. Assists in carbohydrate metabolism, nitrogen fixation and in the process of oxygen reduction.
Copper Deficiency:
Symptoms of deficiency are a reduced or stunted growth with a distortion of the younger leaves and growth tip die-back. Young leaves often become dark green and twisted. They may die back or just exhibit necrotic spots. Growth and yield will be deficient as well.
Copper Toxicity:
Copper is required in very small amounts and readily becomes toxic in solution culture if not carefully controlled. Excess values will induce iron deficiency. Root growth will be suppressed followed by symptoms of iron chlorosis, stunting, reduced branching, abnormal darkening and thickening of roots.

Molybdenum (Mo)
Molybdenum is a component of two major enzyme systems involved in the nitrate reeducates, this is the process of conversion of nitrate to ammonium.
Molybdenum Deficiencies:
Often interveinal chlorosis which occurs first on older leaves, then progressing to the entire plant. Developing severely twisted younger leaves which eventually die. Molybdenum deficiencies frequently resemble nitrogen, with older leaves chlorotic with rolled margins and stunted growth.
Molybdenum Toxicity:
Excess may cause discoloration of leaves depending on plant species. This condition is rare but could occur from accumulation by continuous application. Used by the plant in very small quantities. Excess mostly usually does not effect the plant, however the consumption of high levels by grazing animals can pose problems so she might not be too good to smoke.

Sodium (Na)
Sodium seems to encourage crop yields and in specific cases it acts as an antidoting agent against various toxic salts. It may act as a partial substitute for potassium deficiencies. Excess may cause plant toxicity or induce deficiencies of other elements. If sodium predominates in the solution calcium and magnesium may be affected.

Silicon (Si)
Silicon usually exists in solution as silicic acid and is absorbed in this form. It accumulates as hydrated amorphous silica most abundantly in walls of epidermal cells, but also in primary and secondary walls of other cells. It is largely available in soils and is found in water as well. Inadequate amounts of silicon can reduce tomato yields as much as 50%, cause new leaves to be deformed and inhibit fruit set. At this time toxicity symptoms are undetermined.


Cobalt (Co)
Cobalt is essential to many beneficial bacteria that are involved in nitrogen fixation of legumes. It is a component of vitamin B12 which is essential to most animals and possibly in plants. Reports suggest that it may be involved with enzymes needed to form aromatic compounds. Otherwise, it is not understood fully as to its benefit to plant growth, but it is considered essential to some animal health issues.

e.pics.spt/09
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#73016 First Grow Wisdom

Posted by Michoacan on 07 February 2009 - 07:24 PM

After 2 months of endless reading, blogging, asking, tweaking, changing, learning, and building, I have 5 healthy 12 day old White Widows in a closet grow. So rather than approaching this from a successful results standpoint, I felt if may be useful to share some generalities that would have saved me some time and extra work, had I known when I started . I'll break this down into advice, and sharing my results as I go along, in hopes that first, I'm successful(!!), and second, that it makes your life a little easier! So, here's what I've learned philosophically: 1.) Some people have a knack for this, and will be better than you. In school, there was always the class president, who made it look easier than it was for the rest of us. 2.) It will take a minimum of 10 hours reading of online postings to begin PLANNING your first grow. Read, ask, read some more, and ask again. Eventually, it will all start to make sense as common knowledge threads will keep recurring, and those are the ones you'll want to follow. The cool part, is you're going to come up with your own solutions out of necessity relative to your individual circumstance. 3.) Don't try your own experiment first, stay within the lines of successful growers. You will find many opinions, and the best ones will keep recurring as you read, hence the 10 hour minimum homework. 4.) Be patient, pot doesn't grow overnight, and checking it 27 times a day isn't going to hurry it, only slow it down. My last grow was this spindly Mexican stuff, 20 years ago, without lights, and zero knowledge of anything but K mart potting soil. But even those plants got 4 feet tall! The point being, I/you can do this! :dunce:
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#197550 A Nice Conversion Chart

Posted by Tim Foolery on 04 February 2010 - 04:54 AM

Hey guys, I was looking for a conversion chart that satisfied my needs and didn't find one that worked. So...I jut made one. With this I've eliminated a lot of the algebra involved in converting. Some numbers are rounded very slightly. I hope this helps everyone.


Conversion Chart


ML

1ml = 1cc
5ml = 1tsp
15ml = 1tbs
30ml = 1oz
237ml = 1cup
1,000ml = 1L

Tsp

3tsp = 1tbsp
6tsp = 1oz
48 tsp = 1 Cup

Tbs

2tbs = 1oz
16tbs = 1 Cup

Cups, Quarts, and Gallons

2cup = 1pt
2pt = 1q
4q = 1gal

Liter Conversions

4.2cups = 1L
1.1q = 1L
1gal = 3.8L


Fahrenheit to Celsius Equation


C = (F -32) x 5/9

F = (9/5 x C) + 32

* Where F= Degrees in Fahrenheit
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